• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.550-558
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• 2010

Russian Constructivism, which took the lead in the Russian trend of art until the late 1920's, was influenced by European Cubism and Futurism. Breaking away from the previous realistic tendency, Russian Constructivism, to meet the ideology of the revolution, insisted the "Art into Street" and the "Art in Industry" with its abstract and geometric design. Russian Constructivism effected paintings of mid 1920's, as well as Industrial design and costume design. This operated remarkable changes in Russian form of costume and textile area. An unusual situation like revolution had provided the social justification to develop a new costume design not for the special class of people, but for the general public. In this atmosphere, the plan of clothing mass production began to progress. Although the Russian Constructivism costume of arts shows the similarity in the trend of fashion and the physical forms of those days, its fundamental idea in manufacturing costumes was 'to create costumes to be possible to mass-produce and to be wearable to anyone regardless of the social class'. Therefore, Constructivism costume of arts pursued dynamism and geometric form through non-objective design that has broken away from the handcrafted and traditional standards of the past. These distinct characteristics served as a momentum to seek costume design based on productivity and functionality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.488-498
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• 2010

This study was intended to develop a multi-purpose, multi-functional design for safety vest to enhance the safety and user's availability. With a limited scope to LED-applied safety vest, this study contemplates on the problems of safety vest on the market and directions for design development with a view to develop its prototype. This is a significant study because it has been conducted concerning a prototype, a cut above the study method of constructing a basic theory. For study method, theoretic considerations on LED and safety vest are followed by case study for LED-applied safety vest currently on the market to draw out problems. Then, solutions for problems with LED safety vest will be found, while planning for a design direction in consideration of safety, functionality and beauty. Scope of study was limited to cases of LED safety vests currently on sale online and offline, excluding cases of common-form luminosity such as HB luminous vest without LED. Accordingly, results of study will help develop the prototype for LED safety vest with an increase of the wearer's safety, and be used as a basic data for developing high-value-added fashion prodcts to meet his aesthetic sense and functionality. This study has limitations. Restricted scope for LED-applied safety vest should be extended to an outdoor wear in follow-up research for the foundation of higher value added.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.153-162
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• 2009

This paper introduces the probable regional and long distance trade of cotton goods among the pre-Hispanic Mesoamericans during the Classic (A.D. 200-900) period through the comparison of the available documentary sources. Based on the ethnohistoric data and the archaeological evidences it was found that cotton was used throughout the Mesoamerica by the elite ruling class. However, because cotton could not be grown at elevations above 6,000 feet it was obvious that nations such as Teotihuacan which flourished in the highland of present day Mexico City had to import cotton from the tropical coastal hotlands either through trade or tribute. Several ethnohistorical and archaeological data suggest that urban center in highland Mexico had people employed in weaving the textiles rather than cultivating or spinning cotton. Archaeological evidences such as the workshops used by the craft specialists seemed to be associated with weaving of cotton. Because of the similarity in climatic conditions for marine shells and cotton cultivation, Kolb's model seems to be applicable to the cotton trade of the classic Teotihuacan. Based on Kolb's model, it could be hypothesized that Teotihuacan-Kaminaljyyu-Maya was the indirect trade route connecting the Basin of Mexico and the Mayan regions.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.121-128
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• 2009

The goal of this study is to investigate the current conditions of apparels for the handicapped, identify the problems and recommend what are appropriate and functional apparels for the handicapped. The research method was to statistically process a survey on 200 handicapped by frequency analysis and cross tabulations. The study results are as follows. First, the degree of discomfort in daily activities was shown during toilet use and eating. Among clothes categories owned by the handicapped, most discomfort was felt in the order of everyday clothes, workout clothes, underwear, athletic shoes and working clothes. Second, children's clothing was most commonly preferred clothing style by handicap for the dwarfism. Comfortable clothes was preferred and relaxed, decent, and unique styles were preferred in the order. Soft feeling texture and absorbency was considered important as preferred clothing material. Third, sizes and designs were improvements wanted by the handicapped in apparel in the order. In addition, they wanted to wear apparel sensitive to the fashion just like the non-handicapped without showing the handicapped parts. There is a necessity for the government or municipalitiesto establish and run protected workplaces or independent workplaces for those who have studied apparel. The field is thought to require continuous and numerous follow-up studies such as researches on different physiques, standardization of apparel, segmentation of sizes and methods of producing custom apparel by function and handicap.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.6 s.220
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• pp.163-174
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• 2006

The purpose of this research was to examine the level and trends in household clothing expenditure in Korea. Raw data sets produced by the National Statistical Office from the Family Income and Expenditure Survey from 1991 to 2004 were used to support time-series and cross-sectional analyses. The clothing expenditures decreased severely and quickly during the economic crisis of late 1997 through 1998, then increased slowly after the economic crisis until 2003, only to slightly decrease again in 2004. The ratio of clothing expenditure to total household expenditure decreased from 8.03% in 1991 to 5.11% in 2004. This decrease in relative clothing expenditure was greater in the lower income group than in the middle and high income groups. Clothing expenditure patterns were unique and differed from other household expenditures. Although the economic crisis in the late 1990s affected Korean consumers' clothing expenditure, clothing expenditure patterns showed a more fundamental and structural change from 1991 to 2004, with the overall decrease in such expenditure resulting from the concurrent increase in educational and information-communication related expenditures. Clothing expenditure was shown to be luxurious through cross-sectional analysis, but necessary through time-series analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.146-158
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to identify hair salon's implementation strategies and current service condition for mass customization. The questionnaire was composed of 82 questions. 115 hair salon's directors were subjects of this study. The results were as follows: Hair salon's mass customization strategies were categorized into 6 factors such as staff's technique, communication service, electronic products, monetary support, man-to-man service, and dissatisfaction removal service. Hair salons were categorized into 2 groups of a high implementation group and a low implementation group. A high implementation group had a higher monthly sales and more regular customers and staff. The hair salons were franchises and were more spacious in the high group. They were located at fashion street, department store, or outlet mall, and offered fashionable hair styles. However, a low implementation group had a lower monthly sales and less regular customers and staffs. The size of hair salon was small in the low group. They were located in residential areas and offered basic hair styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.94-105
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• 2009

Jeogori, Korean jacket, can be categorized into two styles. Traditional style Jeogori is based on conventional construction method for ceremonial or festive occasions. Contemporary casual style Jeogori is based on western style flat pattern making for better fitting and functionality. Traditional style Jeogori is quite flat on human body because it is not considered the grade of shoulder line and is drawn by vertical & horizontal line. This characteristic feature causes weakness in functionality and comfort compared to contemporary casual style. Apparently contemporary casual style has better wearing comfort. Yet to most Koreans, contemporary style Jeogori seems to lack of some characteristic style of its own. This study is to find out how to make Jeogori well balanced in terms of functionality, fit, comfort and traditional style. Currently used Jeogori patterns are compared in order to select the best among them. Onto the selected pattern, several alterations were tried focused on shoulder, armhole and sleeve lines to make optimal modifications. After several comparative fitting tests, the final pattern making method was suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.111-121
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• 2011

This paper intends to improve caddies' vocational efficiency, to increase the quality of caddies' services for customers, and further, to widen the application of smart clothes by proposing prototypes of smart uniforms in which caddies' vocational characteristics are reflected. The smart uniforms proposed by this study were restricted to those for spring and fall seasons and three types for a jacket, a turtle neck shirt, pants, and a jumper were proposed. Each design was developed to contain functionality and aesthetic, and also to be transformed subject to weather or other conditions. In addition, the uniforms were designed to carry not only a two-way radio and a remote controller for a cart that caddies necessarily carry, but also i-Pod, a distance meter, and other digital tools by use of solar cells. That is, this paper proposed the designs that can meet with caddies' vocational characteristics and different conditions. This paper is regarded meaningful in that smart clothes, which are forecasted as a future high value-added business, are applied to the uniforms of various job types so they can expand me existing functions of uniforms and further, think about the ways of being used for higher value-added products through the fusion with technologies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.100-114
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• 2007

This study reports the dress style of Daesarye ceremony participants in the Yeong-Jo Era. The King Yeong-jo attending the archery practice ceremony wears Ikseonkwan(翼善冠), Golryongpo(袞龍袍), Okdae(玉帶), and Heukpihwa(黑皮靴) while royal family members and officers in the ceremony wear Heukdalryeong(黑團領). Each officer in Sangbok(常服) who shoots arrows wears a ring and a wristlet with an archery case on his waist. King's bodyguards wear Yungbok(戎服) or Sangbok(常服). Especially, Muyaebyeolgam(武藝別監) wears Hong-geon(紅巾) and a green Jikryeong(直領). Yujiang-gun(儀位軍) wear Pirip(皮笠) and Hongjuryi(紅紬衣) while Hyeopryeongun(狹輦軍) and Hyeopryeogun(狹輦軍) wear Hong-geon(紅巾), Hongyui((紅衣), Cheonghaengjeon(靑行纏), Hakchang(鶴雲), Hongmokdae(紅木帶), and Unhye(雲鞋). Gyeonmabae(牽馬陪) wear Hwangchorip(黃草笠) and Hwangyui(黃衣). Seupjeongun(拾箭軍) and Hwaekja(獲子) wear Jageon(紫巾), Jayui(紫衣), and Unhye(雲鞋). Jeonak(典樂) wears Mora- bokdu and Noksayui(綠抄衣), while Ak-kong(樂工) wear Hwahwabokdu, Hongjuyui(紅紬衣), Ojeongdae, and Heukpihwa(黑皮靴). Lastly, Hyeopryulrang(協律郎) wears Heukdalryeong(黑團領).