• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.880-897
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to apply the traditional Chinese fretwork on the 'Faux Chenille' textile work method in a way of enhancing the decorative features of patterns and developing the fashion design. As for the method, it works on the historic background and advancement of the fretwork and it refers to the bibliographies pertinent to the traditional Chinese geometric pattern. The result are as follows. First, pure cotton and 100% rayon are mixed to make it feasible to produce the texture for the material to be tender and enhanced, and in the process of washing and drying the Faux Chenille textile. The Faux Chenille textile is an important material that is required to select materials with great absorption capability as the most effective material to re-visualize the lines and patterns by sustaining the diagonal lines. Second, the fretwork is designed to process the basic formation for 90° angle with the sense of unlimited extensive line and changes with straight line. It has been confirmed that, if the angle that controls the Faux Chenille textile and the tailoring interval are well aligned, the expression of traditional geometric pattern would be effective and it may be expressed in contemporary style. Third, through the fashion design application by utilizing the Faux Chenille textile of the fretwork, it is confirmed that the contemporary application of the traditional culture could be expressed uniquely and creatively while it is affirmed that the western technique and Asian culture can be blended in harmony.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.252-271
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.124-140
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• 2023

This study analyzes traditional women's Hu costumes of the Tang dynasty, and deploys a creative fashion design to converge contemporary and traditional styles. In this costume, women wear a robe with striped or plain patterns in the lower part of the pants, and it appears frequently in red and yellow colors. Depending on the sleeve, it is either a round collar or a turn down collar robe. In the Hu hat, the huntuomao and juanyanxumao were leather and mili and weimao were used to prevent the sand from flowing. This study uses the CLO 3D program with the "moment" theme based on the Hu costume for women to deploy 4 pairs of fashion design and to produce works for 2 pairs. The 3D virtual clothing program demonstrates important effects in design deployment and pattern arrangement through its efficiency and convenience of clothing production. The CLO 3D program was closely combined with the 2D design and the 3D affect, and it heightened the efficiency in saving the processing time and energy of the sample clothes. Through facilitating the 3D digital fashion design, the production may reduce time needed and contribute to an effective economy, and it may compare digital fashion design to actual products as well as illustrate the potential of digital fashion design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.371-377
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to consider 1990s fashion design involving the utility of function which is the essence of modernism. First, documentary studies about the aesthetic value of the utility of function throughout the 20th century sociocultural contexts has been done. Second, content analysis of articles in American "Vogue" from 1990 to 2002 has been accomplished to hold the actual proof for the utility of function in postmodernism fashion. As a result, the utility of function has been defined the utility of body activity, the utility of practical use, and the utility of mechanical product. According to contents analysis, new aspects has been introduced in use of high-tech fabrics, ornaments, and mass customization in 1990s. In conclusion, the utility of function in fashion has been improved in accordance with the change of sociocultural contexts and women's wants.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2023

This study divided articles into two time periods, from 2012 to 2022, with the aim of using big data analysis to look at patterns in the ecosystem of fashion start-ups. The research method extracted top keywords based on TF(Term Frequency) and TF-IDF(Term Frequency-Inverse Document Frequency), analyzed the network, and derived centrality values. As a result of comparing the first and second fashion startup ecosystems, elements of policy, support, market, finance, and human capital were derived in the first period. In addition, in the second period, elements of policy, support, market, finance, and culture were derived. In the first period, the fashion startup ecosystem focused on fostering new designer startups by emphasizing support, finance, and human capital factors and focusing on policies. Meanwhile, in the second period, online-based fashion platform startups and fashion tech startups appeared with the support of digital transformation and fulfillment services triggered by COVID-19(Corona Virus Disease 19), private finances were emphasized, and cultural factors were derived along with success stories of fashion startups. This study is meaningful in that it helps in developing strategies for fashion startups to grow into sustainable companies.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.90-107
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• 2021

This study concludes that communication based on interaction between broadcasting hosts and consumers is differently characterized by fashion live commerce types. Subcategories of the types of fashion live commerce were created and used in the analyses of domestic consumer awareness. Three subcategories were created: The department store type, Designer brand type, and Influencer host type. Comments representing consumers' awareness that appear immediately during real-time broadcasting were collected and used for the analyses. The frequency and TF-IDF-based top keywords were selected to analyze the semantic network and CONCOR, and the top keywords were analyzed by deriving the values of degree of centrality. The analysis identified that a group of product attributes and a group of live commerce offered value were common between the three types. As for the group characteristics classified by type, for the department store types, brand attributes, benefits, and values from pursuing the products were identified. For designer brand types, a group of viewers' responses and inquiries were identified. It is interpreted that the satisfaction value gained from hosts with product expertise has been clustered. Influencer host types have affirmed a group of external product values. A close relationship is formed and it is thought to have led a group of values to trust the external image of the product. This study carries significance in analyzing real-time comment data from consumers using fashion live commerce to empirically reveal the characteristics of each type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.140-156
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• 2024

This study examined how the motivational language of instructors in senior fashion model classes affects learners' achievement goal orientation and interpersonal competence, as well as their intention to continue participating. The participants in this study were active seniors aged 50 and above, and the analysis was conducted using PLS-SEM and bootstrapping for mediation effects. It was found that autonomous motivation had a significant impact on task achievement goals and interpersonal competence, but not on ego achievement goals. On the other hand, controlled motivation only had a significant impact on ego achievement goals. Additionally, interpersonal competence had a significant impact on the intention to continue participating, and task achievement goals were found to mediate the relationship between autonomous motivation and interpersonal competence. This study aimed to promote understanding of the importance of instructors' motivational language in senior fashion model education and learners' psychology and to provide information that can help develop a fashion-related leisure activity curriculum. It also suggests efficient instructional directions for instructors in senior education, and it is expected to be utilized in the development of fashion-related leisure activity program curricula in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.110-125
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze efforts of the mesa trends on the modern fashion design. For the study documentary research and qualitative content analysis have been carried out. Articles in magazines, seminar reports, and news related to trends were collected and analyzed to develop mega trends nowadays. As results, $2002{\sim}2006$ mega trends were extracted to Co-divergence, Emotional tech, Bi-dentity, Private+One and $2002{\sim}2006$ design trends extracted to Camouflage, Transformation, Modular system, Blur, Ease. The influences of mega trends and design trends on the modern fashion design have been proved. Those were expressed as eclectic style, deconstructionist style, reductive style and functionalist style in fashion design. The present era could be defined as cultural pluralism blended with various cultures and styles. Fashion as the essential display of contemporary culture and society has been successfully confirmed in this study.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.69-82
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• 2023

High-tech sensibility textile and fashion, in which consumers' emotions and various textile and fashion technologies are converged, is an important industrial group. It is important to develop the ability to apply in practice by gathering the creative by understanding other fields and exchanging ideas through interdisciplinary collaboration in the field of emotional engineering. Through interdisciplinary research and collaboration, talent must be nurtured of individuals who would lead the era of the 4^th Industrial Revolution with the ability to empathize with others as well as the creative convergence-type intellectual ability necessary for the rapidly changing society. To determine content-creation methods, basic research is conducted. Additionally, this study investigates on the current status and educational process of the emotional textile-fashion industry worldwide. To nurture talents in the textile and fashion sensibility science, the basic contents are created to manage the knowledge that delivers sensibility science and the ICT related to this field, as well as in the intensive, PB-style conceptual design based on sensibility. The process from derivation of consumer emotion analysis and product development can be experienced through smart kit practice. Moreover, various methods are developed to set up intellectual property rights generated while developing ICT convergence products as start-ups. The study also covers new knowledge rights to develop emotional textile fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.53-71
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• 2001

The purpose of this study how 'Afro-American resistance' is showed up in the fashion trough the study of rapper's fashion present in singing rap music. Rap music produced by the influence of black music. It have been the tool of expression of pain and sorrow of their lives and included their resistant spirit. So rapper's fashion expressed resistance. at this point I categorized the resistant feature of rapper's fashion at two types in terms of the extent of expression. Their are active resistance fashion and passive resistance fashion. Also each fashion types was classified in terms of style, material, color, accessories and so forth. Active fashion is possible to classify these three styles as follows. The first one is Afrocentic style that was raised from longing for Africa. The second one is Military style which contains an ling-time enduring spirit of resistance against the society. The last one is Hiphop style that violated the typical rule of dressing under the hiphop style culture. these kinds of active resistance are also classified as material like blue Jean showing black workers' resistance, color like black showing off superiority of 'black' and red, gold and green color expressing black people's resistance, and other accessories like chains, cross and so on. Passive resistance fashion has several variations according to the style. There are Jazz style, Uniform style and Hiphop style. It is also categorized as high-tech materials, white color which is the expression of desire for white and luxurious accessories showing off wealth.