• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.359-374
• /
• 2017

The objective of this study was to compare business management indicators among textiles and fashion companies. Business management indicators of 356 textiles and fashion companies for the year 2015 were analyzed, using income statements showing their management results. The results were as follows. First, there were statistically significant differences between the operating income ratios of textiles and fashion companies for the term, but there were none when it came to net income ratio. Second, the differences between cost of goods sold, cost of finished goods sold, and cost of merchandise sold to sales ratios among textiles and fashion companies were all statistically significant. The cost of goods sold, cost of finished goods sold, and cost of merchandise sold to sales ratios were higher for fiber and thread companies, fabric companies, and dyeing and finishing companies than for clothing and fashion accessories companies. Third, there were statistically significant differences between the ratio of salaries and the ratio of advertising expenses among textiles and fashion companies. The salaries ratios and advertising expenses ratios for clothing companies were higher than those of fiber and yarn companies, fabric companies, and dyeing and finishing companies. This study is meaningful as it has identified the business characteristics of textiles and fashion companies using the management indicators of those companies, which have not been sufficiently explored by previous studies. It has also helped to improve understanding of the industrial structure of the upstream and midstream sectors of the textiles and fashion industries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.8
• /
• pp.85-99
• /
• 2011

Geometrical figures have been used as artwork motifs from the ancient times to the present day. The area of fashion, being a part of modern art, is also largely influenced by geometry and geometrical shapes are being used as a motif for fashion design now more than ever before. However, studies about geometry in the fashion field are not yet done enough and further research is necessary. This research will therefore investigate the usages of round, square and triangular design in contemporary fashion. The main scope of this research is to look at the type of expression and analyze the intrinsic meanings of these shapes in modern fashion. This research will look profoundly into the general characteristics of these geometrical figures and analyze the effects and uniqueness found in the world collection introduced since 2007. As a result from this study, it was found that round and square objects were perceived in such a straightforward and positive way and these designs, when worn, really completed the final look. On the other hand, the triangular design was used mainly for spatial expansion and was interpreted in a more metaphorical, indirect and abstract way. The intrinsic meaning of round, square and triangle figures in contemporary fashion consists of the informal features that really steps out of the formative clothing structure. The topological changes that is formed from the interactive functions and the wholism that creates a new system through integration of the human body and clothing contains the intrinsic meaning of these geometrical figures. Based on the research results, the method of expression and the characteristics of modern day fashion's geometrical figures was able to be easily understood. This work provides the useful information on the development of fashion design and the extended interpretation of clothing structure.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.147-156
• /
• 2015

Lately, unique hats, which worn by iconic figures in fashion industry, like Anna Piaggi and Isabella Blow to express the originality and self-awareness, received attention from the mass media along with their styles. The purpose of this research is to investigate, analyze, and media-specific characteristics of objet hats which are used to show various items, shape up targets, and express the concept of attires. In order to fulfill this, this study focuses on objet hat designers who have been influential from the 1980's to recent years. As for the research methodologies, this study conducts investigating examples from fashion related books, research papers, and websites along with literary research. Study of objet hat is based on cases and works of designer in objet hat in contemporary fashion expression shape. As a result, objet hat, First, the experimental work to maximize the effectiveness as a fashion objet containing the concept of designer in the runway shows. Second, as pieces displayed on art galleries and museums, objet hats are recognized as artistically defined world of conceptual designers' imaginations. Third, objet hats function as ways of celebrities' expression, who affects the public as fashion leaders. Lastly, objet hat designers's activities operate the story and notion contained in the work through a variety of genres. Objet hats, an independent fashion genre, which symbolize creativity and freedom, influenced the fashion industry with astonishing materials, forms, and decorations.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.85-98
• /
• 2009

Advance development of the internet has brought significant changes to the distribution structure of the fashion industry, resulting in decreased sales in Road shops and sudden growth of online fashion specialty shopping malls. As detailed analysis on internet fashion shopping malls is necessary in order to make a future projection on changes in the fashion industry, this thesis aims to study the color, fabric / pattern, silhouette, item / detail, image, etc of 2008 S/S apparel fashion style sold in the top ten shopping malls, selected in terms of sales volume and awareness. The results were further analyzed to characterize each individual shopping malls, upon which the design was compared with the five main trends for the season provided by three fashion research agencies in order to study the level of trend acceptance. Studies showed that 'Romantic Sake' trend was most widely accepted, followed by 'Eco Nature' which most reflected the characteristics of Spring. 'Modern Ethenic' trend was most aggressively accepted at more upscale shopping malls targeting older demographic, while " Play Urban' was highly accepted by shopping malls specializing in young casual. Due to the disadvantage of not being able to try on the items before purchase, styles following the 'City Luxe' trend featuring fitted suits showed the lowest trend acceptance. Amongst the design elements, color was most widely accepted.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.23 no.5
• /
• pp.31-47
• /
• 2019

This study focuses on women and fashion in Korea between the 1960s and 1970s, when the government regulated the socio-cultural aspects of individuals while achieving remarkable economic industrialization, particularly through the representative popular weekly magazine 'Sunday-Seoul'. The scope of this study included 168 issues from September 22, 1968 to December 26, 1971. Two research methods were applied, literature research and content analysis research. First, the literature on Korean society, culture, women's fashion, the sociological, feminine and popular cultural studies were reviewed. Thereafter, the contents, cover, articles, pictorials were collected and analyzed for classification and identification of the women's images and women's fashion. In the case of fashion articles, the contents of vocabulary and description texts were highlighted, and in the case of pictorials, the visual elements such as images, silhouettes of clothes, details of features, and patterns of materials were assessed. The images of women in Sunday Seoul's articles and pictorials exhibited extreme opposite, presenting the most important purpose of marriage, 'wise mother and good wife' and 'image of sexual object' for men. The two images of women differed; however, there was one more female image 'industrial laborer' which was placed in the blind spot of interest. The characteristics of fashion which appeared in 'Sunday-Seoul' were 'uniform modern elegance' based on neat mini-style, and 'sexual image of exposure fashion' which endeavored to selectively borrow from overseas pictorials and trend-oriented articles. This could be viewed as a 'transformation of traditional Hanbok', 'avant-garde trend' and 'de-sexualization & indifference of fashion'.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• v.59 no.4
• /
• pp.449-463
• /
• 2021

The aim of this study was to analyze the perceptions and entering status of small business online fashion retailers on portal shopping and fashion shopping malls. Case studies were conducted on a total of 10 research samples. The results were as follows: first, regarding the strategic factors of online fashion stores, 'price competitiveness' is important, especially in portal shopping and low-cost brands; 'product assortment' is important but not essential in all platforms; and 'differentiation' is important to continuously secure loyal customers in fashion shopping malls. Customer satisfaction leads to customer loyalty, and customer loyalty affects the sales conversion rate and brand growth of online sales channels. Factors that promoted sales activities in online sales channels were exposure, advertisements, SNS, events, special exhibitions, and events. Hindrance factors were low price competition, overheated competition, and the MD of sales channels. Second, the research samples used multiple online sales channels, including portal shopping malls and fashion shopping malls, in addition to their own malls. The selection factors were platform reputation and commission, branding, and customer inflow through exposure. Portal shopping malls were perceived as providing easy access, advertising/customer communication, exposure/search, price competitiveness, scalability, and intense competition, whereas fashion shopping malls were perceived as providing a brand image and concept, brand promotion, high commissions, difficult entry, and low profits. The factors for success in portal shopping malls were exposure/search, price competitiveness, and brand recognition, whereas the factors for success in fashion shopping malls were differentiation, brand, exposure/advertisement, product assortment, and MD.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.6
• /
• pp.19-33
• /
• 2002

In the middle of economic and mental riches in the 21st century, the importance of well being and the pursuit of happiness are emerging as the new trend. Thus the lifestyle that values comfortable and practical naturalness and intrinsic merits has come to influence the human life rather than the old showing-off and formal desire. In addition to this, the spread of the five day week has given more leisure time, which has led to the increasing interest in health and leisure. The interest in sports has skyrocketed since the successful holding of the 2002 Korea and Japan World Cup event. All these changes to the lifestyle have contributed to the fusion of luxury wear and sports wear. As the result of the consumers in the 21st century having more classified and upgraded way of living thanks to the settlement of the above-mentioned lifestyle and the enlargement of the leisure sports culture, there has appeared the wellness kin, who value the importance of life and the nature and believe in the idea that they can reconstruct the environment in the way they can enjoy their lifestyle and pursue happiness. They favor healthy fashion items and think much of exercise, nutrition, and rest. They pursue the natural and comfortable style, whose ideas came from simple exercises such as health training and yoga and the easy and comfortable look observed at resorts. Their fashion style can be divided into three of fitness fashion, yoga fashion and resort fashion. First, the boxer fashion is characterized by the relaxing design and practicality. The major items of the fashion include running shirt-styled upper clothes, training pants, hooded shirts and sneakers. Simple and comfortable look should be induced from the combination of the items. Second, the yoga fashion was motivated by the comfortable yoga wear. It advocates stress-free spirit and comfortable and stable naturalism. Along with the advantages of the good feeling to wear and the functionality to help exercise better, the yoga fashion gives the wearer enough room to move around in, using the unique lines. Third, the resort wear refers to the kinds of clothes you tend to wear at the beach and the park. There are various kinds of the resort look; bathing suits, the beach wear you can wear with the bathing suit, the resort evening wear, the full-side look that you try on top of the bathing suit and is made of the same material of the bathing suit, and the marine look, the symbol of the summer. In short, the study attempted to investigate many trends occurring as the result of human recent increasing interest and concern in the quality of life, and the impacts of them on the fashion world. This kind of research that examines the background of the times and society will help to grasp with the fashion trends of the present and the future. And more studies should be conducted on the development of new and original design in clothes fashion, which reflects the characteristics identified in this kind of research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.28
• /
• pp.239-253
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.1
• /
• pp.14-28
• /
• 2012

'Beauty(美)' is pursued by many women. It has been expressed through fashion which has become more various as the society became wealthier. This phenomenon can also be found in the Salon Culture of the 17~18th Centuries and in the way that the free-style socialization without specific purposes began by women. Such 'salon culture' fashions have been reproduced in various methods by contemporary fashion designers as they met the trends or as they became the inspiration and source of ideas and were reinterpreted in various styles. Therefore, it is necessary to compare and analyze the studies and expression methods regarding that style's effects on contemporary fashion at a time when the women's salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries is being naturally combined with or restructured to fit in with contemporary fashion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze, establish the concept of, and summarize the characteristics of the salon fashion style in order to provide fundamental scholarly information and a direction for the fashion design market by establishing a database on the characteristics of both eras based on the characteristics analysis results of the contemporary fashion style and salon culture era. Moreover, this study is also significant in that it will be a helpful tool for new design development to satisfy consumer needs, and in that the comparison analysis on the salon culture and contemporary fashion characteristics can be a useful tool to understand the fashions of both era. The study methods were, first, through a literature review to study the concepts and background of the salon culture. The second method was to setup a style analysis of a period of 4 years and collect visual data from internet fashion information web sites, such as collection books, to collect and analyze the data. Third, the analysis focused mainly on the results of the categorization of images with 20 fashion experts. Fourth, the details of the salon culture fashion style that are used the most in contemporary fashion were summarized and analyzed. Therefore, the results of this study are as follows The development of the socializing culture during the economically abundant era of the 17~18th Centuries became the stepstool for women to enter a new society and at the same time became the background of the development of the salon and related literature. For the characteristics of the salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries, the changes were more significant in the details of the collars, necklines, sleeves, and robes, rather than in partial silhouette changes. It was found that the same fashion repeats in several-century intervals depending on the era changes; however, it has been reinterpreted newly based on consumer preferences and era situations instead of being reused exactly. Therefore, this study will become scholarly and fundamental data to establish the contemporary understanding of the fashion of the salon culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.2
• /
• pp.78-92
• /
• 2008

The mutual relationship between fashion and architecture and the similarities in their form and structure have been continuously debated over the decades, considering that both spheres are objects used in human life. Both spheres bring about the creation of three-dimensional space structures that are completed by the human body and material, based on a design targeted for people. The similarities between fashion and architecture in terms of form and structure have been debated by western architecture scholars focusing on the support that holds the garment's shape, the tailoring of a men's suit and also the material. The debate originates from the discussion of F. Th. Vischer, Kritische Gnge, and Gottfried Semper during the nineteenth century on the similarities between crinoline and the form of architecture and also the similarities between sewing and architecture. However, architects always regarded fashion as the inferior creative process that follows architecture in viewing the relationship between fashion and architecture. During the mid to end of the twentieth century, contrary to previous decades, the sense of fashion in architecture stood out, as an issue and a different approach was taken in discussing architecture that incorporates fashion. Accordingly, in the mid 1990's, architecture scholars such as Deborah Fausch and Mark Wigley began to conduct close observation of the mutual relationship between fashion and architecture from a more equal point of view. Notwithstanding, their point of view was still biased towards architectural standards. Commencing the Millennium, fashion has become the primary work of creation which leads style in all spheres, and under these circumstances this point of view has transferred from architecture to fashion when thinking about relationships between these spheres. The discussion on fashion and architecture form fashion's point of view is currently concentrated on the post 1990's phenomenon and illustrates the environment that is related to architecture. In general, the discussion is limited to determining a work of an individual designer as 'being architectural' when explaining the sculptural form of fashion. Therefore, this research aims to renew the discussion on twentieth century fashion design, which was neglected in any studies on observing architecture and fashion. The aim of this research is to classify the architectural paradigm of twentieth century fashion design and to observe the architectural forms of the respective eras. It is necessary to have a close observation of the architectural paradigm in twentieth century fashion design where support tools such as the crinoline was avoided and the form and functionality of the garment itself was emphasized. I will conduct this research by considering the architectural form shown in fashion as a practical three-dimensional creation that exists in space.