• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.137-147
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• 1998

Fahion as the form construction of decon-structivistic architecture was analyzed by dividing it into the intrinsic aspect and the formal aspect through an introduction of three characteristic architectural principles into fashion. Intrinsic deconstructivistic fashion as the construction of architectural form has the mixurte of genders both in a form of transvestic and in a form of genderless look as dualism, and can be characterized by pluralistic nationlism with the emergence of the Third World alienated from the international society, and so forth. Difference and the prefixes of dis-and de- are schizophrenic mystic illusionism, chance effect and the differance of space and time and is supporting Jacques Derrida's chiasmus that is the perspective of collage in painting and the multiple observation of collage in painting and the multiple observation point as the play of borrowing the surrealistic technique. The formal construction of deconstructivistic fashion the construction of architectural form has intertextuality material, hybridization of items and the blending of modes and another sphere. Trace as icon deconstrucion attains historical analysis. Dis and de in fashion are showing the retrogre-ssion of gravity through decomposition, decon-tinuity and disjunction emerge nonstructural silho-uette, juxtaposition, inversion and replace- ment of underwear and outer garments. Their decentring expression emerged as construction through mixture and repetition as well as overlapping of planes or spaces. And their disjuctive representation appeared in the form of mutual juxtaposition and substitution with the double-side of formal construction in functional terms.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.289-300
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• 2016

This study surveys children's costumes and games from the 11 Genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(Stewart Culin 1858-1929)". The character of the general dress-costumes, games and the culture of life from the late $19^{th}$ century in genre painting of Junkeun Kim are as follows. The study results on the games are as follow. The boy's games are kite-flying, spinning tops, playing shuttlecock with the feet, blindman's buff, yut("Four-Stick Game"). Girl's games are seesaw with board, blindman's buff, marbles. Combined games are mount shoulder, sledge, tightrope walking for men with boy. The strengthen one's body type were seesaw with board, tightrope walking, the compete score type were playing shuttlecock with the feet, marbles and the multi complex type were yut("Four-Stick Game"), kite-flying. Through genre painting in the $19^{th}$ century we know a boy's 'Jeogori 'and 'Ba-ji' were similar to a modern man's and boy's 'Hanbok' with a traditional method of wearing. We believe that the originality of a traditional costume was an unchangeable characteristic. Girl's 'Jeogori' and 'Chi-ma' changed in length and width, and method of wearing; however, the basic shape did not change. The analysis for artist's genre painting which was ordered by a foreigner and the late of $19^{th}$ century's children's costume and game of life culture is useful to match the counters and show how to wear a modern Korean costume used to understand the 'Hanbok' and establish a costume of life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to find out more usages in today's fashion industry where various designs and changes of production required. And this research will also suggest new products and new directions to enhance the efficiency of product planning and production in knit industry using SDS-ONE program. Ethiopia in East Africa, knit already has been used as a school uniform. There is a big difference in temperature spread due to. Knit is a proper item to initiate the textile industries of underdeveloped countries. So this research can develop knit industry and lead the trend of introducing fashion in school uniforms. In this research, we use Paint of SDS-ONE to transform the patterned item into color jacquard, and show it on the designed clothes using simulation. It is shown that body painting pattern is suitable conditions for knit jacquard and simplified pattern can be applied as an excellent knit. And it is discovered the simulation feature of SDS-ONE program has a high efficiency and can be used effectively in African textile industry the future mass production base; SDS-ONE simulation can show various patterns and colors with constrained kinds of threads. Since the body painting designs can be applied in various fields, and from women's wear to men's wear, without limitation, we can take advantage of the broad.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.75-91
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• 2003

This study analyzed descriptions about dots, lines, and sides which are used as a basic elements to express geometric figures as followings: -In the aspect of formative art, dots form images and feelings through their concurrence when make a slight move to coordinates. The concurrence can bring out either positive or negative images; -Lines have unlimited variation as a core measure in body art. They can make optimal effects with different lines such as straight and curved lines of human body; -Sides express not only effects of texture and perspective but also of space and solid by color effects. Expressive characteristics and geometric shapes can be classified by tattoo, henna and body painting: First, colorful tattoos are favored by Caucasian and original tattoos are mostly used by yellow and colored races in the way of scarification to get decorative effects. Recently, a rapid cycle of fashion change in tattoo figures has developed a tentative method of tattooing and a variety of decoration methods. It has made it a lot easier to change a pattern of a tattoo. Tattoos are now popular among people because they no longer have to suffer from pains when they get their body tattooed for a long time. Since tattoos boast their unique beauty which consists of most dynamic and attractive images among the types of body art. It will be one of the most favored make-up methods in the nearest future. Second, geometric designs used in henna include crosses, dots, straight lines, triangles, date palms, and so on. Henna has been particularly loved as an instant decoration by the public since it gradually disappears as time goes on. Third, body painting enables to draw a three-dimensional effect because of its close relation with body movements in a limited space. Each individual will have a different feeling appealed in their body painting. Body painting has been applied to many different areas, especially to theatrical art using lights, music and performance altogether producing impromptu and experimental works. Unlike other arts such as painting, sculpture, visual and industrial arts, body painting has mobility. Since it is painted on a three-dimensional human body, it can bear originality expressing realistic objects or animals and strengthen creative functions using body lines. Moreover, geometric designs can be diversified by the sexes. As a result of analysis, geometric designs expressed in body art seemed to transcend expressions of beauty and turned out to be another way of decoration. Body art has also been used as a way to express visual integration and consolidation dynamically not by human instinct but by social changes. The needs for body art will grow as the future comes nearer and be recognized as a new and fresh value. Formative elements of geometric figures deliver visual impressions combined with human body and finally create more various types of body art in harmony of body lines.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.78-78
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.73-85
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty from the viewpoint of public morals and find out how characteristic beauty culture was developed along with traditional culture. Therefore, the clothes, the make-up, the style of beard and hair were examined and the beauty culture of women in the latter period Chosun Dynasty was considered. The changes of the beauty culture on the genre painting and the characteristics of the latter period Chosun Dynasty were analyzed. Conclusions are as follows ;First, in case of woman dress, the Korean Jergori was short and the Chima was too long. Due to the diversification of wearing, the underpants play as a decorations. Second, the hair which focus on the cleanness and the sanitation and the skin maintenance method were important. The make-up focus on make-up with powder which emphasis on the slim and round eyebrow, the small and thick lips for the beauty look of the latter period Chosun Dynasty. Third, a unmarried woman did the braids('Taun Muri') and a feme covert did 'Unseen Muri'. As people cling to the big and head of hairs gradually, the chignon('Terae Muri') was in fashion. The beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty clothes and cosmetic treatment style were generalized through nobility, common people, lowly people. The imitation mentality which follow after Gisaeng style that led the fashion of that period was shown up. With understanding the beauty culture of the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, the study on the traditional beauty culture should be revitalized. This study help to uplift the pride on Korea traditional culture and to promote the globalization of Korean culture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.25-34
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• 1998

This study has it's purpose in examining the materialized background. characteristic of African traditional costume and the A fro fashion of the year 1960. and it's influence on the contemporary fashion. Then the findings are applied to suggest a new way of image creation. 1960' s was the year in which people tried to free oneself from the ruling culture of the social standards. war. and the development of science. By such movement. people started to get interested in the environment and ecology. This then lead to the interest of the rights of the minority. With the youngs as the central figure A fro hair style and dashiki appeared as the street fashion. The characteristics of African costume applied to A fro fashion in 1990' s is as below. First. the North African style. Djellaba. and wrap style in the most common silhouette. Second. heavy materials such as stone. copper. silver. and gold are used. Necklace can be classified according to it's simple but. modern style. delicate but grand style. Bracelets are however. broad in width and many rings are worn widely. Third. Multi colored stripe and prints inspired by tattoo and deformation using red brown. dark beige. and orange are printed on textiles such as see through. Fourth. image of tattoo and deformation are applied to make-up. A fro hair and corn beads are also African taste. Fifth. African taste in recent fashion showed off the black beauty by appointing black models at the collection. In analyzing the study done above. characteristic images of African costume. accessaries and body painting was applied in presenting 3 creative designs. The first design named "Geometric I", took it's motif from the geometric pattern of the body painting with the afro hair. "Geometric II", the second design, showed it's application of geometric pattern of mutilation and the silhouette of the costume by using the see through. The third design called the "Geometric III" showed that the aesthetic and decorative side of clothing can be satisfied by applying various form and color of accessaries as the motif. A fro fashion is chosen as one of the folklore mood and it's beauty is conveyed on till today.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.514-522
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• 2013

This study reviews the principles for the techniques of Impressionist paintings as well as analyzed contemporary fashion designs with a focus on a motif-building technique based on the laws of a screen equivalent as a visual formative approach. We provide design principles based on fashion design painting techniques. Previous research on the laws of the screen equivalent of Impressionist paintings were studied and a qualitative analysis was conducted on fashion design cases from 2011, 2012 S/S and F/W collections. The analysis resulted in the following outcomes. First, the development of new motifs were found directly correlated to the creativity of design if it was a motif-building design. Second, in the selected fashion design cases, cutting lines and details were covered by motifs and their shapes collapsed in regards to overall visual uniformity so that specific details were hard to identify. Third, clothing shapes are recognized the changing colors of motifs and not through construction pattern lines; therefore, the expressions of diverse visual forms were available without being disturbed by construction pattern lines. This is deemed equivalent to an Impressionist painting style that depicts shapes with colors instead of lines. Lastly, the cases covered in this study have created new visual aspects that replace the stereoscopic spatial depth of clothes with a 'sensuous surface'. The pleasures derived from the sensuous surface are deemed equivalent to the visual pleasures created by Impressionist paintings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.131-145
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• 2021

As the use of cultural elements to enhance design has become increasingly emphasized, fashion studies are focusing more on the cultural aspects of design. However, the diverse approaches of Minhwa (Korean folk painting) still need to be incorporated into fashion designs. Moreover, there is limited research on the awareness and thought of using a cultural design source of Minhwa based on people from different cultural backgrounds. This study aims to reveal an in-depth understanding of the use of Minhwa and its inner symbolic meaning by people from a diverse range of cultural backgrounds. A review of the literature on cultural design and Minhwa studies was conducted to establish a theoretical foundation. Focus group interviews were conducted with 26 participants, who were divided into five distinct cultural groups to ascertain their thoughts towards Minhwa and its inner symbolic meaning. The study's major findings were threefold. First, the outer appearance of Minhwa elements based on aesthetic preferences and familiarity affect their preference choices more than the influences of their cultural backgrounds. Second, knowing the knowledge of symbolic meaning makes a big difference in image preference. Third, avoiding the use of anachronisms is a significant consideration, as they can lead to negative judgments irrespective of cultural background.