• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.381-389
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• 2002

This research was designed to investigate the preference to textiles for slacks of college students. 105 subjects majored in fashion design were surveyed. Subjects selected three favorite materials among 120 samples presented in swatch book and weighted frequency and percentage were added by order. The extent of preference was compared by season and sex. The results of this study were as follows: 1. College students preferred twill cotton Drill foremost as a textile for spring and fall season. 2. Plain linen Crash was the most preferred material for summer. 3. Cotton Corduroy was the most preferred textile for winter. 4. In thickness and weight, textiles for winter were thicker and heavier than those of other seasons. 5. In fiber content, natural fiber such as wool were preferred for all seasons. 6. In weave of textiles, twill weave fabric was preferred for spring fall and winter season, and plain weave for summer. 7. College students preferred plain texture materials foremost and navy blue and black color was preferred for textiles for slacks. 8. Girl students preferred cotton fabrics and boys preferred wool fabric for slacks. Also, girls generally preferred thinner fabrics than those of boys.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.433-439
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• 2004

Hanji costumes has four aspects that allow the creator or artist to create many variations. The pictorial effects of Hanji costumes are produced through variations in the dyes and brushes used for its application. The amount of water and texture of the Hanji mixture also influences the Hanji clothing. This effect was expressed using a dry brush technique, a dripping technique, India inks, and fragments from other Hanji works. A second aspect of Hanji clothing is the coloring effect in the Hanji costumes. The coloring is due to the fibers in the preparation mixture and the uniqueness of the dyes. The Hanji clothing was dyed various colors and patterns by dip dyeing, block dyeing, silk screens, digital printing. The third aspect of Hanji imagination in clothing is the decorative details. The details in Hanji clothing can be seen using frills, pleats, tucks and ribbons. The last variation of Hanji clothing can be expressed through crafting techniques. These techniques are the quality of paper string, cuts in the paper and paste ingredients. With Hanji cloth, it is possible to plait, roll, and crample into other flexible & useful materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.19-31
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• 2015

Futurists put forward creative fashion by combining art and functionality. This led to a new aesthetic approach in how we view modernized industrial cities. Ernesto Thayaht, a futurist, introduced the "Tuta", which was simple and practical clothes. Tuta expressed the imagination and aesthetic values of Futurism. The characteristics of the Tuta were categorized into the following: Form, Colors, Materials, and Details. The results of examining its characteristics as follows: Tuta had a linear and simple planar pattern, which could be made with one cloth. The same modernized urban colors were used for the top and the bottom. Practical Materials, such as cotton and linen were used because they were easy to wash. Tuta excluded unnecessary ornaments, and only included functional details that would allow for comfortable movement. These design characteristics of Tuta revealed functionality, popularity, modernity, and innovativeness of formativeness. Tuta presented a new model of fashion in the early 20th century and completed the modernization of clothes. Tuta reflected the democratic and equal spirit of the era by innovating and overcoming the structure and form of conventional clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.679-685
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s and the images of the Power suit styles shown in 08/09 F/W, 09 S/S, 09/10 F/W and 10 S/S collections. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s are authority, sexuality and luxury to express the power, body and wealth. Authority is represented in wide and hard shoulders with pads and dark colors with stripe and no patterns. Sexuality is represented in tight waist jacket and tight skirt. Luxury is represented in luxurious fabrics and handicraft ornaments. 2) The Power suit styles shown in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, avant-garde and ethnic images: Classic images appeared in jacket which exaggerated shoulders with pads, mini skirt, tapered pants, dark colors with stripe and check patterns, rough materials and a waist belt. Romantic images are represented in the skirt with an asymmetric hem, pastel and splendid colors, lace and silk, romantic details made with gathers and flounces and fantastic accessories. Avant-garde images appeared in the deformed jacket, unperfected skirt, special materials and exaggerated accessories. Ethnic images are represented in big silhouette forms with wide shoulders jacket and wide pants, ethnic patterns, gold, orange and other vivid colors and ethnic accessories.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.493-503
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• 2017

This study investigated water vapor permeability of the 73 breathable fabrics for sports-wear according to the materials, finishing methods and fabric structural parameters. The water vapor permeability by KS K 0594 method of PET breathable fabric was superior than that of nylon one, in addition, water vapor permeability of coated or laminated breathable fabrics were higher than those of hot melt or dot laminated fabrics. The water vapor permeability of breathable fabric was dependent on the thickness, weight and density, which was consistent with measuring method. However, water vapor permeability according to materials and finishing method showed different results according to measuring method. The correlation coefficient of WVP of PET breathable fabrics between ISO and KS K measuring methods was -0.83 and the correlation coefficient of WVP of coated breathable fabrics was -0.72 and -0.71 for KS K and ASTM and -0.72 for KS K and ISO in hot melt laminated breathable fabrics. According to regression analysis, WVP of PET breathable fabric by both KSK and ISO measuring methods was highly dependent upon on the density and weight. In addition, WVP of hot melt laminated breathable fabric was highly dependent upon thickness, weight and density. Therefore, relevant measuring method for WVP of breathable fabrics has to be adopted to measure precise breathability.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.153-163
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• 2019

This study is designed to present a direction for the development of an up-cycling design applied with Hangeul calligraphy on outdated clothing materials, and recreating them as eco-friendly high value-added cultural products. The results of this study are as follows. First, Hangeul calligraphy enhances creativity and scarcity by expressing an unformatted analog sensibility in the digital era and further emphasizes the differentiated high value-added aspect of the products. Second, the characteristics of the up-cycling design products represent eco-friendliness, handcrafting, non-fabrication, originality, scarcity, storytelling, and customization. Third, the author made 11 up-cycling cultural products using Hangeul calligraphy, applying it to discarded jeans and pieces of cloth. Fourth, the phases of making cultural products are divided into planning and production. In the planning phase, items and materials are decided upon, design sketches are made, and in the production phase the items go through partial dismantlement, separation, reconstruction, collaboration, and the application of calligraphy printing. Along with the beautiful and lyrical sensibility of Hangul, it was shown that up-cycling using Hangeul calligraphy, which has excellent originality and practicality of design, can be expanded to a variety of cultural products.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.95-111
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• 2000

The purpose of this research is to investigate the concept of the photomontage technique, one of the various photographic techniques, and to analyze the photomontage image through the patterns that appeared in 1990's fashions. Moreover, by making clothes using the photomontage image, the intention of this study to apply the technique in real life is achieved. The results of this thesis for making clothes utilizing image of the photomontage are as followings. First, the photomontage expands the variety of materials that can be used, because the clothes using the photomontage image are able to take any photo images. Second, two different eras can co-exist in a piece of work since a photomontage work can uses two images from different eras. Third, it allows greater adaptability by expressing variety and utility in the making of the casual styles using conventional photo materials. The conclusion of this study is that the clothes appearing in the late 20th century using the photomontage image have been developed corresponding to the accelerated development of photography, machinery, and technical skill in civilization. Trends break away from the conventional expressions of art. This is a new trend and direction in art that will effect culture in the 21st century. The photo montage image would show the possibility of a good unification between human being and machines.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.71-81
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• 2018

This study aims at exploring how the existing stereotypes of needlework, which has long been regarded as a tribute to domestic labor and hobbies which are the purview of women, have come into play in the current trend of convergence among various fields, techniques and materials. This research examines these trends based on cases in two categories applied to the fields of art and space use products. In the field of art, it can be seen that needlework is applied in a variety of ways in the overall diffusion of craftivism, which is a way of asserting opinions about politics and societies. In yarn bombing and performance art, not only do needlework experts, but also, artists of other genres, underscore their propensity of carrying out projects that take advantage of the basic principles of needlework and various physical properties. Various needlework projects applied to the space use products showed the tendency to interact with the spectator or the user as a basic element through examples of playscape, which has the function of being used for relaxation and play. The study was able to confirm the tendency of interior products, which are made from needlework to furniture and tableware directly, and the tendency of materials' expansion. Based on this research, we are going to explore the possibilities for diverse new fusion attempts in fashion and textiles, as well as art, craft and design fields, in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.221-236
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to the development of creative fashion culture through the expansion of creative fields in the fashion design area and also the combination of fashion and art techniques, by classifying the cases of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion, and also analyzing its aesthetic characteristics. Conducting the qualitative research through the literature study and the analysis of design cases, it targeted the women's wear collections of Paris, Milan, London, and New York, limiting its range from S/S 2010 to F/W 2015. The results are as follows: First, based on the preceding research, the types of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion were shown as realistic expression of clothing, movement of daily objects, double images, and application of human body. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ based on its expression types were deconstruction, avant-garde, and amusements. The deconstruction was expressed in the expression type of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ such as freedom of materials using digital printing technique, change in the position of clothes, and movement of daily items using collage technique by collecting objets like daily items or waste. The avant-garde was expressed by switching/overlapping in and out of clothes, intentionally exposing some body parts like breast or torso, displacing body parts, and moving daily items. The amusements was shown by realistically expressing accessories or details of clothes using digital printing technique, or moving daily items such as book and fork.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.78-94
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• 2013

In order to examine the influence of Anti-form in contemporary fashion focusing on 'signs of time', which illustrates the zeitgeist effects art and fashion, this study investigates both Anti-form movement in art of 1960s and 1970s and the fashion designs since 1970s when the signs of the influence of Anti-form in fashion began to appear. This was done by conducting literary survey as well as case analysis. Anti-form values the process and signs of time in that it visualizes the time and the process of making artworks. The emphasis on signs of time in Anti-form is observed in postmodernism fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process, visualization of signs of wearing, and continuation of wearing experience are all influences of the Anti-form in fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process exposes the techniques and the materials involved in garment construction such as linings, inside-out seams, interlinings, and unraveled hems, as well as the use of muslin, which is used in making garment prototypes. Signs of wearing is articulated in wrinkles caused by wearing, sings of alteration, reappeared designs of the past collections, reuse of vintage fabrics or garments, and the fabrics which assumes aged appearance. Continuous experience of a wearer is indicated in that the garment shape is not predetermined but changes continuously by the wearer's body shape and movement, which generates new and relative silhouettes continuously.