Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Influence of Anti-Form in Contemporary Fashion - Focusing on Signs of Time -

현대 패션에 표현된 안티포름의 영향 - 시간성을 중심으로 -

  • Received : 2012.08.20
  • Accepted : 2012.11.17
  • Published : 2013.04.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

In order to examine the influence of Anti-form in contemporary fashion focusing on 'signs of time', which illustrates the zeitgeist effects art and fashion, this study investigates both Anti-form movement in art of 1960s and 1970s and the fashion designs since 1970s when the signs of the influence of Anti-form in fashion began to appear. This was done by conducting literary survey as well as case analysis. Anti-form values the process and signs of time in that it visualizes the time and the process of making artworks. The emphasis on signs of time in Anti-form is observed in postmodernism fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process, visualization of signs of wearing, and continuation of wearing experience are all influences of the Anti-form in fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process exposes the techniques and the materials involved in garment construction such as linings, inside-out seams, interlinings, and unraveled hems, as well as the use of muslin, which is used in making garment prototypes. Signs of wearing is articulated in wrinkles caused by wearing, sings of alteration, reappeared designs of the past collections, reuse of vintage fabrics or garments, and the fabrics which assumes aged appearance. Continuous experience of a wearer is indicated in that the garment shape is not predetermined but changes continuously by the wearer's body shape and movement, which generates new and relative silhouettes continuously.

Keywords

References

  1. Lynton, N. (1994), 20세기의 미술, 윤난지 역, 서울: 예경, p. 384.
  2. Doss, E. (2002), Twentieth-century American art, Oxford. New York: Oxford University Press, p. 176.
  3. Mitchell, L. (2005), The cutting edge: Fashion from Japan, Sydney: Powerhouse Publishing, p. 29.
  4. 주미영, 김영인 (2006), 패션에 있어서 시간성이 반영된 룩에 관한 고찰, 복식, 56(6), pp. 1-15.
  5. 주미영, 김영인 (2006), 패션에 있어서 시간성이 반영된 룩에 관한 고찰, 복식, 56(6), p. 5.
  6. Muller, G. (1972), The new avant-garde, New York: Praeger Publishers.
  7. Morris, R. (1968. 4), "Anti-form". Artforum, pp. 33- 35.
  8. Morris, R. (1969. 4), "Notes on sculpture, part IV: Beyond object", Artforum, pp. 50-54.
  9. Doss, E. (2002), Twentieth-century American art, Oxford.New York: Oxford University Press, p. 174.
  10. Causey, A. (1998), Sculpture since 1945, Oxford. New York: Oxford University Press, p. 135
  11. Causey, A. (1998), Sculpture since 1945, Oxford. New York: Oxford University Press, p. 135
  12. Morris, R. (1978), "The Present Tense of Space", Art in America, Jan.-Feb., p. 78.
  13. Krauss, R. (1997), 현대 조각의 흐름, 윤난지 역, 서울: 예경, p. 312.
  14. Karmel, P. (1989), Robert Morris: The felt works, New York: Grey Art Gallery & Study Center, p. 8.
  15. Lucie-Smith, E. (2002), 20세기 시각예술, 김금미 역, 서울: 예경, p. 329
  16. Sandler, I. (1997), Art of the postmodern era: From the late 1960s to the early 1990s, Boulder: Westview Press, p. 26
  17. 토목관련용어편찬위원회 편 (1997), 토목용어사전, 서울: 탐구원.
  18. 東京都現代美術館(2010), Hussein Chalayan: from fashion and back, Tokyo: 美術出版社.
  19. Spilker, K. D., & Takeda, S. S. (2007), Breaking the mode, Milano: Skira, p. 17.
  20. Vinken, B. (2005), Fashion zeitgeist, New York: Berg, p. 143.
  21. Spilker, K. D., & Takeda, S. S. (2007), Breaking the mode, Milano: Skira, p. 16.
  22. MoMu (2008), Martin Margiela 20: The exhibition, Antwerp: MoMu, p. 49.
  23. Koda, H. (2010), 100 dresses: The Costume Institute / The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New Haven. London: Yale University Press, p. 217.
  24. English, B. (2011), Japanese fashion designers: The work and influence of Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, London.New York: Berg, p. 130.
  25. Wilson, E., & Ash, J. (1992), Chic thrills: A fashion reader, London: Pandora, p. 4.
  26. Arnold, R. (2001), Fashion, desire and anxiety, New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, p. 25.
  27. Arnold, R. (2001), Fashion, desire and anxiety, New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, p. 60.
  28. Hodge, B. et al. eds. (2006), Skin+bones: Parallel practices in fashion and architecture, London: Thames & Hudson, p. 35
  29. Loschek, I. (1999), The deconstructionists, Icons of fashion: The twentieth century, Buxbaum, G. ed., Munich.London.New York: Prestel, p. 145.
  30. Evans, C. (2009), Fashion at the edge: Spectacle, modernity and deathliness, New Haven.London: Yale University Press, p. 6.
  31. Vinken, B. (2009), Fashion: Art of dying, art of living, Fashion and imagination: About clothes and art, Teunissen, J. & Brand, J. eds., Arnheim: ArtEZ Press, pp. 82-92.
  32. McCracken, G. (1990), Culture and consumption, Bloomington: Indiana University Press, p. 32.
  33. Spilker, K. D., & Takeda, S. S. (2007), Breaking the mode, Milano: Skira, p. 60.
  34. Steele, V. et al. (2010), Japan fashion now, New Haven: Yale University Press, p. 72.
  35. Maison Martin Margiela (2009), Maison Martin Margiela, New York: Rizzoli, p. 192.
  36. Vinken, B. (2009), Fashion: Art of dying, art of living, Fashion and imagination: About clothes and art, Teunissen, J. & Brand, J. eds., Arnheim: ArtEZ Press, p. 69.
  37. Steele, V. (1998. 4), "Abstraction and the avantgarde", View on Color, p. 29.
  38. Teunissen, J. (2011), Fashion and art, Art & fashion: Between skin and clothing, Bruderlin, M., & Lutgens, A. eds., Bielefeld: Kerber Art, p. 109.
  39. Spilker, K. D., & Takeda, S. S. (2007), Breaking the mode, Milano: Skira, p. 94.
  40. Fukai, A. et al. (2002), Fashion: A history from the 18th to the 20th century, Koln: Taschen, p. 514.
  41. Penn, I. (1999), Irving Penn regards the work of Issey Miyake, Boston.New York.London: Bulfinch Press.
  42. Cocks, J. (1986. 1. 27), "A Change of Clothes- Designer Issey Miyake Shapes New Forms into Fashion for Tomorrow", Time, p. 41.

Cited by

  1. Influence of Anti-Form in Contemporary Fashion - Focusing on Physicality - vol.63, pp.4, 2013, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.001
  2. 현대미술과 패션에 나타난 섬유 및 소재의 물질성 vol.64, pp.5, 2013, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2014.64.5.050