• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.8 no.5
• /
• pp.629-637
• /
• 2000

This paper focuses on the development of a fashion design educational program that will foster the talent and aesthetic consciousness of fashion design students. The goal of progressive educational methods with cutting edge technology is to elevate educational efficiency, and ultimately rear creative designers. To fulfill its objective, this paper presents a courseware program on fashion design education utilizing hyper media that include animation, photographs, pictures, sounds and characters. By the utilization of such comprehensive source of information media, a hypermedia courseware was developed for elementary education in fashion design with the following conclusions : 1. The program enables the students to customize their fashion design education. The students of fashion design education programs are able to choose and adjust their own programs to suit their requirements and intellectual level. 2. The program effectively motivates. Much like a constant sequence of various images on a screen that can provoke profound heart-felt emotions and inspire creativity, the program can stimulate and motivate the students. 3. The program provides a consistent education. To advance the overall quality of fashion design education, the problem of dissonance in educational content should be resolved and possible individual errors in delivery rectified. The present program will solve such problems, and establish coherent standards that will withstand the test of time regardless of time or place. 4. The program is cost effective. Since the present program frees the teacher from the time consuming drudgery of preparing various texts and lesson plans, have the materials delivered and handled, it reduces the time and cost previously required. 5. The program has the capability to be upgraded. The accumulated know-how of teachers and the total experience of the program can be linked with other programs for limitless expansion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.2
• /
• pp.105-124
• /
• 2015

This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the $pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}-porter$ for the first time among the designer brands, and also contributed to the development of modern women's fashion. Literature survey on related books and papers was performed to study the Saint Laurent House. Then, fashion collection photos of the house from 1962 SS to 2014 SS were collected to analyze and compare the features of the designs. The photos were collected from related books, fashion magazines and internet sites. The results are as follows: The features of Yves Saint Laurent's early designs were contemporarily sensational with their couture tradition. His representative designs including Le Smoking, Pea Coat, Loose Fit Blouse, Safari Look, Jumpsuit, Ethnic Look and Art Look became the signature looks of the Saint Laurent House. His designs expressed the liberation of sex, multi-cultural sensitivity and the fusion of art and fashion. His successor, chief designer Tom Ford designed with strong sensitivity of his own. He dealt with Yves Saint Laurent's design themes and signature looks in sensual as well as trendy and sophisticated way. Stefano Pilati showed the Parisienne chic and elegance. He re-made the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent with his own design style using new materials or cutting technique. Hedi Slimane reinterpreted the signature looks of the house with his rock' n roll mood for young, modern women while reflecting the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent's early stage. In conclusion, the design identity of Saint Laurent House is not just a fixed one. By the subsequent chief designers, the signature items and design spirit of Yves Saint Laurent have been succeeded, reintroduced or changed to be trendy and to reflect the designers' design sensitivity. All of these make and maintain the design identity of the fashion house.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.8
• /
• pp.67-82
• /
• 2014

This research aims to explicate how we reveal our identity and emphasize beauty in our passion for beauty. It also attempts to find out our sense of beauty in exaggeration of visual expressions. The purpose is to represent how the contemporary knit fashion is various and exaggerated in our modern fashion world, and also to give the direction of new knitwear designs through the visual analysis of exaggerated knit fashion. Literature research was done by studying reference books and magazines, leading papers and based on a dissertation thesis. This study collected 787 designer's works published in the world's big Four collections from the 2000 S/S to 2011 S/S, in 23 seasons during 12 years. In answer to 9 experts about the criteria of classification, 520 works were chosen and analyzed according to the standard of exaggerated knitwear. The result of the study is the followings: The type of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion was classified in three categories; Enlarge exaggeration, reduce exaggeration and transform exaggeration. As a sub-category, enlarge exaggeration was classified into three categories; Volume expansion and the expansion by the material, gauge and larger composition application expansion. Reduce exaggeration appeared as mini-reduction, skinny-reduction and transform exaggeration was respectively classified into deformation of the shape and patterns. The characteristics of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion appeared as the new formative sense. In terms of fuller sense and surface, using various materials, gauge, changes in the composition represented challenges for textiles. The exaggerated contemporary knitwear expressed sex appeal using tight-fitting effect. Contemporary knit fashion simplified the design by taking advantage of the strong elastic attributes. It showed the beauty of women, expressed variability and limitless knit characteristics beyond the conventional thinking. In addition, it has been well represented as a form of freedom, amusement and diversity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.2
• /
• pp.27-38
• /
• 2008

In the 21st century, the development of technology overturned the paradigm of the entire society and culture, and the term 'high-tech' became generally accepted around the world by the momentous advances of technology. The purpose of this study is to define the concept of high-tech fashion by clarifying the characteristics of high-tech fashion, and to propose the proper approach toward the coming fashion. Hussein Chalayan shows the experimental and futuristic designs based on the cultural context of architecture and sculpture. Moreover, the scope of this study has been limited into Hussein Chalayan's recent works after the year 2000 up to 2007. High-tech architecture has been, in some ways, a response to pow technology a new aesthetic in contrast with standard modern architecture. High-tech architecture aimed to achieve a new industrial aesthetic, spurred on by the renewed faith in the progression of technology. However, no matter how prominent the industrial look appeared, the functional element of modern architecture has been very much retained. The characteristics of high-tech architecture that had been extracted by analyzing the antecedent studies were: technocism, transformability, and dynamism. Furthermore, the characteristics of high-tech fashion has been explained based on the characteristics of high-tech architecture. First, technocism is expressed either by the new technologized materials, and advanced digital technology. Second, transformability is expressed in the transformable clothing, which performs various functions. Third, dynamism is displayed in dynamic forms influenced by the technology of engineering. High-tech will be the dominant influence in fashion, and the designers will be enamored with the technologies of the new millenium. Architecture and fashion share the characteristics of high-tech, and their common cultural features is confirmed again.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.9 no.5
• /
• pp.77-95
• /
• 2005

This study was for applying web based street fashion design analysis system(web-SFAS), which was designed in preceding research and realized, to a practical use. Web-SFAS was developed to analyze data fast, accurately, conveniently, and to provide them to related fields by using Information Technology (IT) in fashion design industry. By inputting, sorting and analyzing actual image data into this system, it purposes to check if it needs to be corrected and to verify its operation and application. This study was collected in 2004 s/s 177 points image data and survey results input to the system This system analyzed the results as follow ; First, in all four areas of S/S, many people wear soft materials and plain T-shirts on top and tough material and plain jeans on the bottom. Second, In the case of dresses, in many areas people wear tough fabric plain A-line, one-piece dresses but in Hapsung-dong, many people wear geometrical figures. Third, fashion image, most people wear a sportive casual style with semi casual in a close second. Therefore, web-SFAS can be useful system analyzing for the trendy apparel type, design, material, color, image and variable in demography through street fashion image data.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.45-57
• /
• 2022

This study aims to analyze the macramé technique used in costume design based on the cases from 2011 to 2020, when the macramé technique became popular. The research data are the results of analyzing the materials, clothing items, and structural combination of macramé knots by season, year, and collection from 2011 S/S to 2020 F/W, focusing on the four major fashion collections New York, Paris, London, and Milan. Macramé appeared often in the S/S season, and in the 2019 and 2020 S/S seasons, macramé was identified as a keyword for fashion trends based on its frequent usage. Overhand knots were used the most for the types of macramé knots used in costumes, and overhand knots were also used the most in the S/S season and in the New York, Paris, and Milan collections. Rope was the most frequently used material for macramé knots, and it was confirmed that it appeared frequently in 2011 and 2019, and ropes were also used often in the London, Milan, and Paris collections. One-piece appeared the most in the S/S season and F/W season as costume items. In addition, the costumes used as layers in the S/S season appeared most often, and in 2019 and 2020, the layered combination appeared most frequently in London and New York collections. It is judged that macramé appears repeatedly in the S/S season depending on the type of knot and is used as a layered look, making it a decorative element rather than a practical element. This study is expected to help develop modern fashion design by drawing attention to the value of the macramé technique expressed as handcrafted work.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.31 no.1
• /
• pp.91-106
• /
• 2023

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity-viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum-is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017-fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.181-188
• /
• 2005

This study attempted to investigate the plastic characteristics of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion in the cyber punk movies in order to inquire into how the influence of the cyber punk taking the lead in the spiritual culture and way of life of the humankind in the 21th century would be expressed in fashion. For this purpose, it sought to analyze the beauty of new fashion creating the cyber environment and identify its contemporary meaning. An attempt was made to investigate the image of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies. As a result, the following findings were obtained: First, the image of cyber punk fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies was simplicity, which was to express the modest silhouette and details exclusive of decoration. In addition to clean and smooth gloss, it contained the modest image of resistance', not 'revolt' by borrowing the partial motive and image from existing punk fashion. The change of cyber punk fashion into the characteristic of concise, smooth external appearance brought about the restraint of its image and symbolism as well as its plastic characteristic. Second, it was characterized by the Eroticism nature of emphasizing the body line while expressing the future and modest image or exposing the body. Cyber punk fashion expressed the avant-garde image by using materials that gave a mysterious and future feelings, as well as unsymmetrical silhouette, the slit of body-conscious line, coarse cutting, the method of do-constructing and reconstructing the silhouette, the method of applying diverse underwears such as corset, brassiere and the like. Third, cyber punk fashion was marked by the nature of mined sex. It had the masculine image by using the black color containing the image of masculinity and resistance in female clothing and expressing the suit, coat and military looks giving an masculine impression. And it expressed the image of mixed sexes with the masculine image in male clothing by borrowing feminine images such as body-conscious line, widely cut neckline, floral decoration, leggings and the like. Fourth, cyber punk fashion was marked by naturalness. It was expressed as clothing made from silhouette, knit, cotton and the like in the atmosphere expressing love, comfortableness and truth. This contained the image of naturalness, a return to the primitive, that human being wanted to return to their original figure in the future element. The cyber punk movie may contain a dismal, gloomy future image on the whole, which can be overcome, and shows the possibility that it may grow into the alternative culture, not the revolting culture. The movie of 'The Fifth Element' demonstrates the meaning and role that shows the bright future image. It is thought that designers should make efforts for cyber punk fashion to perform its role in changing the gloomy future image into the bright image of society

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2018

This study has its purpose in classifying the ways in which transparent materials appear in clothes creating a sample garment on this basis, and studying the formative characteristics of human body expression through materials. The study methods for this study are: first, related documents and precedent theses were researched. Second, the expression methods of transparent materials shown in the clothes collection were classified through objective research. Transparent refers to the lexical definition of being see-through, and the transparency of materials arises from the chemical components and physical characteristics of its raw materials. Transparent materials have been applied to clothes and expressed in diverse ways, revealing the beauty of the human body. Such expression methods of transparent materials are classified by the 'degree of transparency', 'presence of patterns', and 'range of use'. In clothes, transparent materials are depicted through 'revealing' which exposes the body, 'making seemingly lighter' which makes the body livelier, and 'overlapping' which overlaps the body with the structure and patterns of the material. Furthermore, transparent materials express the human body through having the beholder 'peep' into other parts of the body, 'imagine' areas which are covered by looking at the areas which are exposed, and through 'blurring' the boundaries or the shape of the human body, depending on the degree of transparency. As such, the study of the expression methods of transparent materials and human expression has its importance in that it explores the expression methods of materials and formative characteristics of human body expression through these methods.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.15 no.5
• /
• pp.69-86
• /
• 2011

The objective of this research is to unveil the dynamic changes of the trends in wedding dresses during the 20th Century. The studies were carried out in two forms; firstly by observing the actual wedding dresses worn by people at that time, and secondly by conducting formative comparisons between those dresses with the ones appeared in movies corresponding to that period. Movies provide an invaluable insight into the era's wedding dresses fashion trends since they function as intimate bridges in connection with the time's audience, and the visible imageries accurately reflect the characteristics embedded within that time frame. As there are no precedent studies regarding this topic, this thesis can serve as vital research data for the wedding dress industry. Research data regarding the actual wedding dresses were collected from books and museum web sites. The object of movies were films produced before World War II that contained both the background settings of the 20th Century and wedding dresses, of which photographic imageries were captured. Research analysis was then conducted by merging these data with findings from relevant books and internet materials. The results of the thesis are as the following: The 1900s was an extension of the 19th Century's popular fashion trend which can be characterized as the S curve silhouettes of the Edwardian period when long trains and long veils symbolized wealth and social power. In the 1910s, high waist silhouettes with soft wrinkles were prevalent as attire suitable for active mobility with practical functionality were highly regarded. During the 1920s, the flapper style became the dominant trend. Hem lines of the skirts were curled in the form of the scallop and laces were the most widely used raw materials. By the 1930s, wedding dresses that reinterpreted the glamorous sheath lines, practical two piece styles, and retro-styles became predominant. The 1940s saw the advent of ready-made wedding dresses made of synthesized materials; practical military style suits and casuals sometimes substituted the wedding dresses. And although the wedding dresses in the movies were primarily costumes to express the personalities of the characters, they were also reinterpreted as manifestations of the formative characteristics of each relative period that pursued very distinct and diverse features.