• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.4
• /
• pp.38-51
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to offer data that designers can utilize substantially, by developing creative materials in knit fashion through the analysis relevant to expression characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture, which were shown in knit fashion of contemporary women, as one of methods of pursuing a plan for being able to be appeared creative and unique knit wear. As for a method of this research, studied concept and characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture by preceding researches. And women's knit fashion was selected that is seen to be 3~18 gauge among the world's 4 collections from 2000~2008. The analysis was made with the analytical frame in mixture pattern, and the analytical frame in design element, and item. The results are as follows. The mixture of kidult element and high fashion was shown with characteristic of expressing humor and fun with graffiti, expression like character and cartoon, and fairy-tale fantasy through the exaggerated trifling article. The mixture of grungy element and high fashion was shown with the expression characteristic in the mixture of heterogenous pattern, and in tear, slit without the end treatment due to fraying the end strand in the knit fashion with basic stitch, patch work, fringing and tone-down gray, use of khaki and blue color, and match in opposite color. The mixture of underwear and high fashion was shown the expression characteristic with the emphasis on underwear line like volume up, or with the mixture of details such as pants in diverse lengths, mini skirt, underwear lace, and ribbon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.2
• /
• pp.107-119
• /
• 2008

This study aims to define the concept of the futuristic image in fashion since 2000. In this study, earlier studies of the futuristic images in the fashion are analyzed and it is discovered that the most important characteristics of the futuristic images are the cosmic space and virtual reality. An analysis of actual data of the futuristic images of the fashion since 2000 produces the following conclusions. First, since 2000 the futuristic fashion to convey the image of space tends to be minimalist, taking H or A silhouette and using white, silver, or other vivid colors. Second, since 2000 the image of virtual reality is often expressed in the fashion of futuristic image as female fighters or vampires of the future who mostly wear pants suit or skirts that expose the body line. Materials of advanced technology or shiny leather are often used and dark colors including black are dominant in these images. Third, when the space image is expressed, the androgynous youth is emphasized. However when female fighters or vampires of the future are shown, sexual image of gloomy atmosphere is often stressed. Fourth, the fashion of futuristic image since 2000 takes up the space age look of the 1960s and the techno-cyber look of the 1980s and the 1990s. However their internal meanings are lost and only external forms are repeated. In sum, the current fashion of futuristic image emulates the past look of the fashion which was circulated as futuristic images and may be considered as a result of combination of futuristic image and retrospective image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.8
• /
• pp.1288-1300
• /
• 2006

Glamour in fashion, which stands for attractive physical feature with certain mystique, has been used without accurate analysis thereof. This thesis is purported to provide comprehensive study of glamour in fashion and to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the basis which can be utilized in the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the glamour in fashion, and to conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials. The glamour expressed in the fashion design can be classified into the following six aesthetic values: luxury, excess, masquerade, appropriation, sensuality and decadence. In the modern history, glamour looks in fashion design started out as so-called Blooming Age Glamour Look, dating from the late nineteenth century to the late 1920s, which was represented by luxurious haute couture style of courtesans. Thereafter Golden Age Glamour Look appeared in the movie costumes in the Hollywood from the late 1920s to mid-1950s. Sensuality, decadence and masquerade are the central features. Subsequently, Pop Age Glamour Look appeared with fashion styles of pop stars, which can be characterized by appropriation and excess. In the 1980s and the 1990s, Glamour Renaissance Look appeared as glamour looks which were spread out to people in various classes, which is characterized by luxury and appropriation. Based upon the foregoing historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour derived from Blooming Age Glamour Look, (2) hyperfeminine glamour derived from Golden Age Glamour Look, (3) kitsch glamour derived from Pop Age Glamour Look, and (4) romantic glamour derived from Glamour Renaissance Look.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.9 s.109
• /
• pp.14-23
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to identify the esthetic features of femme fatale character fashions, which are shown in Movie . The feature of evil femineity is the attribute of evil which brings men to ruin by the dangerous, cunning, and cruel trick, and is expressed in black color, red color, and slash fashion. This fashion shows the dark reverse side of women's sexual desire in relation to anxiety, evil, and death. The feature of sensuality evokes physical pleasures or desires, and maximizes the exposure of sexual regions by tightening or loosening women's body. In the fashion expressing this feature, the forms are fit or loose silhouette. and the colors are black and red. and the materials are soft. This fashion seems to deconstruct the past concept of sex consciousness and emphasize the independent and autonomous femineity. The feature of positiveness combines feminine elements with masculine elements in relation to power elements. This feature is expressed in tailored suit and trousers, with few patterns and details, and in black color and gray color. This fashion reflects the aggressive, challenging, and independent femineity, and expresses the potential defense for the weakness and danger of female body. The feature of purity expresses the earnest and truthful mind, and is expressed in the soft and light one-piece dress, the elegant suit, and the pink color and black color fashion. This fashion shows angel-like and reliable womanly beauty, but at the same time shows women's attribute which changes their behavior and thinking every moment, so that this fashion shows women's double-sided attribute which combines women's weakness and violence, or tenacity and conflict.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.1061-1068
• /
• 2007

The study has sought to explore how fashion emerges as a comprehensive tool of dress for increasing its brand appeal and express one's artistic sense and fashion by using everything from make-up to hair to trappings. Therefore, when it comes to fashion trends reflected in collections, the study is designed to improve understanding of make-up as one of the elements of total fashion and to help create diverse ideas in expressing creative and free make-up that can help perfect fashion concept in harmony with all the other elements. The study has pondered upon collection, trends and fashion make-up through literature study, and has gathered image data via the Internet. It also has conducted analysis of Ethnic style reconstructed combining past and the future, East and the West, and futurism style using asymmetrical forms without no defined patterns and hi-tech textures, which emerges as a result of post-modernism. The results of the study are as follows. Ethnic fashion that pursues strange and exotic beauty is characterized by its simple and idyllic images of traditional costume in Asia or primitive clothes in Africa. Make-up represent images of matt and pale skin, tanned yellow, glossy and thickly powered squeaky white skin. Point make-up highlighted eye lines, red chick, small and voluptuous red lips. Hair and accessory seeks diversity combining various ethnic styles together such as oriental, Indian, Islam and Africa. In addition, future-oriented fashion of the 21st century, twists in texture, various kinds of materials and changes in technique help give impressions of freedom and bizarreness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.5
• /
• pp.711-720
• /
• 2003

The purposes of the study were to categorize eroticism expressed in modern fashion and to find out any significant difference in erotic expressions among designer brands and fashion seasons. The research methods was a documentary analysis. The documentary materials were 180 photographs randomly selected from fashion photographs of 3 major designer brand collections, from 1995 S/S to 2000 A/W. The data were analyzed by contents analysis, frequency, crosstabs. Results were as follows; 1) The existence of erotic expressions in modern fashion was found in 107 (59.4%) out of 180 fashion photographs and the eroticism was one of the major themes in the later 1990's fashion. 2) The erotic expression in the modern fashion were categorized into 5 categories exposure, adhesion, transparency, exposure+adhesion, and adhesion+transparency. The major erotic expression was exposure which was followed by adhesion and transparency. 3) The degree of erotic expression were separated into 3 levels-strong, medium, weak. The erotic levels in the modern fashion ranged between medium and weak; medium level 43%, weak 42% and strong 15%. 4) The erotic expression and the degree of erotic expression showed differences according to three designer brands. Chanel brand used less erotic expression than Christian Dior or Givenchy. Christian Dior brand showed the tendency of strongest erotic level while the Chanel brand showed the weakest level. 5) The erotic expression and the degree of erotic expression showed differences according to fashion seasons. Spring and summer seasons used more erotic expression than autumn and winter. In spring and summer seasons, exposure and transparency were methods used more frequently for erotic expressions, while adhesion was stronger themes in autumn and winter seasons.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.5
• /
• pp.481-493
• /
• 2005

Reason for contemporary ethnic-look's remarkable world popularity is viewed as due to counteraction of disordered world conditions such as war, terror, and economic depression. These conditions led people to desire the returning to primitive human society where freedom and peace are preserved. The background of ethnic look emergence is influences of post-modernism, eastern and western culture hybrid, and ecology. This study will mainly focus on the analysis of present ethnic fashion trend and, with following to this, their images will be analyzed and categorized. The result of ethnic trend, especially that of Asian's and African's, from 2000 to 2005 is like this: representative Asian ethnic fashion tendency is focusing on Japanese and Chinese. In Japanese style, oversized silhouette was derived by Kimono and wide belt was appeared by influence of Kimono's Obi. Chinese ethic style are analyzed as adapting feministic silhouette and details from Chinese traditional clothes, Chipao. Additionally, in some of the Chinese ethnic-look, there are mixtures with Japanese, North American, and African's images. Mixing with pop images and ancient ones are also emerged. In the African ethnic look, people used colorful cloth and new materials which is considered as integration of primitives and modern science. From the study, it is possible to conclude that current modern ethnic fashion can be defined as blends with one country's image to the other, mixture with new technology, and acceptance to the multi-national folk fashion. These trends are widely revealed and extended in the world fashion. In the following result of the analysis, there were four outstanding images lying underneath in the present ethnic-look. That is eclectic, traditional, natural, and mysterious images.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.836-850
• /
• 2011

The modern fashion photograph is interpreted as diverse versions via individual perspectives and thus induces meaning as individuals compose diverse worlds. The researcher perceived the act of reading the significance of the modern fashion photograph from the aspect of the diverse worlds that the receivers comprise, and the researcher sought to highlight this with the ways of worldmaking, as in Nelson Goodman's concept of irrealism. This study sought the transitional structure of the significance of fashion photographs through the irrealism of Goodman and theoretically considered the way in which the worldmaking was organized. The study collected fashion photos shown in fashion magazines and fashion brand catalogs from 2005 to 2010 for a study of the precedent theories and a survey of photographic materials to select characteristics based on Goodman's Ways of Worldmaking. Goodman suggested the five ways of composition and decomposition, deformation, weighting, deletion and supplementation, and ordering as the ways of worldmaking. The composition and decomposition way leads to habit and perpetuation due to existing concepts or intimateness. It can also be considered that the composition and the decomposition way occur coincidentally with other ways due to the previous worlds in which users connote during the process through which the fashion photos were composed and decomposed, deformed, weighted, and ordered. Therefore, this study researched the four ways of composition and decomposition, deformation, weighting, and ordering by integrating them into fashion photos based on the five types of ways reviewed through a theoretical consideration.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.4
• /
• pp.32-45
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is, to renew understanding the aesthetic value of a ruff collar and to expand the border of creation in designing as the source of inspiration being applied to an retro style by inquiring various ruff collars re-illuminated in the present-day fashion trend. The ruff collar investigated through the above historical contemplation became the source of inspirations in the current retro trend and was variously modified in modern fashion. In the 1980s, we can find a dignified and feminine image in graceful and exquisite suits or dresses. Especially, the spanish round ruff of the 2st period appeared on works by a lot of designers. From the application by designers like John Galliano in the latter half of the 80s, we can be well aware that the meaning of decoration was newly altered. In the 1990s, the ruff collar was shown in various fashion style, but it was what was reborn as a factor of modern fashion through a liberal compromise and harmony. Various style was shown from exaggeratedly swelling one to smaller one, which were more diversely applied than that of the 80s. A Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar were also displayed being fitted to a modern sense by Vivienne Westwood and Louis F raud. A ruff in the 2000s was settled as a factor of modern fashion, exposing on works of designers more often than in the 1980s and 90s. The spanish round ruff appeared on garments, while a Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar went out of sight. A new form of the ruff was regenerated by extreme magnification and simplification, and several designers like Issey Miyake and Alexander Mcqueen brought forward a new way in materials and technical skills. According to this research, a ruff collar developed as a fashion factor which characterizes a certain period of time, reflecting the aesthetical sense of Renaissance and turning into various and distinct forms. Afterwards, it exerted influence on modern fashion. This is offering the source of inspiration to contemporary designers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.45 no.1
• /
• pp.136-154
• /
• 2021

'Slow fashion' has become a hot issue in the fashion world as fast fashion has caused environmental and ethical problems. This study synthesized the characteristics of slow fashion from preceding studies and organized them into four characteristics (craftsmanship, nature-friendly attitude, localism, and pursuit of exclusive value). This study compared designers, John Alexander Skelton and Geoffrey B. Small with four characteristics. First, both designers sought craftsmanship based on tailoring, but Skelton focused on the eco-friendliness of materials, and Small emphasized the development of high-quality fabrics. Second, we found a nature-friendly attitude in both designers, but unlike Skelton, which maintains nature-friendliness in the process of clothing production, Small showed this characteristic through presentations. Third, both designers revealed localism through their affection for the fabrics and culture of each country. Moreover, Small extended its meaning to respect minority tastes. Finally, both designers pursued exclusive values through collections under the themes of class problem, and gender conflicts. However, Skelton melted these topics into British culture and revealed them indirectly versus Small who showed sensitive topics directly in the collections. This study will provide the foundation for analyzing designers through the characteristics of slow fashion, and suggests directions that slow fashion designers should move towards.