• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.55-65
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• 2010

The present study purposed to compare formative expression between the fashion of the end of 19th century - early 20th century and that of the 21st century which were influenced by art nouveau and art deco. For this purpose, we analyzed contents in literature, Internet, etc.,. According to the results of this study, the formative expression of art nouveau were divided into continuous movement, optical illusion and decorative expression. Continuous movement was used to express fancy and soft images in the end of 19th century, and to express images giving the feeling of speed and tension in the 21st century. Optical illusion was expressed by the movement the thin and soft materials with the body movement and the movement of excessive frills adornment. And in movement produced using thin and soft materials and by the bias cutting method in the 21st century. Decorative expression was expressed as fantasy and decadent image in the end of 19th century and as mild passionate and modern image with color combination in the 21st century. The formative expression of art deco were divided into visual simplicity, contrastive loudness, and functional expression. Visual simplicity was expressed as a boyish image in the early of 20th century, but as a complex expression combining simplicity and femininity in the 21st century. Contrastive loudness was expressed by using colors both in the early of 20th century and 21st century. Functional expression was reinforced through the lightening of design and materials in the early of 20th century, but through using bias cutting high tech materials in the 21st century.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2001

This study was intended to investigate the contemporary meaning of transparent design expressed in contemporary fashion by inquiring into its plasticity expressed in contemporary design and fashion and analyzing the association between them. It used the comparative anesthetic method widely used by H. W lfflin and other scholars in eliciting the differences and similarities in styles. It attempted to investigate the plasticity of transparent design expressed in contemporary design by dividing it into the epidermal, spatial and ideological effects. Contemporary design expressed the epidermal effects such as lightness(nimbleness), smoothness, contrast and stress It expressed the spatial effects such as spatial flexibility through the interpenetration of interior and exterior spaces, expansion of the space and the like. And it expressed ideological effects such as openness, pureness, playfulness and the like. In terms of lightness, contemporary design expressed actual or visual lightness by using transparent materials. In terms of the interpenetration of interior and exterior spaces, it expressed the interpenetration of the interior space into the exterior spaces and vice versa. In terms of spatial expansion, contemporary design expressed the infinite spatial connection by drawing the exterior space into the interior space. Contrast and stress were formed by imposing visual unity on contemporary fashion by using opaque and transparent materials. In terms of openness, contemporary design expressed contemporary people's candor and dependability by making the inside of the building or object look outward. To express pureness, contemporary design used the clear and transparent image by using the glass or translucent materials taking on the pure property. To express playfulness, contemporary made use of the vagueness of the spatial boundary, the locational switching of inner and outer spaces, and interesting external forms occurring when light pass through opaque and transparent materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.111-124
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women´s fashion with the design elements(silhouette, material, color, detail and trimming) of androgynous image which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. 1. The bon silhouette led the market in the first stage of mid 1980. The wool and leather with the masculine image, cotton and soft material with unisex image were used to express the androgynous image. The dark and mono tone with the masculine image were used a lot in color. In women´s fashion the minimalism style with simple image was expressed escaping from the decoration, in which the detail and trimming was not found as in men´s wear. 2. It showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. Women´s wear silhouette with the androgynous image has changed from masculine box silhouette boomed in the first stage to hourglass silhouette and slim silhouette. The wool and leather were used a lot as the materials in the first stage but the usage of the cotton with unisex image and soft texture were getting increased. The main colors were the black and the blue but the usage of the white and the red were on the increase showing the range of the use was extending. In the meantime, the detail and trimming were hardly used like in the first stage. 3. In the third stage of the late 1990, the silhouette has changed to slim style. The wool and leather were mainly used as the materials but the cotton and silk were on the increase showing that the materials of the feminine image were used in the women´s fashion with the androgynous image as well as the materials of masculine image. In color, the black and the white of the masculine image were used increasingly by the effect of the minimalism and the usage of the colors were various for the rising frequency of the trend colors usage.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.19-34
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• 1997

The role of fashion image in modern society is being diversified from product planning to consumer satisfaction. In this research, after surveying female college students, the diversified modern fashion image was patterned. On the analogy of the relationship between these patterned image and design factors, the following conclusion was obtained. 1. The most popular styles are jacket and pants suits, three-piece outfits, tight mini-skirts and X-silhouette. Little decoration is used in general. simplicity is shown as trend by utility fabrics in single color-black, brown, beige and blue-with no pattern. Various materials such as wool, cotton, wool or cotton blended with other materials, silk, satin, knit, lace, vinyl and leather are used. 2. Fashion image is divided into four factors; factors that show fad, dignity, activity and simplicity. 3. Factors that show fad; style of tops, material of bottoms and length of bottoms reflect fad. blousons, three-piece outfits, pants rather than skirts, X-silhouette and mini-skirts are prevailing. Vinyl, leather, knit, lace and satin are the materials well used. 4. Factors that show dignity; Style and material of tops, the way of top and bottom pieces are matched and length of bottom or pieces reveal the characteristics. Jackets, blouses, half-coats and one-piece outfits rather than two-pieces are popular. Tight skirts in natural or midi length or pleated skirts are common. Wool, wool blended with other materials, leather and X-silhouette are design factors that reveal dignity well. 5. Design factors that show active image; Straight pants, three-piece outfits, T-shirts, shirt -blouses, vests, and blausons are popular. Knit and lace are used for tops, leather and vinyl are used for bottom pieces and cotton is widely used. Y- or H-silhouette are used to show active image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.203-213
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• 2007

This study is on the esthetic characteristics of Christian Lacroix's haute couture works. The materials for the study are the precedent studies, the related literature, and the photographs of the works and the interview articles in fashion journal at home and abroad. The result of this study were finds three esthetic characteristics in his works and fashion philosophy; historic, ethnic, and hybrid sense. First, the historic sense, Christian Lacroix's biggest characteristic, is influenced by his major studies, but is not a revival from the past itself but a new characteristic based on borrowing and reinterpreting the images created by introducing and compromising the historic elements. Second, the ethnic sense is influenced by the growing background in his childhood and can be characterized as compromise among the multi-national design features. It is certified by the contrasting images, styles, expressions, materials, ornament elements, and so forth with the worldwide ethnic senses centered by the southern France and Spain. Third, the hybrid sense as the essential characteristic shows the uniqueness in his design by not only combining the modern materials, technologies, and futuristic emotion but also liberally compromising and associating the emotions based on a mixture among the follows; the historic representative styles, the foreign materials, the diversity between the Eastern and Western culture, and all elements, details, trimmings In the fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.231-242
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• 2003

This study was aimed at analyzing how the dualism of hippie style in the modern retro-fashion, namely, the neo hippie style and the hippie chic style were expressed. For this study, domestic & foreign fashion magazines, preceding theses, literatures, an encyclopedia, and Internet sites were reviewed. The results of this study could be summarized as follows; 1. Silhouette : The neo hippie style was expressed in slim and long silhouette to show the natural beauty. The hippie chic style was expressed in various silhouettes depending on designer's tastes. 2. Color : The neo hippie style was expressed in strong color and analogous color coordination to show richness of human nature. The hippie chic style was expressed in psychedelic color, multi-color, and fluorescent color to show an unconventional and a future oriented idea. 3. Material . The neo hippie style used such soft, thin, and flexible materials as chiffon, satin, silk, knit, etc. to show the natural beauty The hippie chic style used expensive and luxurious materials, high-technological materials, harmony of different materials, etc. 4. Pattern . In the neo hippie style, it was generally used various patterns including plant, animal, insect. In the hippie chic style, it was widely used the natural pattern as well as the ethnic pattern. The neo hippie style was characterized by the natural beauty, purity, elegance as style symbolizing the social problem, on the other hand, the hippie chic style was characterized by designer's identity suggesting an idea of new style rather than a symbol of the social problem.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.11-25
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to investigate how the young fashion which maintains a large share of fashion market emerged in the 1960s, its characteristics and what its influences on the contemporary fashion industry are. In particular, I am going to consider the significance of the young fashion by looking at the formation of niche market, the emergence of mass market for fashion, the expansion of aesthetic categories. we will be able to see the 60s young fashion of the young generation who emerged as new consumers in mass consumer culture exerted important influences on the contemporary fashion industry. First, the counterculture of young generation who rebeled against the uniformity of mass production helped the formation of new niche market. Second, the young fashion which pursued the lower prices for fashion made a big contribution to the popularization of fashion. The young generations tendency to demand new things and rapid change coincided with that of inexpensive popular fashion people can buy and change more easily than expensive high fashion. Lastly, the playful tendency of the young fashion expanded the aesthetic boundaries of the clothing, going beyond the uniformity of modernism with the emergency of diverse fashion materials - fabric and textiles - enable by technological development and the miniaturization of forms as revealed in mini skirt.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.155-163
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• 2006

The study was conducted to investigate the aesthetic characteristics expressed on the Prada Sports Fashion which has been strongly affected to fashion trend of domestic sports wear since the mid of 1990th, and to contribute to make domestic sports brand be competitive. The qualitative method using the materials such as fashion magazines and journals, information from the domestic fashion research center and internet, relating fashion books and journals etc, was used for the study. The results were as follows: First, use of heterogeneous design factors or coexistence of the past and the present were expressed as post-modernism effect. Second, strong moderation through the mimalism which has been dominated world fashion since 1990th was expressed. Third, high function including technology has been expressed. These aesthetic characteristics will be helpful for us to prospect 21c sports fashion which will be activated increasingly according to well-being life style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.123-136
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• 2004

The purpose of this the end of 20th century fashion about various phenomenon of distopia. This study have the analysis and consideration through the elements and peculiarity of distopia. This study give us the various figures of distopia st fashion as well as the common features of distopia. The study method refers to sundry records, thesis, fashion magazine, publication, the collection works and internet. It is as follows. 'Distopia' prefix to dis of Utopia and means unknown future. Distopia trends towards future negatively. The end of 20th century, it is well brought out various cultures. Movie, novel and pop culture have effect on end of the 20th fashion with a view of distopia. It is the fear and uncertainty of the future. The characters of distopia through the works are divided into formative characteristics and aesthetics meaning. The future fashion of distopia expression mixed and various cultural life, also the mixed of utopia and distopia fashion. Distopia stimulates the designers to the new expression and expose their new areas.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.171-183
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• 2012

This research attempted to examine whether there were differences in preference for the shoes according to fashion lifestyle and age by conducting survey on 200 women of 20s and 40s among the adult women who were expected to have interest in not only functionality but also aesthetic aspects of shoes. First, the results of comparing the preferences according to fashion lifestyles showed that those who pursued practical group preferred loafer, strap shoes, and baggy boots, indicating that they preferred low and comfortable shape of shoes which are easy to put on/take off and easy to coordinate with any clothes. Those who pursued personality group and ostentation group were more sensitive to fashion than practical group preferred high heel shoes, which could express their own personality, it would be great to have various designs by reflecting the trendy materials and details focusing on pumps, strap and walker boots which can express individuality and supplement the body shape and height as matching to the trendy clothes. Second, as women in 20s have tendency to show more preference of a certain trendy shoes shape than women in 40s, the shoes designs for 20s should focus on certain types of shoes preferred by them by varying materials and details, rather than having various designs. However, it would be great to show various designs for the shoes for 40s. Most of the 20s are the individual and complex fashion-seeking types while the 40s have the most of practical fashion-seeking type and the least of individual fashion-seeking type.