• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.211-223
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• 1992

The results of the researches in the wig and the Boyo are as follows. The wig is to be classified into Bu, Pyun, Chah, Cheh, and kwik, Bu is an ornamental hairpin used by the empress, and it is decorated with Boyo. Pyun is a wig made of braided hair. Chah is made of Bal which is put together by its lenath, and it was also called Picheh or Pisuck. It is made, one by one, of hair of the convicts and the low-class people. 초도 has a meaning of toupee, and it is used to look beautiful with its thick black hair. Kwik is a wig made of hair as if it is weaved out of thread, and it is rounded with a wire. In ancient times, it was also called chah, Pi, or Pi People wore different wigs according to their class and the use, in order of Bu, Pyun, and Chah. There are remains of the Han Dynasty. Boyo, just like the wig, was originally a custom of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the later Han Dynasty. It is also called Cho Song and has a different meaning from the Boyo attached to a crown before the Han Dynasty. It became much more beautiful in the Which in period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Tang Dynasty, which is due to the influence by the customs of the western Ho tribe. The name of hairstyling using wigs in each period, and things such as hair, black thread, lignum, and paper were used as materials. Since the wig had differed according to the disparity in social standing it was prohibited to the general public, but it became in style later on. Wig also becomes popular in central Asia and gained its properity in the Tang Dynasty which is greatly influenced by the western countries. It is said in the records that the kobal Style had been exceedingly in fashion from the Ju to the Chung Dynasty, and the remains of the Han and Song Dynasty were found. times, it was also called chah, Pr, or period, and things such as hair, black thread, lignum, and paper were used as materials. Since the wig had differed according to the disparity in social standing, it was prohibited to the general public, but it became in style later on. Wig also becomes popular in central Asia and gained its prosperity in the Tang Dynasty which is greatly influenced by the western countries. It is said in the records that the kobal Style had been exceedingly in fashion from the Ju to the Chung Dynasty, and the remains of the Han and Song Dynasty were found.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.901-915
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• 2012

This study comparatively analyzes the characteristics, changes, and differences in class-based costume typology according to a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. The methods and contents are as follow. First, the scope of common people is grasped according to the historical background and a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. Second, through considering a prior research on analyzing the data of ancient documents on the economy of clothing, it classifies common people into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute. It then examines diachronic evolution, and class-based synchronic difference in the consumption of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people's costumes in France. Third, it analyzes the appearance frequency by period according to type of common people's costumes, which were shown in pictorial materials with 283 sheets of engravings and 54 pieces of paintings; in addition, it reconstructs the succession and expansion in typology. It grasps differences and changes in morphology by class, space, and period of typology for common people's costumes. Common people's consumption of costumes was understood to have grown in qualitative aspects as well as a rise in the whole clothing demand. A class-based structure formed and indicated that a fashion cycle existed. As a result of analyzing common people's clothes (shown in pictorial materials of the $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century) 41 items were grasped by gender and according to costume kind. Typology in common people's costumes (classified into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute) showed a change by period. A change in typical costume typology was accepted more by the bourgeoisie than by urban and rural common people, and was accepted more by rural communities than by urban populations. Thus, a difference was formed through an expansion with a temporal difference that depended on class and space.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.538-544
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• 2007

We usually try to accomodate ourselves to our nature surroundings interacting with nature. There fore I've decided to apply nature materials, esp. the pine to Hair Art as a way of expressing our feelings from Nature. 'Hair Art' is a follow-up study based on the various artistic point of view. There has been various works of 'Hair Art' with nature materials. However, it is rare to see a work of 'Hair Art' with the pine. That's why I've decided to study more about this. This study is a new experiment in 'Hair Art' against a conventional idea "Hair Art values practicability." Therefore, the primary goal of this study is to do much for the cause of learning in 'Hair Art' and encourages some development of 'Hair Art' industry. I've researched an image of a pine tree in art of Joseon Dynasty and contemporary art. Then I've tried to apply the image to a work of 'Hair Art'. First of all, in a view of expression technique for the symbolism of the pine, the artists in Joseon Dynasty drew pictures of a pine tree with a paintbrush but the modern artists make a new attempt from the thought of Modernism. We can find it in some photos. Next, to express traditional oriental idea such as 'unconventional and elegance', comtemporary artists chose the symbolism of the pine tree as an object of their works like pen and ink sketches from the thought of Modernism. Third, in a fusion style picture which contains features of both oriental paintings and western paintings and in a sexualism style picture that depicts a harmony of a male and a female as a shape of a pine, we can find colorful images of a pine tree and Their figurative beauty in art. Those are another symbols of the pine. In conclusion, the implication of the pine tree still hasn't changed even there are differences of drawings of pine tree in the past and the present. I've tried to combine these symbolic ideas of the pine with 'Hair Art' and made 5 hair styles. Throughout the process of researching this topic which is 'The Study of Hair Art Using The Symbolism of The Pine', I've realized that pine trees make it possible to express intrinsic tough spirit of human being and abundance in color and figurative beauty in art. I hope this can contribute to the field of 'Hair Art' and would become an important educational resource for further study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.290-296
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• 2021

The effect of draw ratio (8, 10, 12, 14 times) and additive CaCO₃ content (0, 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, and 3.0 wt%) on the properties of high-performance PE monofilament was investigated in this study. As the draw ratio increased (8-14 times), the melting enthalpy (ΔHf), crystallinity, specific gravity, and tensile strength increased significantly. However, the draw ratio had little effect on the melting temperature (Tm) and crystallization temperature (Tc). The seawater fastness (stain and fade) of the hydrophobic PE monofilament prepared in this study showed an excellent grade of 4-5 in all draw ratios. To investigate the effect of the additive CaCO₃ content on the properties of high-performance PE monofilament, the draw ratio was fixed at 14 times. It was found that the tensile strength of the PE monofilament sample containing 0.5 wt% of CaCO₃ was much greater compared to the sample without CaCO₃, but the elongation of the sample containing 0.5 wt% of CaCO₃ was much less than the sample with 0 wt% CaCO₃. However, in the case of the sample containing more than 0.5 wt% CaCO₃, the tensile strength slightly decreased and the elongation slightly increased as the CaCO₃ content increased. The seawater fastness (stain and fade) of the hydrophobic PE monofilament showed excellent grades of 4-5, regardless of the amount of additives. From the above results, it was found that the maximum draw ratio of 14 times with an additive of 0.5 wt% CaCO₃ are the optimal conditions for manufacturing high-performance marine fusion materials with various fineness (denier) with high strength and low elongation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.117-142
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• 1997

This study is on perfume case that is one of a great number of ornaments which was designed by out ancestors. We had developed the tradition and the history of perfume case bag fan-weight etc. These have the same function as the present perfume. case. There were basket-shaped perfume cases which were the smellest one among the personal girdle ornaments in the silla era. The various patterned perfume case were made of gold metal coral platinum or green jadeite etc. In the single-crop trinkets a embroidered perfume bag with the gold and silver thread whose forms perfectly match their functions appeared during the Yi Dynasty. There was also a perfume bag which was one of the daily necessities. A precious "jul perfume" was carried by noble women. A fan-weight perfume bag was attached to the fan to emphasize the intrinsic beauty of utility and function. It is necessary to know the function of prefume case. As perfume case is weared on the clothes it was given more decorative effects as well as the function of medicinal amulet with a sweet smell. Therefore it is very important for us to study perfume case that has various function as an ornament. So The purpose of this study is to investigate the practical and decorative side of perfume case with the general examines of perfume finding how to practice use through our life. The results were as follows; 1. The first use of perfume is perfume through smoke which is for ceremony of religion It removes human body odor by degrees and spreads a sweet odor. Also the materials for making perfume of early age is aromatic plants which will be used flour-made flowers stems. As the materials for making perfume use is increasing today we can invent alcohol perfume today 2. Our country the custom of perfume-used is wide. Among them men's perfume-used was very special phenomenon. For example men were wearing perfume bag in the Silla era. Because perfume represented wealth and noble in those days. They shew off social position personality through perfume-used. 3. One of early religion ceremony article there was the perfume. And perfume case was means for containing perfume. Gradually the perfume case was used widly as increasing needs of perfume in human life. 4. In the middle period of 'Koryo' Dynasty perfume cases had a close relationship with clothes but after Mongolian has been attacked 'Koryo' there were changes in wearing clothes therefore the position of perfume cases were transfered to coat string that was the origin of decoration style that they began. That is to say the perfume case has been influenced the position of perfume case shapes with changing of fashion. 5. The perfume case has been made manifest various function as an ornament. In the practical side First medical-perfume in perfume case has been played an important role in first-aid medicine in critical condition. Second it was amulet for self protection. That is the shape pattern color materials perfume of the perfume case was represented the amuletive nature. Third it was used as substitute article of perfume. Modern women use liquid-perfume as our ancestors used perfume case bag or jul perfume As started above. Also In the decorative side the perfume case has a beautiful formative arts by itself as well as a close relationship with clothes. That well as a close relationship with clothes. That is when the perfume case is worn on the clothes costume is showed aesthetices. That is the materials shapes color pattern of the perfume case we can see the visual beauty also the materials colors embroidered pattern knots tassel that are used the perfume case are increased the decorative beauty of costume. Sixth the symbol in pattern of the pattern case is shown ancetor's wealth and rank health longevity immortality many-born-boy in those days. Today the perfume case is not used with changing of costume by degrees, Accordingly I hope that the result of this study is an influened in devlopment of the perfume case design with matching the modern fashion.

• Journal of Intelligence and Information Systems
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.1-19
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• 2018

Large amount of data is now available for research and business sectors to extract knowledge from it. This data can be in the form of unstructured data such as audio, text, and image data and can be analyzed by deep learning methodology. Deep learning is now widely used for various estimation, classification, and prediction problems. Especially, fashion business adopts deep learning techniques for apparel recognition, apparel search and retrieval engine, and automatic product recommendation. The core model of these applications is the image classification using Convolutional Neural Networks (CNN). CNN is made up of neurons which learn parameters such as weights while inputs come through and reach outputs. CNN has layer structure which is best suited for image classification as it is comprised of convolutional layer for generating feature maps, pooling layer for reducing the dimensionality of feature maps, and fully-connected layer for classifying the extracted features. However, most of the classification models have been trained using online product image, which is taken under controlled situation such as apparel image itself or professional model wearing apparel. This image may not be an effective way to train the classification model considering the situation when one might want to classify street fashion image or walking image, which is taken in uncontrolled situation and involves people's movement and unexpected pose. Therefore, we propose to train the model with runway apparel image dataset which captures mobility. This will allow the classification model to be trained with far more variable data and enhance the adaptation with diverse query image. To achieve both convergence and generalization of the model, we apply Transfer Learning on our training network. As Transfer Learning in CNN is composed of pre-training and fine-tuning stages, we divide the training step into two. First, we pre-train our architecture with large-scale dataset, ImageNet dataset, which consists of 1.2 million images with 1000 categories including animals, plants, activities, materials, instrumentations, scenes, and foods. We use GoogLeNet for our main architecture as it has achieved great accuracy with efficiency in ImageNet Large Scale Visual Recognition Challenge (ILSVRC). Second, we fine-tune the network with our own runway image dataset. For the runway image dataset, we could not find any previously and publicly made dataset, so we collect the dataset from Google Image Search attaining 2426 images of 32 major fashion brands including Anna Molinari, Balenciaga, Balmain, Brioni, Burberry, Celine, Chanel, Chloe, Christian Dior, Cividini, Dolce and Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Ermenegildo, Fendi, Giuliana Teso, Gucci, Issey Miyake, Kenzo, Leonard, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Max Mara, Missoni, Moschino, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Cavalli, Sonia Rykiel, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Versace, and Yve Saint Laurent. We perform 10-folded experiments to consider the random generation of training data, and our proposed model has achieved accuracy of 67.2% on final test. Our research suggests several advantages over previous related studies as to our best knowledge, there haven't been any previous studies which trained the network for apparel image classification based on runway image dataset. We suggest the idea of training model with image capturing all the possible postures, which is denoted as mobility, by using our own runway apparel image dataset. Moreover, by applying Transfer Learning and using checkpoint and parameters provided by Tensorflow Slim, we could save time spent on training the classification model as taking 6 minutes per experiment to train the classifier. This model can be used in many business applications where the query image can be runway image, product image, or street fashion image. To be specific, runway query image can be used for mobile application service during fashion week to facilitate brand search, street style query image can be classified during fashion editorial task to classify and label the brand or style, and website query image can be processed by e-commerce multi-complex service providing item information or recommending similar item.

• Fire Science and Engineering
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.97-103
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• 2014

To ensure adequate protection from the risk of burns, fire fighter's turnout has a composite of more than three components and air gaps between layers of materials. During the flame exposure, radiation and convection heat transfer occurs in the air gap, thus the air gap acts as a thermal resistance with non-linear characteristics. Therefore, in this study, the experiments were performed to identify the effect of various air gap width (0~7 mm) on the thermal protective performance of fire fighter's clothing. The temperatures on each layer and RPP (Radiant Protective Performance, the most effective index representing the thermal protective performance) were measured with various incident radiant heat fluxes. The temperature at the rear surface of the garment decreased and RPP increased with increasing air gap width because the thermal resistance increased. Especially, it could be found that RPP value and air gap width has almost linear relation for the constant incident heat flux conditions. Thus relatively simple RPP predictive equation was suggested for various incident heat flux and air gap conditions.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.179-185
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• 2003

Melatonin (MT) is an indole amide pineal hormone. It has not only very short half-life but also pH-sensitive property. The sustained release dosage form which delivers MT in a circadian fashion over 8 h is clinical value. The purpose of this study is to prepare sugar beads using multiple coating methods and enteric-coated in a sustained release to evaluate in vitro release characteristics in simulated gastric and intestinal fluids. The $Eudragit^{\circledR}$ as a polymer, sustained release membrane, and triethylcitrate (TEC) as a plasticzer were used. Multi-coated melatonin delivery system was composed of sugar, various excipients, $Eudragit^{\circledR}$ and enteric materials (e.g. hydroxy propyl methyl cellulose phthalate, HPMCP), and prepared by fluid bed coater. The dissolution test was carried out using the basket method at a stirring speed of 100 rpm at $37^{\circ}C$ in simulated gastric (pH 1.2) and intestinal fluid (pH 7.4). The released amount of MT was determined by High performance liquid chromatography method. The morhologies of surface and cross section of multi-coated beads were observed by scanning electron microscope. Size of multi-coated sugar beads was ranged over $1000{\sim}1300\;{\mu}m$. The release rate of MT from coated beads was limited in simulated gastric fluid (pH 1.2), but it was sustained in intestinal fluid (pH 7.4) during $3{\sim}8$ hours. The MT beads may provide small-intestine-targeted device for oral delivery. Studies on animal and relative experiment are in process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.145-156
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• 2009

This study proposes the product development through an organic link with multi-faceted analysis on the archetype of traditional costumes culture. In order to find ways to develop cultural products, Jogakbo was selected, and the research result is as following. 1. Analysis on the types of Jogakbo products sold in the market shows that there are not only living, stationary, and fashion items, but also DIY packages. In terms of materials used, most of these Jogakbo products were made of fabric or mixture of different materials. These products displayed similar tendency by reflecting formative characteristics of Jogakbo. 2. This study analyzed the color, surface composition, material, manufacturing, and usage of Jogakbo. The rotor of Jogakbo is mostly composed of mono tone colors or Obangsac(five-element colors). The mono tone colors carries environmentally friendly meaning as it is using the natural color and Obangsac means harmony. Moreover, the surface composition of Jogakbo represents the expansion through connection and its material is also meaningful in that it is recycling. Manufacturing of Jogakbo has educational significance, fortune-wishing characteristics, decorative function, it also gives a gratification of handcraft. The usage of Jogakbo is a multi-(unctional article whose form is determined by an item that is held inside it. 3. Through the analysis on Jogakbo, this study presents the baby wear in relation to the ere-friendliness of colors, brooch sets using the surface composition, dresses using recycling fabric, children's educational instruments with educational significance, as well as multi-functional packages in regards to usage of Jogakbo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.14-22
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• 2007

This study is about the excavated costume representing fundamental "Conservation and Restoration". It's not a report of a specific case, but it is a guideline that contains the costume and textile of museum collection. It is not research based on experiments; however, this paper is basically consists of various reported-documents. Followings are the conclusions of this study 1. These are the factors that we have to know to prevent the causes of fabric's degradation. -Light, -Humidity and temperature, -Microscopic organism, -Insect and rodent animal, -Air pollution, -Ph, -Handling 2. Basic principles of conservation and restoration follows are: -Select the Reversible method, -Represent the easily distinguishable repaired place, -Should be acted by an expert or people with experience, -Before the restoration, accurate and specified records should be completed, -Procedure, treatment method, and materials used should be recorded prior to restoration, -Should be cared minimally, -Be cautious when using the conservation materials, -When caring, make sure nothing is against the principle of aesthetic, historic, and form of preservation 3. The types of restoration are type of straight or curve, type of hole, type of without warp or weft, type of special part damage something like sleeve, collar, type of form that is severely damaged, and type of separated pieces. 4. The method of restoration is sewing, stitching, and the combination of sewing and stitching. 5. The restoration seams are welt seam, plain seam, flat felled seam, french seam etc. And there are kinds of used-sewing, such as, broad stitching, backstitch, half backstitch, basking, hemming, saddle stitching etc.