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A Study on 17th and 18th Century Common People's Costumes in France

17~18세기 프랑스 서민복식 연구

  • Kim, Yang-Hee (Dept. of Fashion Design & Textiles, Inha University) ;
  • Kim, Hyun-Joo (Graduate school in the Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Inha University)
  • 김양희 (인하대학교 의류디자인전공) ;
  • 김현주 (인하대학교 대학원 의류학과)
  • Received : 2011.07.29
  • Accepted : 2012.09.17
  • Published : 2012.09.30

Abstract

This study comparatively analyzes the characteristics, changes, and differences in class-based costume typology according to a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. The methods and contents are as follow. First, the scope of common people is grasped according to the historical background and a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. Second, through considering a prior research on analyzing the data of ancient documents on the economy of clothing, it classifies common people into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute. It then examines diachronic evolution, and class-based synchronic difference in the consumption of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people's costumes in France. Third, it analyzes the appearance frequency by period according to type of common people's costumes, which were shown in pictorial materials with 283 sheets of engravings and 54 pieces of paintings; in addition, it reconstructs the succession and expansion in typology. It grasps differences and changes in morphology by class, space, and period of typology for common people's costumes. Common people's consumption of costumes was understood to have grown in qualitative aspects as well as a rise in the whole clothing demand. A class-based structure formed and indicated that a fashion cycle existed. As a result of analyzing common people's clothes (shown in pictorial materials of the $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century) 41 items were grasped by gender and according to costume kind. Typology in common people's costumes (classified into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute) showed a change by period. A change in typical costume typology was accepted more by the bourgeoisie than by urban and rural common people, and was accepted more by rural communities than by urban populations. Thus, a difference was formed through an expansion with a temporal difference that depended on class and space.

Keywords

References

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Cited by

  1. Study on the System and Evolution of Type of Men's Costume on the Pattern Books of France in the 19th Century - Focusing on Overcoat and Top-exterior-and-interior(outside) - vol.66, pp.8, 2016, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.157