• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.420-430
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• 2007

Noting that there is an increasing trend of the so-called 'neo-single life style' among women these days, this research aims to make a product development for these neo-single women in this era of families of a single member by analyzing their concepts and characteristics. We payed a particular attention to the data from such sources as newspapers, magazines or the articles in the Internet. The essence of our research lies in the analysis of target market, in the suggestions in the brand planning and product development and in the designs of fashion and interior products for them. The result of this research is as follows. First, it turns out that these neo-single women enjoy a kind of multi-mixing code lifestyle rather than showing a preference for a particular brand. For this reason, we have decided to pursue a multi-concept brand fonn as a right direction for brand planning for them. Second, as for a philosophy behind the brands, we suggest a concept of 'small utopia' for neo-single women and express such as new aristocracy, happiness and pleasure. Third, we adopt 'YOU' as the name of the brand as it reflects their various life styles and characteristics. Fourth, as for the product development of F/W in 2007, we have decided on 'Minimal Natural' as it mixes up the concepts of the controlled beauty of sophistication and multi-functional elements and 'Modern Primitive' as it expresses the ethnic elements on modern images having craft factors and modern images. We have performed concrete tasks in creating images, coloring, making fabrics for each theme. Fifth, we have chosen and suggested other products that are suitable for these neo-single women who seek for multi-functional but simple kinds after surveying a wide range of products in magazines or in the Internet.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.125-135
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• 1993

The purposes of this research are firstly to define the characteristics of movement on the costume, secondly to demonstrate that fine art, expecially in relation to kinetic art, has become a good motif in modern costume de-sign, and thirdly to examin the characteristics of movement as shown in modern costume de-sign. For this study, we selected and analyzed some costume designs among those introduced in fashion magazines, which are Collections, Fashion-Preview, Fashion Show, Collezioni, and L'Officiel that have been issued since 1988. As this research is carried out only through the analysis of pictures, it is not ac-companied by a study on material itself. The result of this study is that the ex-pression of movement on modern fashion can be shown in two ways, one is the inclusive and subordinate movement expressed on the cloth-ing according to the motion of body when they are worn, and the other is the movement caused by the very designs of clothing. And the latter can be also divided in two ways, the illusionistic movement and the actual move-ment. The expression of actual movement is made through the emphasis of direction, rhythm, and dimension of the costume. And the illusionistic movement is expressed by the de-sign to which the textile pattern or reflection of light is applied so that the movement is larger than the actual movement. A sense of direction expressed on the cos-tume by the actual movement creates a light rhythm and adds interest to the costume. This reflects a part of psychology of modern men who are not accustomed to the statics. In the rapidly changing society of information our modern men seek after movement even in the statics. It is also true in the clothing and they seem to get a psychological rest through the immediated visual change as shown in fashion design. The simple and cheerful rhythm expressed by the illusionistic movement on the costume is attempted in order to overcome the static tediousness caused by simple design. These elements of movement cause the en-largement of visible range and create another enlarged shape other than the real one, so that they come to remove the dullness and monot-ony in costume design and provoke interest in costume, as if kinetic art reveals the various aspects that transcend the closed area of fine art upon the motif of 'movement'. finally, as this paper deals with the ex-pression of movement as shown in the costume design which prevailed after 1988, it is desir-able hereafter to study more about the fashion since 1950 when kinetic art began in earnest, along with the comparative study on the ex-pression of movement in our Korean designer's and foreign designer's works.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.102-119
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to develop various designs through renewing and changing perception of accessories by examining various and arbitrary Kitsch. For the method of this study, literature review was mainly used for research of formative characteristics in Kitsch fashion. 798 pieces of work from fashion magazines and website with a focus on Milan, Paris, London and New York collections, in the decade of 2000-2010 were collected. The results of this study are as follows. First, the characteristic of exaggeration is classified into two types: the visual exaggeration, which is characterized by psychological expression through excessive images and (2) the collecting exaggeration, which is not simple but a want of large quantities. Second, the characteristic of satire is classified into two types: (1) the imitation-satire, which satirizes messages to societies with creative humor by using easily consumed materials and (2) the resistance-satire, which is destructive and offensive against isolation and desolation of a capitalistic society. Third, the characteristic of amusement is classified into two types: (1) the playful-amusement, which raises a laugh slyly by using clever materials and (2) the childish-amusement, which involves childish imagination and humor-sense because of desire to be a child. Fourth, the characteristic of nostalgia is classified into two types: (1) the romantic character expressing a departure from modern society, which is desolate because of the urbanization process, and (2) the intermediate character recreating an esthetic category by interacting with different and relative elements. Fifth, the characteristic of inappropriateness is expressed through a deliberate mistake, and it denies existing senses of beauty by overturning common sense and creating new senses of beauty, expressions in distortion and modification of stereotype.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.67-86
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• 2011

This study intended to understand overall history of make-up in Korea in an integrated and diachronic context by interpreting women's will and desire to express themselves reflected in the cosmetics culture in each period centering on women's magazine cover, cosmetics advertisement, and articles from 1950 to 1999 and examining women's make-up image and characteristics in each period. A total of 919 women's magazines (Yeonwon (Women's Garden), Woman Sense, Yeoseong Donga (Women's Donga), Jubusaenghwal (Homemaker's Living), Yeoseong Jungang (Women's Jungang)) issued between 1950 and 1999 were examined for the study. Key words of each period were extracted through fashion and beauty related articles and advertisement titles to examine the make-up culture of Korean women and set the standard for the make-up image of Korean women. A total 1,252 pictures were shot for each period and categorized based on the standard for the make-up image of Korean women. Then, the changes in the make-up image of Korean women were examined and identified the characteristics of images along with the change of images in each period. Next, the meaning of each make-up image was examined. This can be interpreted as the expression of values and desire by modern Korean women, especially Korean women in the late 20th century, as well as the consciousness for coping with the changing society.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.23-33
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• 2010

Articles from The New York Times and magazines including Consumer Digest, Journal of Home Economics, Scholastic, Time and Woman's Home Companion were analyzed in this study and focused on the following research questions: How did the social situation influence American women's adoption of pants during World War II? How were the social opinions of women's adoption of pants? How did American women's adoption of pants and the social opinions on women's pants represent the process of change in the definition of femininity during World War II? Women were encouraged to wear pants in work places because many women had to work in defense industries and farms. Women had to wear pants during the winter to keep warm in order to conserve oil, rubber, and other materials. In addition, wearing men's clothes became a fashion trend among college women during this period. However, practicality was often not the primary thing alone to consider in women's fashion. Femininity was still important in women's fashion. There were criticisms over the women's adoption of pants. Regulations against pants were imposed on women, while there were women who wanted to dress like ladies even at defense industries. An abrupt change in women's gender roles and the increased adoption of trousers aroused social ambivalence about the traditional definition of femininity. Even though many women returned to their homes after the war, the social demand of practicality in women's day-time clothes during the war offered women the experience of comfort and practicality in pants. These experiences contributed to paving the way for more women to adopt pants and helped establishing a new definition of femininity after the war.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.21-32
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to establish the idea of sustainable slow design by analyzing literatures and preceding cases, based on the external elements of a design including forms, the methods of expression, materials and colors. This study reviewed the previous literature of books and pictures related to the research for case studies and content analysis. fashion books, magazines, and web-sites published from 2000 to 2005 were analyzed for this research. The sustainable slow design trends in fashion can be summarized as follow. The first is a timeless style which has sustain ability in design independently of the versatile fads and relies on functionality, serving the purpose of design. One of the examples is both clothes designed by Burberry and suits by Chanel. The second is a hand-touch style which the more time for outputs can be positively tolerated, in favor on eco-friendly design through the techniques of manual arts. The third is a renewable design which the combined values of design with reuse and renewal result in recreation of past ecology as shown in the technique of designs by mix & match. The forth is a transformable design which features the multi-purpose and multi-forms, eventually extending the lift cycle of products. As a result of analysis of the four designs above, it can be inferred that the representation of past styles, the mixture of old design with new design, the appropriate combination of conventional fabrics with advanced ones, the ecological trends of sports look was emerging.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.61-76
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• 2023

The purpose of this study was to derive exotic products handled by Bon Marche department store, examine characteristics, and reveal the meaning of exotic taste in the 19th century. The research method is literature research centered on original materials of the time, such as old literature related to department stores, and films, newspapers, magazines, and periodicals as well as books and papers. Commercial catalogs and Agenda-Buvard published by Bon Marché were used as visual materials. Results are as follows. Exotic tastes of products of the Bon Marche department store in the late 19th century showed an oriental style centered on Persia, India, China, and Japan. Products from various regions such as Turkey, Spain, Algeria, Tunisia, England, Italy, and Russia were also accepted. These exotic tastes had the following contributions and meanings. First, they expanded items and product development and activated domestic industry through production of imitations and replicas. Second, before the advent of department stores, foreign items that came to Europe were exclusive properties of a few privileged classes. However, in the late 19th century, as the number of consumers who wanted to have a new status higher than themselves increased, exotic products of the Bon Marche department store became the object of desire for material pursuits toward the upper class rather than sentimental fantasies. Third, exotic tastes gradually spread to the public as production of products imitating foreign products became possible industrially with an easy access to them. From this, it can be seen that department stores were mediators of trends and the epicenter of popularizing exotic tastes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.135-158
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• 1994

The fashion industry of today is closely re-lated with the information activity. This study investigates now they take advantage of the fashion information by analysing some related fields including fashion design. Furthormore this study identify the factor which makes the design activity distinctive and predict and fu-ture trend in design. The purposes of this study through analysis are : to help find the way to facilitate the fashion industry and to develop the fashion merchandising in order to activate the re-cession of manufacturers and to improve competitiveness in the world market and to contribute to the academic achievement in the study of fashion merchandising. In the experimental approach the tasks of research are as follows: Research 1: The application of fashion infor-mation is discussed in terms of process and level. Research 2: The differences of the fashion design activities are captured on the basis of the characteristics of manufactures and fashion specialists and fashion information ac-tivities. The factors are identified which pre-dict and discriminate the results of fashion de-sign activities. The questionaire and interview were conduc-ted among women's clothing manufactures in Seoul and their fashion specialists in charge of merchandise development. The methods of survey were designed on the basis of theories developed so far and on he advice from the social scientists and fashion specialists. the methods were corrected and complemented through the 1st and 2nd preliminary investigations before their application For data analysis cronbach's a coefficient fre-quency percentage average standard devi-ation pearson's correlation coefficient were calculated and t-test F-test(ANOVA) Duncan's multiple range test regression and Discriminant analysis were conducted. The results of analysis throughout the experimen-tal studies were as follows: 1. The analysis of fashion in formation (1) the present application of information a. The source of information : Both the foreign and the domestic information came mostly from fashion journals magazines newspapers and other periodicals, the main source of market information was collected from the survey of popular items in recent years the data about the life-style of customers and their tastes for wearing were widely used as the information about consumers. b. The applicaton of information : The most widely used information was about fabrics. The foreign information was prefered on the whole. The domestic problems pointed out in this investgation were that the domestic journals showed the lack of specialty and the special organizations for fashion informatino were in urgent need. (2) The research of fashion information a. The various processes and levels of in-formation activities: Among the process of collection analysis and distribution the collec-tion process showed a good acheivement whereas the distribution whereas the distribution didn't. In levels of the systematic activities the acceptance of support and the utility of supported instruments the first indicated a high degree whereas the second showed lowest. b. The correlationship among subvariables : There was a significant correlation between the collection and the analysis process. The systematic activities revealed close relation-ship with the analysis process and the accept-ance of support with the distribution process. The close correlation was found between the utility of supported instruments and the analy-sis process. 2. The analysis of the fashion design activities (1) No significant differences were found in the design activities when the characteristics of companies were compared only. (2) According to the characteristics of fashion specialists the one with age experi-ence and high income showed rather good achievement but no significant differences were captured among sex department in charge title academic background education in abroad and field experience (3) The fashion information activities were strongly correlated with the design achieve-ment : The analysis process and the system-atic activity level had a great influence on the design activities. (4) In order to examine which cha-racteristics in (1-3) made it possible to pre-dct and discriminate the achievement in de-sign activities the Discriminant analysis was carried out. The results were as follows: the fashion information activities showed the highest discriminant rate. Next came the in-come level experience and age in that order Those four variables discrimated 37 from 50 who showed great achievement in design area (74%) and 51 from 83 in low achievement group (81%) Thus the total discriminant rate was 77.5%.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.574-591
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• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.