• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.45-65
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• 2014

The importance of the cultural identity of each country is emphasized among the new cultural paradigm of the 21st century. Leading world-wide trends, overseas licensed fashion magazines have expressed characteristics close to the culture and lifestyle of each country at the same time. The goal of this study was focused on finding out the differences and similarities between overseas licensed fashion magazine, or if the content would be compared to the aesthetic characteristics and criteria of the country they were published in. To accomplish this, we extracted the color, material and modifier from the scripts of the Korean and Japanese editions of VOGUE published during S/S in 2012 for comparative analysis of the aspects of color, fabrics and modifier between Japan and Korea. There were common but also unique characteristics, as the issues of VOGUE KOREA and VOGUE JAPAN published during the research period had modifier to fit each season and trend, the emergence of color and fabric. Especially, the kind and frequency of color, fabric and modifier could be considered as expressing their own unique fashion culture. In case of Korea, maximal with colorful and decorative image is especially strong, while in Japan the soft and gentle feminine image was rather strong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to examine the rise of hip-hop culture and its characteristics which have been established as a part of popular culture amid other subcultures and to examine the overall concept of hip-hop fashion which has been developing since its rise in the 1970s and particularly to examine the hip-hop after the turn of the new century when it has gone through several iterations and changes while simultaneously accommodating different trends and reflecting a highly diverse larger culture. The research methodology is a literature-based research that uses classification and analysis based on the preceding research including related books and dissertations and, considering that this research focuses on the characteristics of hip-hop from the 2000s to the present, mainstream news media such as newspapers and magazines around New York images of famous hip-hop culture & stores websites were used in this research. The most characteristic hip-hop fashions since the 2000s examined by this research comprise prep-hop, slim formal suits, skurban, hip-hop Goth, and hip-hop Tatto. First, prep-hop is a mixed match of a preppy look with latest hip-hop sentiments and hip-hop styles. Second, there are slim formal suits that reflect a change of trends that strongly show changes of hip-hop fashion consumers who have been following sports stars' fashions. Third, skurban is a hip-hop fashion combined with the look of skaters. Fourth, hip-hop Goth is what emphasizes strong Goth images such as grunge, skull, and devil in hip-hop fashions based on vintage fashion. Fifth, hip-hop Tatto style designs have appeared in diverse items such as trendy clothes and accessories that were most popular since the 2000s. Hip-hop fashion since the 2000s up to the present is beginning to be integrated with diverse other cultures and its most prominent characteristics is a change into slimmer silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.6
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• pp.163-175
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• 2000

This study focuses on the Zen style in contemporary fashion which presents itself as one of the dominant cultural phenomena these days. After investigating the basic concepts and features of the Zen style and examining its birth and development, this study moves on to the ways in which it is characteristically applied for the world of fashion. This study is also performed both by the theoretical research on related books and papers for the explication of main concepts and by the practical research on fashion magazines and works of famous fashion designers for the presentation of more detailed illustration. When we are talking about postmodernism, which is a reaction against or a continuation of modernism, as a cultural dominant shown up in the late twentieth century, the Zen style itself can be regarded as a typical representation of postmodernism in fashion. Although the Zen style can be viewed as sharing the basic principles with minimalism which is a main branch of modernism, it is strongly in line with postmodernism (which is human-centered) in that its fundamental idea is based on emotions and feelings of human beings and the purity of natural world. As above, ZEN is a crossover phenomenon between postmodernism and modernism. In this sense, it is said that within the name of postmodernism the Zen style has satisfied our desire to present our inner world of mind with the help of regional philosophy (in this case Oriental one). The four main aspects of the Zen style in fashion are following : simplicity connected with the Oriental moderation, the use of the Oriental silhouette and detail, the destruction of form, and the nature-friendly attitude. These will be under close examination in this study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.252-271
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.69-82
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investgate the social meaning and consumption values expressed on apparel advertisements In Teena-ger's magazines from 1976 to 1996. The results of this study were as follows. 1. As the number of the model in apparel advertisements was more than two people it was closely related to conformity and peer ac-ceptance of adolecent's developmental task. Also There were increasing number of foreign models and attractive and famous signers and talents. 2. The trend of appeals showed changing time and society. Since 1990 post-modern ap-proach has increased whereas rational and emotional approach were dominated in 1970s and 1980s. 3, The major consumption values in apparel advertisements were social value emotional value. From 1990 there were variety in consumption values related to adolescent's ap-parel advertisements. This results represented the possibility that apparel advertisements in adolescent's maga-zines not only mirror but mold change of con-sumption values and life style in adolescent. Especially to understand and predict the new generation in Korea educators and practi-tioners in Junior Fashion Market must try to study the current adolescent's life style and consumption values systematically.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.395-413
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• 1994

Costume is mirror of diverse life styles and attitudes in human life. It has a meaning beyond "clothing" . Fashion illlustration is to express these costumes with a picture. So, it can be said that it is a ′mirror of costumes′ in historical side. The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of fashion illustration of 17th century, which called its first one and to look into its characteristics and costumes of 17th century respotlighting fashion illustrators and painters related with fashion illustration in those days. This study is based on Western Europe by literatures. The fashion illustration in 17th century designed by painters and fashion illustrators. They are Wenceslaus Hollar, Abraham Bosse, Jacques Callot, Jean de st Jean, N. Bonar, A. Trouvain, A. Arnoult in France and so on. The characteristics of fashion illustration in 17th century are as follows : 1. There was a quickening of modern civil consciousness in 17th century. As the subject of costume culture moved from noble class to the working class which began to have a free, the fashion illustration changed to the direction of informing their social class and job. 2. The fashion illustrations of 17th century showed storng realism which was a base of modern picture. 3. The most of them showed costume plates. It was not to transmit adding intended forecast but to describe sincerely in costumes′ record. However, the fashion illustration since the middle of 17th century was designed considering fashion. 4. It could be said that the fashion illustration of 17th century was the forest one of today. It was expressed by Wenceslaus Hollar′s ones. And it is found in his suggestion of popular costumes before and behind and delicate description like accessories. 5. They were transmitted by fashion magazines internationally. Le Mercure Galant, which printed mode plates in 1678, was the first modern fashion magazine aiming at general readers. The fashion illustration of 17th century can divide into ones for court, for working classes, costume plates. The fashion illustrations for court designed by court painters. There were court costumes of early time, spanish Mode and of lately time, French Court Culture. They had baroque elements with a bunddle of ribbons and race decoration. On the other hand, the fashion iooustrations for working class were under the influence on Netherlands styles. They were designed for the purpose of god function and much use. That′s why was under the influence of puritanical life creed. In this situation, the costume plates directed the fashion in those days. At that time, they were supplied widely and it amy be an attempt of popularization. The fashion illustrations of 17th century appeared that they had transmissible character and artistics expression. On the basis of them, we can look into the fashion illustrations of today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.315-327
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to clarify the model of fashion change related to the cyclical variations suggested by Kroeber and Young and the selected social changes factors since Kapokyungchang(1894) in Korea. The sample was drawn from illustrations and photos in newspapers and magazines such as Chosunilbo, Dongailbo, and Yeowon. Documentary research and a content analysis have been done. The results were as follows : 1. Cyclical variations in dress were apparent for skirt length and silhouette. However, Kroeber's model and Young's model that regulary recurring cycles exist did not fit the data for 1970 to 1990 in Korea. For skirt length, the cycles appeared to be approximately five to six years for 1970 to 1990. 2. Social and institutional factors tended to account for more the variance in dress dimensions than political factors.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.381-389
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• 2012

This study presents a marketing communication strategy from the aspect of new consumption orientation. Consumer preference on ads media, on-line ads media, and WOM usage were examined for new consumption orientation groups. This study was executed in a question survey format. A total of 182 questionnaires were obtained and data were analyzed by PASW 18.0 and AMOS 7. The results were as follows. First, 8 types of consumption orientation factors were revealed; 'impulsive purchase', 'promotion oriented', 'social contribution', 'passive conformity', 'innovative', 'conspicuous', 'rational', and 'environmental conservation'. Then 4 groups were formed, 'Rational & Positive', 'Conspicuous Conforming', 'Positive Social Interested' and 'Low Price Oriented'. Second, communication responses were analyzed through consumption orientation groups. The 'Rational & Positive' group responded positively to every type of advertising media (especially new media). The 'Conspicuous Conforming' and 'Positive Social Interested' groups preferred traditional media such as TV, radio, and magazines; in addition, the 'Low Price Oriented' group liked only online banner ads. For WOM preference, the 'Rational & Positive' and 'Positive Social Interested' group preferred verbal consumer information like WOM. In distribution types, the just 'Positive Social Interested' group revealed a significant result for internet shopping malls. The results from this study will help establish marketing communication strategies based on the features of consumption orientation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.11
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• pp.1771-1781
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to classify the casual image by clothing design elements. This research was done by survey method with 30 kinds of casual image photos selected in fashion magazines. The data was analyzed by Reliability Analysis, Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's test and MDS. The results of this study are as follows: 1. Casual image was classified by 6 factors. Those were classic-casual, modern-casual, romantic-casual, vintage-casual, sexy-casual and active-casual images. 2. Classic-casual image was well-expressed by A silhouette, fit, chromatic and chromatic color coordinations and hard texture. Modern-casual image was well-expressed by H silhouette, fit and achromatic and achromatic color coordinations. Romantic-casual image was well-expressed by A silhouette, fit and soft texture. Vintage-casual image was well-expressed by H silhouette, combination apparel-fit, chromatic and chromatic color coordinations and fade-out texture. Sexy-casual image was well-expressed by fitted silhouette, tight apparel-fit and combination texture. 3. Casual image was positioned into mostly dynamic and modern on image scale.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.494-504
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to classify the romantic image by clothing design elements. This research was done by survey method with 20 kinds of romantic image photos selected in fashion magazines. The data was analyzed by Reliability Analysis, Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's test and MDS. The results of this study are as follows: 1. Romantic image was classified by 4 factors. Those were sexy-romantic, retro-romantic, natural-romantic and cute-romantic images. 2. Sexy-romantic image was well-expressed by fitted silhouette, achromatic and achromatic color coordinations and see-through texture. Retro-romantic image was well-expressed by X silhouette, achromatic and achromatic color coordinations and see-through or combination texture. Natural-romantic image was well-expressed by A silhouette and chromatic and achromatic color coordinations. Cute-romantic image was well-expressed by A silhouette and soft or combination(silky and soft) texture. 3. Romantic image was positioned into mostly traditional or artificial on image scale.