• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.155-170
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• 2008

Club culture is the global trend for youth in 21st century. Club is the space that is created with close relationship among music, dance and fashion. It is also experimental cultural art space with endlessly transforming style. Furthermore it is a space for independent minor culture which represents speciality than generality of cultural appetite and style of club. Cultural communities formed around club and their parties have placed as a strong subculture trend based on youth age group. What they are creating as a subculture could be our tomorrow's main trend and clubbers also could be our major power sources for future. Therefore it is necessary to pay attention to club culture. The purposes of this research are to identify the concept of clubber, to analyzes their basic club culture characteristics and elements, and to find out unique fashion styles of Korean clubber in comparison with the origin. To study club fashion style's origin and background, this study searched a theoretical flow from 1930's to 1990's. Then, Korean clubber's style is derived by comparing background and origin of Korean club culture with those of abroad. To analyze in various point of view, theoretical backgrounds about social, cultural, dresses, and design were considered. Since research target is a visual image, street fashion is analyzed on through, music channels and magazines from 1930's to present as well as designer's art photographies. Internet sites', cub culture association's and sound association's photos were also extracted. as a visual evidences to offer actual evidences. Geological targets are selected among Korean club culture's origin such as Hong-Ik University area, Shin-chon, Chungdam-dong and Apgujung-dong areas. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, clubber's fashion style influenced magnificently on major fashion design instead of being just youngster's resistance toward control group and it is contributing to our fashion culture to enrich it. Secondly, fashion styles of korean clubbers are based on those of western sub-culture, but with a unique localized history.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.569-587
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• 2010

In the field of fashion in this modern era, the tendency of diversification has created a variety of hybrid patterns and this tendency is being accelerated simultaneously by the hybrid trend. This research aims to analyze the aesthetic features of hybrid fashion in the modern "Sports Inspired Fashion(SIF)." We analyze fashion in the past 10 years from 2001 S/S to 2010 S/S. We focus on the four largest worldwide collections from New York, Paris, Milano, and London and concentrate on analyzing the contents from 38 volumes of Gap Press magazine. To accomplish our goal of study, we first define the concept of sports-inspired fashion and propose a framework of analysis to study hybrid patterns by reviewing the previous studies on hybrid patterns. Second, we analyze a wide range of sports-inspired fashion examples that have appeared in Gap Press magazines for the past 10 years(those which have been inspired by sports uniforms and training wears). Third, we analyze and classify the hybrid patterns of sports-inspired fashion. The results of our research are as follows. We have collected a total of 534 SIF works from the whole set of 61359 pictures and examined 23 sports fields. In terms of seasonal changes, the SIF works were found the most in the spring collections. Then, we have identified 25 hybrid patterns. The time hybrid pattern comprises more than half of the data(58.2%). The class-culture hybrid patterns comprise 18.8%, while the gender hybrid patterns comprise 18.2%. However, the intercultural hybrid patterns were rarely found, comprising merely 5% of the data. Our analysis confirms that sports and sports wear fashion are changing and developing in truly diverse ways in this modern era. This trend has continued to influence the high fashion in the modern age and is expected to exert a continuous impact on the change of fashion in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.131-139
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• 2001

The fashion designers in Korea can achieve the winning position in the competitive international market of fashion industry by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modem fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional styles. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the works of the active Korean fashion designer, Lee Young-Hee, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modem fashion with the elements of Korean traditional costume. In order to study this subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the design elements of Korean costume used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, FASHION TODAY, WWD, ELLE, BAZAAR, Marie Claire, Areumdown-Uri-Ot, The Beauty of Korea and FASHION SHOW from 1993 to 1999. The collected research data, 95 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the formal characteristics borrowed from Korean traditional clothing items and their application techniques. Other aesthetic characteristics of her works such as color, fabric and pattern were also analyzed. As a result of the study, it was found that Lee Young-Hee has adapted many different kinds of major Korean clothing items including 'chima', 'paji', 'po', and 'chogori'. Also it was apparent to note that the formal characteristics of Korean traditional clothing items were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modem sense.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.126-142
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• 2007

The second part of this study is to typify plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and ultimately to infer sexual ideology codified in modern fashion by a framework of this study, the socio-semiotic model. From this, sexuality represented in modern fashion was typified as follows: in women's fashion Traditional Femininity, Glamor Femininity, Androgynous Femininity, Babydoll Femininity and Genderless sexuality, while in men's fashion Traditional Masculinity, Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity and Genderless sexuality. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, modern fashion has been changed from a means expressing gender and class into a sign vehicle representing the new ruling system of age and sexual desire. The binary oppositional sexuality on center of man in the 19 C capitalist period has been gradually pluralized towards the post-capitalist period. Next, mainstream society in Korea is still positioned in the traditional heterosexuality, keeping the vertical power relationship between man and woman even in the post-modern period. However, the fact that both Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity acquire the position of dominant femininity connotes the change of modern femininity. Finally, plural sexuality represented in modern fashion has family resemblance and it shows contextual flexibility within contemporary period as well as a historical context. As a result, sexuality floats with a specific historical and socio-cultural context, and fashion as a material culture represents a masquerade as a identity vehicle, which constructs and de-constructs sexuality at the same time.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.99-116
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• 2006

This study was aimed at giving help to the people intending to change their hair fashion feeling for changing their own hair colour design and also providing the guide line to the cosmetic circles for developing new hair colour design and promoting sales by statistically analyzing hair colours and the other factors(demographic characteristics, hair styling, total fashion feeling, hair style) of capital area women in their twenties based on the theoretical study on tatal fasion feeling & hair fashion feeling, and hair trend. The researching methods were composed of prior theoretical research, statistical analysis. The prior theoretical research was accomplished by analysis of literatures, magazines and internet sites about total & hair fashion feelings and hair trend. The statistical analysis used a questionnaire composed of 33 questions in 5 categories. The survey of the questionnaire had been conducted from June 15 to June 28 in 2005 on the 600 women in the capital area, investigated by a group of experts on cosmetics or clothing from academic or business society. The analysis of materials from the survey was done by SPSS program(ver. 12.0) using frequency analysis, $x^2$-test and cross tabulation analysis specified on high significant values. Based on the above results of $x^2$-test and cross tabulation analysis, categorized the characteristics of the hair fashion feeling groups, especially hair colours in the order of percentage. This study would be very helpful to the people trying to change their own hair fashion feeling and be useful to the cosmetic circles for developing new hair colour design and promoting sales by comprehending hair colour market and also be valuable to develop the analysis methodology of hair colour and hair fashion trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1374-1385
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• 2009

This study focuses on three points. First, how designers develop clothing and cosmetic culture (which reflect time and culture) into other fashion products in order to verify that attire and makeup can be the objects of aesthetics in addition to functionality. Second, why the fashion design of Christian Dior has been continuously popular for women of all ages and countries in the development of fashion, attire, and makeup. Third, this study analyzes how the aesthetical characteristics of the fashion of Christian Dior are reflected in clothing and cosmetic culture in order to clarify the brand outlook on attire and makeup as a source of France's luxury fashion industry. The philosophical characteristics of Dior's fashion were studied based on existing literature. First, her childhood background (that became the motif of Dior's design) and the philosophical ideology of fashion design, perfume, and beauty were the focus of this study. Second, this study examined how consciousness on beauty expressed in hairstyle, perfume, and cosmetics is expressed in connection with clothing. Third, the background with which Dior's fashion and perfume business became successful is examined in addition the necessity of the image strategy for success in the cosmetics market was studied. Domestic and international books on clothing and cosmetics, preceding studies, the internet, and related magazines are utilized to consider the cosmetics and beauty fashion of Dior. The results of this study show how Korean fashion and cosmetic culture can further globalize. This study encompasses the period of 1905 when Christian Dior was born until 1957 when he died of a heart attack; it also deals with well-known designers of the Christian Dior House from Yves Saint Laurent of 1957 to John Galliano of the present.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.172-183
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• 2014

The term "new woman" (신여성 [Sinyeoseong], 新女性) refers to an idealized image of contemporary women during the so-called modern period in East Asia. In Korea, these "modern girls" were also referred to as modan (毛斷), or "cut-hair", reflecting changes in appearances that rejected the traditional value system in favor of "the new" in everyday life. Although it was used to refer to the perceived educated leaders of this new period, it also had the negative connotation of referring to frivolous women only interested in the latest fashion. The popular discourse on this "new woman" was constantly changing during this early modern period in East Asia, ranging from male-driven women's movements to women-driven liberal and socialist movements. The discourse often included ideals of what constituted female impeccability in women's domestic roles and enlightened views on housekeeping, yet in most cases the "new woman" was also expected to be a good wife and mother as well as a successful career woman. The concept of the "new woman" was also accompanied by an upheaval in women's social roles and their physical boundaries, and resulted in women repositioning themselves in the new society. The new look was a way of constructing their bodies to fit their new roles, and this again was rapidly reproduced in visual media. Newspapers, magazines, and plays had gained immense popularity by this time and provided visual material for the age with covers, advertisements, and illustrations. This research will explore the fashion of the "new woman" through archival resources, specifically magazines published in the 1920s and 1930s. It will investigate how women's appearances and the images they pursued reflected the ideal image of the "new woman." Fashion information providers, trendsetters, and levels of popular acceptance will also be examined in the context of the early stage of the fashion industry in East Asia, including production and distribution. Additionally, as the idea of the "new woman" was a worldwide phenomenon throughout the 19th and early 20th century, the effect of Japanese colonialism on the structure of Korean culture and its role as a cultural mediator will also be considered in how the ideal image of beauty was sought, and whether this was a western, colonial, or national preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.563-573
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• 2009

This study analyzed the trends and aesthetic characteristics of fur design found in the contemporary fashion to examine the status of fur material in the contemporary fashion design, and through an analysis of the meaning it attempted to come up with a new viewpoint and form on material for the future fashion design. A literature review was used to explore the kinds and properties of furs. In addition, an empirical analysis of works that have appeared in fashion collections since the year 2000 was conducted with local and foreign fashion magazines such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode and other publications related to fashion collections. In the contemporary fashion, the trends of fur design are represented by use of various items, material combinations, application to decorative purposes(like trimmings, details, or accessories), and a wide range of colors and textures available by advanced dyeing and finishing techniques. The aesthetic values intrinsic to fur design are that the expression of conspicuous luxury covers even the qualitative aspect of luxury and adds fashionable images to casual items, contributing to the popularization of fur fashion, by using a variety of artificial furs; the expression of sensual feminine beauty allows the animal and primitive feel characteristic of furs to convert a feminine body into a sensual image of more than a simple biological impulse; and the expression of hybridity presents a new viewpoint through distortions, exaggerations, deviations from the existing constituent forms, or futuristic sensibilities in all elements of fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.51-58
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to analyze how the appreciation or recognition of quick response systems, with the utilization of technology, can improve operations for businesses in the DongDaeMoon fashion market. A survey was conducted from April 25 to May 10 in 2007, among owners and designers of wholesale shops in the DongDaeMoon fashion market. Data was collected from 270 subjects, and general descriptive and comparative statistical analysis was applied to acquire various parameters. Firstly, the product types within the DongDaeMoon fashion market were small and medium quantity batch production systems. The majority of businesses adopted the production strategy of outsourcing through subcontracted factories. To re-order, a fashion merchandising required 2 to 3 days. Secondly, the design sources of fashion merchandises were national fashion brands, popular items within the same industries, and also fashion magazines. New products was made within 4 days after a sample item was received. Business acquaintances were fashion retail shops of DongDaeMoon, and internet or home shopping companies. Thirdly, the recognition of importance and effects of quick response systems was difference between high and low group of the utilization of technology in the DongDaeMoon fashion market.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.189-201
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• 2007

Contemporary young people reveal their own personal values through the fashion that creates visual looks. Since 2000s began, young generations who are self-centered, value their own personality and constantly seek for changes form the main axis of fashion. In particular, the lower half of the body that has begun to be exposed outward has become the region that they want to expose as more ideal region than the upper half of the body. Further, young generations always have interest in fashion, and female college students in their early 20s are regarded as the group that values the aspects of pleasure that involve clothes and tends to seek sensibility when purchasing clothes. With this background, this study aims to examine how the styles that apply to modern fashion and recent vogues are evaluated with a focus on skinny jean from jean pants styles preferred by female college students. Materials regarding theoretical background and photos were collected from fashion related magazines at home and abroad and from the Internet websites. Questionnaires were surveyed for 160 female college students aged 20 or 25 who live in Seoul, and the results show as follows: Many female college students enjoy skinny jean and follow the fashion. However there are consumers who cling to their own styles even in the fashion of skinny jen. Ironically, some consumers wear it although they consider it as an item that does not fit Koreans: they tend to consider perspectives from others rather than their own preferences. For example, they wear it in order to show it to their boy friends or because they want themselves to look slim. In addition consumers seem to use Dongdaemun Shopping Mall or Internet shopping malls that provide various and low-priced items rather than to use high-priced famous products. It is considered that this result is shown as above because the scope of the study was restricted to female college students in their 20s. Accordingly, it is suggested that further studies should extend their subjects to wider range of ages.