• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.629-647
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• 2017

As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.345-363
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• 2024

This study aims to analyze fashion design cases using traditional elements based on the research and analysis of traditional folk cultural paper-cutting crafts in China, and to expand the area of fashion design using traditional elements by developing 3D digital fashion design. For herein, the techniques and characteristics of Chinese paper-cutting crafts were investigated. This survey facilitated an analysis of the formative characteristics of battery crafts in contemporary fashion design. As for the analysis case, the case of using battery crafts expressed in modern fashion for 10 years from 2010 to 2024 S/S was selected. The results are as follows. First, the typical characteristics of Chinese paper cutting technology-relief, micro-carved, combined with relief and micro-carved expressive techniques of engraving art effect-can be explored by analyzing contemporary fashion case collections through the perspective and trend of leading traditional culture. Second, in the traditional paper cutting process, most paper-cutting works are expressed in red, but white and black are mainly used in fashion, in addition to the active use of the five colors. Third, the characteristics of contemporary fashion patterns primarily utilize the paper-cutting process, incorporating elements such as plants, animals, and geometric patterns. Fourth, the utilization of paper cutting in 3D digital design offers time and economic benefits, allowing for quick adjustments to various design developments. In contemporary fashion, it is expected that the use of paper cutting can provide useful creativity and value for the inheritance and modernization of traditional culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.30-44
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• 2020

Bootleg fashion emerged from the fashion industry after 2010, and has been used across a range of different genres. However, it has yet to be theoretically established; therefore, this study will explain bootleg fashion as a new genre, which will help in the planning and designing of products within domestic fashion brands. The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristics and internal meaning of bootleg fashion as a recently emerged fashion phenomenon that borrows from other brands without permission. The research methodology included a theoretical literature review of fashion sites and related materials and empirical research using case analysis. Results of the analysis of both characteristics and internal meaning of bootleg fashion suggest the following characteristics: "unauthorized use of symbolic elements," "disorganization of boundaries between fashion," "multiplicity through globalization," and "newness through deconstruction and recombination." Internal meanings derived from the analysis were "parody through symbol," which is seen as "a parody and homage resulting from the unauthorized use of a brand," while "decomposition through disorganization" is seen as a break-up of the boundaries between different fashions from a mainstream-oriented perspective. A juxtaposition of elements was demonstrated by "playfulness through transformation," which showed that such fashion cannot coexist with positional transposition. Finally, "spread as a cultural phenomenon" was derived through the diffusion through digital media with DIY culture. As such, bootleg fashion has been reborn as an innovative fashion genre, breaking the taboo of the illegitimate from the past and demonstrating new endeavors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.18-31
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• 2016

In response to increasing preference for tattoos during the 2000s, the demand for Japanesestyle tattoo fashion increased. Ukiyoe, the prototype of Japanese tattoo popular in the Edo period has been preserved traditional expression techniques to the present, It is characterized by the following: first, the tattoos share literary lyricism through plays borrowed from the classics. second, it displays harmony and equivocal expression of heterogeneous elements samurai and kabuki mono. third, humorous images are expressed in picture-in-picture form. And fourth, presence of fixed characters based on the publication culture. Tattoo fashion is characterized by the following: First, eclectic fashion based on pastiche; second, characters emphasizing fun and comicality; third, the adoption of tattoo models for establishing brand images; and fourth, Cultural association for the new composition of culture consumption. Pastiche, harmony of heterogeneous elements, fun and comicality, and fixed characters were found to be common between tattoo ukiyoe and tattoo fashion. That is, it attempted to meet the sensitive consumers' needs to keep up with the trends by adopting tattoo incorporated into the subculture of neo pop. This shows clearly the characteristics of fashion, which creates new trends through interacting with the contemporary culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.898-905
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• 2012

This paper develops fashion products that express the beauty of Baekje through an investigation of the unique characteristics of Baekje artifacts. This work can promote the Baekje region and provide cultural goods for local festivals to improve the economic competitiveness of the area. Artifacts from the Muryongwangreung in Gongju (the capital city of Baekje during the Woongjin period)were reinterpreted into a more modern form. Among the Muryongwangreung artifacts, the king and queen's gold coffin as well as chignon ornaments were used as design motifs. These artifacts were stylized into motifs and developed into patterns using Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3. The patterns were subsequently applied to the designs of scarves and ties. The color was selected using the CMYK colorway from the Gongju city logo subsequently, a total of 12 designs (including 6 ties and 6 scarves) were developed. The design developed from this research can be applied to diverse products to promote the area. Using the research as a foundation, fashion product development based on the local culture can have a significant impact on the establishment of the Baekje cultural identity and the competitiveness of the region.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.3 s.56
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• pp.361-379
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to find how hybrid fashion and make-up responses to multiculturalism condition and how expression of hybrid. Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance. In accordance with this current of the times, this study observed the hybrid found in the multiculturalism of the 21th century. The expression of hybrid in multiculturalism of contemporary fashion and make up combination of difference. Second, the society development and a generalized knowledge of multiculturalism and hybrid and history of make up. Third, characteristic of fashion about multiculturalism and characteristic of fashion about hybrid classify a divide into five according to fashion trend. Oriental and western of hybrid, the past and the present of hybrid, high society and the lower classes of hybrid, the main current and non mainstreamers of hybrid, the present and the future of hybrid. Fourth, characteristic of make up about multiculturalism and characteristic of make up about hybrid classify a divide into five according to fashion trend. Oriental and western of hybrid, the past and the present of hybrid, high society and the lower classes of hybrid, the main current and non mainstreamers of hybrid, the present and the future of hybrid take measures too.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.154-164
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• 2004

The purpose of this theses is to review Hanliu phenomenon, a kind of social and cultural phenomenon, in China around A. D. 2000 in the view of the culture-diffusion theory, and analyze its effect to the fashion style of the new young generation of China. In this theses, Hanliu phenomenon means the enthusiasm of Asian people for Korean mass cultures such as Korean dramas, pop songs and fashions from late 1990's. This research adopts two kinds of methods for analyzing Hanliu phenomenon: a qualitative research method and a quantitative one. As a qualitative research method, we analyzed Hanliu phenomenon with several sources of documentaries and audio-visual materials on it. As a quantitative research method, we conducted a survey of about 100 university students in Beijing for how they feel of korean culture and fashions. The Hanliu phenomenon leads to the popularity of Korean products and the general Korean cultures. Also, it affected the Chinese young generation so much that the Korean fashion becomes popular among them. Its effects to the fashion styles of Chinese youths can be summarized in three factors as follows. Firstly, the fashions of Korean entertainers such as H.O.T hair style and Hip-hop fashion style are widely imitated. Secondly, the preference of Korean fashion products has been widely increased. The number of stores dealing with Korean fashion products has been increased. Finally, Korean culture and products have actively been imitated in China according to the increased popularity of Korean fashion products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.471-484
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• 2018

This study selected fashion brands claiming to advocate feminism to analyze their characteristics and female images. For the study's data, online foreign feminist fashion brands were sifted from March 2017 to January 2018 and 28 clothing brands were selected. The study's results show that feminist fashion brands aim at the demassification and individualization of fashion products to be more inclusive of individuals' physical characteristics and diversity. Additionally, feminist brands entice consumption through communication and participation in online communities and through the value of social coexistence. The essential female image produced by feminist fashion brands deconstructs a socially idealized female image and expresses a sense of self-body positivity. In turn, the concept of self-body positivity is communicated through natural images of independent women with distinct identities based on differences in race, culture, and sexual orientation. Moreover, feminist fashion brands produce social images featuring independent women using active wear to engage in social activities. Casual wear is also used to reflect active women, while mannish looks and power suits express women's social status and professional abilities. Ultimately, these offer functionally active and rational images, combined with female images featuring long hair and makeup. Yet another type of female image seeks to create a new vision of women as diverse due to their various cultures, countries of origin, races, and individual tastes. These new images express women's physical differences, distinct identities, and diversity while simultaneously deconstructing pre-existing forms of clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.319-329
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• 2022

This study started from the practical need for a career experience program in the fashion major that is creative and responds to current methodologies. The purpose of this study is to propose a fashion work experience program that combines digital technology and practical experience. The research methods and procedures were as follows: fashion items and wearable devices were selected, the LED smart bag program was developed, and it was executed. A total of 123 students participated in the program, and a satisfaction survey was conducted after observation and oral evaluation. All of the participants completed the LED smart bag processes of design ideation, material selection, production, and styling using an eco-bag (one of the fashion items and as an LED wearable device). As a result of the participants' satisfaction (on a 5-point scale), most items showed a high level of satisfaction of 4.39 points or more. The smart bag program was evaluated to increase interest based on the time allotted and the students' level and to bolster their understanding of, and interest in, the fashion major. Therefore, this study is expected to be baseline to explore diversification of the fashion major work experience program, in order to create interest in the fashion major based on creative convergence competency.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.596-608
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to reveal the relationship between self confidence in fashion coordination and fashion information search of men. This study also examine the utility of services of fashion coordination in fashion store. A questionnaire was developed and data was collected from 248 male consumer in the age of $20{\sim}29$ living in Busan and it was analyzed by the statistical method of frequencies, factor analysis, analysis of variance and regression. The results of this study were as follows: First, information contents of fashion coordination include four dimension, such as fashion style information, knowledge about fashion item, way of putting-on for stylish appearance and beauty information. And degree of search fashion information was significant different among groups classified by consumer's level of self confidence in fashion coordination. Second, multiple regression analysis revealed that consumer's self confidence in fashion coordination could be predicted from the amount of search fashion information contents and information sources. In conclusion, fashion information search was important factor which influenced on self confidence in fashion coordination. and male consumers perceived fashion coordination services in fashion store will be useful information.