• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.83-100
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• 2009

In the 'Society of the Spectacle', Guy Debord argued that modern life was dominated by the commodity form and the false desires it engendered. He predicted in 1967 that culture would become the driving force in the development of the economy by the end of the century, He was sure when culture becomes nothing more than a commodity, it must also become the star commodity of the spectacular society. Fashion, the starriest of star commodities with its seductive fantasy approaches to the viewers occluding the commercial reality. From this point, the spectacular property of the modern fashion can be found. This study starts on the notion that the modern fashion is on the center of capitalist consumer culture and is constructed by spectacle. On this premise, the purpose of this study is analysing the attribute of 'spectacle' and 'keeping distance ￡Tom spectacle' in modern fashion expressed in fashion show, fashion media and fashion store. The fashion houses in the 1990s that recognised the commercial value of shock and spectacle were eager to employ young spectacularly visible named designers. They generated the publicity necessary for sales of perfume, cosmetics, bags and diffusion range of clothes through the visible fashion show and fashion media. In the fashion show and fashion media, fashion goods as the commodity both flaunts and disguises its commercial nature in spectacle. The spectacle on the fashion store is the process turning the commodity into image to arouse viewer's higher interest. In the fashion store, the appearance of the commodity such as space, display, package is considered more importantly than its 'utility value'. Meanwhile, the study also covered the innovative trial to evade the ubiquitous 'spectacle' in fashion area.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.21 no.10
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• pp.480-489
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• 2020

Controversy and legal disputes over counterfeit fashion designs have recently arisen in the fashion industry. The purpose of this study is to examine cases of counterfeiting disputes over fashion designs, and how the perception of counterfeit fashion designs is fostered from the learner's point of view, suggesting implications for the counterfeiting problem. As a result of this study, first, counterfeiting disputes over fashion design started from a lack of utilization of the Design Protection Act and the ambiguity in counterfeit design criteria. Second, the negative perceptions of counterfeit designs were mainly about unethical behavior, inhibiting the growth of the fashion industry, and reducing consumers' willingness to buy the genuine article. Positive perceptions were mainly about the process of creation, the promotion of a developmental environment for the fashion industry, and the expansion of opportunities to promote new designs. The most common perception was the absence of clear criteria for judgments about counterfeiting. Third, the implications of the counterfeiting problem in fashion design require effective institutional improvement in the fashion industry, the establishment of standards to deal with counterfeiting, the development and practical introduction of education proposals regarding intellectual property rights, and changing the perception of counterfeiting in the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.117-123
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• 2014

This paper examined dyeing using sulfur dye with nylon and the characteristics of high gauge knitting for generating high functionality including light weight, wind resistance and elasticity using fine nylon threads. Yarn tension, stitch field and knitting speed of high and fine gauge knitting were measured. The influence of reducing agents on sulfur dye, optimum dyeing conditions and fastness features in nylon dyeing were analyzed. The analysis results are presented below. When nylon (Hyoseong, 40d/34f) and spandex (Hyoseong, 20d) for use as hosiery yarn were used to knit high gauge and flat weave, 44 gauge, the effective knitting conditions were a stitch field over 8.2cm in 1 course length, yarn tension of less than 5g and knitting speed below 18rpm. Nylon dyeing using sulfur dye showed effective results when a rongalite reducing agent was used at more than 10% o.w.f. and dyeing was maintained at $98^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes. For dyeing nylon and spandex composite using sulfur dye, color fastness in washing, water, daylight and friction were higher than Class 4 or 5, which indicated a superior property. The analysis results verified that the existing problems in nylon dyeing could be solved by using sulfur dyes that don't use heavy metals due to superior fastness and therefore quality, high gauge nylon knit products could be produced.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.151-165
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• 2013

This paper aims to examine the implications of the global market for Korean textile and fashion firms with regard to recent changes in the international business environment to improve the corporative management to the level that the global economy demands. The trade and business environment is moving toward the paradigm of glocalism. As the geographical scope of the market and business environment continues to expand with the aid of technological development, demands for global standards as a means to offer universal validity in business settings have been raised. The glocalized society values diversity as a notion beyond global standardization. The world trade orders are subject to free trade; however, protectionism has substantially promoted trade barriers in the name of the environment and safety issues, ethical managements, and intellectual property rights. For sustainable development in the global market, Korean firms should strive to implement global standards related to these issues and corporate social responsibility in their business settings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.160-173
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• 2011

Stripe has been one of the all-time favorite fabric patterns so far and the usages have been widely applied of nearly everything ranging from everyday dress to interior fabrics. As the times change, patterns of this simple geometrical design have gradually become varied. Many effects of stripe patterns have allowed the patterns to be used in fabrics for fashion design and the patterns are considered fit for expressing individual characteristics. By studying theoretical background on categories of stripe patterns and the characteristics as a design and by researching the trends and properties exhibited in the modern fabric design, this paper will seek the potential of stripe patterns for design of a modern sense and the directions to express the patterns as a value-added design. This research was conducted through literature, books published at home and abroad, research papers and photographs on stripe patterns. Domestic magazines, web research, and photographs published since 2000 were studied for an analysis of the trends and characteristics of stripe patterns displayed in the modern fabric design. As the results, this research will explain the tendencies of stripe patterns on the modern fabric designs divided into several ways: simple and restrained modernity, active and sporty property, mannishness putting practicality forward-emerging as the status of women rises, and femininity emphasizing elegant women. The characteristics of the Plastic are categorized simplicity, rhythmicality, and Mixing of patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.261-268
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate problems of design, fitness, suitability for movement, and wearing comfort of jumper for Korean military tank drivers through analysis of actual wearing condition by questionnaire and field evaluation and to provide basic data for developing its improved design. The survey was done for 477 military tank drivers and evaluation was performed using thermal manikin to measure insulation. The overall satisfaction for design of jumper for military tank driver was over 3.5(likert scale). The overall satisfaction for fitness of jumper for military tank driver was also over 3.5. The satisfactions for material was between 2.39 and 3.13 and the satisfaction for pilling property was the lowest, followed by static property and shape stability after laundering. The satisfactions for movement suitability were standing(3.81), sitting(3,38), raising hand(forward: 2.90, sideward: 3.01), respectively. In insulation evaluation of jumper for military tank drivers and outwears(jacket, jumper), the insulation of jumper for military tank drivers was lower than outwear(jumper) and same with outwear(jacket). The insulation in dynamic and still condition(without wind) of jumper for military tank driver was 0.37clo and 0.31clo, respectively. Its decreation rate in dynamic condition comparing to still condition was 59% which was lower than jacket(0.73clo) and jumper(1.15clo).

• Journal of Arbitration Studies
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.87-105
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• 2015

Intellectual property law is slowly fighting to keep pace with the rapid growth of the fashion industry. Copyright and patent law have proven only minimally effective in fashion, even in the US and other top fashion nations, forcing designers and fashion companies to rely on their trademarks to protect their work. Litigating trademark disputes in the fashion industry presents a host of problems as witnessed in a recent Christian Louboutin case, leading the parties to resort to Alternative Dispute Resolution(ADR) and Online Dispute Resolution(ODR). ADR methods, especially arbitration, are increasingly emerging as substitutes to litigation. Using these methods, the fashion industry (CFDA in the US case) should sincerely consider a self-regulating program in which its members, both fashion designers and corporations alike, can resolve disputes in a manner mutually beneficial to all parties in order to preserve the industry's growth, solidarity, and esteem In particular, for the US fashion industry, the ongoing Innovative Design Protection and Privacy Prevention Act(IDPPPA) anti-counterfeit legislation could have caused a chilling effect against innovation. New designers with no name and less resources who could normally flourish producing inspired-by designs may find themselves subject to copyright infringement legislation since the IDPPPA may expand the protection of established designers and brands with more resources. This fear and its implication could be solved by the fashion industry itself since fashion experts know best how to handle these fast-paced issues arising in the field. Therefore, stakeholders in the fashion industry should commit to protecting innovation within fashion on a long-term basis by establishing a panel handling an ADR process. This can mitigate the uncertainty created by the IDPPPA or any other legislation from elsewhere, which could result in a shying away from experimentation with inspired-by designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.33-48
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to define the moaning and features of humor in modern fashion. by examining how it's being grafted into fashion, based on artistic expression including collage, assemblage, photo montage, graffiti, transformation, distortion, exaggeration and optical illusion. Beside. humor of fashion is to examine not only laugh and fun but also formative expression and creativity. Furthermore, it is to enlarge the range of conception for future fashion. The findings of this study could be described as below: The features of humorous fashion by collage and assemblage boiled down to unexpectedness, disharmony and creativity. The photo montage was marked by popularity, reproduction and recreativity, and graffiti was characterized by attention, simpleness, and amusement. And there were unexpectedness, creativity and strangeness in transformation, distortion, magnification and optical illusion. The meaning of humorous fashion that carries such features could eventually be summarized into the followings : First, the fashion, from which collage, assemblage, photo montage. graffiti, transformation, distortion, magnification and optical illusion were detected. could be sorted out into several categories that used different things : introduction of objects of different nature, dramatic impression and wit based on photo montage technique, introduction of comic components and infant image, and destruction of aesthetic principles. Second, the substance of humor in art could be applied to fashion design as well as visual art. Humor is a property related to accidental, unexpected incident, behavior, situation or idea, and it puts laugh, disharmony or awkwardness in fashion. Third, spicing fashion with humor could serve to draw people's attention, break down the barrier among people exposed to dry sentiment, and connect the public with art.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.438-444
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• 2011

Bamboo leaves, as natural dye provide unartificial fresh green, are known for expert property at anti-bacterial, anti-aging, anti-oxidation, skin whitening, moisturizing, peeling of horny, deodorizing and some skin disease like as eczema and inflammation without any allergic response. Also, It is quite common to obtain bamboo leaves from our surrounding but most of them were not in use. On purpose of development the way of recycle with common material to dye, bamboo leaves were used to dye on ramie fiber which is valuable for both of apparel and industrial field and investigated their dyeing property. Using extract from bamboo leaves, dyeing property was examined with dyeability, colorimetric property, light fastness and wash fastness under different conditions by extract density, dyeing time, dyeing method and mordants. As results, dyeing was generally colored in yellowish, K/S Value was shown more higher on hemp fiber than ramie. The most optimum dyeing condition was investigated on pre-mordant treatment, dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, dyeing time 30min and extract density 400%. On the treatment with mordant(Al, Fe, Cu), dyebility on both of hemp and ramie fiber were increased by mordant. Especially with Copper(Cu) as mordant, dyebility was highly increased than any other mordants and dyeings showed in deep color. Also on the fastness test which is the most important to natural dyeing, wash-fastness showed good performance with 4-5 grade but light-fastness was above 4 grade on both of hemp and ramie fiber, lower than wash-fastness overall.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.78-92
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• 2010

The culture phenomenon, which the desire of self expression is noticeable and the diversity of gender identity is widely accepted, simply makes a difference in the lifestyle of one human being rather than the dichotomous classification of male and female. Now, the delicate and aesthetic sensitivity classified as the feminine characteristics is no longer the exclusive property of female and this refers to substituting it as a social gender from the concept of biological sex. This phenomenon has influenced on the male culture and is creating various codes according to the cultural gender extended from the gender as a social role. Also, the transition into the western lifestyle has extended the aesthetic emotion to accommodate new codes from the diversification and globalization of lifestyle. The mansumer power, which does not care too much about the money for the emotionally attached items, has enabled various fashion styles. After analyzing the diversified clothing behavior conducted by these people in connection with the social phenomenon, First, this shows the phenomenon of emotional value pursuit that finds pleasure over the clothing as the item of augmented reality is added to the concept of play, in which the real space referred to as garment and virtual space of playing the rock, paper and scissors game meet together within the augmented reality. Second, the convergence concept has enabled the coordination of new style by obscuring the area of design concept and this refers to the changes in design from the development of new items and transformation into double-style details. Third, the divergence that intensively provides specific use/convenience and specialized value shows a change in the fashion market from the phenomenon that admits various gene rations of culture and specifically, takes differently about the recognition of middle-aged males. Fourth, the variety seeking tendency receives attention as the value of future design together with the phenomenon of discriminative value pursuit. In the male fashion, it is linked to the collaboration with the design area and this tells that the fashion with the narcissistic cross-dressing and motto of neutral gender without being sided to male/female is rising.