• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.828-837
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the physical properties and the hand of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics compared to linen. The mixed fabrics were made by rayon, polyester and modal fiber as warp yarn, and ramie, flax, rayon/flax and cotton/flax as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength/extension, water absorbancy and warmth retention were measured for test fabrics. The mechanical properties were measured by Kawabata system, and the hand value was calculated by previously developed equation. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The crease resistance and drape properties of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics were improved compared to those of linen. The tensile strength of polyester/bast fiber mixed fabrics increased compared to those of linen, but rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mired fabrics decreased. The extension of all mixed fabrics was increased compared to that of linen. The rayon/ramie and modal/ramie mixed fabrics showed lower warmth retention than linen. The mixed fabrics used rayon and modal as warp yarn showed higher water absorbancy than linen. The Koshi and Hari hand value of all mixed fabrics showed lower than those of linen. Fukurami hand value showed little difference between mixed fabrics and linen. Shari, Kishimi, and Shinayakasa hand value of rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mixed fabrics showed higher than those of linen.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.22-29
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• 1999

This paper descrived the changes of peel strength wrinkle recovery and dimensional stability after fusing 4 different wool face fabrics with 3 different fusible interlinings. The fusing condition was conducted by fusing press machine under 4kg.f/cm2 at 15$0^{\circ}C$. To determine the effect of the varous physical properties of the fused fabrics face fabrics and interlinings on the peel strength wrinkle recovery and dimensional stability(hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage) of fused fabrics correlation among the KES values of fused fabrics face fabrics and interlinings to the peel strength rinkle recovery and dimensional stability of fused fabrics were expeerimentally analyzed,. As the results the peel strength was mainly influenced by the cover factor of face fabric and interlinings. After fusing wrinkle recovery and hygral expansion were decreased. The cover factor wrinkle recovery weight thickness shear rigidity and frictional properties of face fabric and the thickness of fused fabrics were not influence to the wrinkle recovery of fused fabrics. In addition the dimensional stabilities of fused fabrics were mainly influenced by the tensile and frictional properties of the wrinkle recovery of fused fabrics. In addition the dimensional stabilities of fused fabrics were mainly influenced by the tensile and frictional properties of the face fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.6 s.91
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• pp.37-42
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• 2006

Researches to preserve and restore the remaining fabrics as costume heritages have been carried out. In this study, in order to artificially restore an excavated silk fabrics, degummed silk fabrics and safflower dyed silk fabrics were prepared for an experiment. These fabrics were photo-degraded by the Xenon arc beam to have various strength retention(100%, 80%, 60%, 40%, 20%). The fine structure and physical properties of Xenon arc treated fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as tensile test, weight loss, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, yellowness, color, SEM etc. Tensile strength and the crystal diffraction intensity of silk fabrics decreased as Xenon arc hem treatment time increased. Weight loss increased slightly. Strength retention was decreased as the Xenon arc beam treatment time goes by. (Yellowness of the undyed silk fabrics and $L^*$ of the dyed silk fabrics increased. Whiteness of the undyed silk fabrics and $b^* of the dyed silk fabrics decreased.) SEM results of the silk fabrics treated Xenon arc beam show that surface was a little damaged.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.448-458
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• 2010

Kenaf has a rigid and rough touch that inhibits the use of it as a textile material; therefore, this study developed a novel textile material using kenaf. Kenaf and cotton were blended in the ratio of 3:7 and manufactured as 20' spun yarn that was compared to 20's spun yarn made of 100% cotton. Both kenaf/cotton-blended and 100% cotton spun yarn were constructed as plain woven and knitted fabrics. Four kinds of fabrics were prepared as follows. Plain kenaf/cotton-woven fabrics, plain cotton-woven fabrics, kenaf/cotton jersey, and cotton jersey. A cellulase washing process was carried out to reduce the character of kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics, rigid, and rough touch. All fabrics were pretreated with NaOH. NaOH at the concentrations of 0, 0.25, 1.25, and 2.25mol/L, and cellulase at concentrations of 0, 1, 3 and 5g/L were used since the pretreatment of NaOH has a higher efficiency of weight loss than $Na_2CO_3,\;K2CO_3$ and Triton X-100. The ratio of weight loss, tensile strength, stiffness, drape property, and surface appearance were measured in order to evaluate the efficiency of the washing treatment on fabrics. Kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics exhibited more rigid and rough features than cotton fabrics. A cotton jersey showed significant differences in the degree of stiffness and drape properties. When all fabrics were treated with 1.25mol/L of NaOH and 3g/L of cellulase, kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics showed a higher retention ratio of tensile strength than cotton fabrics after washing despite the increased weight l08s of kenaf-blended fabrics compared to cotton fabrics. The ratio of weight loss for all fabrics was well correlated with flexibility. The washing treatment process made woven fabrics more flexible than knitted fabrics, because the stiffness of woven fabrics made the rubbing actions stronger. Kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics showed a significantly higher ratio of weight loss and more reduction in stiffness than cotton fabrics after the washing treatment. This might be due to the lack of cohesiveness and easy elimination from fabrics. The drape property of kenaf-blended fabrics was superior to cotton fabrics.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.6-11
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the subjective fabric hand of sleepwear fabrics, and to assist in developing sleepwear fabrics that offer maximum comfort in wearing sensation. In general, the respondents noted that sleepwear fabrics made with polyester had better tactile sensation than those made with cotton, while satin weave fabrics felt better than plain weave fabrics. As regards the difference in fabric hand according to gender, female students responded with more receptiveness and sensitivity than male students in the category of woven fabric evaluation. As regards the same textile materials, the evaluations of female students and male students differed in fabric hand descriptors, particularly for the evaluation on cotton fabrics. Male students responded that both plain weave fabrics and satin weave fabrics were stiff while female students replied that satin weave fabrics had better tactile sensation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.711-717
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• 1996

This study was carried to figure out the effect of washing on the cationic surfactant (DSDMAC) absorption by nylon fabrics washed with anionic surfactant(SDBS). Cationic surfactant absorption, static electricity, and fabric stiffness of washed and unwashed nylon fabrics were estimated. And to check the correlation between DSDMAC absorption and SDBS absorption, SDBS absorption by nylon fabrics were measured The results were as follows; 1. Nylon fabrics washed with SDBS absorbed more DSDMAC than unwashed fabrics. The more SDBS absorbed by nylon fabrics, the more DSDMAC absorbed. This is account for the increase in negative zeta potential of washed nylon fabrics. 2. Absorption of SDBS by nylon fabrics increased static electricity. Absorption of DSBMAC by washed and unwashed nylon fabrics greatyl decreased static electricity, and static electricity of washed nylon fabrics more decreased than that of unwashed nylon fabrics. 3. When washing cycles were under 20, DSDMAC absorption decreased fabric stiffness. As washing cycles were over 20, DSDMAC deposited as particles acted as points of weak adhesion between adjacent fibers, so increased the fabric stiffness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.340-346
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• 2005

Cotton and rayon fabrics were treated with BTCA an DMDHEU which are used as DP finishes, and their effects on physical properties and the drape of BTCA and DMDHEU treated fabrics were compared. The wrinkle recoverablity of cellulosic fabrics treated with DP finishes was improved. The CWRA of DMDHEU treated fabrics was more increased than that of BTCA treated fabrics, but the WWRA of BTCA treated fabrics was more increased than that of DMDHEU treated fabrics. The drape of fabrics treated with BTCA and DMDHEU were reduced, but the drape of DMDHEU treated fabrics was worse than one treated with BTCA. This is because BTCA and DMDHEU have the distinction of crosslink. The bending and shering properties of BTCA and DMDHEU treated cellulosic fabrics were changed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research fabrics, colors, and arrangement of color in Jogak-bo which were developed during the late Chosun dynasty. It is expected that from the analysis of the number, distribution and arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo in the late Chosun we can suggest various color arrangements thoset can be applied to modern fashion are summarized as follows. First, as for the number of colors of Jogak-bo according to material, silk fabrics Jogak-bo used a variety of colors whereas hemp fabrics Jogak-bo mostly used one color showing contrast between silk fabrics Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones. Second, as for the distribution of colors of silk Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones, warm colors were used most frequently. On the other hand, fewer achromatic colors were used to silk fabrics Jogak-bo, and they were more applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the use of cold colors, fewer cold colors were applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo compared to silk fabrics Jogak-bo. Third, as for the arrangement of colors, various colors were used in silk fabrics Jogak-bo, but a single color or not more than 1 color was applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. It well demonstrates brilliance and glamour of silk Jogak-bo and stability and unity of hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo, most of Jogak-bo showed contrasting colors and shades, and similar colors and shades were hardly found in silk fabrics Jogak-bo whereas they were frequently found in hemp fabrics Jogak-bo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.617-628
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• 2001

Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with brazilein(Caesalpinia Sappan), berberine (Phellodendron Amurense), and shikonin(Lithospermum Erythrorhizon) were stored in the air, in the water, and under the ground for about one year. The change of the color, the flexibility, and the breaking strength were measured at the intervals of few weeks. The results are as follows; 1. The color of the fabrics changed most extensively in the fabrics that were under the ground, then in the order of the ones that were in the water, and in the air. The color of the fabrics changed to the achromatic color over the time. 2. The flexibility change among the dyes was similar. All the fabrics became stiff under the ground and in the water over the storage time. 3. In general, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with berberine showed better strength retention than the fabrics dyed with other substances. 4. The strength retention of cotton fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, in the water, and under the ground. Only minuscule change occurred in the strength of the cotton fabrics. The strength of the fabrics that were in the water and under the ground decreased remarkably after 30 weeks and 20 weeks respectively. 5. The strength retention of silk fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, under the ground, and in the water. In the air, the strength on silk fabrics decreased rapidly after 30 weeks. In the water, the strength of silk fabrics decreased more rapidly than that of the cotton fabrics. Under the ground, the strength retention of silk was higher than that of cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.173-182
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• 2001

The physical properties and biodegradability of cellulose fabrics, such as cotton and rayon, are expected to vary with textile care. In this study cotton and rayon fabrics were washed repeatedly with detergents, bleaches, or softeners. The changes of physical properties were investigated by measuring retention of breaking strength, shrinkage, handle, and the fiber surface was observed by SEM. The biodegradability of fabrics was also estimated by soil burial test. The results were as follows. Cotton fabrics laundered repeatedly by detergents and bleaches lost virtually no strength. The breaking strength of the rayon fabrics decreased by about 17%∼25% after repeated launderings. Shrinkage in weft direction was much larger than that in warp direction. Bending rigidities of both fabrics decreased remarkably within 10 wash cycles. Shear rigidity in cotton fabrics increased continuously with repeated washing cycles, however, that in rayon fabrics did not show any change as washing went on. Friction coefficient increased in both fabrics after 10 wash cycles, and this is thought to be attributed to the wrinkle, interlocking of hairs, surface damage resulted from repeated washings. In cotton fabrics made of staple yarns, short hairs on the yarn surface entangled together with repeated launderings. This resulted in the continuous increase in % shrinkage, shear rigidity, friction coefficient. Rayon fabrics made of filament yarns, however, did not show this phenomenon. Softener treated fabrics showed the lowest values in bending rigidity, shear rigidity and friction coefficient because the cationic surfactants adsorbed on the fiber surface behaved like lubricants. The biodegradability of fabrics was noticeably affected by the composition of washing solutions. The fabrics washed with detergents and bleaches were decomposed faster than those washed with the others were and the cotton fabrics washed with detergents and softeners hardly degraded. The fabrics soiled with milk were decomposed almost completely and those soiled with Palmitic acid did not degrade greatly.