• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2009.05a
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• pp.131-134
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• 2009

본 연구는 가공방법이 다른 투습발수직물의 마찰 속도별 직물마찰음의 소리특성과 주관적 평가간의 관계를 분석하는 것을 목적으로 한다. 스포츠웨어용 투습발수직물 중 가공방법이 다른 4 종(PU 건식코팅, PU습식코팅, 시레가공, 라미네이팅)의 나일론 100% 시료를 대상으로 실험하였다. 마찰속도의 상세 설정이 가능한 직물소리 시뮬레이터 v. 4.0으로 제어가 되는 직물마찰음 발생장치를 사용하여 직물마찰음을 발생시켜 녹음하였다. 직물의 마찰 속도는 동작(walking, jogging, running)시 팔과 몸통 사이의 마찰속도를 분석하여 이 속도에 따라 직물마찰음을 발생시켰고, Sound quality system으로 7 가지(SPL, ${\triangle}L$, ${\triangle}f$, Loudness(Z), Sharpness(Z), Roughness(Z). Fluctuation Strength(Z)) 소리특성을 분석하였다. 주관적 평가는 9 개의 형용사 쌍에 대해 의미미분척도로 평가되었다. 소리특성 분석 결과, 속도별 소리특성은 가공방법에 따른 차이 없이 walking 시가 가장 덜 시끄러운 소리가 발생하였고, 가공방법에 따라서는 마찰속도에 따라 약간 차이가 있지만 라미네이팅가공을 한 시료가 가장 날카로운 소리를 발생시켰다. 주관적 평가 결과, '거슬리는'과 '불쾌한'의 감성에 대해서는 walking, jogging, running의 순서로, 시레가공, 라미네이팅, PU건식코팅, PU 습식코팅의 순서로 증가하였다.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.41-52
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• 2000

한·미 문화간 비교를 통하여 직물의 소리와 촉감이 주관적 감각에 미치는 영향을 고찰하고자 한국인과 미국인 각각 30명을 대상으로 의미분별척도에 의하여 서로 다른 8개 직물 소리의 주관적 감각(부드러움, 시끄러움, 유쾌함, 날카로움, 맑음, 거친, 높음)과 촉감의 주관적 감각 (딱딱함, 매끄러움, 성김, 시원함, 유연함, 까실거림, 무게, 두께)을 측정하였다. 직물 소리의 파라미터로 LPT(level pressure of total sound)와 Δf (frequency differences)를 계산하고, KES (Kawabata Evaluation System)을 이용하여 직물의 역학적 성질을 측정하였다. 직물의 소리에 대하여 ‘부드러움’의 점수가 높고 ‘시끄러움’과 ‘날카로움’, ‘거침’의 점수가 낮은 직물들이 주관적으로 유쾌하게 느껴지는 것으로 나타났다. 직물에 따른 소리의 시끄러움과 날카로움, 높음에 대한 주관적 감각은 한·미 간에 유사한 경향을 보였으나, 한국인은 미국인보다 모직물의 소리에 대하여 ‘부드러움’과 ‘유쾌함’의 점수가 높고, ‘거침’의 점수가 낮았으며, ‘맑음’에 대한 직물별 점수가 다양하였다. 직물의 촉감은 직물에 따른 차이가 더 다양하게 나타났다. ‘딱딱함’과 ‘매끄러움’의 직물 별 감각은 한 ·미 간에 유사한 경향을 보였는데, 한국인은 대체로 미국인보다 ‘성금’과 ‘까실거림’을 낮게, ‘시원함’을 높게 평가하였다. 직물 소리의 파라미터인 LPT와 ΔL이 양국인의 소리 감각에 영향을 미쳤는데, 한국인의 감각은 주로 LPT가, 미국인의 감각은 LPT와 ΔL이 함께 영향을 미치는 회귀식이 성립하였다. 촉감에서 ‘딱딱함’과 ‘매끄러움’, ‘유연함’, ‘까실거림’에 한·미 모두 표면 거칠기가 영향을 미쳤는데, 한국인의 촉감에 대한 회귀식이 더 많이 성립하였고 R2가 높게 나타났다.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.55-70
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• 2022

In the 21^st century, the demand for eco-friendly leather, such as eco-leather and vegan leather, is steadily increasing. This study examines the influence of eco-friendliness on consumers' purchasing intentions and the possibility of eco-friendly changes in the fashion accessory market, which is dominated by leather material and leather substitutes. This study administered a questionnaire survey to 227 males and females between 20 and 60 years of age in Korea. With a 5-point Likert scale, data were collected on evaluation criteria when purchasing shoes and bags and purchasing intention of various leather substitute materials according to the democratic variables. The eco-friendliness attitude was divided into eco-consciousness and green behavior. As the eco-friendly attitude increased, most purchasing standards increased, but the purchasing criteria, such as trends, brands, and prices, did not correlate with the eco-friendly attitude. The eco-consciousness of a consumer had a high correlation with the design evaluation criteria, while the green behavior of the consumer aligned with durability and comfort criteria when purchasing a bag. There was a preference for recycled leather, vegetable leather, synthetic leather, and chemical leather, and the fabric type was ranked as natural fiber, biodegradable fiber, and synthetic fiber. Consumers with both green behavior and eco-consciousness are more likely to purchase biodegradable textiles and vegetable leather for the material of shoes and bags.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.55-64
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• 2017

This study was performed to help the denim fabric planning which reflects the sensibility preference of university students. Objective characteristics, like color properties and mechanical properties, in 8 denim fabrics (5 cotton 100% fabrics and 3 cotton/polyurethane blended fabrics) were evaluated. And the color preference, subjective sensation and tactile preference of denim fabrics were investigated among the university students. The effect of color preference and tactile preference of denim fabrics on the purchase preference of denim slacks was also examined. Color preference of denim fabrics showed a significant difference according to the kind of denim fabrics. University students preferred purple blue denim fabrics that was measured low $-b^*$ value and low $C^*$ value among the color properties of denim fabrics. Among the mechanical properties of denim fabrics, surface property like MMD, MIU and SMD as well as shear property like 2HG5 were important elements affecting subjective sensation. While, tactile preferences showed a significant difference according to the fabrics. The tactile preferences of cotton/polyurethane blended denim fabrics was highly preferred, and that of heavy 100% cotton denim fabric was lowly preferred. And the subjective sensation affecting tactile preferences were in order of smoothness, softness, lightness. It is concluded that the color preference and tactile preference influenced upon the purchase preference of denim slacks, and color preference had a bigger effect upon the purchase preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.13-23
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• 2004

To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.203-212
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective perception of textures, sensibilities, and preference among consumers. This study, then, aimed to provide useful information with respect to planning and designing knitted fabrics by predicting the subjective characteristics analyzed according to their structural properties. For this purpose, we employed statistical analysis tools, such as factor and regression analysis and an adaptive-network-based fuzzy inference system(ANFIS), thereby combining the merits of fuzzy and neural networks and presupposing a non-linear relationship. Through factor analysis, we also categorized the subjective textures into 'roughness', 'softness', 'bulkiness' and 'stretch-ability' with R2=70.32%: and categorized the sensibilities into 'Stable/Neat', 'Natural/Comfortable' and 'Feminine/Elegant' with R2=68.12%. We analyzed subjective textures, sensibilities, and preference with ANFIS, assuming non-linear relationships; consequently, we were able to generate three or four fuzzy rules using wool/rayon fiber content and loop length as input data. The textures of roughness and softness exhibited a linear relationship, but other subjective characteristics demonstrated a non-linear input-output relationship. Compared with linear regression analysis, the ANFIS exhibited had higher predictive power with respect to predicting subjective characteristics.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.17-24
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• 2015

This study investigated heat generation characteristics of knitted and woven intelligent garments made of ZrC imbedded yarns through thermal manikin measurement. These emotional and intelligent thermal characteristics by thermal manikin measurement were analysed and compared with light/thermal radiation experimental results. Surface temperature of ZrC imbedded woven and knitted fabrics by light/thermal radiation measurement was $4^{\circ}C$ and $2^{\circ}C$ higher than that of regular PET control fabrics, respectively. Clo value as heat generation characteristics of ZrC imbedded woven and knitted garments with light exposure was 0.14 and 0.08 higher than that of regular PET control garments, respectively. These results were attributed to the far-infrared thermal radiation from ZrC imbedded in the core part of the intelligent bi-component filament, which was verified by far-infrared emissive power ranged between $6{\mu}m$ and $20{\mu}m$ through FT-IR experiment and by inclusion of Zr through EDS ingredient analysis. However, compressibility of ZrC imbedded woven fabric was lower than that of regular PET one, and bending rigidity was higher than that of regular one, which resulted in a little stiff tactile hand property of ZrC imbedded fabric. We found that ZrC imbedded intelligent woven and knitted fabrics were applicable to the intelligent garment as a heat generation textile material by thermal manikin measurement.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.3-12
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• 2016

The aim of this study is to find the optimal combination dyeing condition for the enhancement of dye uptake and union dyeing of the composite material fabric made of triacetate and quick drying PET blended yarn. For the experiment, fabrics were one-bath combination dyed using the mixed dye of E-type disperse dye(C.I Disperse red 50) and S-type disperse dye(C.I. Disperse red 92) to measure dyed fabric's dye exhaustion, dye uptake, color and color difference according to the diverse conditions including dying temperature, time and mixed ratio of the dye. Dye equilibrium of combination dyeing occurred in $100^{\circ}C$, but by comparing dyed fabrics' K/S value and surface color, it was found that $120^{\circ}C$ was where the manifestation of color of triacetate and quick drying PET was identical. Mixed dye exhaustion and dye uptake merely changed as dyeing time increased, but color became more uniform. Therefore, it can be concluded that by using combination dyeing method, and by using the mixed dye which the mixing ratio of S-type dye and E-type dye is appropriately controlled, dye uptake can be improved compared to using single dyeing regardless of the color of E-type dye.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.65-74
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• 2021

With recent innovations in the ICT industry, the demand for wearable sensing devices to recognize and respond to biological signals has increased. In this study, a three-dimensional (3D) spacer fabric was embedded in a single-wall carbon nanotube (SWCNT) dispersive solution through a simple penetration process to develop a monolayer piezoresistive pressure sensor. To induce electrical conductivity in the 3D spacer fabric, samples were immersed in the SWCNT dispersive solution and dried. To determine the electrical properties of the impregnated specimen, a universal testing machine and multimeter were used to measure the resistance of the pressure change. Moreover, to examine the changes in the electrical properties of the sensor, its performance was evaluated by varying the concentration, number of penetrations, and thickness of the specimen. Samples that penetrated twice in the SWCNT distributed solution of 0.1 wt% showed the best performance as sensors. The 7-mm thick sensors showed the highest GF, and the 13-mm thick sensors showed the widest operating range. This study confirms the effectiveness of the simple process of fabricating smart textile sensors comprising 3D spacer fabrics and the excellent performance of the sensors.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.55-66
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• 2016

This study was aimed to characterize the color of cotton fabric dyed with three different natural resources such as persimmon, citrus, and brown algae and to propose new trend color themes for fashion color planning for newborn and toddler wear. A variety of color shades by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon, citrus, and brown algae respectively was obtained and each color was also determined if it could be matched with one of Pantone TPX considering authorized color trends for 2016 Spring/Summer. Finally a group of new trend color theme for 2016S/S newborn and toddler wear were proposed for naturally dyed cotton fabric. As results, the three natural dyeing resources gave color gamut with hue ranging from Purple Blue to Green Yellow and with tones including pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, and dull by their single and compound dyeing. A total of 23 colors matched to Pantone TPX were considered for the fashion color planning by natural dyeing. The selected natural colors were grouped as three different color ways and thereafter the color ways were differentiated in terms of representative color sensibility by using subjective evaluation. Finally three characterized color themes were proposed as 'Serenity', 'Juicy', and 'Fancy', each of which has tried to express differentiated feeling of each natural resources for dyeing, to follow up to global color trends, and to contribute to newborn and toddler wear's own requirements and marketability. These results suggest that natural dyeing colors could be applied into fashion color planning in current fashion industries in order to produce more sensible and emotional design of fashion goods using natural dyeing.