• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.470-480
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• 2006

Consumer may perceive needs of certain product information online rather than the number of pieces of information available for decision making. In addition, consumers may seek information that is more relevant to apparel category. Moreover, involved consumers intensify information seeking and seek certain information. The purpose of this study is to identify the perceived importance weight of each information cue when shopping apparel via the Internet, to investigate the differences of the perceived importance weight of product information cues in product category, and to examine the relationship between apparel involvement and the perceived importance weight of product information cues. This study employed a single-factor within-subjects design experiment that simulated online purchase situation for two product types, Jeans and a Shirt. A total of 125 college students participated in this study. Results indicated that selected information such size available, price, style, color description, item measurement, stock available, and item quality (in sequence) can be considered as global cues to judge product quality and influence purchase decision regardless of product category. The significant multivariate effects for product category on the perceived importance weight of product information cues were found. Personalization, fiber content, and fabric structure were product specific information cues. Consumers' product involvement significantly influenced the perception of information weight. Therefore, product information can be personalized based on consumer involvement

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.150-162
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• 2014

This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.141-154
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• 2016

The gilt-bronze decorated bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in 1973 at Cheonma Tomb of Shilla are the unprecedented relics in Korean history as it has its original structure. Although the bamboo mudguards were excavated in not only Cheonma Tomb, but also in Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong, all of them remains into pieces. In addition, there are no exact data related with its structure and manufacturing technique. The report deals with the manufacturing technique of the bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in Cheonma Tomb through the naked eye's observation, X-Ray Fluorescence, and Transmission X-rays analysis etc. Bamboo mudguards basically have the three divided structure with central-focus structure of a radiation style. And the mudguards consists of Bratticing gilt-bronze, fabric, and bamboo plates together, as ornamental fringe of 4 plates. The surface of the gilt bronze plates was decorated with a variety of workmanship and pendant. Bamboo plates have a waved pattern by using about three hundred bamboo bark. Two types of textiles were mainly found in the textile plates, and the leather were partially found. In order to combine all plates together, gilt-bronze bottonhead, pendant decoration, and ornamental fringe were used. It would be helpful to study bamboo mudguards during 5th-6th centuries in Shilla period and basis investigations of Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong excavations.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.443-456
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• 2017

The Geumran-gasa (Kasaya) and Jangsam of the monk Samyeong are historical relics and were designated as object No.29, a Buddhist costume of the Joseon Dynasty, by the National Folklore Cultural Heritage, in 1973. In 1984, after being treated for the purposes of washing and preserving the shape of the garments, the object was kept in the Temple Museum of Pyochungsa, as their holding institution. However, regular inspection conducted by the Cultural Heritage Administration in 2013 determined the need for a re-treatment. The Geumran-gasa had been originally made with 25 strips, but it had been separated into two parts and many pieces were lost. A part of the collar in the Jangsam was lost as well. Therefore, both relics needed to be restored. The re-treatment process involved pre-investigation, washing, reinforcement fabric dyeing, restoration, and fumigation. In particular, we focused on reinforcing the damaged parts and restoring the missing parts by applying advanced materials and methods in order to restore the original form as much as possible. This conservation is the result of the re-treatment of the cultural properties by replacing the old material used in past treatments and applying advanced methods under the basic principle of reversibility in conservation treatment.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• no.11
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• pp.87-94
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• 1970

This study was conducted in order to find out the tendency of sericultural woman's clothes. This data was based on random samples of 183 sericultural women throughout the country, and was derived from the investigation of c1othes (western and Korean-style) which had been made during the years, 1967∼1969. The results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. Western-style clothes were about twice as popular as Korean-style, and more evident among the young women. It was also shown that the ratioes mentioned above were gradually decreased year by year. 2. Most popular among the western-style clothes were blouses, one-piece dresses and skirts. Jogori(coat) and Cheema(long skirt) were favorites among the Korean-styled clothes. One-piece dresses showed increasing tendency of use year by year. 3. Costume-made clothes were much more in number than the home-made and the ready-made types. The home-made and the ready-made clothes increased as the ages increased. 4. Western-styled clothes were popular in summer seasons while Korean-styled clothes were popular in the winter time. Among the western-styled clothes one-pieces dresses and two-piece suits were most popular during the spring through autumn. In Korean clothes the Cheema was popular all year round. 5. Western-style clothes were mostly made of polyester and their blends. Silk was the least used fabric. On the contrary, most of Korean-style clothes were made of silk and their blends. The synthetic fibers showed increasing use year by year. 6. Favorite colors were in order; white, blue, brown, and black in western-style clothes; white, blue, green, and gray were in Korean style clothes. Young women teaded to have a wider preference of colors than the older women.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.57 no.1
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• pp.126-144
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• 2024

The chrysanthemum vine pattern box from the Goryeo Dynasty expresses in great detail the representative features of Goryeo Dynasty lacquerware with mother-of-pearl, such as engraving patterns on the surface of fine mother-of-pearl, expressing vine stems using metal wires, and twisting metal wires to form the boundaries of each patterns. While the lacquerware with mother-of-pearl that remains today from the Goryeo Dynasty has the form of a sutra box and a box with lid, the chrysanthemum vine pattern box that is the subject of this study is in the shape of a box with a separate lid and body, making it difficult to estimate the purpose of production or the stored contents. In this study, we attempted to confirm the formative characteristics of the chrysanthemum vine pattern box in order to confirm its original form, and to investigate its structure and production technique through X-ray transmission. In addition, we attempted to identify the use and production purpose of the box by classifying and comparing the previously known lacquerware with mother-ofpearl from the Goryeo Dynasty by type. As a result of the investigation, fabric was confirmed the bottom of body and inner box through X-ray images. Through this, it was confirmed that the 'Mogsimjeopichilgi'(wooden core grabbing fabric technique) of wrapping the object with fabric was used. And through wood grain, it was possible to confirm the wooden board composition of the part presumed to be the restored part and the part presumed to have had existing Jangseog. In addition, it was confirmed that the joints were connected in a Majdaeim(part to part). Based on the survey results, a total of 14 pieces, including 9 Sutra boxes, 3 boxes, and 2 small boxes, that remain from the Goryeo Dynasty were classified by type and examined for similarity. Among them, there is a "Chrysanthemum Vine Pattern Sutra Box" from a private collection in Japan, a "Black Lacquered Chrysanthemum Arabesque Bun Sutra Box" from the Tokugawa Art Museum, a "Sutra Holder" from the British Museum, and a "Small Box with a Mother-of-Pearl Chrysanthemum Vine Pattern" from a private collection in Korea. The pattern composition of five points was most similar to the subject of this study. As a result of comparing the damage pattern, formative characteristics, and structural features of each part, it is presumed that the sutra holder in the British Museum was transformed into its current form from the original the chrysanthemum vine patterned box. Lastly, in order to confirm the purpose of production, that is, the use of this box, we investigated examples of Tripitaka Koreana printed version produced at a time similar to the social atmosphere of Goryeo at the time. Following the Mongol(元) invasion after the Goryeo military regime at the time, sutras appeared to pray for the stability of the nation and the soul of an individual, and with the development of domestic printing and paper in the 13th century, it gradually coincided with the transition from a scroll to a folded form, and the form of a box changed from a box. It is believed that the storage method also changed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1837-1847
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• 2008

The goal of this study is to express the image of chameleons-that change their colors by light, temperature and its mood-into the sexy styles of corresponding coquettish temperamental people in Wearable Art. The method used in this study was experimenting various production mediums, including creating the textured stretch fabric, in the process of expressing the conceptual characteristics of the chameleon in Wearable Art. The concept of the work was a concoction of 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating', etc. that highlighted the real disposition of the chameleon. The futuristic preference of the researcher was also implicated. "Comfortable" and "enjoyable" concepts via motions were improved with the its completeness. The point of the design and production is to express symbolically the chameleon in real life, analyzing its sleek body lines, conditional colors changing, outer skins and the cubic textures. The coquettish temperamental image, the conceptual image of the chameleon, was also expressed by implication into the whole work. The entire line of this work is body-conscious silhouette. It was symbolically selected to image the outline of the chameleon that has the slim and sleek body. The exposed back is intended to express symbolically the projected back bones of the chameleon. The hood of gentle triangle line expresses the smooth-lined head part. The irregular hemlines represent the elongated chameleon's tale. The chameleon with its colors of vivid tones is characterized the colors changing by its conditions. This point was importantly treated in the working process by trying the effects that the colors are seen slightly different according to the light and angles. The material was given the effect that its surface colors are seen different in lights and angles because of the wrinkles protruded lumpy-bumpy. The various stones of red and blue tones are very similar to the skin tones of the real chameleon, and their gradation makes the effect that the colors are visibly changed with each move. The textures of the chameleon were produced via the wrinkle effect of smoke-shape, which is the result of using the elastic threads on the basic mediums stitched with 50/50 chiffon and polyester along with velvet dot patterns. The stretching fabric by the impact of the elastic threads is as much suitable for making the body-conscious line. The stones are composed of acrylic cabochon and gemstone. They are symbolically expressed the lumpy and bumpy back skin of the chameleon and produced the effect of the colors visibly different. The primary technique used in this dress is the draping utilizing the biased grains. The front body piece is connected to the hood and joined to the back piece without any seam. For the irregular hemline flares, leaving the several rectangular pieces with bias grains, they were connected by interlocking. What defines the clothes is the person in action. Therefore, what decides the completeness of clothes might be its comfortable and enjoyable feeling by living and acting people. The chameleon dress could also reach its goal of comforting and pleasing Wearable Art in the process of studying the techniques and effects that visibly differentiate the colors. It is considered as a main point of the Wearable Art, which is a comfortable enjoyable clothing tempered with the artistic beauty.