• 복식
• /
• 제59권8호
• /
• pp.132-151
• /
• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• 복식
• /
• 제66권5호
• /
• pp.149-162
• /
• 2016

This study examines the costume artifacts discovered in the burial site of Choi Kyung Sun(1561~1622), which was moved from Gangwon in Gangrung Province. About 30 artifacts, including costumes, were recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave. The collection of men's coats discovered in the grave consisted of a Dallyeong (Official's robe), Jing-nyeong(Man's coat), Jungchi-mak(Man's coat), Cheolrik(Man's coat), Chang-ui(Man's coat), Gwang-su-ju-ui(Man's coat), and Do-po(Man's coat). Han-sam(Undershirts), Jeo-go-ri(Jacket), and trousers were also recovered, along with several items made of textiles, such as the cloth used to shroud and wrap the body. The costume artifacts recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave have several characteristics that distinguish them from other early 17th-century costume artifacts. Firstly, the body had a hairband made from horsehair. Secondly, the men's trousers were of the type worn before the Japanese Invasion(1592~1597). Thirdly, the style of the coats' sleeves, when compared with artifacts from other regions, was from an earlier era. Through these costume artifacts, it can be inferred that people who lived in the Gangwon Province, which was far away from Seoul, continuously wore outfits from before the Japanese Invasion, and trends spread slowly.

• 보존과학회지
• /
• 제28권2호
• /
• pp.119-129
• /
• 2012

출토복식은 조선시대 복식문화를 알 수 있는 중요한 자료들이다. 그 중에서도 염직물들은 복식의 문화사적 연구뿐만 아니라 보존과학적 연구 및 유물복원을 위해 꼭 필요한 자료들이다. 그러나 매장환경에서 오랜 기간 동안 영향을 받으면서 색은 변퇴색되었으며 발굴 후에도 점차 퇴색되어가므로 본래의 색을 추정하기가 어렵다. 이에 본 연구에서는 적색, 황색, 자색, 청색의 천연염색포 표준시료를 제작하여 고속액체크로마토그래피(High Performance Liquid Chromatography with Photodiode Array Detector, 이하 HPLC-PDA)에 의해 분석하고, 같은 방법으로 출토염직물에 남아있는 색소를 추출하여 분석함으로써 출토직물의 염료분석을 시행하였으며 당시의 색을 추정하기 위해 전자현미경(Scanning electron microscope 이하 SEM)에 연결된 에너지 분산형 원소분석장치(Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy 이하 EDX)를 이용하여 매염제 분석을 시행하였다. 본 실험을 위해 16~17세기 출토직물편으로 대전시 송천동 출토 은진송씨 송문창 출토직물 2점과 대전시 목달동 출토 여산송씨 송희종 출토직물 1점 등 3점을 사용하였으며, 분석결과 alizarin, purpurin, indigo, ellagic acid 등의 색소가 검출되어 꼭두서니-쪽의 중복염색, 꼭두서니 염색, 석류-쪽의 중복염색 등의 결과를 얻을 수 있었으며 매염제로는 모든 유물에서 Al이 검출되었다.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권8호
• /
• pp.1-12
• /
• 2001

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosen period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into temple and excavated fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Concerning fabrics collected in temples. satin was most used, followed by twill, tabby, multiply, leno and gauze and clossing fabrics in order. Tabby and silk fabrics used Ju(紬) as their main material. Cho( ) was much more used in fabrics collected in temples than in excavated ones. This indicate that Cho( ), more luxurious than Ju(紬), had divine applications such as covering Buddha s bones of temples. Brilliant, colorful multiply fabrics using goldern and color threads had high effects of ornamenting altar covers, umbrellas, surplices and palanquins. Fabrics held in temples adapted composite designs, in which more than two shapes were used, rather than single ones. Single designs employed plant shapes in most cases. followed by treasures pattern, geometrical, cloud and animal shapes in order. Most composite designs used a combination of animal and plant shapes, followed by plant and geometry, treasures pattern and plant, cloud and animal, and animal, treasures pattern and plant in order. Few excavated fabrics used animal designs while fabrics collected in temples were often designed with shapes of propitious animals such as dragon. Treasures pattern. representing a good omen of Buddhism, was often used sing1y or sometimes compositely with another design.nother design.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제7권2호
• /
• pp.242-256
• /
• 1999

A Study on the construction of Chulik in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from the excavated grave of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461∼1528) is reported in this paper. This paper first reviews the general construction methodology found in the shrouds from other graves in early 16th century revealed from a report on Chulik from the excavated grave of Kim, Heumjo. This paper finds that there exist at least three different Chulik forms according to the ratios between upper portion and lower portion in Chulik. The upper portion to the lower portion ratio grows with time. Among the three forms, this Chulik of interest falls in the first one of the three forms. This new finding of the chronological evidence for the first category of the three forms provides us the latest chronology for the first category, which is up to the year 1567. This paper also shows that the second and the third categories of Chulik in early Chosun Dynasty lasted until 1580\`s and until 1590\`s, respectively. Several remarks on construction methodology found in the Chulik of interest are also reported in this paper.

• 복식
• /
• 제45권
• /
• pp.29-40
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Heart shaped Earring in old tombs of Three Kingdom States. First Heart shaped Earring is 7 part in according to heart styles. I-A type was original style and that was influenced by scythe style. I-A II-A type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in Kokuryo Pacijae ancient Silla Gaya. I-B II-2-A type was also found in most of the old tombs except Kokuryo. Then II-2-A type was transmitted to Japanese Heart shaped Earring. I-A, I-B, II-1, II-2-A type was general style in ancient Silla gaya. Ii-1-B, II-2-B. II-3-A type was excavated from the only Pacjae tombs and II-3-B type was excavated from Kokuryo tombs. II-3-A, II-3-B type was unique style that was found in old tombs in Kokuryo, Pacjae.

• 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국문화재보존과학회 2004년도 제20회 발표논문집
• /
• pp.75-80
• /
• 2004

We proposed that the replicas be made as an alternative to achieve such reciprocal goals as the safe preservation of traditional costume relics and socio-educational realizations through exhibitions, etc., A replication was categorized for its purpose into a restoral replication a work based on the historical research of color and shapes as they were originally made and a current state replication . a production based on a minute record of the relics as they are excavated Then, we reported the reproduction process from the excavation to the exhibition on the excavated traditional costumes of Milchanggun's Jobok The purpose of a replication of relics is to record the relics experiencing the change resulted from the inevitable degeneration over time as organic cultural assets together with the substitution exhibition of relics and academic researches and so on. Accordingly, the above two methods are to be preceded by a deep and through research and study on the relics of replication. This study on the relics having an important cultural property value presents the preservation of tile cultural assets of traditional costume through the two replication processes and results and a flew pattern of exhibition.

• 복식
• /
• 제61권7호
• /
• pp.17-34
• /
• 2011

This study examined how Bangryeong(方領) had been changed from ancient times in China to the Joseon dynasty[朝鮮] in Korea by analyzing Bangryeong in literature, relics, paintings, etc. Based on this, we also analyzed the form of Bangryeong itself and clothes with Bangryeong using excavated relics from the Joseon dynasty. First, from early Chinese literature, it was confirmed that meaning of "Bangryeong" was a collar attached straight to a garment so that if the garment is put on with the fronts intercrossed with each other the back neck part of the collar is naturally squared. Second, from literature in the Joseon dynasty, it was confirmed that the meanings and forms of Bangryeong were diversified and had different characteristics throughout different time periods. Different from its original meaning in China, Bangryeong came to mean an intentionally designed square shape. Third, Bangryeong from the Yuan(燕) and Ming(明) Dynasties were found among relics excavated in China. Bangryeong from Yuan was Cheolik[帖裏] worn by men, and Bangryeong from Ming was found in women's dresses. Fourth, Bangryeong relics from the Joseon dynasty examines its form in detail. Bangryeong was found in various forms of clothes, and this was consistent with findings from literature review.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제9권4호
• /
• pp.391-400
• /
• 2007

This purpose of this study is to announce the research for the formative characteristics and the constructive characteristics for the 23 pair of pants excavated from the tomb of Yeosan Song's family at Mokdal Dong in Daejeon. Men and women wore the open-type over the close-type pants. Song Hyo-sang and Chungjoo Park wore the 1 or 2 pairs of the open-type pants over the 3 pairs of close-type pants. Song Hee-jong and his wife Sonhung An wore a pair of the open-style pants over the 1 or 2 pairs of pants. It was due to the shortage of goods by the war that Song Heejong had less shrouds than Song Hyosang. The pants were almost made of the cotton and the silk. The open-type pants worn inside was made of the cotton but outside was made of the silk. That time the cotton was used for the unlined underwears for the health and the protection against the cold and the hot. The silk was used for the outwear. In the construction type, 12 pairs of pants were unlined, 6 pairs of pants were quilted, 4 pairs of pants were padded, and 1 pair of pants was lined. All unlined were the close-type and the quilted and padded pants were the open-type, which were worn inside. Lined type was just one. In the wearing order of shrouds, type, textile, and constructive type, Song Hyosang and Chungjo Park were similar, Song Heejong and Sonhung An were similar.

• 복식
• /
• 제62권6호
• /
• pp.218-230
• /
• 2012

The 25 pieces of women's jogori worn by ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) that are preserved in Yeoju Museum, Gyeounggi Province, Korea were examined in this study. The aim of this study is to analyze women's jogori that were excavated from the grave of Changryung Jo's family, and to characterize women's costumes around the middle $18^{th}$ Century. The size of the jogori was divided into two groups. The garment length of the first group ranged from 31cm to 34cm and the bigger size ranged from 36.5cm to 40cm. The number of jogori in the group with the smaller size was twenty-five pieces and five pieces for the group with the bigger size. Changryung Jo's jogori was composed of two pieces of padded jogori, four pieces of quilted jogori and nineteen pieces of double layer jogori. Even though the direction of the margin located on back seemed point toward the right hand side, the gorum, the string for the tie, and the Sup, the outer gore of the jogori located on the other side of the margin had no pattern of direction. The line of jogori from the armhole gets narrower toward the edge of sleeves which could be recognized as a typical pattern of the middle $18^{th}$ Century jugori. The bigger group of jogori seemed to be worn by people other than ChangRyung Jo's relatives and used to be a gifts to aid in funerals. Major characteristics of jogori is could be categorized into the Dangko Mokpan collar jogori and Samhaejang jogori. The results of this study helps set the relative dating for the women's jogori of middle $18^{th}$ Century where not much excavations have been made.