• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.116-122
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• 2018

Dean's equilibrium beach profile formula was used to investigate the correlation between the static shoreline position and the incident wave energy. The effect of the longshore sediment transport was neglected, and the results showed the reasonable agreement compared with the field observations of Yates et al.(2009), which were conducted for almost 5 years on southern California beaches, USA. The shoreline response varies with the scale factor of Dean's equilibrium beach profile. This implies that the shoreline response could be simply estimated using the sampled grain size without laborious long-term field work. Therefore, the present study results are expected to be practically used for the layout design of submerged or exposed detached breakwaters although the further work is required for performance verification. In addition, after laborous mathematical reviews, the linear relation between incident energy and shoreline response, which was obtained from Yates's field study, yielded a clear mathematical equation showing how the beach slope is related to the grain size.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.95-102
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• 1996

The skewness of near-bottom velocity distribution caused by the nonlinear interaction of the second order waves proposed by Wells (1967) has been re-evaluated. The direction of cross-shore sediment transport was related to the sign of the third moment (skewness) of velocity distribution, and a new concept of neutral depth which can explain the recovery of beach equilibrium after a disturbance is suggested. The seasonal change of beach profile due to the change of wave condition (storm-swell profile) is interpreted in terms of nonlinear interaction of the waves rather than the conventional wave steepness. The beach is eroded (storm profile) when the nonlinear interaction of the waves is strong (storm wave), whereas the beach is accreted (swell profile) when the nonlinear interaction is weak (swell wave).

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.16
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• pp.83-95
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• 1996

The equilibrium beach profiles with the effects of random waves and nonuniform grain size in the surf zone are derived from the Thornton and Guza(1983)'s energy dissipation model. The derived beach profiles are the functions of the breaking wave strength, the frequency of the incident wave, and the wave induced-energy dissipation at breaking point. It is not confirmed that the equilibrium beach profiles are better agreement with the measured profiles than the classical profiles. However, the characteristic of the changes of the beach profiles with respect to the breaking wave stgrngth and the frequency of the incident wave can be analyzed which has not been studied by the classical model.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.351-360
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• 2018

The construction of large scale harbor structures at Maengbang beach, which is located on the eastern coast of Korea, is of great concern because it may cause disastrous beach erosion in the vicinity. Therefore, a hydraulic model experiment was conducted to examine the morphological changes after such construction. The water depth was scaled using the method of Van Rijn (2010), which is a well-known scale law, but the results appeared to be overestimated. The present study developed a new scale law that applies an equilibrium beach profile formula to scale the model evolution to the prototype scale. When compared with survey data observed at Maengbang beach, the proposed method showed better agreement than the method of Van Rijn (2010).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.19-26
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• 2000

A numerical model is applied for predicting two-dimensional beach and dune erosion during severe storms. The model uses equation of sediment continuity and dynamic equation, governing the on-offshore sediment transport due to a disequilibrium of wave energy dissipation. And the model also uses sediment transport rate parameter K from dimensional analysis instead of that recommended by Kriebel. During a storm, a beach profile evolves to a form where the depth at the surf zone is related to the distance seaward of the waterline. In general, the erosion in the beach profile is found to be sensitive to equilibrium profile parameter, sediment transport rate parameter, storm surge level and breaking wave height.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.55-60
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• 2000

This paper is descried the experimental results of beach process including storm surge and beach recovery. By testing different surge levels and durations, effects of these to shoreline change were evaluated. In addition of beach recovery were investigated experimentally. On the other hand, we proposed the method, which can be applicable to complex hydrograph such as storm surge by modifying equation proposed by Kriebel and Dean. Moreover, applicability of this method is verified by comparing computing result with experiments.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.101-109
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• 2008

Several numerical models for predicting beach profile changes have been developed by many researchers. Many of the earlier models are known to simulate the erosional profiles with the formation of offshore bar. However, most of the models don't have proper mechanism to incorporate the recovery process of the eroded profiles after a storm and can not simulate the beach accretion with acceptable accuracy. In order to overcome these shortcomings, we propose a new numerical model which has new features to simulate the accretional phase of beach recovery process after storm including such as redistribution of suspended sand particles near the breaking point. The simulation results of the proposed model were compared with LWT (Large Wave Tank) experiments performed at CRIEPI (Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry in Japan) and CE (the Us Army Corps of Engineers) and it was shown to have performed better compared to SBEACH (Storm-induced BEAch CHange).

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.83-92
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• 2004

A continuous monitoring of textural characteristics of surface sediments, sedimentation rates and beach profile was carried out to investigate the seasonal variations of sedimentary processes in the Imjado beach, southwestern coast of Korea for two years. The beach profiles consist of steep beach face and relatively flat middle and low tide beaches. The slope of the beach face increases in summer and decreases in winter, in good accordance with the standard beach cycle. Ridge and runnel systems are well developed in the middle and low tide beaches during the summer, but these structures are replaced by mega-ripples during the winter. The sediments are fining southward as well as landward. The mean grain-size tends to be increasingly coarser during seasons of autumn and winter on the north beach and during seasons of winter and spring on the south one. In addition, the sediments are eroded on the north beach and accumulated on the south one as a whole. These are probably due to southward transportation of the sediments as long-shore current (NE-SW) runs around the coastal line of the beach. However, the seasonal variations in accumulation rates are very complex and irregular. It is considered that the Imjado beach represents in non-equilibrium state, as a result of coastal and submarine topographic changes by artificial agents and sea-level uprising associated with global warming.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.147-164
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• 2015

This study analyzed characteristics and tendencies of seasonal change on shoreline and beach with 8 beaches at East Sea coast by topographical survey for 2 years from March 2012 to February 2013. The shorelines of East Sea coast appeared that amount of seasonal change was bigger than amount of annual change. The seasonal change tendencies between Gangwon-do and Gyeongsangbuk-do coast areas existed some regional differences. To synthesize seasonal changes on 8 beaches of East Sea coast, shoreline advance and beach deposit showed clearly in summer and shoreline retreat and beach erosion showed clearly in autumn. This result is different from tendencies of seasonal change in many mid-latitude coast areas of the world, but generally corresponds with reference studies in west coast and east coast. The major factor of beach erosion showing mostly in summer is storm wave caused by typhoon. The beach erosion by storm wave also occurred in late winter. And it assumes that the beach deposit showing mostly in autumn is result of equilibrium processes of coast area against strong erosion in summer.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to evaluate coastal erosion due to a sea-level rise. The shoreline retreat rate was calculated due to future sea-level rise. Shoreline retreat rates were quantified with the cross-sectional data of 23 sandy coasts (12 sites from east coast, 5 sites from south coast, and 6 sites of west coast) and 3 cross-sectional profiles from each side of the coasts in Korea. The theory of equilibrium beach profile was employed in this study to evaluate the applicability of the theory into the coast of Korea and was tested with 15 cross-sectional beach profiles. Four scenarios of future sea level rise such as 38 cm, 59 cm, 75 cm, and 100 cm were adopted to estimate the shoreline retreat rates. Overall shoreline retreat rates for the coasts in Korea were predicted as 43.7% for 38 cm, 60.3% for 59 cm, 69.2% for 75 cm, and 80.1% for 100 cm sea level rises, respectively. Retreat rates in the east coast (29.6% for 38 cm, 45.1% for 59 cm, 56.0% for 75 cm, and 69.9% for 100 cm) showed relatively low compared to the south coast (51.9%, 67.6%, 77.2%, 87.3%) and the west coast (53.8%, 71.0%, 78.5%, 86.4%). However, all sandy coasts in Korea were assessed to be vulnerable with increasing sea-level rise. There are uncertainties in the assessment of this study, which include the limitation of the assessment model and the lack of the spatio-temporal data of the beach profiles. Therefore, this study shows that it is very important to spend integrated efforts to respond coastal erosion including comprehensive observations(monitoring) and the development of scientific understanding on the field.