• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.651-661
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• 2021

Eruca sativa, called arugula, is a perennial plant in the Brassicaceae family, an edible plant commonly used in Italian cuisine. To study as a cosmetic material application E. sativa was extracted with 70% ethanol (ES). Then ES was fractionated using n-hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, n-butyl alcohol and water (EHex, EEA, ECHCl₃, EBuOH and EDW). EEA showed mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity. ES, EEA and EBuOH showed inhibition of tyrosinase activity. As a result, ES is expected to have skin whitening efficacy. ES was applied to 0.05, 0.1% the toner and emulsion formulation to test the stability. The anti-microbial activity of eight bacteria and fungi including Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes which cause dermatitis and acne was evaluated. EEA showed effects in all of microorganisms. The toner and emulsion containing ES with 0.05, 0.1% were passed in the challenge test. At -20, 4, 25, 55 ℃ and daylight, there was no significant change on pH, viscosity for 4 months. However, emulsions had phase separation phenomenon at 55 ℃, so the base formulation needs improvement. In addition, through the skin penetration test, EEA penetrated 0.058% in 6 hr, predicting the clinical efficacy. This means that E. sativa can contribute whitening agent and the synergistic effect of preservatives.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.9-21
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• 2021

In this study, the difference between the preservative efficacy test (PET) used for water dispersion formulations and PCPC (personal care products council) guidelines alternative test method, direct contact membrane method, and surface mold test should be studied to determine what should be considered during preservative efficacy test of water non-dispersible formulations. We conducted improved PETs when using the alternative test method compared with the test methods used for stick and pressed powder. There was no significant improvement between water-in-silicon emulsions and loose powder using alternative test methods. When we checked the results of the presence and absence of the preservative system for each product, we could see that there were differences in testing methods. As a result, improved levels of results could be obtained using both existing and alternative test methods when measuring preservatives for water non-dispersible formulations. In addition, in the case of stick and pressed powder, the results were more effective when the preservative test method applied to the consumer's method of use was applied.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.47-58
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• 2023

Recently, along with the remarkable increase in interest in microbiome cosmetics, the application of microbiome extracts in the complex efficacy as anti-aging, brightening etc. has become very important. In this study, Bifidobacterium bifidum (B. bifidum), which has excellent anti-wrinkle efficacy among the microbiome, was selected through an in vitro test using cells and 3D human skin equivalents. And the anti-wrinkle efficacy of cosmetics containing B. bifidum was evaluated by clinical test. Thereafter, the cytotoxicity, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle efficacy of the of the bifida fermented filtrate were tested. An emulsion containing bifida fermented filtrate at a concentration of 5% (v/v) with no cytotoxicity and excellent efficacy was prepared with the placebo emulsion. The clinical test was conducted on a total of 21 women at 2 weeks comparing the bifida emulsion and placebo emulsion. Wrinkles around the eyes were instrumentally evaluated using Antera 3D. The wrinkle reduction rate of the Bifida emulsion group compared with the placebo emulsion group differed by 5.6%. Overall, the selection of microbiome using 3D human skin equivalents and the efficacy study of cosmetics with the microbiome extracts would be actively studied to the development of microbiome cosmetics and skin microbiome mechanisms.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.179-191
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• 2009

The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of ethanol on the emulsion prepared by poly(oxyethylene) hydrogenated castor oils (HCOs)/oil/ethanol/water system. Emulsions were prepared using homogenizer as high-energy method. To evaluate effect of ethanol on the emulsion, physical properties such as droplet size and size distribution were determined and other components were almost fixed to analyze the effect of ethanol on the surfactant. In case of HCO-20, the droplet diameter was in micrometers and the droplet size was gradually deceased as the ethanol concentration was increased. The droplet diameter of nano-emulsion containing 4.00 % of HCO-30 was shown in nanometers and its mean droplet size was $128.15{\pm}1.06nm$ and the most stable at the 4.25 % of ethanol contents by the Form. 1 and $136.10{\pm}0.99nm$ at the 3.50 % of ethanol contents by the Form. 2. Similarly, the droplet diameter of nano-emulsion containing 4.00 % of HCO-40 and 4.50 % ethanol by the Form. 1 was $115.85{\pm}0.78nm$ and $121.15{\pm}0.35nm$ at the 3.25 % of ethanol by the Form. 2 and both size distributions were also narrow. Finally, the droplet size of nano-emulsion containing 4.00 % of HCO-60 and 2.25 % ethanol was $262.35{\pm}0.64nm$ and the most stable. The higher ethanol concentrations became the smaller size of emulsion became in the microscale emulsion but we determined nano-emulsion had a minimum size at a certain ethanol concentration. The results showed that the breakdown process of this nano-emulsion could be attributed to Ostwald ripening. This study about effect of ethanol on the emulsion showed that ethanol contents to prepare a stable emulsion could be determined as studying the effect of ethanol on the emulsion with the type of surfactants.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.94-100
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• 2009

This study was carried out to examine the antimicrobial effects of grapefruit seed extract (GSE) and processed sulfur solution (PSS) against human skin pathogens: Malassezia furfur, M. restricta, Propionibacterium arnes, Trichophyton mentagrophytes and T. rubrum. The antimicrobial effects of GSE and PSS were tested by agar diffusion method and micro broth dilution method. As the results, the MIC values of GSE against M. furfur, M. restricta, P. acnes, T. mentagrophytes and T. rubrum were 3.91, 3.91, 0.004, 0.024, and $0.012{\mu}l/ml$, respectively. The MIC values of PSS were 0.03, 0.03, 0.156, 0.003, and $0.012{\mu}l/ml$, respectively. Antimicrobial activity of skin care emulsion products containing 0.5% GSE and 0.5% PSS against human skin pathogens were 5.2, 4.3, 8.0, 9.5 and 12.8 mm, respectively. Refractive index, pH, viscosity and color value of skin care emulsions containing GSE and PSS were measured. According to these results, it was concluded that the GSE and PSS were the promising sources of antibacterial agent which could be useful for skin and hair care products as well as for the alternative medicine development in treatment of certain types of skin ailments.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2016

This study is to make the liquid crystalline structure using sucrose distearate (Sucro-DS) emulsifier to create the hydrophilic type oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, the droplets of the emulsion having a structure of a multi-lamellar structure. We have studied the physicochemical properties of Sucro-DS using those techniques. And it has been studied in the emulsion performance. In order to form the liquid crystalline structure applying 3 wt% of Sucro-DS, 5 wt% of glycerin, 5 wt% of squalane, 5 wt% of capric/caprylic triglyceride, 3wt% of cetostearyl alcohol, 1wt% of glyceryl mono-stearate, 78 wt% of pure water in mixture having the lamellar structure of stable multi-layer system was found to formed. By applying them, they were described how to create an unstable active material encapsulated cream. Further, the moisturizing cream was studied using this technique. It reported the results to the skin improvement effect by the human clinical trials. The pH range to produce a stable liquid crystal phase using a Sucro-DS was maintained in 5.2~7.5. In order to increase the stability of the liquid crystal, it was when behenyl alcohol containing 3 wt%, the hardness at this time was 13 kg/mm,min. Viscosity of the same amount was 25,000mPas/min. After a test for the effects of the emulsions, the concentration of 6 wt% Sucro-DS is that was appropriate, the particle size of the liquid crystal was 4~6mm. It was observed through a microscope analysis, reliability of the liquid crystal changes for 3 months was found to get stable at each $4^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$ and $45^{\circ}C$. In clinical trial test, before applying a moisturizing effect it was $13.4{\pm}7%$. Moisturizing cream liquid crystal was not formed in $14.5{\pm}5%$. Therefore, applying than ever before could see the moisture about 8.2% was improved. On the other hand, it was the moisturizing effect of the liquid cream is $19.2{\pm}7%$. The results showed that 43.3% improvement than that previously used. Applications fields, Sucro-DS emulsifier used liquid cream, lotion, eye cream and a variety of formulations can be developed, as well as the cosmetics industry is expected to be wide fields in the application of the external preparation for skin emulsion technology in the pharmaceutical industry and pharmaceutical industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.353-359
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• 2004

The extent of silica flocculation can be modified by varying the silica concentration, aqueous phase pH, salt and polvmer concentration. High volume fraction W/O emulsion stabilized by hydrophobic silica was established with various aqueous phase conditions for cosmetic application. By increasing the silica concentration up to $1.0\;wt\%,$ the size of droplet decreased. A high silica concentration increased the viscosity of continuous oil phase by network formation, which resulted in target size of droplet. The stability of W/O emulsion is improved as increasing the aqueous phase pH. At low and intermediate pH, the emulsions became more stable by adding salt $(0.083\;mol\;dm^{-3}\;MgSO_4).$ At high PH, the presence of salt caused significant destabilization. The gelation behavior of the emulsion indicates that the effect of salt on silica-stabilized emulsion is derived from an electrostatic attraction. The addition of xanthan gum in aqueous phase increased the mono-dispersity of the W/O emulsion by making water more hydrophobic and hindering the recombination of droplets. In conclusion, these results indicate that very stable emulsifier-free, finely dispersed W/O emulsion can be achieved for cosmetic application by changing the aqueous phase composition.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.211-221
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• 2017

This study was performed to investigate the functional properties and characteristics of Dolnamul (Sedum sarmentosum) as a cosmetic ingredient. Lyophilized sedum powder was extracted with ethanol and stored at $-20^{\circ}C$ for the following experiments. Total polyphenol compounds of the ethanol extract of sedum (SE) was $27.98{\pm}0.34g/kg$(dry weight): epicatechin ($162.14{\pm}5.07mg/kg$), epigallocatechin ($55.99{\pm}2.49mg/kg$), and kaempferol ($47.96{\pm}3.02mg/kg$) were contained in the SE. The SE had organic radical scavenging capacity ($78.43{\pm}1.08%$) and metal reducing power (FRAP value $2.54{\pm}0.12$). FTC and TBARS assays confirmed that the SE inhibited the early stage of lipid peroxidation ($62.03{\pm}0.38%$) as well as the final stage of lipid peroxidation ($55.36{\pm}2.05%$), respectively. The SE (5 mg/mL, dry weight) was proved to have antibacterial effect on the growth of Propionibacterium acnes. The inhibitory percentages of the SE on elastase and collagenase activities were $38.94{\pm}7.09%$ and $78.94{\pm}2.49%$, respectively. Compare to the control group, the SE treated group induced an increase of Col3A1 expression and collagen production ($58.11{\pm}1.07%$). The oil in water emulsion (0.5% SE adding group) showed pH 6.88 and 1.47 g/mL of density. The hardness changes of the SE adding emulsions were not detected during the stored periods at various temperatures ($-20-45^{\circ}C$) for four weeks. It is considered that the SE has antibacterial, antioxidant, and antiaging activities.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.337-342
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• 2005

The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skin care ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils were essential ingredients to make a skin care formulation. But these were still not understood how much concentration(s) were tested on human skin in the aspect of efficacy and sensory. We studied to examine various concentrations of ingredient by cosmetic companies using noninvasive methods. Polyols were composed of glycerol and butylene glycol (BG) as 1:1 ratio, and oils were hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (PTO(R), Stearinerie Dubois Fils Co., France) as 1:1:1 ratio. All compounds were tested $0{\sim}27%dml$ Polyols and $0{\sim}35%dml$ oils in O/W emulsions. We investigated the effect of water contents and the effect of stratum corneum roughness in forearm skin after application of compounds. Water contents of the skin measured by skin capacitance and skin surface roughness measured visual scoring of skin surface biopsy through the scanning electron microscopy. Water contents of the skin were highly related to amount of polyols (to 20%) and oils (to 12%). Correlation coefficients were 0.971 and 0.985 respectively (p<0.01), 2 h after application. Skin surface roughness was positively correlated with polyol contents in concentration dependent manner, and depend on oils up to 6%. The ratio of coefficient was 2.5 to 1 (polyol to oils) by regression analysis. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with ether methods for noninvasive measurement.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.315-324
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• 2015

In this study, we prepared liquid crystal emulsion composed of amphiphilic substance $C_{14-22}$ alcohol, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and studied liquid crystal emulsion of properties and in vitro skin permeation. The results of formulation experiments, the clear liquid crystalline structure was observed in the ratio of $C_{14-22}$ alcohol 0.8%, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside 3.2%, behenyl alcohol 4% in the formulation. The results of physical property measurements, the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion and O/W emulsion applied as a control group was respectively $1871.26{\sim}1.15Pa{\cdot}s$, $1768.69{\sim}1.14Pa{\cdot}s$ and the shear stress of O/W emulsion was 178.68 ~ 909.18 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 190.45 ~ 919.38 Pa. The storage modulus of O/W emulsion was 3428.53 ~ 9157.45 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 4487.82 ~ 8195.59 Pa. The tan (delta) value of O/W emulsion which means a ratio of viscosity to elasticity was 0.43 ~ 0.19, and that of liquid crystal emulsion was 0.23 ~ 0.25. The water content value on the skin for liquid crystal emulsion was significantly higher from 1 h to 6 h compared with that of O/W emulsion and the transepidermal water loss on the skin was significantly superior in skin moisture loss suppression from 30 min to 4 h compared with that of O/W emulsion. The results of skin permeation using glycyrrhizic acid, the result of skin permeation amount of liquid crystal emulsion for 24 h was $64.58{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of O/W emulsion was $37.07{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of butylene glycol solution was $41.05{\mu}g/cm^2$. Hourly permeability results, it is showed that skin penetration effect of the liquid crystal emulsion increases after 8 h. These results suggest that liquid crystal emulsions are effective for skin moisturizing effect and function as potential efficacy ingredient delivery system for the transdermal delivery.