• 복식
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.135-146
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권8호
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• pp.69-81
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to design high school boy's uniforms, which fit well and express the traditional aesthetics of Korean clothing. Korean traditional clothing is getting ground for the use as active wear as well as formal wear such as wedding or special holiday clothing. This is partly due to the introduction of western clothing in Korea because of the practical nature of this type of clothing. This study was carried out as follows: 1. First, 197 high school boys from 5 different high schools were surveyed. All of these schools use Korean style school uniforms. The survey asked the students about their satisfaction with the current designs, problems and design preferences for Korean style high school uniforms. In general, the boys are not satisfied with the aesthetic and fashionable aspects of their uniforms. 2. The second survey dealt with design preferences from a variety of design options of Korean-style school uniforms. The design options were presented to the students as in the form of 10 different types jackets and 6 different types of pants. Using the results of the second survey as a guideline, the designs of Korean style school uniforms were developed. 3. In order to make the test garments, a block bodice pattern for the Korean style school uniforms was developed. Using the developed bodice block pattern, 6 designs were made of wool. The 6 test designs consisted of 3 different types of jackets and 3 different types of pants. 4. Incorporating the most preferred design features, school boy Korean style school uniform designs were developed. The characteristics of the design include neck line opening and its finishing, AH and sleeve shape, embroidered traditional patterns and fastenings. In this study we were able to develop comfortable clothing, which expressed the traditional aesthetics of Korean clothing.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.171-191
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• 2016

Lady Han, Gongshin-buin(恭愼夫人韓氏: 1410~1483) was Gongnyeo of Ming emperor and sister of Han Hwak(韓確:1400~1456). The aim of this study is to analyze the characteristic of costume presents for Lady Han, and to investigate a part of Joseon women's attire in the 15th century. Most of the presents for Lady Han were native products of Joseon to help alleviate her homsickness, but surviving relics are very rare. The costume-related presents included daily accessories and fabrics such as natural ornaments, embroidered pouch, needle case, wig, wooden comb, portable knife with multi-blades, various colored plain silk [綿紬] and ramie. Also, preceding research analysis of costume relic were combined with study of presents for Lady Han's. The most salient costume of Joseon women in the 15th century was the symmetric collared jacket. In addition, ornamented jeogori, pouch with pine nut stitch, chima, jangot, jangsam, black veil[羅兀] made with ra or jeung, glass beads, paintings of Ming and Joseon can be references. Illustrations show 6 representative type of Joseon women's full attires in the 15th century are as follows. First, is a combination of 'symmetric collared jacket with peacock rank badge, jeoksam, chima, underwear' and 'hoa-a, janga-a, embroidered pouch, needle case, knife with multi-blades: presents for Lady Han'. Second, formal wear focusing on symmetric collared Jacket of cloud pattern. Third, formal wear focusing on multicolor ornamented jeogori. Fourth, town wear with jangot and neoul. Fifth, formal wear with jangsam. Sixth, daily wear focusing on banbi with symmetric squre collar. Accessories and underwear shown in another illustration were same as the first illustration. Results of this study can be used as content for making historically accutate costumes as well as costume education.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.87-100
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• 2007

In the Joseon Dynasty, a Court Ladies' full dress was Slanted by the Ming Dynasty. Since the Ming Dynasty had declined, a Court Ladies' full dress, Jeok-ui began to be made by the Joseon Dynasty. It was based on the Chinese Court Ladies' full dress, Desam, but it became Joseon's own style, which was different from the Chinese one. The formula of Jeok-ui was completed in the time of King Yongjo. Since then, Jeok-ui for big ceremonies was called Bub-bok. It was recorded on the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon. The color of Jeok-ui was departmentalized for the wearer; red one for the Queen, bluish black one for the Crown Princess, and purple one for the Queen mother. There were some differences between Jeok-ui for feasts and for big ceremonies. In the case of Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, the pattern of Hyung-bae for the Queen was a dragon with five claws, and for the Crown Princess, a dragon with four claws. On the other hand, in the case of Jeok-ui for feasts, the pattern of Hyung-bae was phoenixes for the Queen, Crown Princess and the Queen mother. The number of embroidered round badges, which were attached to Jeok-ui, was 51 for big ceremonies, and 36 for feasts. The skirt for big ceremonies was a Jeonang-ut-chima with dragons pattern for the Queen, and phoenixes for the Crown Princess. The Queen's skirt for feasts was a Jeonang-ut-chima with phoenixes pattern, and the Queen mother's also. The Crown Princess' was a double skirt with phoenixes pattern. The pearls were not decorated on the shoes for big ceremonies, but shoes for feasts had six big pearls fer decoration. When the royal woman wore Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, it was prepared for Kyu, Pe-ok and belt with jade. But those were not necessary for Jeok-ui for feasts.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.156-169
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to develop lightweight, stretchable, tight-fit smart sportswear using the conductive yarns into the garment and demonstrating its usefulness. Sportswears with the ability to control LEDs with respect to lighting of the surrounding were developed by applying embroidery with conductive yarns to 2 types of men's T-shirts and 2 types of women's leggings pants for outdoor activities and exercise purposes. LEDs were applied to the front and back of men's T-shirts and to the rear of the waist of women's leggings. Men's T-shirts were printed where the LEDs were to be applied, and inside, they were embroidered with conductive threads on the hot-melt fabric to be attached, and then connected with LED. Women's pants were embroidered on the elastic band, in the form of a sine wave that gives it ability to stretch, and finally the elastic band was hidden inside the waistband. The operation of the light sensor in the dark provided the ability to protect joggers from night drivers or cyclists. LEDs were activated when the wearer turns on the fashionable device on his/her shoulder by pressing it. It was able to reduce the risk of accidents by giving recognizability to vehicles, bicycles, and athletes approaching or passing by at night, and securing safe distance from vehicles, etc. Internal embroidery technology had the same flexible and lightweight functions as ordinary clothing products, making it possible to apply to tight-fit smart T-shirts or leggings pants designs.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.135-151
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• 2009

This study aims to estimate the chronical year of 'Euiin'-Park's clothes excavated costumes from the tomb of 'Lady Euiim-Park's which has been stocked in Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. The methods of this study is, observed structure and style of clothes and characterize and compared with other similar clothes excavated from other tombs. The result showed Park's clothes was estimated to be from the mid to late 16th century. The elements that enable us to estimate the period are first of all the wearing of women's Dan-ryung, and the shape of the gore and sleeve. Second the shape of Jegory's collar, and Gyron-ma-gi. Third the form of layered skirt and Somaja[hat]. Fourth tiger hyung-bae which embroidered patches on the breast and back of official uniforms. Last, the style and types of Jinju-Ryu's who's the spouse clothes. It will be useful to estimate the chronical year of clothes excavated from unidentified tombs when refer this styles of clothes.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.104-116
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• 2004

Kanga is a type of cotton clothes with splendid patterns that East African women throw on their bodies. It first appeared in the East African shores in the mid-nineteenth century. A new style of squared handkerchiefs brought to Africa by Portuguese merchants for the first time was referred as to leso of which early designs were in a basic form of white dots on dark background. Consumers called such material by kanga as they began mentioning its craftiness and comparing its elegant nature to a sociable red rooster and graceful feathers. From the early 1990s, Swahili characters have been embroidered in designs of kanga, mainly consisted of proverbs. Kenya's kanga products are widely known and well represented whereas Tanzania makes the best use of it for political and social events. Fascinating and practical kanga has established its position as an essential part of East African cultures that is being well received as a fashion style there in these days.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.940-948
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• 2000

This paper analyzed the collections of Dries Van Noten and found the influences of oriental ethnic costumes. The oriental looks which he had shown in his collections are followings : Largely, the menswear designs of Van Noten took the concept of an easy and loose style which is a common shape in oriental ethnic costumes. Especially various transformations of layered look were found in his collections. Design ideas of Van Noten's womenswear style included variations of a sarong style, a kimono style, and etc. Also in his womenswear collections, various styles of layered look were shown. He often used lustrous fabrics like satin, brocade, and damask which are driven from the oriental region. His collections had Chinese dragon-or flower-pattern, Japanese geometric pattern, and Indian henna pattern. The patterns were embroidered or gilded.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.127-135
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• 2003

Woon Kyun was one of the shoulder cloth worn by both men and women during Won(원) Dynasty. The distinet features of Woon Kyun was that it had cloud-form embroidered on chest, back and both shoulders respectively and the front of it was opened. It also glitterinyly decorated with five different colored embroidery inserted with gold thread. 26 Woon Kyun out of 59 men demonstrated on the miniature of ≪Jipsa≫ were selected and analyzed according to the historical periods, class and sex. The results of the study showed that there was little change on its forms and patterns and people wore it without specific differentiation. The common patterns of embroidery used were various kinds of animals and plants, however, plants seemed to be more preferred.