• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.124-146
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• 2023

This study analyzes the characteristics of each element of neo-deconstructivist fashion design and examines fashion expression methods and techniques. This study combines theoretical research and case analysis to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of neo-deconstructivist fashion and the expressive characteristics of neo-deconstructivist fashion. Through analysis of previous research, the aesthetic characteristics of neo-deconstructivism were derived as inclusiveness, playfulness, communication, and intertextuality. Inclusivity in fashion refers to including various people, body types, aesthetics, and cultural backgrounds in the scope of design, and does not limit the scope of clothing design based on individual differences such as body type or gender. Playfulness is a neo-deconstructive fashion brand that combines exaggerated makeup, vibrant colors, intriguing designs, and imaginative fashion shows to spread upbeat and playful ideas. Communication in neo-deconstructivist fashion demonstrates communication through the use of creative themes and items that reflect consumers' needs through design and the consumer's fashion presentation method. Through the mutual quotation of aspects like traits, status, T.P.O., and materials that can reveal opposing texts, intertextuality emerged as a tendency to break up binary oppositions or break away from genres. The expressive qualities of neo-deconstructivist fashion design were examined and applied to the creation of innovative fashion design through examination of the case's silhouette, color, and material. Six sets of women's clothing were designed and produced. The results of this study can be used as basic data for the development of neo-deconstructivist fashion design, and are expected to provide a wide range of inspiration for fashion design ideas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.17-32
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• 2013

This study examined the visual elements of the Trompe l'oeil design and the combination conditions of each element in order to deduce the form generation diagrams of Trompe l'oeil fashion design. The following is what the study found: First, Trompe l'oeil fashion design can be divided into two based on its subject: 'the combination of internal elements of dress' and 'the combination of external elements of dress'. Looking at the visual components of each type, depending on the subject, 'the combination of internal elements of dress' design was achieved by combining internal dress elements: including textile, detail, item, accessory, layering, etc.. In case of 'the combination of external elements of dress' design, the object of Trompe l'oeil was expanded in scope to environment, which includes the actions of a wearer. Second, as for Trompe l'oeil fashion design through the combination of external dress elements, the condition to combined visual components of the work in the process of creation was related to 'the popularity of object', 'the similarity of shapes and sizes', and 'the probability of location'. Third, deriving a form generation diagrams of Trompe l'oeil fashion design was very effective in delineating specific relationships and conditions, directions among elements combined in fashion design.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.11-21
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• 2007

In this study, we will analyze the artistic character of Jogakbo as a element of fashion art design. Korean traditional Jogakbo is a common homemade item made from clothing remnants and is a part of the culture of women�s quarters. Currently, Jogakbo is higly regarded for its artistic value and it finds a variety of uses in fashion. In particular, it is striking how its modern-style geometric lines and color composition are congruous with abstract art. In applying Jogakbo to fashion art design, we study the artistic expression of Jogakbo in 4 aspects; namely, line, color, material, and technique; and analyze the 4 artistic characteristics; beauty of naivety, simplicity, moderation and freedom. 8 dresses designed based on these 4 characteristics are presented as examples.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.38-51
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to offer data that designers can utilize substantially, by developing creative materials in knit fashion through the analysis relevant to expression characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture, which were shown in knit fashion of contemporary women, as one of methods of pursuing a plan for being able to be appeared creative and unique knit wear. As for a method of this research, studied concept and characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture by preceding researches. And women's knit fashion was selected that is seen to be 3~18 gauge among the world's 4 collections from 2000~2008. The analysis was made with the analytical frame in mixture pattern, and the analytical frame in design element, and item. The results are as follows. The mixture of kidult element and high fashion was shown with characteristic of expressing humor and fun with graffiti, expression like character and cartoon, and fairy-tale fantasy through the exaggerated trifling article. The mixture of grungy element and high fashion was shown with the expression characteristic in the mixture of heterogenous pattern, and in tear, slit without the end treatment due to fraying the end strand in the knit fashion with basic stitch, patch work, fringing and tone-down gray, use of khaki and blue color, and match in opposite color. The mixture of underwear and high fashion was shown the expression characteristic with the emphasis on underwear line like volume up, or with the mixture of details such as pants in diverse lengths, mini skirt, underwear lace, and ribbon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.1 s.12
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• pp.14-23
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• 2007

Hanbok had the history of more than 2,000 years, so Hanbok represents the traditional Korean style of dress design. Since 1980's, Hanbok has been changed to be suitable for contemporary society with diverse titles such as reformed Korean clothes, living Korean clothes, contemporary Korean clothes, and fashion Korean clothes, etc. However, Korean clothes of such a new style have not overcome a limitation in traditional styles in terms of design. In this regard, it is necessary for us to try to have the world fashion industry recognize the fashion look of 'Korean style' through the contemporary fashion of Korean image and to pursue the globalization of Korean style through this fashion. This study is firstly to review the characteristics of Korean beauty, secondly to examine the concept in Korean fashion design, and thirdly to iud out the characteristics of contemporary Korean fashion design through the study of successful cases. The characteristics of Korean beauty can be classified into natural beauty, abstract beauty, and humorous beauty. Korean beauty shows the nature and the life of Korean people, and it should make people aware of the character and the tradition of Korean culture. The Korean fashion design is the one that utilize the Korea's unique sentiment or sense of Korean beauty that has been succeeded from the ancient to the present into fashion design by way of visual element like design, color and texture. And the successful Korean fashion designs were the universal fashion designs that enable Korean culture to be hewn to the world through fashion and that enable the entire world market to agree and to accept Korean style. In order to create the global Korean design, it is necessary to assimilate the Western style to Korean style and newly create it into a compromised form. And it is necessary to look for a universal sense of Korean beauty that could be accepted by the people of the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.705-715
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• 2020

The domestic fashion industry of the middle and late 20th century emphasized the importance of a standardized design process; however, the values of differentiated brand individuality have become increasingly important with the qualitative·quantitative growth of designer brands. Therefore, paying attention to designer individuality (or a differentiated element of a designer brand growing up in the domestic fashion industry) this study reestablished factors of the designer brand individuality. An in-depth interview was conducted with 13 designers and consumers for empirical analysis. In order to identify concepts of designer individuality based on the theory of the brand personality by Aaker along with precedent studies, the study devised a theoretical frame to explain a conceptual structure of designer brand individuality as well as reestablish its factors as the designer individuality, design and non-design factors through empirical research. Empirical research derived the designer individuality factors as an external designer image, designer taste, design philosophy and designer personality. Design factors were derived as concept, working process and method, style and formativeness. Non-design factors were also extracted as wearing experience, wearer image, lookbook image, fashion shows and exhibitions. It is meaningful that little empirical research has been conducted on domestic fashion designers who actually run designer brands and that this study helped understand designer brands through a new approach called designer individuality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.154-170
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• 2016

The female leadership styles in the 21st century have been established as a major axis. Especially, the fashion of female politicians being exposed to the public during political activities has become a main element of a measure displaying visually female leadership styles in the 21st century and image making as well. Consequently, this study conducted qualitative research through the interview method to figure out regular voters' thoughts in depth about images being required for female political leaders and the fashion maximizing those images, and drew the detailed design elements. Suggesting the clothes design reflecting those elements for female political leaders by 3D virtual clothing works emerging as a new market creating profits related to fashion. The images which female political leaders have to have and were extracted through the interviews in this study, showed as feminine, strong leader, honest, and intelligent images, and also it was shown that female political leaders displaying proper images depending on the circumstances and using those images in politics rather than sticking to a fashion identity were favored by interviewees. The present study intends to contribute to being used as basic data of various research and fashion items of virtual reality and establishment of successful fashion strategy for female political leaders.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.351-363
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• 2015

This research explores diachronic fashion design trends through a structure analysis of a connection network based on fashion show concepts implemented by modern fashion designers from S/S 2009 to F/W 2013. The findings from this research are as follows. First, four categories affect the inspiration and thinking of design: the experience of the designer, social atmosphere and phenomena, natural sensitivity (or formative characteristics of natural objects), and the influence and quality of other fields. Second, in cases where the designers' experiences influenced design inspiration and thinking, designers express personal memories with keywords like high school, grandmother's closet, prom, beauty and the beast, heritage, past, and reminiscence through design elements such as lines, silhouettes, materials, and colors. Third, the representative example of the social atmosphere and phenomena that influenced design inspiration and thinking was the 2008 Global Financial Crisis that reflected the social climate through design concepts of keywords such as Recession, Black, Economy, US, Depression, Gray, Dark Age, White and New York. Fourth, inspired by nature and the formative characteristics in design, the designers employed ornamental elements to collections and design concepts that focused on nature words connected to light, sun, wild, dirt, rock, moss, and trees. Fifth, the designers took their ideas from different fields of personal interest in the arts, science and humanities (sports, architecture, sculpture, painting, and literature) that were decisive in determining materials, design colors and silhouettes. The theme of architecture was analyzed as a central element that had an ongoing impact on the concepts of designers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.21-34
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop a new Korean fashion design using forced-relationship techniques and the traditional hanbok Korean dress and Korean traditional images as the source of the ideas. The research methods consisted of literature research and design production. In the literature research for the hanbok composition and design elements, the concept and type of forced-relationship techniques were studied. The design development process was as follows. First, 'Developing a Korean fashion design' was set as the design theme. Second, the composition and design elements of hanbok and Korean motifs, which consist of Korean images were set as fixed elements of the forced-relationship technique. Third, among the various trends in keywords, 'punk' belonging to a subculture, was set as an arbitrary element of the forced-relationship technique. Fourth, the punk fashion design elements and items were listed. Fifth, a rough sketch was performed by selectively combining fixed and arbitrary elements. Sixth, a design evaluation process was conducted to select the designs out of 52 design sketches that fit the purpose of the study. Seventh, a total of six designs were selected after making design modifications. Through this, a total of six works of women's clothing was designed, made, and presented. This study offers the possibility of developing new Korean fashion design images, and a chance to share designs based on different cultural elements in the global market.