• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.450-467
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• 2014

Modern society attaches great important to state of the technology, but, unconscious desire and subconscious are also discussed in an important value. In the social background of such madness is acting as an artistic inspirational to the many people. At such a time, fashion photographs also being used medium which speak for people's desire. Editorial fashion photographs with unusual stories or including experimental visual elements unlike fashion advertising have increasing. The subject of this study is the formative characteristics in recognition of madness from ancient times until now and find out new meaning of the unusual and informal form of editorial fashion photographs showed in Vogue Italia since 2000. The analysis data of this study, we used 36 photographs of editorial fashion photographs taken by Steven Meisel, Tim Walker and Miles Aldriege. The final process of analysis made in with agreement of 10 major people. We used photograph's basic visual elements as analysis to avoid arbitrary interpretations. The content of this study is drawing in editorial fashion photographs from the viewpoint of Michael Foucault's Madness theory, Deleuze and Felix Guattari's Madness as the aspects of desire. The madness images in the editorial fashion photographs were showed as Decadence, Blindness, Violence and Grotesque based on the analysis results from above. The formative characteristics of editorial fashion photographs enabled the awareness on the value and importance of madness in modern society. These editorial fashion photographs can be the source of our wider perspectives for changing recognition of madness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.37-47
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• 2014

Recently, the Korean wave has caused many foreign nations to pay attention to various fields including Korean culture, arts, fashion and beauty. Korean images so far were mainly discussed in terms of aesthetics, and there is lack of efforts to visually shape Korean images. On the contrary, Oriental images focused around Japan and China have greater global influence and better globalized fashion styles compared to Korea. Therefore, it is necessary to suggest a globalized proposal of Korean fashion styling which reflects original and unique aesthetic characteristics of Korea that can be accepted by the global market. In this study, the concept and types of fashion styling and stylists were examined, as well as the definition of Korean image and types and characteristics of Korean images shown on fashion magazines. Also, after collecting photographs having Korean images that were included in the editorial fashion styling of Vogue Korea, their characteristics were analyzed. The results of interviews with professional fashion stylists were summarized to propose an editorial fashion styling with Korean image for overseas consumers who long for and wish to imitate Korean fashion styling.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 1998

In this study fashion illustrations published in American Vogue from 1960 to 1989 were investigated. Among the large number of illustrations published in American Vogue in this period a considerable number of illustrations was chosen: from 1960 to 1969 143 editorial illustrations and 333 advertisement illustrations; from 1970 to 1979 34 editorial illustrations and 168 advertisement illustrations; from 1980 to 1989 123 editorial illustrations and 81 advertisement illustrations. In studying those illustrations the main point was put in finding characteristics and the changing trend of fashion Illustrations. In the sixties editorial fashion illustrations were published mainly during early sixties. The Illustrations of Rene Bouch, Evelyn Marcil, Dagmar and Eunice Moore Sloane took the space of editorials. Among those Illustrators Bouch published most frequently. The companies such as Galey & Lord, Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf Goodman, Bonwit Teller etc. used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The name Kenneth Paul Block, Babara Pearlman and Dorothy Hood can be found very frequently on the illustrations for those companies. Antonio Lopez too published in 1963 some advertisement illustrations. In the seventies the total number of editorial fashion illustrations diminished drastically compared to the number in the sixties. Antonio published in 1973 and 74 fifteen illustrations, Joe Eula published from 1976 to 79 thirteen illustrations, and beside them Mats Gustavson published in 1978 six illustrations. The number of advertisement illustrations decreased a little, but many companies used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The illustrator who worked most actively were Block and Fred Greenhill. In the eighties editorial illustrations experienced a "Renaissance". New high-level illustrators appeared and new fashion illustration magazines were found. Antonio played a central role among illustrators published for editorials in Vogue. In addition to him 15 other illustrators including Mats and Eula with various styles worked for editorials. In contrast to the flourishment of editorial illustrations the number of advertisement illustrations decreased compared to seventies as a result of the domination of fashion photography in this area. Today only few fashion illustrations can be found in fashion magazines. The magazines are dominated by fashion photographs. However fashion illustrations will not totally perish from fashion magazines, because it still has some valuable functions in fashion advertisement. Those functions cannot be fulfilled by photography. Therefore fashion illustration will survive in fashion magazine but playa minor role compared to photography.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1261-1273
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• 2010

The advent of various arts and remarkable development of mass media since 1980s accelerate fashion photographs' advancement. The expression of fashion through photographs can represent characteristics of ages, societies, cultures, traits of designers and techniques of photographers. In addition, that is the tool which contains economical role as a product and artistic role as photos. Therefore, this study examines hyprt-reality images in editorial fashion photographs. Hyper-reality means the reproduction which represents the reality of life more actually. Hyper-reality through photographs elevates reality of virtual things and creates the confused situation which haunts the boundary between reality and reproduction. This study classifies the hyper-reality in editorial fashion photographs into three groups by their external traits, ideal reality, collapse of reality, and restoration of reality. First, ideal reality is represented as harmony among fashion, characters, and space, causality of fashion with time and circumstances, positive will, and melting with nature. Second, collapse of reality is expressed as in harmony between fashion and situation, violence, fetishism and symbol of death. Third, restoration of reality is shown as recurrence to nature and images of utopia to express dignity of life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.24-36
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• 2006

The consumption became a virtue of social in 20th century, and this consumption culture created an ideal body image through mass media. Sexual image became a new standard of 'beauty' in a modern fashion, and designs which expressed sexual image appear every season. Individuals were fascinated with some parts of human body. These body parts are different based on the time period and the culture that the individual belonged to. This study focused on the erotic body parts and expression on the editorial fashion photography. Eroticism represented in the editorial fashion photographs can be divided into the expression by clothing design and by creating erotic atmospheres. Erotic expressions by clothing design can be presented by 1)exposing directly 2)exposing indirectly 3)emphasizing the body parts. The most frequently presented erotic body parts in fashion photographs were legs(25%), followed by the bodice with breast (21%), the waist (16%), the hip (12%), neck & shoulder (10%), arms (9%), and abdomen (7%). The results indicated that legs were considered to be a erotic body parts often than the traditionally referred erotic body parts, such as bodice with breast or hip. While direct exposing method (e.g., adhesion, see-though) was frequently used for other body parts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.143-154
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• 2007

This study's purpose is how express gender image according to sex in editorial fashion photography. This study's objectives are the women's magazine Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and man's magazine GQ, Esquire published 2000-2005 within the country. The photography was classified with established a standard based on the precede studies. The photo is classified Gender image according to dress and its ornaments, model character and atmosphere by Sex Expression of femininity woman has exposure of body parts and emphasizing thin eyebrows and red lips, soft and mild image, modest and static pose. Man expressed femininity used ladylike color and pattern, erotic exposure of body and long hair style. Commonly emphasizing red lips, natural background of flower plant, S-line. For expression of masculinity man and woman are used masculinity item, short hair-style and thick eyebrows. And also emphasize square like chin and shoulder. Specially, woman used direct silhouette to conceal soft body curved line. The expressions of androgynous woman and man are colorful dress and make-up. Woman emphasized male face to show and man expressed soft image through hull of abundant material of fur. All two sex selected method that conceal body curved line and face to express sexless. Hiding characteristics of body and face make indistinct of sex. The gender is affected by atmosphere such as model and illumination background as much as clothes because of the editorial fashion photography.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.96-113
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• 2020

A new form of media is changing the expression and content of fashion. In this paper, fashion films that have appeared since 2010 - when digital fashion communication was increasing - will be discussed and explored to consider how technological transitions in fashion media are changing the appearance and role of fashion. A literature review was conducted to derive characteristics, types, and expressive elements of new media fashion films, which were defined for this study as fashion films produced and distributed since 2010 using digital media. Films were categorized into three types: promotional, editorial, and independent fashion films. Furthermore, elements of the films were identified as fashion mise-en-scene, auditory structure, and content structure. Types and expressions of digital fashion images in 40 fashion films were analyzed according to these elements. The results showed that promotional fashion films maximize various narrative and sensory effects on fashion products, whilst editorial fashion films strengthen the role of entertainment. Independent fashion films expand the area of fashion and promote the diversification of fashion systems. Moreover, the results show that fashion films are not a secondary form of media that just expresses fashion; they provide a tool for the creation of new fashion content. New media fashion films promote the expansion of expressive spectra and boundaries, offering various multisensory experiences of fashion, and enhancing creativity and the aesthetic values of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.111-127
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• 2016

The study aims to examine the forms of 'image expression' and utilization of model poses in fashion photos, and to delve into the characteristics and the intents that make certain model poses effective in expressing an image. The study used the fashion photos in the fashion magazine, Vogue, to analyze the different model poses used to express different images. The results are as follows. First, image expression forms in fashion photos were categorized into 'direct product suggestion expression form', 'sensual image expression form', 'sexual image expression form', 'story telling expression form', 'everyday situation expression form', and 'fantastic image expression form'. The different utilization types of model poses were categorized into 'type utilizing intangible elements', 'type utilizing complicated elements', 'type utilizing living organisms', 'type utilizing props', 'type utilizing clothes', 'type utilizing location', 'type utilizing accessories', and 'type utilizing products'. Second, the most common expression form for fashion photos used in advertisements was the 'direct product suggestion expression form', which was followed by the sensual image expression form. The most popular form used in the editorial fashion photos was the direct suggestion product expression form, which was followed by the story telling expression form. Third, the most common model pose type for direct product suggestion form was the 'type utilizing product'. Fourth, 'direct product suggestion expression form' was mostly used in editorial fashion photos. The most common utilization types of model poses were 'type utilizing clothes', 'type utilizing props', and 'type utilizing place'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.86-100
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• 2015

This study is to investigate the relationships between heel height and macro-economic factors - recession and unemployment; and to analyze the time lags reflecting economic factors on heel height index using U.S. data. The life-history evolution theory was applied to propose the relationships studied. The data for the heel height measurements of women's shoes - pump style only - were obtained from US Vogue fashion editorial sections on spring and fall editions from 1950 to 2014. I divided the heel height by the length of the shoes in order to standardize the data. Total of 1581 samples were used, and heel height data were aggregated to create a yearly average. To explore the relationships between macro-economic factors and heel height, this study used OLS of Stata 13 program. The main findings show that unemployment rates influenced heel height for three years in a positive direction. Furthermore, the effects of unemployment rate from two years ago on the current heel height were very close to being on a significant level.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.