The purpose of this study was to establish the proper amount of eases according to the body type of men's bodice basic pattern. The 3 subjects in 30's men were selected for developing fitted pattern for each type. And the results of the wearing test for individual subject by distributing ease amount are as follows. The wearing test is administrated by a division of 12cm, 15m, and 18cm areas respectively after separating the fitted pattern for each type in a vertical and horizontal ways. There exists a significant difference in ease according to the measures of chest circumference of subjects. Also, it is shown that the more comfortable in function, the better visible in appearance as the ease gets proper. As to regions, the amount and ratio of ease chest circumference are increased in proportion to the size of the chest circumference. The scye depth is affected by the ease of chest circumference, while the ease of the interscye and the back breadth are lessened due to the effect of their appearances. And the side breadth is required as a buffer to complement the shortage of the interscye and the back breadth because the ease of either the interscye or the back breadth is partially transferred in motion.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.16
no.2
/
pp.15-29
/
2014
Setting the ease amount takes the important part to the fit that consumers satisfies. Therefore, it is required to create a pattern for off-the-rack jackets that considers the proper amount of ease. However, few studies have been done previously regarding the ease amount of jacket pattern for the women in their 20s whose demand for jacket is high and who are sensitive to the fit. Therefore, this study selected top five brands in terms of sales and preference among the national female apparel brands. It obtained a tailored jacket pattern for basic size (55 size) and made the jacket. Then, an expert panel group put the pattern on Hani body, a torso dummy for education made by the anthropometric data of Size Korea for females in their 20s and conducted an evaluation on the ease amount and analyzed the results. As a result, the ease amount of the Pattern A was evaluated as proper and that of the Pattern B was found to be lease proper. From the fact, we can see that each of the top 5 off-the-rack brands has different ease amount, though they are of the same basic size (55 size).
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.27
no.5
/
pp.485-495
/
2003
This study was to compare and analyze the clothing pressure according to arms movements of 4 brands jacket for middle-aged women group by measuring clothing pressure of each brand. The results were as follows: 1. According to the analysis of jackets of 4 brands, in general, jacket C had the largest ease amount. while jacket A had a large ease amount in waist, hip areas compared with bust area. Also jacket B had a small ease amount in bust, waist areas and jacket D had a small ease amount in hip areas. Therefore the ease amount is different between each brand, each size even though jacket designs are similar. 2. It was found that clothing pressure was affected by arm movements than jackets. Since this study was limited to the arm movement for motion variation, it was recognized that a significant difference among each jacket and each movement at shoulder, waist parts existed with relation to this motion. 3. Parts showing a significant difference among each size were bust point, abdomen point, center back point of abdomen level, angulus superior scapulae point and center back point of waist level. Also clothing pressure of size B91 was bigger than size B88 except Center back point of waist level. 4. Clothing pressure in shoulder point, front armpit point, back armpit point, upper arm point areas increased as the angle of the arms movement increased. Also, individual variation of clothing pressure in front armpit point, back armpit point, armpit point and upper arm point was large, and clothing pressure in abdomen point was high in M5(sitting posture).
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.29
no.1
s.139
/
pp.91-102
/
2005
The purpose of this study was to investigate the range of variation for commonly accepted ease in a business jacket and thus to find solutions to the problem of fit and ease in ready-to-wear jackets. This study was based on anthropometric measurements, pattern measurements, which were used to calculate ease amount according to each jacket part. The survey subjects were 493 males, between 25 to 59 years old, buying a jacket at stores in Seoul. In the results, the aesthetic purpose of a business jacket(custom-fit jacket) was clearly observed by the means of controlling the ease amount at chest, waist and hip. The ease at chest and waist(ready-to-wear) clearly revealed a difference among prototypes. This result can be explaned by the regular drops and the similar length-width proportions between sizes in ready-to-wear Jackets. Therefore, customers with varying body drop differences, who had to choose a homogeneous jacket drop, experienced too much ease at the Waist and Hip compared with custom-fit customers. In addition, the height could be an integral factor to affect the ease of jacket length and sleeve length. The ease at these parts was significantly different among height groups and showed negative relationships.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.42
no.5
/
pp.786-798
/
2018
This study is based on anthropometric data from the 7th Size Korea, we selected five subjects with measurements similar to average women in their twenties. The subjects participated in adaptability assessments and appearance assessments of skinny jeans produced by 8 selected brands, to identify the pattern and measurements characteristics of jeans assessed to be superior in appearance and movement adaptability. The results of this study were as follows. First, according to the results of appearance assessment made by the specialist group, B brand earned the highest assessment in response to questions regarding if 'there is an appropriate amount of ease in the crotch area' on the front side and 'an appropriate amount of ease in the hip circumference area' on the back side. Based on the above results, Synthesizing the survey results and the appearance assessment and movement adaptability assessment results, we suggest that when drafting the pattern for the standard size of waist measurement 27 inches (67cm), the hip circumference should be given an appropriate amount of ease, of around -6.6cm (-7.2%). The thigh circumference should be set with an appropriate amount of ease, which is -5.3cm (-9.4%).
This study was carried out to examine the calculations including the ease amount for bodice pattern. The conclusions were as follows. The areas that were required the ease amount were the horizontal reference line, armhole depth, back & front width. According to this result the calculations including the ease amount were obtained as follows: B/2+4.1cm for horizontal reference line, B/6+6.8 cm for armhole depth, B/6+3.9 cm for the half of back width, B/6+2.3 cm for the half of front width, B/4+4.3 cm for bust point length.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.14
no.4
s.36
/
pp.274-280
/
1990
This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.
The purpose of this study was to research the purchasing patterns and the ease amount of woman's T-shirts. For the study, 215 women between the ages of 18 and 59 were surveyed. 18~34 year old women had more T-shirts and wore them more frequently than 35~59 year old women. Women usually gave weight to design, fabric, fit and color, when they bought T-shirts. The most important fit part was different according to age groups, 18~34 women valued T-shirts length but 35~59 women valued bust circumference ease. The ease of T-shirts was analysed with body sizes. Shoulder ease were distributed between -3~3cm, neckline designed apart 0.5~7.0cm from side neck point, 0~11cm from front neck point and 1~2cm from back neck point. The means of bust ease, waist ease and hip ease were 6.2cm, 14.7cm and 4.5cm. The bust and waist ease were significantly different between age groups and 35~59 year old women wore more tightly at both parts due to their thick torso. Women accepted smaller ease at hip while didn't want small ease at waist. The eases of shoulder, bust and T-shirts length were the most important and influencing.
It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.30
no.4
s.152
/
pp.582-594
/
2006
The purpose of this study were to develop snow-board lower wear with improved functionality. The study consisted of figure out appropriate ease amount of snow-board lower wear and make products by applying it to pattern design. The results of this study were as follows: On the basis of the analysis of snow-board lower wear on market, 2 pieces of experimental snowboard lower wear were designed, produced, and evaluated the patterns of with different ease, and snowboard lower B for experiment was proved to be better. Snowboard lower wear was produced and evaluated for experiment 2 by giving additional ease to specific parts. Therefore experiment 2 was presented pattern, ease, and size of snowboard lower wear with improved functionality. Sizes and ease of snow-board lower wear for presentation. waist circumference - 96.0cm(l6.4cm, 17.1%); hip circumference - 127.0cm(31.3cm, 24.4%); pants length - 112.0cm(9.6cm, 8.6%); crotch length - 90.0cm(26.8cm, 36.4%); thigh circumference - 78.0cm(23.4cm, 30.0%); knee circumference - 62.0cm(24.7cm, 39.8%); turnup circumference - 62.0cm(36.0cm, 58.1%). Above mentioned sizes and ease of lower wear are medium size(M) for male.
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