• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제12권2호
• /
• pp.139-148
• /
• 2010

As a designer, Rei Kawakubo had become one of the most influential woman of the 20th century. Comme des Garçons, which means "like boys"-what women in the early 1980s were least supposed to be-expressed criticism of the prevailing social construct of women and, importantly, of the very concept of fashion. The press had a field day with the so-called post Hiroshima look, with its aesthetic of destruction, poverty, and hunger and with its depressing mood engendered by the use of the color black. This research divided the change of design transition on Kawakubo's fashion by the three categories. The first category was experimental pattern, the second category was esthetics of omission and the third category was innovation of body consciousness. The costume messages through these design works of Kawakubo could summarize 5 items, punk sprit, beyond sex, reality, proposal of new body consciousness and representation of black.

• 복식
• /
• 제36권
• /
• pp.239-262
• /
• 1998

The pursuit of freedom by the individual--desire to be liberated from all forms of restrictions-- is one of the defining character-istic of the modern society. As costume is, in part, a product of the spirit of the times, it was only natural that this desire for freedom would find its expression in modern costume as well. Among various forms of restrictions, differentiaton by sex has placed one of the most significant binding influences on individual behavior. From early times, the dichotomous division by sex was incorporated into the disign of costume, and the traditional differestriction of costume by sex imposed a significant restriction on the background,“the modern androhynous look”was born as a by-product of the sexual liberation movement in the second half of the 20th century, based on the concept of the individual as a complete human being rather than as a member exclusively of either the male or the female sex. This paper seeks to examine the androgynous look within a coherent theoretical frame-work, and explore new design possibilities by analyzing and understanding the visual characteristics of the androgynous look. In addition, this paper seeks to define the functional aspects of the androgynous look based on the premise that costume is an embodiment of the spirit of the times. As for research methodology, both theoretical and historical methods are employed. Through a theoretical examination of historical documents, the meaning of the androgynous look is explored from various angles, and order to examine its place in modern fashion, an-drogynous styles are categorized and system atically analyzed. The main findings of the paper can be summarized as follows : 1. Androgyny is a compound word consisting of“andro-”(meaning man) and“gyn-”(meaning woman). In modern times, this word has been associated with the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical or physiological aspect with the pshchological characteristics of the male and female sexes. Androgynous styles also appear in fashion and general arts such as drama, film, dance, and music. In fashion, the androgynous look, represented by the visual superimposition of “masculine”and “faminine”elements, has emerged as a major element of the 20th-century costume, and has gained broad acceptance among those free spirits wishing to be liberated from the conventional conceptions of male clothing, and the unisex look. 3. The androgynous look in modern fashion reflects the spirit of the 20th century society and culture, and performs various functions as follows : expression of fun, change in gender roles, expression of the inner consciousness, and pursuit of the ideal human type.

• 복식
• /
• 제31권
• /
• pp.189-202
• /
• 1997

Movie is one of the most popular culture ac-tivities in modern society and the composite rt of science and art born in the 20th century. Movie became the great source of setting the fashion. Especially movie costume brought into relief and was accepted by the mass. As a movie stimulates imitation psychology and identification of the general public in fashion. The purpose of this study is to analyze the effects of the movie costume to a modern mass fashion. The times was defined the movies from the early Silent era to the modern Hollywood movie from the late of 1910 to 1990. The way of study were to analyze on the changes and roles of movie costume through documentary records and the influence of set-ting the fashion to the mass fashion and classi-fied it five times-silent era classics neo-classics new look and modern times. The summary of result is as follows, 1, Movie costume affected the dress and the fashion of women is Silent era. That fashion was accelerated by actors' costumes in the mode of 1920. 2. Holloywood movies in the Classics show the essence of the fashion movie costume played a role of a fashion leader and commanded the trend of mass fashion. 3. Practical style was shown because of the war in the Neo-classics. Movie industry was prosperous after the war. But the consequences of the movie costume to the mass fashion were more and more weaken 4. Couture designer's costume had an effect on the mass fashion in the early of New look. But it was behind the fashion for the rise of young fashion. 5. The tastes of the fashion were diversified in Modern times. So the movie fashion was not imitated or popular. The costume of "Pret-a-porter" was used in the movies in the 1980. Spectators became to wear the same style of the actors. The times fashion and movie interacted each other. Movie costume is playing a role of a fashion leader guiding the mass fashion.s fashion.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권4호
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.

• 복식
• /
• 제63권2호
• /
• pp.29-44
• /
• 2013

This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.

• 복식
• /
• 제38권
• /
• pp.51-72
• /
• 1998

Futurists objected the existent style, that is the conventional fashion, and took part in these disciplines of fashion to make clothes the instruments being able to represent the individuality. Giacomo Balla and fortunato Depero, pain-ters who in 1915 were to work with Diaghilev's company, were the first to see clothing as a dynamic interfaced between th body and the atmosphere, between physical gestures and the urban context, which could be translated into encounters between forms and colours, volumes and architecture. For them, clothing began to exist as an object and an event, something to be removed from a mainly static conception and made mobile, active. The interaction between movement and clothing was based on the relativity of perception : the appearance and disappearance of the body produced points without dimension or duration which served, as Balla wrote in the Futurist Mnaifesto of Men's Clothing to“renew incessantly the enjoyment and impetuous movement of the body”. The historical achievement in the effort for the reformation of Futurist, Art to Wear. First, for Futurist, clothing is removed from a static conception and focused on dynamics. Second, Balla used asymmetry in men's clothing. Moreover he supposed dynamic men's clothes by using optical intersection. Third, the after image of Chronophotograph represented rapidity. This rhythmic expression is the fore-runner in Optical and Kinetic Art of Visual Art. Fourth, Futurist emphasized flexibility in fashion. They aimed to create‘Clothing Machines’whose parts would interact to aceelerate the real and virtual, inner and outer movement of the human being. Fifth, the variety and short life of cutting skills and colors are focused and‘Fast Substance’in fashion is admitted by Futurists. Futurist concern with clothing was not lim-ited its appearance in terms of cut and colour. What important was also the way it appeared and disappeared according to fashion. It was a“fast substance”, able to reflect rapid, sudden changes of social and aesthetic taste. To reach to the aim of internationalization, Gesamtkunstwerk in our Art to Wear, it is extremely meaningful to examine art fashion which is created under the conception of Gesamtkunstwerk production of avang garde artist in the early 20th century and look at formative conscious of truth, goodess and beauty synthetically which they faced on their works of art.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제5권2호
• /
• pp.103-113
• /
• 2003

This paper analyses the geometric aspect of Sonia Delaunay′s works on the basis of design elements and principles. Geometric pattern is one of the distinct features of early 20th century avant-garde works. The significance of its pattern and colour comes from the fact that it has not only influenced the contemporary fine art but also offered the basic principle of modern costume design. In 1925 she was designing clothes which could be worn today without appearing old-fashioned. She foresaw the future trends in fashion and interior decoration. One might claim she belongs to the avant-garde even today and no less astonishing a phenomenon than she was in 1925. Sonia Delaunay′s art was one of the first expressions of abstract painting and her "simultaneous contrasts" are among the earliest example of the aesthetic. In Delaunay′s geometric abstraction it is found that the technique of "simultaneous contrasts" is exploited almost without exception. Colour as well as Collage was the favourite technique Delnaunay used in creating a distinct simultaneity. Many "inobjective" paintings as she herself called unite the rigour of simple geometric forms with an inner life and poetry which emanate from the richness of the colour, the musicality of the rhythm, the vibrant breadth of the execution.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권3호
• /
• pp.62-75
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine how fine art is received in fashion, and to contribute to the development of a creative fashion culture. In order to do this examination, this study focuses on the formative ideas of De Stijl which appeared in the early 20th century. In addition, this study presents examples of today's fashion that still reflects the formative ideas of De Stijl. The De stijl movement did not last for a long time, but it has had significant influence on modern art, and has been a source of inspiration to fashion designers since the Mondrian look was presented by Yves Saint Laurent in 1965. The study on the basis of De Stijl such as Neo-Plasticism of Piet Mondrian and Elementalism of Theo van Doesburg, has been conducted in this study. As a result, this study presents formative characteristics of the De Stijl group in fashion as follows: First, contemporary fashion designers have searched for proportion and thickness of lines and the side split using lines, a stylistic trait of an artist in the De Stijl group. Second, color scheme defined by the De Stijl group has been applied with modification to contemporary fashion. Modification and selective choice of the limited colors are for a contemporaneous style. Third, formative ideas of De Stijl, which strives to achieve the vision of Utopia, has turned up in contemporary fashion as a simple and minimal silhouette. Contemporary fashion has enhanced their aesthetic value by deriving not only a superficial expression but also plastic principle and philosophy from De stijl. It can be regarded as the fashion's ideal way to embrace style of art and it might be so described as a key to edifying artistic and creative attributes of fashion.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제24권6호
• /
• pp.839-853
• /
• 2016

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance "Victory Over the Sun" was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. "Victory Over the Sun" did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in "Victory Over the Sun", and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on "Victory Over the Sun" from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on "Victory Over the Sun". and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권7호
• /
• pp.19-31
• /
• 2015

Futurists put forward creative fashion by combining art and functionality. This led to a new aesthetic approach in how we view modernized industrial cities. Ernesto Thayaht, a futurist, introduced the "Tuta", which was simple and practical clothes. Tuta expressed the imagination and aesthetic values of Futurism. The characteristics of the Tuta were categorized into the following: Form, Colors, Materials, and Details. The results of examining its characteristics as follows: Tuta had a linear and simple planar pattern, which could be made with one cloth. The same modernized urban colors were used for the top and the bottom. Practical Materials, such as cotton and linen were used because they were easy to wash. Tuta excluded unnecessary ornaments, and only included functional details that would allow for comfortable movement. These design characteristics of Tuta revealed functionality, popularity, modernity, and innovativeness of formativeness. Tuta presented a new model of fashion in the early 20th century and completed the modernization of clothes. Tuta reflected the democratic and equal spirit of the era by innovating and overcoming the structure and form of conventional clothing.