• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.447-457
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• 2003

The shape of womens breast is the most important part of body silhouette. For the high-fitted clothes, in particular, more refined brassiere effective enough to show the beautiful line of female breast is asked. This study focuses on comparing the difference of the two different textiles of brassiere as to their effectiveness as a brassiere. The Stockman Lingerie Mannequin made by England is used for the draping method for the brassiere pattern. Two different brassieres of stretchable and unstretchable(cotton) textiles respectively were made out of this pattern, and the difference of effectiveness wearing the two brassieres was compared. 30 females ranging in the ages of 19 through 24, and whose size is 75A were selected as the test group who are to wear them. The result of each measurement proves that the cotton brassiere is more effective than the stretchable brassiere as a whole considering center concentration of breast, projection of breast, and bust up function. The result of the test on satisfaction of wearing brassiere was also in favor of cotton brassiere as to projection effect, bust up effect, making a good shape of bust. For the cup, in particular, unstretchable textile is more effective for making a breast look better.

• Composites Research
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.6-11
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• 2011

This paper presents an estimating method for local property changes and failure prediction of composite materials experiencing large shear deformation during draping process. The bone plate for the metaphyseal femur fracture was chosen to apply the presented method because it has complex geometry. The local property changes due to macro-/microscopic deformations of fabric composites during draping process were evaluated by various tests and the result was applied to predict static/fatigue behaviors of the bone plate. This paper was expected to present useful information on the design of composite structures with complex geometry and their performance evaluation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.148-153
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to manufacturing of personal dress form by replica method for draping. The objects were physical body and personal dress form of their torso somatotype. Comparing the measurements of Martin method and of sliding gauge method to examine the fitness of dress form. Dress form was found bigger than physical body. This was due to the transformation in processing that wrap a Suck-Go bandage and pack a polyurethane foam. On the basis of the result, manufacturing of personal dress form and foundation by draping, it was wearing done test on the physical body, through the procedure that investigate the possibility of usage and the manufacture of personal dress form.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.445-454
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• 2008

The existing baseline taping methods were not applicable sometimes according to the body shape of dress form and they were often dependent on the personal ability and knowledge of modelist. It is very important to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms which have different body size and shape. It helps to communicate about clothing design and patternmaking between designer and manufacturer, and it also makes students to understand draping easily. So this study was performed to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is easier and has consistency of taping result regardless of body shape of dress form. First, the existing 7 baseline taping methods were compared with 3 kinds of dress form which are reflecting different body shape and different age. Especially the location of baselines and landmarks which are important for draping are analyzed. Second, the new baseline taping method was developed with reference to the existing baseline taping methods, the standard body measurements of 2004 Size Korea and flat patternmaking. The standardized method for 12 landmarks and 11 baseline was suggested. Third, the appraisal group has performed baseline taping with both the existing method and new method on 2 kinds of dress form. The new method was superior to the existing method in uniformity of taping results as well as the degree of difficulty of taping. Development of the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms would make draping easier and be useful for both apparel industry and academia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.6 s.96
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• pp.109-124
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• 2005

The object of this study was to identify the production technique and immediate constituent of lingerie by examining the materials and the sewing techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of lingerie are analyzed based on photographical materials. From the late 20C century to the present time was the research time period. This paper concludes as follows: 1 Decorative method: Lace, Ribbons, piping, elastic bands were some of the decorative materials attached to the garments by zigzag stitch. 2. Flat pattern making: Lingerie patterns were drafted in smaller size than the patterns of outer garments. Bias cut would be applied for the noll-stretchable fabrics. 3. Draping: Bias grain would be applied for the non-stretch fabric. When draping stretch fabrics, follow the grain line of the fabrics and pull the fabric so that it could fit onto the body. 4. Production technique: Straight stitch would be applied for non-stretch fabrics. Zigzag stitch would be applied for stretch fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.10 s.212
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• pp.179-190
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to apply the three dimensional Replica method to the fabrication of dress forms of plus-sized women to attain proper ease through draping and based on the ease to develop good torso patterns with superior fit. The results were as follows. The physical characteristics of the dress forms of plus-sized women were divided into two: Types I and 11. The proper ease was calculated through draping using dummies of each somatotype and appropriate torso patterns were developed. The differences of the types for each pattern were as follows. The bust girth ease of Type II was 6cm as for Type I. As for the bust breadth 1.0cm was added to the anterior chest width, the armpit width was the actual measurement plus 0.5cm, and the back breadth was the posterior chest width plus 2.5cm. The bust breadth was smaller and the back breadth was bigger that those of Type I after improving the bust and back fit. The bust of Type I protrudes outwards relatively and so the shoulder dart of front-side of Type I was 1.2cm bigger than that of Type II which improved the bust region fit. Considering the characteristics of the protruding abdominal region the front- side waistline of type II was assigned W/4+3.5cm and the back-side waistline W/4cm, so that the sidelines divided the front and back properly. It was drafted so that the center-front became diagonal, thereby improving the middle-hip girth fit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.61-76
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• 2016

The importance of environment has come into focus recently, and this has led to increased attention on zero waste fashion design as a method to minimize waste from the production stage of fashion goods. The purpose of this study was to analyze the development method types and the characteristics of zero waste fashion design in order to study the eco-friendly meanings of zero waste fashion design, as well as its meaning as creative design development methods. Through the case analysis of recent designs, the design types of zero waste fashion design were largely classified into cut and sew, folding, draping, and non-woven types, and they were classified again according to the characteristics of production process. According to the result of analyzing fashion design development methods of zero waste fashion designs based on the process of completing design, they were classified into pattern making, computer programming, draping, assembling of the unit, and non-woven moulding methods, and the aspect of combined use rather than utilization of one method appeared. Formative characteristics of zero waste fashion design included decorative beauty, formative beauty, and transformable beauty and its design characteristics were fortuity and unexpected properties, breaking stereotypes, structural flexibility and futuristic innovation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.68-77
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• 2002

In this study, based on Choi, Jong Rim's script (2000), the main characters' stage costume designs were presented with 15 illustrated pieces in terms of compounding the images of Korea and West. I considerered the main characters' social status and personality by each act and scene, as well as the correlation of the stage costume's minor theme, color and material. In expressing the stage costume, this study has chosen the formational method of the comparative design dimensions between costumes in 1650s Joseon and baroque period and used the joinder of flat pattern and draping in various parts of the costumes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.26-37
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• 2007

Madeleine Vionnet(1876$\sim$1975, France),the most prominent figure of the 20th century draping, started her apprentice in France in 1888 and expressed feminity of adult products through her various works until she closed the house in 1940. The feminine designs of the adult style appeared in 1930s, whose characteristics were silhouette and details that emphasize the body, and bias designs. Not only Vionnet, but also Chanel and Schiaparelli were the representative female designers at that time. The preliminary researches of Vionnet designs were mostly focused on her cutting methods. This paper purports to examine Vionnet's bias cutting method, to compare Vionnet with female designers of Chanel and Schiaparelli who led the mode of 1930s with feminine designs for the adult products in that period, and then to attempt creative designs by use of bias cutting.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.105-113
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern of scuba diving suits for local men in their thirties by using 3D body-scanned data. It is widely acknowledged that draping method is more suitable than flat pattern for body shape as most scuba diving suits in the market are designed to fit the body tightly in a single piece with sleeves and legs. A dummy for this study was made based on men's standard clothing sizes in 30's which was derived from data of 2004 Size Korea. Accordingly, the basic body block was built upon through draping method. Next, a scuba diving suit was made from neoprene, followed by fit and the clothing pressure tests in order to evaluate the diving suit's functionality and comfort. The results of the fit test had high points of 4.33 in majority parts except armhole and crotch ones. In comparison of clothing pressure between wearer and dummy, the clothing pressure of wearer was indicated relatively low in most parts other than armhole and knee, resulting from cushion function of skin and muscle and high stretch of fabric.