• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
• /
• 제2권4호
• /
• pp.250-258
• /
• 2012

The distribution of wave heights is assumed to be a Rayleigh distribution, based on the assumption of a narrow band and Gaussian distribution of wave elevation. The present study was started with doubts about the narrow band assumption. We selected the wave spectra widely used to simulate irregular random waves. The wave spectra used in this study included the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu spectrum, and JONSWAP spectrum. The directionality of the waves was considered. The cosine 2-l type directional spreading function and mixed form of the half-cosine 2-s type with Mitsuyasu type directional spreading are considered here to investigate the effects of a directional spreading function on random waves. The simulated wave height distribution is compared with a Rayleigh distribution.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
• /
• 제4권1호
• /
• pp.28-36
• /
• 2000

Numerical simulation based on the superposition of ring waves generated by the linear periodic source distributions for the plunger type wave maker was accomplished. The characteristics of directional spreading function were investigated. Mirror images are also introduced to consider reflections of side-wall together with the reflection coefficient to account for the imperfect reflection from the real side wall in the long experimental towing tank. Unexpected spurious waves, resulting from the combined effect of finite breadth of segmented wave maker, wavelength and main wave maker, wavelength and main wave propagating direction, were observed in the line source method and also in the analysis of the directivity. The influence of spurious waves to the directional spreading function was also investigated.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
• /
• 제25권1호
• /
• pp.28-33
• /
• 2013

해안선에 비스듬히 입사하는 다방향 불규칙파랑은 굴절에 의해 방향 비대칭성이 발생한다. 방향 비대칭은 최대 방향분포 매개변수($s_{max}$)와 연관된 비대칭 매개변수의 항으로 표현된다. 본 연구에서는 심해에서 다양한 주파향각과 최대 방향분포 매개변수 등의 특징을 갖는 다방향 불규칙파랑에 대해 수심 변화에 따른 비대칭 매개변수와 최대 방향분포 매개변수의 변화를 계산하였다. 계산 값들은 파랑의 방항 비대칭성을 무시한 Goda and Suzuki(1975)에 의한 결과와는 다르다. 비대칭 매개변수와 최대 방향분포 매개변수의 계산을 위해 JONSWAP 스펙트럼(Hasselmamn et al., 1973)과 Lee et al.(2010)의 방향 분포 함수를 사용하였다. 계산 과정과 결과들은 일반화를 위해 심해에서의 유의파고, 첨두주기, 첨두주기에 해당하는 파장 등으로 무차원화 하였다.

• Ocean and Polar Research
• /
• 제25권4호
• /
• pp.437-446
• /
• 2003

Field measurements of directional waves were carried out during the summer of 2002 at two coastal sites in water of finite depth. A couple of general purpose instruments were used employing acoustic Doppler technology. The aim of the study was to investigate the spatial behavior of the directional movement of waves as they come ashore. In total,74 tests were carried out during which sea states of low to moderate intensity were recorded. A great number of these runs displayed bimodal characteristics of the spreading function at high frequencies. It was found that in general, the frequency-integrated directional width tends to broaden as the water shoals and when refraction effects are negligible. This is attributed to wave-wave interactions that become pronounced in shallow water. The same directional width showed, also, a tendency to increase with increasing peak frequency of the sea state spectrum. The behavior of the kurtosis of the spreading function was also examined. It was found that for higher frequencies this index tends to increase in wave spectra above a certain sea severity threshold.

• Ocean and Polar Research
• /
• 제40권2호
• /
• pp.87-98
• /
• 2018

It is widely known that infragravity waves can exert significant influence on wave run-up over beaches. Large run-ups can lead to overwash, flooding and severe coastal erosion. In spite of the importance of infragravity waves in relation to wave run-up and coastal erosion, few studies have been carried out with regard to the impact of infragravity waves on nearshore morphodynamics with respect to eastern beaches in Korea. The purpose of this study is to investigate the importance of infragravity waves in nearshore numerical modelling. For the study, XBeach model was set up to analyze morphodynamics in December 2016, in Ilsan beach which is located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan Metropolitan City. After validation of the XBeach model, numerical experiments were conducted by using various directional spreading coefficients. As the directional spreading coefficients are increased, the effect of infragravity waves is also enhanced by narrowband frequency. With the increasing effect of infragravity waves, the amount of sediment transport is also increased and an erosion dominant pattern is found in the south part of Ilsan beach and a deposition pattern in the north part of the beach mainly due to the wave incident direction of NNE.

• 대한조선학회논문집
• /
• 제38권2호
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2001

본 논문은 소오스 분포법(Source Distribution Method)을 사용하여 측벽 반사효과를 고려한 수치파수조에서의 방향스펙트럼파의 재현과 규칙파로부터 구해진 조파기의 진폭 전달함수를 적용시켜 부산대학교 예인수조에서 실험적으로 재현한 장파정 불규칙파 및 방향스펙트럼파에 대한 연구결과이다. 수치적 재현의 경우 최적의 조파기 설계를 위하여 파 주기의 변화에 따라 조파판과 수조폭을 변화시켜 방향분포함수의 변화를 고찰하였다. 실험적 재현의 경우 장파정 불규칙파와 방향스펙트럼파에 대해서 수조의 길이방향 변화에 따른 파워 스펙트럼 및 통계적 특성치를 비교하여 그 차이점을 살펴보았다. 방향스펙트럼파의 경우 방향분포함수의 변화도 살펴보았다.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
• /
• 제19권1호
• /
• pp.29-37
• /
• 2007

본 연구에서는 고유함수전개법을 사용하여 다열 불투과성 수중방파제를 통과하는 다방향 불규칙파랑의 통과와 반사를 계산하였다. 입사하는 다방향 불규칙파랑은 Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu 주파수 스펙트럼과 Mitsuyasu 타입의 방향스펙트럼을 사용하여 재현하였다. 첨두주파수의 Bragg 반사 조건에서 강한 반사가 발행하였다. 수중 방파제가 3열이고, 상대높이가 0.6일 때 입사하는 다방향 불규칙파 에너지의 25% 이상이 외해로 반사되었다. 그리고, 최대분산계수 $s_{max}$가 증가할 경우, 다방향 불규칙파랑의 반사율도 증가하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
• /
• 제17권6호
• /
• pp.1-6
• /
• 2003

Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer between wave components, during the directional wave breakings, are investigated. Directional incipient and plunging breakers were generated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location, based on a constant wave amplitude and a constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The time series of surface wave elevation was measured at 9 different locations around the wave focusing point, using a wave gauge array. In order to examine the variation of the directional spreading function, the horizontal velocity of fluid motion was also measured. By comparing energy spectrums, before and after the breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer, caused by wave breaking, are investigated. Their dependencies on directionality, as well as frequency, are analyzed. The breakings significantly dissipate wave energy, through energy transfer, in the upper region of the peak-frequency band, while enhancing wave energy in the low-frequency band.

• 대한조선학회논문집
• /
• 제41권1호
• /
• pp.1-7
• /
• 2004

GUI program for analyzing directional spectrum waves is introduced in this paper Basically, MLM (Maximum Likelihood Method) was used for this program which was additionally consisted of performing spectral and time domain analysis for two dimensional irregular waves. Moreover, the directionality of directional spectrum waves generated by single summation and double summation method was investigated based on MLM. The directionality from each summation method has good agreement compared with that of target wave spreading function in the case of single wide directional spectrum waves. In addition to this, the resolution of directionality in double summation method was investigated as introducing coherence function between each wave component

• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
• /
• 제1권1호
• /
• pp.14-24
• /
• 2015

A three-dimensional multidirectional nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) based on the Navier-Stokes equations and the Finite Volume Method (FVM) is developed by using the two-phase hydrodynamic flow solver naoe-FOAM-SJTU based on the open source toolbox OpenFOAM. The free surface is capturing with the Volume Of Fluids (VOF). The directional wave including Stokes wave, solitary wave and nonlinear wave are simulated and verified. The multi-directional waves are also simulated with particular wave spectral such as JONSWAP and wave directional spreading function. The obtained numerical results show the capability of the solver to generate different type of multidirectional nonlinear waves accurately. Meanwhile, it implies that the presented NWT can easily extend to model the wave-structures interactions, which will be great help to the offshore structures design.