• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.77-94
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• 2015

Much western philosophical thinking is constrained by ocularcentrism. Hence, multi-sensory experiences hold the most prominent position in contemporary art, and visual tactility, where feelings of touch through sight, become a powerful medium of expression in fashion. This study analyzes visual tactility in Alexander McQueen's design, where design elements are in focus. This investigation aims to bring the concept of visual tactility in fashion, and by doing so, enhance valuable aesthetic possibility. The result of the study is as follows: First, Creative silhouette is something that is constructed by his impeccable cutting and tailoring skills. In fabrics, he often suggests unconventional materials by uncompromising approach to fashion. Color contrasts refer to color sensibility, which reminds of grotesque image. McQueen's aggressive aesthetic awareness results in visual tactility in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1153-1164
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find out the creative visual expression in fashion illustration through the previous general theories on creativity. The creative visual expression, in fashion illustration works, can be summarized eight categories as follows. There are 'maximization & minimization'to emphasize the illustrators'emotions and contemporary trends, proposed specially in body expression, 'inversion' seen as the forms of contra-perspective, upside-down, rearrangement of parts, diverted process, etc, 'Unusual uses'to add the effect of caricature, parody, and humor to the fashion illustration works, 'extraordinary connection'seen as the shapes of various combination between animals, plants, stuff, and man, 'concealment & elimination'used frequently in creative visual expression includes a deformed human body, an abstracted human body, an extreme value contrast, simple colors, and dress in silhouette, 'association'seen in various methods; comparing the similar shapes, describing a certain situation or details for analogizing the whole, ‘illusion’ expressed in surreal, mysterious, and fairy depictions and 'substitution'to imitate the composition and colors of masterpieces, copy the parts.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.101-115
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to contribute to the development of the women's fashion field with the goal of creating creative and experimental fashion styles through the categorization of cases of women's fashion design expressed with Maximalism, a type of expression used in modern fashion, as well as analyzing and examining the formativeness of this style. Qualitative research was conducted through a literature review and design case analysis. The scope of this research was from 2011 S/S to 2016 F/W, and the regional scope included the women's collections from Paris, Milano, London and New York. The results acquired are as follows. Initially, exaggeration was expressed through excessively exaggerating the overall silhouette of clothing or exaggeratedly distorting certain parts of the overall silhouette. Secondly, decoration was expressed through the use of the same colors and materials and the addition of excessive details and trimmings to express an exaggerated style of clothing as well as to express a luxurious and handcrafted style of clothing. Thirdly, fusion was expressed through integrating multiple items from different cultures, deconstruction, which destroys the concept of gender and use of clothing, and fashion style that transcends time and space. Fourthly, non-structurality was expressed through differentiating multiple weight feelings applied to the left/right sides of clothing or expressing a structural designs that is asymmetrical to the upper/lower/left/right directions to create a silhouette that displays a creative avant-garde style. As examined above, it was found that the maximalism expressed in fashion after 2011 created new images and expressed maximized emotional orientations through the exaggerated use of multiple silhouettes and decorations or through the integration of colors, patterns, ages and images. Through this process, maximalism is expected to not only provide an infinite possibility to the modern fashion that pursues diversification and multiplication, but also serve as an example that represents diversified post-modernism fashion trends in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.5-30
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to observe artistic of Expressionism reflected to works of European costume designers by analizing works of seven major representative costume designers in the twentieth century. They are Mariano Fortuny, Paul poiret, Madelene Vionnet, Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed individual and various creative costume design work with peculiar expresive techniques, which is based on the Expressionism. Although each creative work was made in extremely unique sense, there was comon expressive spirituality I their creative activity. The findings are as follows : 1. Based on the "Medieval-directed characteristic" which arose over all fields of art of those days, a modern and reformative clothing beauty was created by reanalyzing traditional motive. 2 Characteristic of Cubistic Expressionism were described in overall silhouette of clothing and fine decorative element. 3. Fantastic Expressionism, which pursued basic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs, effected costume style of early 20th century and draw such designers as Mariano Fortuny, Leon Bakst, Paul Poiet, Elsa Schiaqarelli to adopt intensive and primary color. And it also gave an impact against traditional concepts by accepting fantastic oriental Exoticism.Exoticism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.125-137
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• 2012

This study examines the stage costumes of the creative musical 'Hyecho', which was performed six times in the Chung Ang Art Center hosted by Chung-Ang University's performance & media agency from December 20 to 22 in 2006. The stage costumes were made based on these basic design elements of stage costumes that were dyed : line, silhouette, material, and color. First, the creative musical 'Hyecho' presents a new form of fusion theatre, which blends Korean traditional music and dance with videos. Thereby, the musical has opened a new phase in Korea's creative performing arts. Second, in musical performances that combines dance and songs, stage costumes should be made not only to attract the audience's eyes, but also not to interrupt actors' vocalizations and movements by taking their physical features into account. Also, costumes should be made in consideration of their relationships with visual elements, including stage settings and lighting. Third, the musical features fusion-style stage costumes, which combines Hanbok, the Korean traditional costume, and Indian traditional costumes with modern costumes. For the line and silhouette, costumes show the beauty of curves through the curves of Hanbok and India's traditional costumes and also through irregular pleats of pants. Also, by using cotton materials, which is easy to dye and not readily deformed, costumes feature colors that are found in nature through a gradation dyeing technique. In doing so, it offers visual amusement to the audience by making stage costumes look like a beautiful painting. Fourth, the stage costumes of the chorus feature costumes that use lining and pleated skirts using belts, and various accessories, including necklaces that use strings in order to express evil spirits. Since there is not much time to change costumes during a performance, using such items are helpful to show the unique characteristics of actors effectively during the limited time. Also, coordinating with the lighting director allows the costume designer to make better costumes for the chorus and make the performance more dramatic. Finally, it was not necessary to wash the costumes of the chorus of the fusion musical Hyecho 2006 since it was performed only six times. However, when using dyed costumes for the long-term performance, it might cause problems such as bleaching that result from the washing of costumes and low durability that can result in the deformation of costumes. As performing arts are made in various forms and are diversified, it is needed for stage costumes to change accordingly through new attempts and various ways of expression.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.423-438
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• 2021

This study compared and analyzed the direction of Louis Vuitton creative directors Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh. Accordingly, 485 photos(251 Kim Jones, 234 Virgil Abloh) were collected. For data analysis, statistical and content analyses were combined. First, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Kim Jones, complex colors, colorful barrels, tone-in-tone color schemes, H-line, plain fabrics, soft materials, heterogeneous material combinations, casual style. Second, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Virgil Abloh, achromatic color, colorful tone, tone-on-tone color scheme, I-line, plain fabric, soft material, similar material combination, casual style. There were significant differences in color, tone, color scheme, silhouette, pattern, material type, material combination, fashion image, detail, trimming, top and bottom that differed in the creative directors' design direction. Therefore, it appears that Kim Jones has been directing the luxurious and unique men's wear through H-line, coat and slim pants, colorful color combination, soft material, heterogeneous material combination, plain fabric, and chic active sensibility. Meanwhile, Virgil Abloh is directing men's wear in a loose and trendy street mood through the I-line, jacket and wide pants, achromatic color, soft material, plain fabric, similar material combinations, and soft and sophisticated modern sensibility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.62-75
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine how fine art is received in fashion, and to contribute to the development of a creative fashion culture. In order to do this examination, this study focuses on the formative ideas of De Stijl which appeared in the early 20th century. In addition, this study presents examples of today's fashion that still reflects the formative ideas of De Stijl. The De stijl movement did not last for a long time, but it has had significant influence on modern art, and has been a source of inspiration to fashion designers since the Mondrian look was presented by Yves Saint Laurent in 1965. The study on the basis of De Stijl such as Neo-Plasticism of Piet Mondrian and Elementalism of Theo van Doesburg, has been conducted in this study. As a result, this study presents formative characteristics of the De Stijl group in fashion as follows: First, contemporary fashion designers have searched for proportion and thickness of lines and the side split using lines, a stylistic trait of an artist in the De Stijl group. Second, color scheme defined by the De Stijl group has been applied with modification to contemporary fashion. Modification and selective choice of the limited colors are for a contemporaneous style. Third, formative ideas of De Stijl, which strives to achieve the vision of Utopia, has turned up in contemporary fashion as a simple and minimal silhouette. Contemporary fashion has enhanced their aesthetic value by deriving not only a superficial expression but also plastic principle and philosophy from De stijl. It can be regarded as the fashion's ideal way to embrace style of art and it might be so described as a key to edifying artistic and creative attributes of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.849-859
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• 2012

This study contributes to the development of a creative fashion design and provides concrete data regarding the process of creative ideas through an analysis of the characteristics of the fashion design idea and the characteristics of fashion design from a formative perspective according to Osborn's checklist method. The data collection involved 466 pages that focused on the work of 30 designers (2005 S/S-2009 F/W) extracted from the websites style.com and ifb.co.kr. In the cases of pictures collected, a content analysis was applied based on statistical analysis and design analysis criteria. First, as a result of the examination of the characteristics of ideas for fashion design based on the checklist, it turned out that elimination method is most frequently employed, followed by addition, conversion, limit and combination. In addition, every idea showed a significant difference in terms of the applied item, expression method, and balance. Second, due to the study of the formative characteristics of fashion design (based on the checklist), it turned out that square-shaped silhouette, achromatic and chromatic colors, combined tones, identical color combination, complex texture, and identical texture combination are frequently used. In addition, every idea showed a significant difference in terms of form, color, and fabric. We believe that the use of the checklist is useful for the development of a creative design because formative characteristics vary based on the characteristic of ideas of fashion design.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2006

This case study is to embody the birth of a beautiful goddess out of seashells in a contemporary fashion design collection, on the basis of the mythology of The Birth of Venus. The main theme attempts to reinterpret the image of the goddess of love and beauty and express the organic vitality of seashells and oceanic feelings by swirls in motion. To accomplish this, three dimensional silhouette of layered forms of voluminous outer and fitted inner is applied to design ideas with spiral curves. The opposite texture of something sculptural and transparent versus smooth and shiny is used to express the layered structure of seashells with the delicacy of goddess. Neutral colours and different tones of pink appeal to oceanic feelings and feminine emotion in a modern way. Various techniques by the geometric simplicity of flat patterns and pleating with boning are also performed to express the vital movement of organism. Throughout the whole process of this case study, the conceptual idea of Swirls in Motion - a goddess and seashells is reinterpreted to a contemporary fashion by personal and creative design development process. In particular, it is evaluated by the process of primary researches, various design developments and experimentations to the main theme.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.310-321
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is clarify the formative characteristic of dance costume design and analyse stage effect based upon the formative factors. Classified design element of dance costumes by line, silhouette, color, material, lighting, and also this based on content analysis method about each formative factor of costumes that showed 10 dance performances which practically be performed and made. And individually interviewed the professional dance composers and dancers who participated in the performances fer objectivity and specialty of this study. The results were as follows; 1. Dance costume contains and harmoniously expresses theme of a dance work, formative characteristic of fashion design, movement and character of the dancers, lighting effect. 2. Korean creative dance costume is effectively expressed with formative factors of traditional costumes and modem sensibility and symbolic expression of image-centered. 3. Costume line is affected by dancer's movement and it's possible to be different effect that the atmosphere or stage effect by the original form of line and the expression method. 4. Costume color is effective to inform that dancer's character and image of a dance work. 5. Costume material is most important to consider that the dancers and the atmosphere and the image of a dance work. 6. Lighting effect can inform various feel of dancer's dance.