• The Korean Journal of Mycology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.163-171
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• 2008

We have surveyed the variation of physical and chemical characteristics of aerobic and anaerobic outdoor fermentation of cotton wastes using for oyster mushroom cultivation. The inner temperature of cotton wastes fermented aerobically covered with thin cloth and setting pallet at bottom was higher than that of anaerobic fermented cotton wastes covered with P.E vinyl and the maximum temperature was $75^{\circ}C$ at 5th day after fermentation. pH of cotton wastes fermented aerobically was increased up to 8.9 after fermentation of $9{\sim}12$ days, but that of anaerobically fermented was decreased up to 5.0. Total carbon content was decreased but total nitrogen content was increased when fermentation was in progress. Oxygen concentration of cotton wastes fermented aerobically was decreased until 6 days after fermentation but increased after 9 days of fermentation. Ammonia concentration of cotton wastes fermented aerobically and anaerobically was below 10 ppm and $20{\sim}85\;ppm$ respectively. In anaerobic condition the cotton wastes was contaminated with mold ($15{\sim}50%$), where no contamination was found in aerobic condition during spawn running stage. Yields of mushroom grown on cotton wastes aerobically fermented for $6{\sim}9$ days was $23.0{\sim}23.6\;kg$ per $3.3\;m^2$ area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.133-148
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper is to develop waist coat designs that can be worn in the present day by researching design techniques and traditional waist coat forms shown on Korean patchworks called 'Jokakbo', which was commonly used in our traditional culture. By selecting patchwork as the primary motive in particular. The Bojaki, also known as deungguhli or baeguhli(背巨里), gives off a natural and vibrant color sensation. A new design that could be practically worn with modern clothing was developed by sufficiently reflecting this color sensation as well as the aesthetic quality of its geometric shape. On the basis of theoretical consideration of traditional cloth and vest, total of 7 points were designed and produced. These works contain diverse application of the traditional Bojaki and vest. The design of the Bojaki grants rhythmic sense to the side where diverse colors and formative patterns shown on the cloth can be seen as monotonous. The entire side opening of the traditional waistcoat can cover multiple sizes. Depending on the movement, the front and back naturally spreads. The vest can also be worn in layers or used as a cotton quilt depending on the season. And after minimal design alterations, it will be possible to wear the vest with diverse modern clothing due to its straight line and form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.93-103
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• 2001

This Study shows local characters, meaning, value and others (kind, function, material, shape, name) on Shroud through documents and fact-finding survey. In Shroud′s kind and function, Shroud of Kwangju Area is similar with one of Youngsan-river Area, while Sumjin-river Area and Coastal Area, each has its own character due to difference of Burial Culture. In Shroud′s Material, hemp cloth, white cotton cloth and calico, have been well-used in Kwangju and Youngsan-river Area, while silk has used in Sumjin-river and Coastal Area. Shroud′s color has followed Natural color. In Shroud′s shape, Male Jeoksam, Female Trousers, Um, Myokmok, Aksoo, Bib have their local characters. They are reformed in Kwangju Area and Youngsan-river Area. Jeoksam in Coastal Area, Female Trousers in Sumjin-river Area. Um in Coastal Area and Myokmok in Sumjin-river Area, have its unique character. In Shroud′s name, Shroud has widely been called "Dead Clothes", and called "Blind Clothes", "Munnyung Clothes" some areas. In Sumjin-river Area, Summer Jacket has been failed "Deungjigae", Dango called "Ddangjungwee". In Coastal Area, Myokmok and Aksoo have been called "Face Cover" and "Hands Cover", Shroud′s local characters have been caused by Next World, which has reflected local natural environment and cultural features. Next World is so abstract that it can not be expressed well, while Reality is clearly divided into dual spaces : Real World, Next World. Comprehension on Next World, helps harmonize recent values with Shroud meaning and prevents Shroud from standardization and transformation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-79
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• 1995

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.73-80
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• 2006

This study is aimed to produce natural dyeing garments, which contain the sentiments and color sense of Koreans, by using various household supplies, with a view to increase the values added and utilization of natural dyeing. The dyes mainly used for this study are multi-colored ones which are durable after dyeing and can represent various colors. They include Lithodpermum officinale, Caesalpinia sappan, Rubia Cordifolia, Pellodendron Bak, Curcuma Longa L., fallen Ginkgo Biloba, Artemisia Princeps, and Quereus acutissima carr shell. Considering water pollution and other things, aluminum acetate and ferrous chloride were used as mordants. Cheap and practical materials such as cotton cloth and those with traditional patterns and elegance such as silk and ramie fabrics were used to produce baby goods, household supplies, clothes, and accessories. The produced supplies closely contact with our body, so they may have a great effect on human body. The household supplies produced include rug, bedclothes, room bedclothes, curtain, bedding set, cushion, and sunlight blind, in consideration of the functionality or medical actions of the goods which are closely related to the human skin. The infant supplies produced include longcloth for newborn baby, bedding set, gauze handkerchief, and doll. The clothes include night gown, shirt, bath gown, and Korean traditional clothes. The accessories include tablecloth, cup pad, bag, wrapping cloth, mouse and keyboard cushion, and scarf. Nowadays, consumers prefer environment-friendly naturally dyed garments and products. In order to control the naturally dyed garments and products which are traded in the domestic market, it is urgent to introduce such ecological marks as 'Toxproof' and 'Ecoproof.' Currently, many ordinary persons, who are not experts, have interest and participate in natural dyeing, but they simply produce naturally dyed garments, not artistic works or everyday supplies. The present author expects this study will contribute to the production of household goods by such persons. The author also hopes that they will develop and commercialize such designs as suit to modern tastes and senses based on the unique cultural assets of Koreans, so that Korean naturally dyed products may be recognized as reliable commodities equipped with international competitiveness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.102-120
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• 2005

Three Jang-Ue's and eleven drapery were investigated in the excavated costume in Ue-Ryeong, Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do. Three Jang-Ue's have three different colors. the length, the width, and the wide of quilting are different as well. The outer collar of a coat is a double collar while the inturned collar is a single collar. In case of Dark blue and Pink Jang-Ue. The large section of cloth forming the body of a Korean coat is getting narrower while the reinforcing cloth strip is getting wider as the time is passing by. All the three Jang-Ue's have the different handling methods of a attached to the top border of a Korean coat, and Pink Jang-Ue doesn't have a attached to the tip border of a Korean coat. The handling method of the hemline are all different. And the handling method of the cuffs are all different. The silk is main in the woven goods, partly hemp, mixed fabrics and cotton. Especially complex gauze with supplementary wefts that were found unusually in Cho-Sun Dynasty are very import to study the complex gauze. The fond relics of the Jeon-Ui Lee family reveal various formational methods and specific characters of the excavated costume. There fore these that bring the Jang-Ue shape and the textile's feature in Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do region, from 16th to 17th are very valuable.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2009

Ip-yeong or gat-keun decorate heuk-rip, supplementing its simplicity. When the wind blew, a dynamic beauty was created, especially if the gat-keun was made with long straps of jade or silk. Basically, ip-yeong was a practical chin strap to hold the gat tight on the head. Commoners made ip-yeong by folding cotton cloth or fine gauze. However, as available materials became diversified, people used cloth, jade, agate, amber, coral, gold medallion, rock crystal and bamboo as well, juk-yeong, which was made with bamboo, became popular especially when Heungsun Daewon-gun, the father of King Kojong, decreed that people wear simple clothes. Most records concerning ip-yeong in Chosun-wangjo-shillok, the authentic record of the Joseon Dynasty, are related to forbidding a sumptuous life. The book also suggests that ip-yeong was bestowed by the king or was offered to foreign diplomats as gifts. Ip-yeong doesn't seem to be a unique system for Korea. Based on portraits or paintings where ip-yeong can be found, it seems to have been widely used during the Yuan dynasty and the Goryeo dynasty. The system disappeared in China as the Ming Dynasty was established, but it remained in use in the Korean Goryeo dynasty and through the Joseon. Literature suggests that the same materials were used for ip-yeong from the beginning of Joseon to the end of the dynasty. Guyeongja refers to a ring that connects an ipja to a chin strap. Guyeongja made with silver, bronze and jade still remain. In gungjungbalgi, the royal court inventory book, records of imogarye can be found (1882), where ten pairs of pure gold strap rings and ten pairs of gold-plated ones were used for a royal wedding.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.3 s.31
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• pp.259-267
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• 1989

In this paper, the fabric specimen undergoes repeated laundering under given condition. After this cyclic laundering was applied, the crease recoveries of the specimen were measured using shirley crease revovery tester in order to evaluate the effect of factors at given condition during crease deformation. 5 samples of grey plain cloth were desized, alkali-scoured, bleached, whased with water, and air-dried. All tests were made on samples preconditioned to $65\%\;RH\;and\;20^{\circ}C$. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate crease recoveries and the properties of smaples, recovery periods (time) of crease. Furthermore, the crease recoveries of core-spun yarn woven fabrics were discussed in comparison with those values for $100\%$ combed cotton yarn woven fabric and $65\%$ polyester $35\%$ carded cotton blended yarn woven fabric. The results obtained are as follows; 1. Regardless of materials, remarkable decrease are observed in crease recoveries about 1-5 cycles of the repeated laundering, but slack decrease are observed in crease recoveries after 5 cycle of the re-peated laundering. 2. Crease recoveries ($\alpha$) of core-spun yarn woven fabrics are relate to recovery periods (t) of crease as follows; log$\alpha$=0.01415 log t+2.1168 ($r^2=0.94$) 3. Core-spun yarn woven fabrics were superior to $100\%$ combed cotton yarn woven fabrics and $65\%$ polyester $35\%$ carded cotton blended yarn woven fabric in crease recoveries. 4. Crease recoveries ($\alpha$) of core-spun yarn woven fabrics are relate to cover factor (CF), thickness (T) at pressure 0.5 $gf/cm^2$, weight (W) as follows; log$\alpha$=-0.3482 log CF-0.4924 log T-0.4727 W+2.4243 ($r^2=0.88$) 5. Crease recoveries ($\alpha$) of core-spun yarn woven fabrics are relate to 2HB/B, 2HB/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, WC/T which are concerning to formation of weared clothes and bending Iran formation behavior as follows: log $\alpha$=0.0091 2HB/B+0.4667 2HB/W+0.0185 $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$+0.0114 WC/T+1.8433 ($r^2=0.86$)

• 보존과학연구
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• s.6
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• pp.96-110
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• 1985

This report is briefly thied to introduce the kinds of clothes for the body of deceased and special features of remains in the era of the middle of Yidynasty found in Changheung IM's tomb, and some remarks related to the conservation treatment for shrouds as well. The contents of this report are summed up as follows:1. Included with the clothes of dead body of IM's clan were 2 pcs. Of woman's jacket, 2 pcs. of underpants, 1pcs. of single layered overcoat twithout cotton, 1pcs.of women's overcoat with a single layered thin cotton inside, women's socks, cushoned mattress, straw shoes and other hemp fabrics etc. By the observation of these remains, it is considered that they dressed the deceased with new cloth taken from the unsuals not prepared specially and stored beforehand for such as occasion as does it nowadays.2. As to the conservation treatment, the materials were comparatively good and so they employed general tank washing method with special neutrality liquid soap(made by Lab, of Household Products, Pacific R & D Center) for cleaning imbrued matrials on the clothes. After cleaning and drying naturally at a shade place, remains put into apaulowania tree box were fumigated by mixed gas (M. B. + E. O.) for prevention of damages from fungi and insects.3. Desirable environment control for scientific conservation of such kinds of cellulose textiles is to be illuminated at below 50Lux, temperature 16-18℃, relative humidity 45-60%($\pm$4%) and removed the dust. For the prevention of the damaging fungi and insects, it is desirable to fumigate by mixed gas (M.B.+E.O.) once a year.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.101-107
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• 2005

In this article, mordant absorption rate by the Change of temperature and fabric, discharge level by water washing, mordant density and method in mordant dye are going to be handled. Besides, how treatment method will have an effect on absorption rate and color, is also going to be covered. An atom extinction photometer was used to measure the amount of mordant absorbed in fabric at each temperature and mordant type. It turned out that absorption rate differs according to the type of mordant and sample or temperature. Also it turned out that the mordant input amount has little influence on absorption rate, that is to say, if though you use more mordants, just tiny amount of mordant is going to be absorbed in cloth. It is true that the higher temperature goes up, the better mordant absorption gets. It is found that the type of mordant and sample, treatment period affects the discharge rate. Normally $15{\~}98\%$ mordant comes off the fabric by water washing, to be specific, $17{\~}47\%$ Iron by water washing and it has better performance on cotton and nylon than silk, $1\%{\~}52\%$ Aluminum by water washing and better absorption on silk, $36{\~}89\%$ Chrome by water washing and better absorption on silk, $50{\~}89\%$ copper by water washing and better absorption on silk, poor on cotton. The examination of the K/S values and colors between before and after soaping has been conducted under the circumstance that the test fabrics had been treated at $80^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes with $0.2\%$ soaping solution. In case of pre-mordanted fabrics, the K/S value nosedived after soaping, meanwhile densely mordanted fabric's K/S value soared but after soaping, it dropped sharply. It turned out that soaping treatment deteriorates absorption much more than water washing. It's considered that $0.1 \%$ (W/V) of mordant density is appropriate.