• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.3 s.31
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• pp.207-222
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• 1989

New process for the preparation of the artificially soild cloth (ASC) used for detergency evaluation was developed and its detergency was also studied. ASC was prepared by the dipping of cotton cloth in the water in which oily soil, protein (gelatine), carbon black and clay had been dispersed. The clay used for this ASC was red yellowish soil around Mt. Kumjung and was a typical soil in Pusan area. Adhesive status of soil at prepared ASc was examined by an electron microscope, and crystallyzation and color change of used clay were evaluated with the determination of X-ray diffraction and surface reflectance. For the evaluation of detergency by the washing with commercial and model detergents, the behavior of soil removal from this ASC comparing with naturally soiled collar cloth was examined. Those results are summerized as followings; 1) Adhesive ststus of soil at prepared ASc was very similar to that of naturally soiled collar cloth. 2) A crystalline of clay calcined at $800^{\circ}C$ was disappeared in part and color of calcined clay changed into reddish yellow by the decomposition of organic matters. 3) More uniform ASc was prepared with clay calcined at $800^{\circ}C\;that\;200^{\circ}C$ however its detergency prepared from clay calcined at $800^{\circ}C$ was poor 4) A significant relationship between the content of inorganic matter in ASc and K/S value was found, however no significant result between the content of protein contaminated and K/S value was observed. 5) Detergency of prepared ASc had a very similar to that of naturally soiled collar cloh.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.14
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• pp.94-108
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• 1993

The cultural properties of cloth are of animal orgin (silk), or of vegetable orgin(cotton, hemp, ramie). As clothes are of an orginic material, they were subjected to damage by chemical, phisigical or biological factors, viz, moulds insects, lights, humidity and temperature changes, etc. And these factors promote that clothes generally result from various types of deterioration. In 1992, We were performed the conservation treatments for total 9 pieces of cloth, such as 3 pieces of General PAK SHIN-RYONG(Important Folklore Material No.110) 3 pieces of Madam Jung(Important Folklore Material No.115) and 1 piece of King Se-jo(Important Folklore Material No.219). The procedure of the conservation treatment for clothes describe the following below. 1) The washing and dry-cleaning to remove the contaminated substances from cloth was used 0.2% stearyl potassium soap solution and the mixture solution compound of n-Hexane, C6H14. and n-Decane, C10H22. And after the washing and dry-cleaning, the dry of clothes was carried out in a warm condition. These steps were repeated in 2 times over for each cloth. 2) The repair of clothes was attached the similar textiles to stronger fabric linings by needlework.3) The reprodution was made for cloth of King Se-jo to equalize the type, color, quality and skill of materials. 4) After these above procedures, all clothes fumigated to prevent the biodeterioration by using the mixed gas of methyl bromide and ethylene oxide as insecticide and fungicide. 5) Finally for the purpose to keep in a safety long-term condition, the treated clothes sealed with Biaxially Oriented Polyvinylacohol Film(BO-PVA film) and Helium, purity 99.999%, filled up in sealed BO-PVA film bag.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.7
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• pp.1085-1092
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• 2002

Changes in laundering habits and the efficacy claims made for oxygen bleach added to detergents necessitate a deeper investigation into the testing of the washing efficacy of detergents and washing process. The effect of the addition of a sodium percarbonate and bleach activator TAED to an enzyme containing detergent on the soil removal and antimicrobial properties were investigated with the measuring of residual H$_2$O$_2$. The addition of sodium percarbonates to enzyme containing detergent lowered the soil removal of EMPA 116 cloth. But sodium percarbonates had greater effects on that of colored stained cloths such as EMPA 115 and artificially soiled with wine and red pepper while they were presoaked at 20$^{\circ}C$ or higher for So minutes or longer. Most of hydrogen peroxide was remained after washing. Over 99.9% of Staphylococcus aureus on the cotton cloth was removed in every washing solutions, but the cloth washed with enzyme containing detergent or detergent with oxygen bleach didn't show the antimicrobial property.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.39-49
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• 1998

When considering clothing of the North American Indians, it is important to understand historical background of the North American Indians. With the coming of he Europeans, the North American Indians adopted new materials of clothing and ornamentation and added European elements to their own dresses. New materials appeared in textiles, beadswork, and metalwork. The introduction of the "true" loom and steel needle by the Spanish led in the New World to the development of a weaving culture. Cotton cloth, in calico prints, gingham, or plain were made into dresses, and colorful applique, patchwork designs adapted from the white women. Cloth made an immediate impact, replacing skin that is so time-consuming in preparation. Glass beads, pony beads, seed beads and ribbons were used to create adornment Indian clothing. Brass, tin and silver were used among Indian metalworkers to make some ring, necklace, bracelet, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.101-110
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• 2009

This is a study regarding the development of cultural products with applied traditional Saekdong-image. The objective of this study is to develop unique cultural products which combine traditional korean images with modern feel by utilizing traditional Saekdong-image. Saekdong has been an object of deep attachment and regarded as a tool for expressing korean images from ancient times to the present. Chosun dynasty shows a wonderful growth of fashion not only in dress but also in such accessories as patchwork wrapping-cloth and Saekdong, which imply a lot on formation or color arrangement. Approximately 24 pieces of cultural products that can be used in daily life were created using Saekdong, including traffic or credit card cases, name card cases, pouches, coin purses, bags, Vest, teapot wrapping-cloth, brooch. After design plans were made for each works, natural dyes were used to dye(dip dyeing) the fabrics(cotton, silk, linen) by theme. In addition, the increased quality of the products will be a competitive edge in the world market where products compete with no national bounds.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 1996

The purpose of the study is to analyze the dresses appeared in Nogultai. In the analysis of this study names and kinds of fabrics, colors, motifs, places of production and names of dresses were examined. In the study various kinds of fabric colors and motifs of fabrics were appeared in Nogulta. Also a variety of silks such s brocade, damask, plain silks, ra, silk gauze, hemp cloth, cotton cloth, wool and fur were found. Colors of fabrics were of blue, green, indigo blue, red, light blue, brown, yellow, black and white were described. Mostly cleouds, flowers and mixtures of floral designs were used in silk brocades, Walrus was motif the only animal revealed in silk brocade. Nanching, Hanchaw, Suchaw were famous production centers of silk damasks, silk gauge and silk ra. Also Shantung and Suchaw produced good quality plain silk. Various kinds of coats, waded coat, wadded short coat, inner jackets, vest trousers, winter cap were included. Also accessories such as belt, cap, boots, socks, money belt, pouch were described. In addition, cosmetics, cosmetic kits and names of semi precious stones were mentioned. Seasonal garments differed according to kinds of fabrics and materials used. Wadded coat, wadded short coat, vest, winter cap and wool socks appeared as winter wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.5-14
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• 2001

Excavated costumes at the women's tomb in 17C have been sustained good condition. These materials give us that Jang ui(長衣) and so chang ui(소창의) with chechori(유), skirt, trousers(袴) reflects on women's fashion style at that time. By seeing these costumes, we can get the characteristics of costumes in mid-chosun era with chechori, skirt, jang ui, so chang ui etc. The features of chechori in this area are follows : form - diagonal gil, collar - kalkit and tangkokit, length - about 50cm, materials - silk, cotton, grass-cloth, kind - single, double. clothing padded with cotton wool etc. It is the first time that chang ui, one of Po, is excavated in this area. There are three pieces of jang ui which is significant data to study deeply on the costume in 1700's. Jang ui mainly made of silk in pattern, silk, cotton and decorated stylish printing on the robes. With these material and style, we can induce the mode of mid-chosun period. Through comparative studying we have many chances to understand women's the garment for the dead(염습의) in mid-chosun period.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.220-237
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• 2021

This study carried out the conservation treatment for the mattress put on the bed, which is one of 4 items in National Folklore Cultural Heritage, the Red-lacquered Furniture with the inlaid mother-of-pearl design used by Empress Sunjeonghyo (presumed), after identifying the characteristics of the manufacturing techniques and the used materials. And the study intends to compare it with the mattress placed in the Daejojeong in the Changdeokgung Palace in order to identify the characteristics of mattresses domestically used during the 1920s and 1930s. From the analysis of the mattress presumably used by Empress Sunjeonghyo, it was identified that the mattress frame was made of pinaceous hemlock spruce while the webbing and twine in the structural parts were made of jute. The findings are as follows: the burlap had a filling material that was made of jute; the straw mat was made from Oryza; and, the rest of the filling material was cotton. Rayon was used for the top cover while cotton was used for the bottom. As a result of research on the materials and the inner structure, it was found that mattress was manufactured in the form of the upholstery style mainly found in chairs and day-beds in Western furniture. Based on analysis results, materials identical to the original were adopted during the conservation treatment. Next, the process of dismantling, cleaning, repair, reinforcement and assembling was conducted. During the dismantling process, the top cover was newly discovered and some letters (Yokohama, Kobe, and Joseon) were found in the burlap filling, but there was no trace which can clarify its maker or production place. dry cleaning was carried out on the structural parts, filling materials, and the cover, and then the repair and reinforcement were done, preserving the existing materials in the upholstery structure and using the same materials for conservation. The webbing in the structural parts was reinforced using materials identical to the original, and the twine was used for arranging and fixing the springs into wooden frames. For the damaged cotton cloth and burlap, reinforcement materials identical to the original were put over it and sown. For the damaged area of the top cover, reinforcement cloth was cut and then added inside and the damaged area was sown. Assembling was carried out in the reverse order of the dismantling. After the burlap identical to the original material was inserted into the areas in contact with the springs and then fastened, a filling pad, reinforcement cloth, a straw mat, cotton cloth, cotton felt, wide cotton cloth for protecting the cover, and the cover were layered and fastened with tacks. The two mattresses used by Empress Sunjeonghyo differed only by the period of production and followed the same Western upholstery style consisting of the frames, filling materials, and covers. During the conservation treatment process, a velvet cover was newly discovered and the traces of repair in the past were found. Furthermore, identifying straw mats, straw bags, and straws for filling material, this study confirmed changes in the materials used according to the production environment. In the future, it is expected to see changes in the conservation materials during the conservation treatment and manufacturing techniques used for chairs and sofas in the upholstery style belonging to the modern cultural artifacts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.869-877
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• 2016

This study looks into the dyeing properties and functionality of cotton fabrics dyed in both the Spirodela polyrhiza extract and the extract resulting from the mixture of Salvia plebeia R. Br. and Spirodela polyrhiza. Since the UV-Vis Spectrum of the methanol extract of Spirodela polyrhiza shows absorption peaks at 256, 268nm, and 345nm, it can be inferred that the compound that Spirodela polyrhiza contains is a flavonoid. In addition, it can also be presumed that, by analyzing the infrared absorption spectrum of Spirodela polyrhiza, the plant contains flavonoid compounds, just like Salvia plebeia R. Br.. The UV protection factors of the cotton fabrics dyed in both the Spirodela polyrhiza extract and the extract from the mixture of Salvia plebeia R. Br. and Spirodela polyrhiza were 50+, presenting outstanding UV protection factors. The deodorization rate of the cotton dyed in the Spirodela polyrhiza extract was between 30 and 120 minutes, and the rate rose from 92% to 97% as time passed. The deodorization rate of the cotton dyed in the extract from the mixture of Salvia plebeia R. Br. and Spirodela polyrhiza increased from 88% to more than 91%. The result also revealed that overall the fastness of color, including color fastness to washing related to change in color, as well as the color fastness to light of the fabric dyed in the extract from the mixture of the two plants improved, compared to the cloth dyed only in Spirodela polyrhiza extract. Furthermore, the antibacterial activity was also strengthened.