• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권2호
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• pp.353-364
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• 2016

This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture 'Rock Fashion' into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market dramatically. Hedi Slimane was mainly inspired by various rock music genres from the 1960 to 2000s such as glam rock, psychedelic rock, grunge rock, and garage rock. He showed in his own rock style when creating his collection. The collections inspired from the specific rock music and style were selected from Dior Homme (2001F/W-2007F/W) and Saint-Laurent (2013F/W-2015F/W), and analyzed by the 4 genres of rock music and fashion style as follows. First, glam rock style appeared in Dior Homme 2005F/W and Saint Laurent 2014S/S with glamorous full make-up, animal printings, and glitter textures. Second, psychedelic rock style appeared in Saint Laurent 2015S/S with flower patterns, afro hair, fur vests, and western & ethnic bohemian styling. Third, grunge rock style appeared at Dior Homme 2005S/S and Saint Laurent 2013F/W with messedup hair, destroyed jeans, and layering style. Fourth, garage rock style appeared mainly at Dior Homme 2006 S/S with messed-up hair, slim suit, fedora, and sneakers. This result is expected to be used for research and development on modern rock style for contemporary menswear.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권4호
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• pp.133-144
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• 2006

The contemporary period is called "the age of sensibility" in which each individual consumer seeks to have her or his own products. Businesses are in need of design developments with an emphasis on customer sensitivity, and at the same time consumers must understand their own sensitivity to acquire information on designs that suit them. This research established a sensitivity and configuration database on designing men's jackets using the sensitivity engineering approach to clothing design information. The user interface was created on the Internet. Sixty-seven sensitivity terms of vocabulary appropriate for the assessment of men's jacket design were selected, and the different designs were classified into six items and 24 categories. Thirty men's jackets with different designs were produced for sensory testing and the results were analyzed in accordance with general linear I statistics. A sensitivity database was established for each category. My-sql, PHP, Java Script, and Html were used for the configuration database work. The configuration of items/categories, with the most appropriate sensitivity database information assigned to the selected sensitivity vocabulary, was programmed for display on the computer screen. The sensitivity vocabulary of a customer's choice for each factor was selected for the program to run, while the category and product configuration of the men's jacket most suitable for the search was displayed based on the user interface.

• 복식
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• 제66권8호
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• pp.14-32
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• 2016

This study examines the morphological expression type and formative characteristics of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology. The results of the study are as follows. First, the morphological expression types of contemporary shoes that integrate 3D printing technology express a structural form created by repetition. Second, it expresses a dynamic form, which combines organic curves that create an external volume. Third, it expresses a surrealistic form centered on an object with the creation of a unique shape that utilizes objects easily experienced in local surroundings. Fourth, it expresses a hybrid form on a partial derivation. Each of the other system's components are fused to create another beauty that develops a new value in a colorful variation on the shape of 3D printing shoes. The first formative characteristic of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology is continuity. This creates an invisible form of a new space through repetitive unidirectional layers with a gradual expansion of a unitary seamless curves. Second, it is an exaggeration. This exaggeration elicits an enormous aesthetic quality by structuring the outward space in the difference of the volume formed based on the maximization of a specific part and the volume of a line's atypical movement. Third, it is a decoration. It displays the beauty of a decoration that evokes a unique artistic inspiration by partial unification or a practical representation of a specific form. This can also be seen as superimposing a 3D printing figure that has an outstanding shape onto part of the fashion shoes. Fourth, it concerns a geometrical characteristic that formulates a new structure with rationality in combining basic shapes such as circles, triangles and squares with lines, hexagons and interconnected geometrical forms to create a multi-dimensional space for shoes in a systematic and unidirectional pattern.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.112-126
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• 2012

The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.61-70
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• 2005

A representative British designer, Vivienne Westwood's work. world from radical punk style to aristocratic historical dress is explored in context in terms of Englishness. National identity opens up into the process of mobilization of collective sentiment in the national context, unlike nationalism, and Englishness signifies the idea or emotion of England in contrast with Britishness, the political constructor influenced by geographical aspects. There is no doubt that Vivienne Westwood is central to ideas about creativity and originality in English design on subculture. However, in evaluating a designer and her work we should consider the entire context surrounding her from a broader view, rather than arguing only her own ingenuity. In this article, through reconsidering her originality in the historical reference as well as the resistant punk style in aspect of fluid national identity, I show a case of a constituted Englishness, forged by Vivienne Westwood as a cultural creator of national identity. Vivienne Westwood's case hints the complexities of national culture, which constantly shifts, translating her understandings of history and culture into fashion in her contemporary insight and glamorous ways.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.947-959
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• 2009

This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. First, western urban chic, Japanese minimalism and domestic modern feminine images all have common modern urban sense and simple designs. However, each image is not a simple image in itself. For example, in the case of western style they often seek to convey a sophisticated and stylish street sense, while Koreans add a more cute, lovely, and feminine touch. Second, western restrained eroticism, Japanese fetishism and domestic mono-bosom images all have a common interest in sex. They is something, however, which they all express this differently. In Japan, they prefer a stimulating image. In the West, however, this is restrained by controlling and limiting overt sexual elements, while in Korea, we seek to capture a more simple sensual beauty. Third, western couture luxury, Japanese orientalism and Korean utopia narcissism have classy images in common including splendid materials and decorations with embroidery. They all differ depending on their nationality. This study is baseds on the documents study. This study is baseds on the documents study.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.65-75
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• 2001

주방 디자인의 패션화와 동서양 문화의 퓨전적 현상은 식기의 다양화와 세분화를 요구하고 있으며, 식사는 단지 먹는다는 의미보다 무엇을, 어디에, 어떻게 먹느냐의 문제로 발전되게 되었다. 이러한 문제는 자연이 현대의 식생활과 라이프 스타일에 부응하는 합리적이고 미적인 식기 개발을 요구하게 되었다. 이에 본 연구에서는 전통과 현대의 조화로운 만남, 젊은 감성과 품격을 동시에 충족시켜 줄 수 있는 미래형 식기 및 테이블 클로스 디자인을 연구하여 개발하는데 그 목적을 두었다. 연구의 방향은 식탁문화의 패션화와 퓨전적 현상에 따른 식기 사용의 세분화, 전문화, 다양화 욕구를 효율적으로 만족시키고자 고정된 세트 개념이 아닌 끝없이 연속되는 열린 코디네이션 개념을 식기에 도입하고, 색채 역시 믹스 앤 매치 방식의 칼라 코디네이션으로 다양한 식탁 표현을 연출 할 수 있는 새로운 식기 디자인을 통하여, 보수적인 우일요 이미지를 전통과 현대의 조화로운 젊은 감성과 감각의 이미지로 개선하였다. 연구의 디자인 개발 대상은 런치 웨어로 식기류 15품목 15종, 테이블 클로스 3품목 4종 등 총 19종과 디너 웨어로 식기류 8 품목 8종과 테이블 클로스 1품목 1종 등 총 9종으로 하였다. 연구결과 S/S 런치 웨어 세트로 테이블 웨어 디자인 15품목과 테이블 클로스 3품목이 개발되었으며, F/W 디너 웨어 세트로는 5종이 개발되었다.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2015

The ethnic dress of Germany's Black Forest, called Tracht, dates back to the 16th century. Although most people living within the Black Forest do not presently wear Trachten, some persistence in this tradition exists. This study explored the factors that have supported the persistence of the Trachten tradition, specifically related to the wearing and crafting of Trachten by women, in a contemporary society. A qualitative, ethnographic approach was adopted. Data were collected via observations and interviews in the Black Forest. Thematic analyses revealed that the maintenance of the Trachten tradition was linked to varied factors that revolved around the overarching themes of both persistence and change. Interpretations were supported by theory proposing that ethnic dress is not static, but rather, changes across space and time in ways that enable its persistence. The persistence of the Trachten tradition was linked to formalized practice, meaningful identities, and desires to preserve and promote local culture. Additionally, the persistence of the Trachten tradition was fostered by change in the tradition, including the conceptualization of Trachten as a "lived practice" and the negotiation of Trachten authenticity.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제38호
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• pp.233-240
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to find the coordination trend of the Image of the color and object from the department show-window display locating in the kangnam area. The result of this study were summarized as following: 1) Show window display determinating the first image of department-store marketing service, playing the role of visual marketing provides the valuable impressions with shoppers in the times of sensibility, 2) In contemporary recognition of "Design is namely culture", show window display proceeds on the direction of concrete and practical presentation of merchandise as many customers are pursuing the high graded luxury brands while their life styles change. 3) Main concept is represented by the coordinated fashion goods on the mannequin or the body and the main theme is displayed variously in the circumferential area or on the articles with the abstract and concrete objects of diverse forms of dominant color and accent color conveying the seasonal theme precisely. 4) The compositive element of color Is the decisive factor of the visual sense of space In the coordination-trends of show window display specially representing the seasonal theme or the intentional messages and conduces to the psychological and mental desire in human and the circumstances, 5) Following the color, the compositive element of object presents the concrete image of theme or the abstract and geometrical sense of space besides the visual sense of space and shows the proportionality and the activity in displaying the show window space.dow space.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.42-52
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• 2017

In this modern world of drastic change, folding architecture was an alternative that offered a novel architectural insight. Today, the folding technique is being used above and beyond architecture, spreading to fashion, lighting, medicine, etc. Especially in the interior space design field, the folding technique is in the limelight as an alternative to create an original space for modern society. However, research and experiments into folding mainly remains at philosophical interpretation or architectural examples, and even these were mostly before the 2000s. Therefore, the present study determined it necessary to look deeply into the post-2000s folding technique focusing on interior space. In this paper, 33 cases of indoor space where folding technique appears are derived, and classified them again by use. The folding technique which was the first step of Sophia Vyzoviti's experiment on her book, "Folding Architecture" was extracted and used as the framework. We summarizes the range of application of folding techniques (interior space in general, floor, wall, ceiling, etc.) and major folding techniques by combining photographs, drawings, and descriptions of the works of the architects. This paper summarizes the characteristics of the space described comprehensively, and draws out the spatial characteristics of the modern interior space where the folding technique appears.