• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.1
• /
• pp.117-128
• /
• 2002

This paper is extended the meaning and period of CONICAL HAT. That is, the race in Central Asia and Western Asia have worn the conical hat before Scytian appeared. One in conical hat puts on the clothes of two-piece style and has the lifestyle. a horse riding and nomadism. Besides the race originate into the Indo-European language family. On the whole the conical hat has relations with the region and is classified into two groups. Scytian and Klin-Yar style. First. the Scytian style of low hat forms the seam of two-piece and is discovered in Southern Russia. Central Asia and East-Northern Asia. Second, the Klin-Yar style of high hat forms the one piece and generally is discovered in Asia Minor and west of Altai. Until now the moaning of the conical hat has focused on the military. However, one in Central Asia and Western Asia is mostly a king. nobility and god. Therefore, in addition to the meaning of military. I estimate that the conical hat may be expressed as the noble status.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.1-15
• /
• 1995

This study is concerned with the julpoong of Koguryo. The meaning, form, structure, user, the origin of the word the julpoong were examined. The pien of he ancient China and the julpoong of Koguryo were examined. The result of the analysis of this study is as follows. The Chinese and the people of Koguryo used the meanings of the julpoong differently : the Chinese referred the julpoong to the conical hat with the seams including one seam on it, while the people of Koguryo called the julpoong as the conical hat with seams excluding one seam on it. the people of Koguryo called the julpoong with one seam as the chack . The julpoong was used by all people of Koguryo : the government officials, envoys, and the commoners wore it. The word julpoong of Koguryo was derived from dulband, dulband, dubend, dolband of Persians. the word julpoong is correspondent with the above the persian words. The julpoong of Koguryo word was transliteration of dulband(dulband, dulbend, dolband) meaning turban or sash. The hat called chack by the people of 고구려 was the conical hat with one sea and their meaning of he chack was different from the meaning of the chack of the Chinese. The julpoong a kind of conical hat, was called by the pine by the ancient Chinese.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2018

This study focuses on the correlation between Kotgal and paper-folding. This paper first examines the meaning and history of Korean ancient Kotgal and then investigates relationship between Kotgal and Korean paper-folding culture which has been inherited in various ways. Throughout the study, literature research and analysis have been conducted along with empirical studies. The results of the study are as follows. First, it has been told that Kotgal was used a as a trident hat symbolizing the sky, land, and man, whereas Korean paper-folding is known as closely related to the folk beliefs which had existed since ancient times. From ancient times, the Korean ancestors expressed the Three Gods representing beauties of the nature, 'sky(Chun), land(Ji) and man(In)' on the conical hat and prayed for their wish to the heaven. Second, Kotgal has been evolved in various ways from ancient times through Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty to present. The form of Kotgal has begun with folding and this is closely related to the origin of Korean paper-folding, which is the Korean traditional craft. Third, the paper-folding tradition of Korea has been variously applied in the Korean culture such as rituals, life crafts and plays and expresses the unconventional philosophical concepts unique of Korea. In conclusion, this study evidently shows that the Korean philosophical ideas behind Kotgal which originated from ancient paper-folding are scientific and systematic.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2001.04a
• /
• pp.23-24
• /
• 2001

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.9 no.2
• /
• pp.250-258
• /
• 2001

The objective of this study was to trace and to identify the meaning of jeobli接籬. This word is found as one of the early costume terminologies of China. later the jeobli was introduced to Koguryo. The jeobli of China and Koguryo were included in this study. Sources of information for this research were collected from the written records including visual information from ancient paintings and tumb paintings as well as figurins. The results of important findings and conclusions of this study can be summerized as follows: It was found that the jeobli 接籬 was synonymous with the cheobli 睫離. Also it appeared that it was called baikrosa. It revealed that the word jeobli had different meanings. first, ti was the name of a white hat which was worn by the people of Chin dynasty. It was a white felt hat made of white great plumes and feathers. Second, it was a dialect for maqna, a kind of a veil which was worn by the women of the Northern dynasty. That, it meant the chaikkun, a kind of knot coverings. The jeobli, a kind of a white felt hat, was also used by the people of Koguryo. The jeobli of Koguryo was made of the pig hair from Malgal. It is considered that he shape of this white hat seems to be a kind of conical hat. Also, it was fond that the jeobli as the meaning of chaik kun was worn by the people of Kogure. it was a small white square hat. It was worn by the nobles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.5
• /
• pp.96-107
• /
• 2012

In ancient times, immigrants from Baekje wore various kinds of costumes that provided technological and aesthetic guidance for the Japanese costume, which has been modified and changed in Japan. The clothing and ornaments were strongly influenced directly by costumes of the Baekje period; therefore, many of the Japanese costumes at that time were crafted in the Baekje style. Through the antique records, paintings of tombs and bequests, we were able to find similarities between Baekje and Japan costumes in these categories: clothes, headgear, belt hooks and belt plaques, bronze shoes, and ornaments. (1) Clothes : They wore high-shaped hat and jacket and trousers(;袴) tied the bottom. (2) Headgear : There was a gilt bronze Conical Cap attached to the long tube with terminals in the shape of a hemisphere. (3) Belt hooks and belt plaques: There were horse-shaped belt hooks in mane styles and a checkered pattern on the lower part of the haunch and a belt Plaque shaped like the face of an animal. (4) Gilt bronze shoes: They were made with the style that had two side plates fixed in the instep side and heel-side. (5) Ornaments : They were made with flower-shaped plaques and spiral-shaped decorations. One earring was made with a three-winged pendent that were connected in a chain style and the others were in unique forms that were made by connecting narrow rings and a heart-shaped pendent.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.3-20
• /
• 2022

The origins of the world-recognized Korean gat can be traced back to Gojoseon, and the jades for the sangtu and gwanja come from Hongshan culture. This study examines the etymology of the hat, the symbolism of the gat and the jade comb, and the history of the development of the accessories for the hat. The research methods of literature review, investigation of relics and murals, and analysis of cases of pronunciation changes were used. Most of the relics excavated from the Hongshan are identical to those excavated from Korea. The Byun-Khan people wore a triangle-shaped conical hat (the byun), which was shaped to fit the protruding sangtu hairstyle, with a foldable brim that, if pulled downward, changed the hat to a gat. The Chu sangtu, a pointed top-knot hairstyle, is uniquely found among Northeast Asian peoples, and it is an ethnic symbol for Koreans. Until the modern period, many Koreans wore their hair in the sangtu style, indicating their descent from the sky. Jade combs shaped like birds and clouds from the Hongshan period emphasized the religious nature and ceremony of hair styling at that period. The word hat is widely used to refer to gat all over the world. The pronunciation of ㄱg, ㅎh. and ㅋq/kh are closely related to each other, and the ancient pronunciation ㄱg gradually evolved to ㅎh or ㅋq/kh. The English 'Hat' and Korean 'Gat' were transformed from the middle-ancient sound 'gasa > gosa > got' of the crown 'gwan, gokkal'. This creative hair style culture that started from the Hongshan culture continued to be fashionable during the Gojoseon Dangun period, and the decoration techniques for hats and accessories were inherited over time and continuously developed. Along with the method of making gat, creative hair-related parts, such as manggeons, donggot pins, gwanja buttons, and fine combs were developed over the course of a thousand years.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.364-371
• /
• 2015

This study investigated and analyzed Sadanggut for General Namyi, Agisee Gutdang in Haengdang-dong, Dodanggut in Bonghwa Mountainto examine the type and characteristics of official hats for shaman's costumes based on Seoul village gutas a spiritualistic shaman revealing the divinity of music for gutthrough singing, dancing, divine material and official hats. Commonly worn official hats were Goggal(conical hats), Jeonlip(soldier's felt hats), and Heuklip(black hats) for Seoul village gut as the object of thisstudy. Each official hat had a close relationship with subjects for divinity and musical meaning for gut. Julip(Red hats), Jokduri(bride's headpiece), helmets, Iksubgwan(King's official hat), and Daesu(Queen's a big wig with various hairpins) were also worn. Official hats worn for Seoul village gutwere understood to symbolize divinity and raise authority and dignity to the public through aggressive appearance, exaggeration and splendor. Concretely, official hats at Seoul village gut first had roles to materialize the divinity of each music of gut. Second, recognized as a part of performance or traditional culture in present day, aggressive official hats were favored to supply splendid attraction and maximize scenes of divined heroic epic poem in gut. Third, for Seoul village gut, colors and silhouettes of modern traditional costumes were reflected pursuing partial change and focused on exaggeration and splendor to express the mirth and festival of gutwhile maintaining traditional costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.49 no.4
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2011

This study aims to examine the costumes, which a shaman wears for the ritual of exorcism in the Honam region. The findings are based on a field survey of the exorcism ritual, which is performed by hereditary shamans and forms part of an annual event in the Honam region. Two main features of the shamans' costumes were observed. Firstly, the types of shamanic costume worn for gut reflected the general traditional costume but with some variations. White-colored costumes are largely found in the Honam region. Secondly, the types of costumes, which shamans wear in the Honam region. are also varied. The different types of shamanic costumes, regardless of Ga-sa, can be classified into Jang-sam, Jeon-bok, or Duru-magi, variations in the patterns of costumes, differences in the types of conical hat, and modifications in the dress code.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.4
• /
• pp.204-220
• /
• 2007

The background of Korean Ethnical Costume was originated from those northern mounted nomadic groups, which was Scythe style Costume Culture. Through the antique records and paintings of tombs bequests hereby describe the forms of Scythian Cotume (1) Headgear : There was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap, and Crown. (2) Clothes : Both Men and Women wore Jacket as upper garment with leftsided collars, narrow sleeves to the length of the hip line. As lower garment, they wore the tight Trousers and Kungo(:窮袴)that was attached with gusset. (3) Belts and Boots : On the upper garment bound the leather Belts that was hanged a hook that was shaped of animal form at the end. Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal's head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. To the Boots, they wore leather boots. (4) Ornaments : Ornaments divided into Dress Trimming(:Gold plaques), Earrings, Necklaces(;Torques), Bracelets, Rings. Scythian Gold Plaques were divided into several types according to the shape, animal style(curved beast shape, profile shape, head reversed over its back shape), round shape, quadrilateral form, star shape, flower shape, crescent shape, bundle shape, human appearance. Earrings consisted of a plain ring and pendant ring was a middle ornament hung from it to a pendants which hung was made of heart shaped leaves of the tree, beads-linked. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style, Crown style. Scythian Bracelet were divided into 4 styles according to the shape, Bracelets with ends shaped like beasts style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown with openwork style. Rings were rhomb-shaped and animal shaped styleRings (5) Animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Magical use of symbols may have been inten-ded to guarantee the power of the aggressor.