• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.554-566
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• 2006

The purpose of this paper is to understand the ethnic characteristics of official uniforms of Qing(淸)) by comparing the rank systems of official uniforms of Ming(명(明)) and Qing(淸)) dynasties. As research documents, Dai-Ming-Huidian(大明會典)) and Qing-Huidian-Tu(淸明會圖)) have been used. This research shows that there are many traditional characteristics of Manchurians (滿族)) in the official uniforms of Qing(淸)) dynasty. The characteristics are as follows: First, Qing dynasty made their own official uniform based on the traditional Manchurians(滿族)) costume, and added rank system on it. Second, Qing dynasty used the animal's leather as the material of official uniforms and distinguished the level of the uniforms according to the rerity value of rareness, color, and warmth of the leather. Third, Qing dynasty used pearls produced in Manchuria as the highest level, as opposed to jades and rhinoceros horns of Ming. Fourth, Qing dynasty eliminated the animal's rank system of twelve patterns which had been used for whole history of China, but the Emperor is the only man who is able to use twelve patterns. Qing dynasty made her own pattern system of standstill/moving dragons and standstill/moving pythons. Fifth, Qing dynasty used the rank system by colors in the order of yellow, red, and blue consistently over various official uniforms, while Ming used different color orders for different uniforms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.248-261
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• 2023

The conditions for minimizing dyes and additives when dyeing cellulose fibers such as linen, ramie, and hemp fabrics were obtained using glucose, an organic reducing agent. Dyeability and colorfastness were measured through repeated dyeing. The overall surface dyeing concentration followed the linen>hemp>ramie order, and most of the colors were in the range of PB (PurpleBlue). As the glucose concentration increased, the blue series was strengthened, and the color was dark and clear. It was determined that glucose the concentration of 4g/L was appropriate for minimizing the amount of dye. When the dyeing temperature was 30℃, the surface dyeing concentration was the highest, and the color was dark and clear. Although the dyeing concentration increased as NaOH concentration increased, 3g/L (pH 12.37) was considered appropriate for the minimum NaOH concentration, which becomes gradual after the dyeing concentration increased rapidly. It was found that the surface dyeing concentration, when repeated six times for 5 min, was better than that of dyeing once for 30 min. Washing, rubbing, and perspiration colorfastness were all found to be excellent in grades 4-4-5, and colorfastness to light was excellent in grades 5 of linen and hemp and grade 4 of ramie.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.985-996
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolism of traditional Korean patterns which reflect an emotional cultural background of Korean people, to apply modernized and developed patterns to Textile Design for fashion cultural products, and to explore productive direction of developing designs of fashion cultural products. The process of developing Textile Design of fashion cultural products which applied symbolism of traditional Korean patterns was conducted as follows. Firstly, based on '05 S/S-'07 S/S fashion trends, a design concept wat decided(man-urban ethnic style, woman-romantic ethnic style). Secondly, motive was abstracted from selected traditional patterns to develop into modem patterns. Thirdly, items were selected according to symbolic meaning of traditional Korean patterns. Man's items included shirts, necktie, and handkerchief which were highly preferred by Korean and foreign visitors. Finally, developed textile designs were diagrammed by item using textile CAD and an illustrator 10 and presented as images. The following results were obtained. First, textile designs for fashion cultural products, in which apply traditional patterns may reflect the understanding of traditional aesthetic beauty and philosophical approach by applying symbolic significance inherent in patterns as well as the aesthetics of the patterns. Second, traditional patterns have been recognized as old fashioned to consumers because they have been often used for traditional handicrafts or folk products. If their unique shapes are changed or simplified, emphasizing images, and trend styles and colors are used, they will be recreated as a modem design. Third, textile designs using traditional patterns may provide various images and visual effects according to techniques and production methods. Then, the method will be applied to many items. Finally, since traditional patterns in fashion cultural products can be used as our unique design elements, they can be utilized as the source of design inspiration for the development of value-added products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.657-675
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• 2020

This study suggests a direction for design development through an analysis of the experiential rental Hanbok design in Jeonju Hanok Village. As a research method, 268 outfit photographs of tourists wearing experiential rental Hanbok for women were collected as design analysis data from Jeonju Hanok Village. Frequency analysis was then performed by dividing into form, color, material·pattern, and detail. The controversy over the design of experiential rental Hanbok revolves around how and how much tradition is reflected. This is a very important part of the design analysis and development direction. If necessary, traditionality was discussed using the Hanbok style of the Joseon Dynasty as a standard. Development directions derived from the analysis are summarized as follows. First, avoid the distorted shape of skirts. Second, develop underwear for traditional silhouettes. Third, expand traditional colorations and avoid the excessive use of accent colors. Fourth, it is necessary to develop rental Hanbok materials with decorative features. Fifth, there is a need to design flat pattern construction for rental Hanbok that reflects a standardized production method and a changed aesthetics.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13
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• pp.55-64
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• 1996

Garment is not only a part of formative art that establishes a live shape by wearer but also space modeling which features the solidity based on human body. Hence, beyond the simple meaning of 'wearing clothes', modeling which makes a cubic shape in accordance with human body's movement, is an important element in garment design. This study examined puli-over-typed garment design that owns abundant space sense, taking complex shapes of geometrical diagrams with brief and simple features as a motive. The study aims at seeking after the combination of plane and cubic forms, and exploring formative garments which are further modern and different variance by approaching the natural section of geomentrical facets with tightfitting idea and composition of delicate colors and forms when plane pattern was put on human body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1442-1453
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• 2010

This study targets adult females and shows the analysis of physical images affecting clothing behavior, satisfaction or dissatisfaction of ready-made clothes, favorite ready-made clothes design, and weight control as well as the result of demographic characteristic influencing clothing behavior. An individual satisfied with their body prefers bright colors and shiny clothes, on the other hand, an individual who is dissatisfied with their body do not like ready-made clothes and favor loose suits. This study shows that individuals not satisfied with their body are afraid of becoming fat and are following a weight control program. The analysis explains that women (who care for their appearance well) pursue aestheticism, superiority, and are more satisfied with ready-made clothes with casual, feminine, and fancy motifs. It also shows that women who have no confidence in their body follow feminine modesty; on the contrary, those who are confident of their body are satisfied with ready-made dresses and prefer a sexy image. As a result, those who do not care about their looks seek feminine modesty, functionality, and easy-management.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.296-305
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• 2017

Gallnuts are known to exert various pharmaceutical properties that include anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and detoxifying effects. Gallnut extract is thought to be a particularly safe antimicrobial agent for textile application due to its natural origins. Hence, textiles were dyed with gallnut to develop multi-functional clothing material with no harmful effects. In this study, three kinds of cool touch woven fabrics, each comprised of 100% viscose rayon filament, viscose rayon filament/high absorption & quick dry (polyester) filament, and viscose rayon $filament/tencel^{(R)}$ spun yarn, were prepared and used as substrates for gallnut dyeing to especially develop functional cool touch textiles for summer clothing material. On the other hand, gallnut dyeing was conducted with mordanting with iron, lime or alum, which induced different colors on the dyed textiles. Dyed textiles were then investigated by SEM, FTIR, antibacterial test, and antioxidant test. Subsequently, gallnut dyed textiles indicated excellent antibacterial ability and deodorization activity regardless of mordant species. However, only gallnut dyed textiles mordanted with iron and alum showed significant antioxidant ability. In addition, the dyeing processes impair the cool touch feeling of the textiles by changing the micro structure of the textile surface.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.6
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• pp.945-962
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• 2022

This study examines the use of traditional patterns by new Hanbok brands. A Saekdong print pattern based on previous research was developed and applied to clothing designs. A total of 488 images of printed products from the seven new Hanbok brands and 219 images from the collections of the National Folk Museum of Korea were analyzed. Traditional patterns accounted for 47.4% of the total printed products of the new Hanbok designs, with the following ratio of use, in descending order: flower patterns, traditional paintings, animals, geometrical designs, Dancheong, text and others, Jogakbo, and Saekdong. Saekdong was found in three brand products, and the color or shape was modified. To develop the Saekdong image, five colors - red, yellow, blue, white, and green - were selected. The ratio of use for each color and the width of each color were determined with reference to previous studies. The average color value was determined through color analysis of the Saekdong collections. A total of seven items were designed for the print pattern, and four items were added for coordination to consist of four styles. This study aims to use the results of this analysis to provide insights into product development using traditional patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.387-410
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.111-125
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• 2006

This study measured and analyzed musical sense objectively, and visualized it to express visual effects as if watching music with the eye. For the visualization of music, we examined the concept of synesthesia and the correlation between hearing and seeing, and reviewed theoretical grounds and a number of cases necessary in reproducing musical sense visually based on synesthetic expression. Furthermore, we studied the visual elements and associated colors of rhythm to prove that visual conception of music through various approaches enable a transitional approach to aesthetic exploration and interpretation. The conclusions drawn from this research are as follows. First, classic music selected for visualization had musical characteristics highly correlated with dress design. Second, basic formative elements suggested as materials of visualization in this study were suitable in their form for expressing the rhythmic sense of music and, because they started from the most basic form, they were effective in extracting design elements. Third, when the result of the questionnaire survey, which was focused on the visualization of the rhythmic sense of the five pieces of classic music, was analyzed from the aspect of sensibility ergonomics, design elements of each piece of music were obtained in an objective and scientific way. Fourth, it was confirmed that common concepts could be derived from intangible elements such as forms and sounds observed in the rhythmic sense of music obtained from the result of the questionnaire survey. Fifth, works were made based on the results of this study and, according to the result, musical images can express sense through dress design and obtain visual effects as if watching music with the eye. Dress desist through the visualization of music in this study was an attempt to suggest that the language of music can be expressed in dress design, a visual formative language, based on synesthetic expression. Through this attempt, we confirmed the infinity of music as motives of dress design and suggested a method of aesthetic expression demanded in contemporary society that is pursuing aesthetic values.