• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.33-46
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability of silk on extract of Artemisia princeps, The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method. comonent of fabric, kind of mordant. The experimental study was done by laundering fastness, abrasion(dry/wet) fastness, perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness, light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, in the C. C. M test on mordanting methods, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference, color was most yellow-greenish, Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabrics, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It is considered that silk has -$NH_2$ , -COOH, -OH than more than cotton. Third, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed that color-change was 2~3 grade, the contamination on attached fabric was 4~5 grade. perspiration fastness(acid/alkali) showed 4~5 grade nearly and those of acid was higher than alkali. abrasion fastness(dry/wet) was 4~5 grade and in Fe(3~4 grade) was lower than the other mordants. Forth, in color difference analysis on mordants, Fe(50.0) showed the highest and the order of color difference was alum(16.0), Cu(7.2), Sn(3.5), Al(3.1), Cr(2.3), The Hue was turned into yellow-greenish in alum mordant treatment, the luminocity of color was most dark in Fe(-48.9) and Cu(-7.2), chroma was the highest in alum (15.7) method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.772-778
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• 2006

Silk organza can make the silhouette of clothes bulky and rich, owing to its stiffness. And silk organza in the gum has better dyeability so can be dyed more bright and deeper color than scoured silk because silk organza has sericin gum that has better dyeability than fibroin. So, silk organza came into the most broad use as the material for Hanbok, especially in summer. But the silk organza has poor color fastness. Sericin is removed from organza when silk organza go through scouring. The purpose of this research is to find out the optimum conditions that the scoured silk fabrics can get stiffness by persimmon juice treatment. For experiments, non scoured, partially scoured and fully scoured silk fabrics were prepared by alkali treatments. Then 3 kinds of silk fabrics were treated with the concentration of 1, 5, 10, 50 and 100% of persimmon Juice. The change of fiber surface of the various silk fabrics were observed By SEM. The hand values of those fabric samples also were measured hand values by Kawabata Evaluation System and stiffness by Cantilaver method. By scouring, the silk organza got more flexibility and less cohesiveness between their fibers. And it can be a little more bulky by removing gum. Namely, silk organza lost its unique stiff and crisp handle. By the persimmon juice treatment, tannin component could be coated on the fiber surface. so that the stiffness of the fabrics were improved.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.118-122
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• 2000

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with loess were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions, such as concentration of loess, dyeing temperature and time, on dye uptakes. And also the effects of mordant and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptakes were inverstigated. For the practical use, the various color fastness of dyed fabric were evaluated. The dye uptakes of dyed fabric were increased gradually with increasing concentration of loess, dyeing time and temperature. The K/S value of dyed fabric most efficient for the premordanting method. The color fastness was improved when mordants were added.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability and color fastness of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with extract of Arrowroot leaf princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordant treatment, component of fabric and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness, color difference by C.C.M system and K/S test. The summerized finding reulted from experiment and investigation are suggested as follows : In the C.C.M and K/S test on mordanting method and kind of fabric, that of silk and cotton was the most effective in the pre mordant treatment. In the C.C.M and K/S analysis on 5 mordants, that of silk and cotton was significantly improved when mordants was treatmented. Especially, that of Fe mordanting treatment was higher than Al, Cu, Cr and none. In color fastness on mordants, laundering, perspiration and abrasion fastness showed 4-5 grade but light fastness showed 1-3 grade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.868-876
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• 2005

Silk fabrics were dyed with yellow natural materials. Gardenia, turmeric, amur cork tree, safflower, Japanese pagoda tree, and onion were used as natural materials. Color image of natural dyed silk fabrics was classified by 4 factors(Cheerfulness, Comfortness, Pastrol, Revealation). Cheerfulness factor affected significantly with color image. Amur cork tree or turmeric dyed fabrics were shown as light and cute, safflower or gardenia dyed fabric shown as comfort, and onion dyed fabrics shown as mature and simple. Color image with specialty was significant difference in Preference and Revelation factor. Preference was appeared as amur cork tree>turmeric>gardenia>safflower>Japanese pagoda tree>onion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.542-546
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• 2005

This study was investigated to establish the optimum conditions of dyeing silk fabric with Brassica campestris. This experiment was done under different dyeing conditions of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing repeating times, and mordants which were treated pre, syn, and post methods. The effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting were evaluated in terms of dyeaffinity(K/S value) and CIE-Lab color factors. Also, the effect of mordanting on color fastnesses was assessed. The dyeaffinity increased remarkably as dye concentration increased up to 200% owf. The dyeaffinity increased continuously with dyed temperature and reached dyeing equilibrium at $80^{\circ}C$. The maximum dyeaffinity was observed at 30minutes of dyeing time. In the relationship between the K/S value and dyeing repeating times, the K/S value became higher as repeating time was increased. The changes of surface color and colorfatness of dyes were not increased greatly on all mordanting states. The extracts of Brassica campestris produced mainly yellow color in silk fabric. The antimicrobial activity existed slightly as the ratio of 22.7%.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 1994

In order to study the effect of mordanting on silk fabrics treated with tannin, those fabrics were treated with Al, Cu, Cr, Fe, Sn by pre and post mordanting. It was studied about color change, weighting effect, dgree of photodegradation by pre and post mordanting. The results are as fallows ; 1. On the addition of mordants into mimosa and tannic acid solution, &{\lambda}_{max}& of the former was slightly blue-shifted, on the other hand, &{\lambda}_{max}& of the latter was obviously Red-shifted. 2. In case of Cu, Cr, Pre mordanting, weighting effect were appeared. Weighting effect of silk fabrics treated with Tannic acid increased higher than mimosa by mordanting. 3. In color change, Silk fabrics treated with Mimosa and Tannic acid generally changed to red direction and fabrics treated with tannic acid changed to yellow direction by pre and post mordanting. 4. In the photodegradation, the degree of photodegradation on mordanted fabrics increased. Its degree was slack in Cu, Cr, Post mordanting. On the other hand, Al, Fe, Sn were greate. Silk fabrics treated with Mimosa and Tannic acid got inhibiting effect on photodegradation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.399-407
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• 2003

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Purple-Fleshed Sweet Potato (PSP) was investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water, and the color difference (${\Delta}E^*$) was increased with increasing the amount of PSP in extraction. The proper temperature and time for the extracting of colorant with PSP were $60^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes. The optimum temperature, time and pH for the dyeing of silk with extracted PSP were $60^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and pH 4 respectively. In various mordanted methods, the color difference values of post-mordanted silk fabric were higher than those of pre- and simultaneous-mordanted method. And the wide range of colors( GY, Y, YR, R, RP) were obtained according to various mordants, mordanting methods and mordant concentrations. Light colorfastness of the mordanted silk fabric was improved. Laundering colorfastness, dry cleaning colorfastness and perspiration colorfastness were shown to be good.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.109-119
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Caseaslpinia Sappan, L. and Brazilin were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye up-take adn color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. solution was 445nm, Brazilin was 448nm. The color of bazilin solution was affected by pH 7~9. The optimum temperature to extract Caesalpinia Sappan, L. was 10$0^{\circ}C$ adn dyeing solution for 1 hour. In case mordants concentration, the most absorbance was 0.3%. In case mordanting test, the best and proper temperature to quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and the most quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was mordant treatment by Cu. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treat-ment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. After soaping treatment K/S value of pre- and post-mordanting silk was decreased and 0.1%(W/V) quantity of mordant was sufficient for treatment. In the case of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. fastness was increased by mordanting treatment. Mordants and mordanting treatment method affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed silk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.866-872
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• 2010

This study investigates the methods of the natural dyeing of silk fabrics with Machilus thunbergii cortex extract. After the dyeing of silk with a Machilus thunbergii cortex extract, the dyeability of the Machilus thunbergii cortex extract was evaluated with the dyeing time, concentration, temperature, the numbers of repeated dyeing, the pH of the dyebath, the changes of the K/S value, and surface colors by the methods of mordanting and color fastness. The effective dyeing conditions with silk fabrics were at a concentration of 120g/L, the dyeing temperature at $80^{\circ}C$, and the dyeing time for one hour ten minutes. The effective number of repeated dyeing was three times. The dyeing operation was carried out in a neutral dyebath of pH 7. The K/S value was higher in most of the pre-mordants (except the Sn mordant) and a high K/S value was shown in the copper pre-mordant. The colors of the silk fabrics with Machilus thunbergii cortex were of various brown shades. The color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant and the colorfastness of all the dyed samples was low; however, the dry cleaning fastness was excellent at the 4-5 grade.