• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.350-360
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• 2016

In order to investigate characteristics of waves and currents varying in space in the Haeundae coast in winter, numerical simulations by using a 2-D spectral wave model(SWAN) and 2-DH hydrodynamic model(Delft3D) were carried out in this study. The results of numerical simulations were validated with the field data collected at several different locations in the study area in February, 2014. From the numerical simulations, it was found that waves and currents were significantly influenced in terms of direction and magnitude by bottom topography characterized by straggling rock crops covered with sea grasses. The coupling of SWAN and Delft3D models also revealed that alongshore currents directing from the east to the west were developed in the nearshore, due to the influence of larger waves with the main incident direction from the east.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.13-26
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• 2016

Sea water level variations are generally influenced by a variety of factors such as tides, meteorological forces, water temperature, salinity, wave, and topography, etc. Among non-tidal conditions, atmospheric pressure is one of the major factors causing water level changes. In the East Sea, due to small tidal range which is opposite to large tidal range of the Yellow Sea, it is difficult to predict water level changes using a numerical model, which consider tidal forcing only. This study focuses on the effects of atmospheric pressure variations on sea level predictions along the eastern coast of Korea. Telemac-2D model is simulated with the Inverted Barometer Effect(IBE), and then its results are analyzed. In comparison between observed data and predictions, the correlation of prediction with IBE and tide is better than that of tide-only case. Therefore, IBE is strongly suggested to be considered for the numerical simulations of sea level changes in the East Sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.276-284
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• 2011

The rip current occurred at Haeundae beach was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulation was performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. The results of numerical simulation show the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation system (including rip current) that are caused by nonlinear transformation of directional irregular waves due to unique topography of Haeundae. From the results, it was found that rip current is well generated and developed where relatively lower wave height and relatively deeper water depth along the longshore direction, and sudden and strong events of rip current were observed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.146-150
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• 1996

The waves are most important dynamical factors for the analyses of structural stability and topographical changes on coastal engineering field. However, wind-generated waves are very irregular in shape and transformed through refraction, diffraction and shoaling when they propagate into shallow water where bottom topography and water depth vary significantly. Recently, Vincent and Briggs (1989) reported hydraulic model experiments for the transformation of monochromatic and directionally-spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound. They concluded that for the case of combined refraction-diffraction of waves by a shoal, the propagation characteristics of the irregular and equivalent regular wave conditions can be vastly different. On the irregular wave transformation have been made theoretical and numerical studies for several years. Although theoretical and laboratory studies on wave transformation have progressed considerably, field measurement and comparison of numerical results with related theories are still necessary for the prediction of the phenomena in reality. In this study, field measurement of both incident and transformed waves in Youngil Bay were made using various kinds of equipments, and numerical computations were made on the transformed frequency spectra of large waves propagating over the shoal using Chae and Jeong's (1992) elliptic model. It is shown that this model results agree very well with field data, and thus the applicability of the model is now validated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.129-138
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• 2017

The coastal wave environment is a very important factor that directly affects the change of coastal topography, the habitat of marine life, and the design of offshore structures. In recent years, changes in the wave environment due to climate change are expected, and a trend analysis of the wave environment using available data sets is required. In this paper, significant wave heights which are measured at six ocean buoys (Deokjeokdo, Oeyeondo, Chibaldo, Marado, Pohang, Ullengdo) have been used to analyze long-term trend of normal waves. In advance, the outlier of measured data by Korea Meteorological Administration have been removed using Rosner test. And Pearson correlation analysis between the measured data and ECMWF reanalysis data has been conducted. As a results, correlation coefficient between two data were 0.849~0.938. Meanwhile, Mann-Kendall test has been used to analyze the long-term trend of normal waves. As a results, it was found that there were no trend at Deokjeokdo, Oeyeondo and Chibaldo. However, Marado, Pohang and Ullengdo showed an increasing tendency.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.81-95
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• 2014

In the present study, the statistical analysis on the storm waves in the East Sea have been carried out, and the several storm waves were reproduced by the modified WAM as a first step for the accurate and prompt forecasting and warning against the swell waves in East Sea. According to the present study, the occurrences of the storm waves from the North were the most probable, while the waves from the Northeast were most frequently observed. It was found that the significant wave heights of storm waves from the North and Northern northeast were larger than those of storm waves from the Northeast. But due to long fetch distance, the significant wave periods of storm waves from the Northesast were longer than those of North and Northern northeast. In addition to the wave analysis, the numerical experiments for the storm waves in East Sea were carried out using the modified WAM, and three periods of storm waves in 2013 were calculated. The numerical results were well agreed with wave measurements. However the numerical simulation results in shallow water region showed lower accuracies compared to deep water, which might be due to lower resolution of wind field and bottom topography caused by large grid size, 5 minute, adopted in the present study. Overall computational efficiency of the modified WAM found to be excellent compared to original WAM. It is because the modified WAM adopted the implicit scheme, thereby the present model performed 10 time faster than original WAM in computation time.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.58-66
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• 2010

In this paper, we have constructed high-resolution topographical map of macro-tidal Malipo beach through integration of terrestrial LiDAR measurement and MBES survey data at inter-tidal zone. To acquire the enough information of inter-tidal zone, we have done terrestrial LiDAR measurement mounted on the roof of vehicle with DGPS through go-stop-scan method at the ebb tide and MBES depth surveying with tide gauge and eye staff measurement for tide correction and MSL calculation at the high tide all together. To integrate two kinds of data, we have unified the vertical coordination standard to Incheon MSL. The mean error of overlapped inter-tidal zone is about 2~6 cm. To verify the accuracy of terrestrial LiDAR, RTK-DGPS measurement have done simultaneously and the difference of Z value RMSE is about 4~7 cm. The resolution of Malipo topographical map is 50 cm and it has constructed to DEM (Digital Elevation Model) based on GIS. Now it has used as an input topography information for the storm-surge inundation prediction models. Also it will be possible to use monitoring of beach process through the long-term periodic measurement and GIS-based 3D spatial analysis calculating the erosion and deposition considering with the artificial beach transition and coastal environmental parameters.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Surveying, Geodesy, Photogrammetry, and Cartography Conference
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• 2007.04a
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• pp.435-438
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• 2007

A laser scanning technique has been attracting much attention as a new technology to acquire location information. This technique might be applicable to a wide range of areas, most notably in geomatics, due to its high accuracy of location and automation of high-density data acquisition. In this study, the coastline was extracted using laser scanning. Through this laser scanning technique, efficient change detection of coast section can be ensured and also they can provide important information to be used when detecting a coast section in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.9-27
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• 1971

Oceanography of the Subarctic North Pacific Ocean is reviewed. The submarine topography and the current systems in the region are explained. Recent serial observation data reveals that. though the upper mixed layer of low salinity is relatively thick. the pattern of the property distribution in winter is essencially similar to that in summer. Alaskan Stream Extension Water. which influences the abundance and the location of demersal fishes. extends northward to 58${\circ}$ N Lat in the Bering Sea. A southeastward intrusion of the Bering Borcal Cold Water causes the formation of a sharp oceanic front. where the demersal fishes such as Alaska pollacks and cods arc concentrated. The Alaska pollacks seem to avoid the low salinity water of the Alaskan Coastal Water.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.8-8
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• 1971

Oceanography of the Subarctic North Pacific Ocean is reviewed. The submarine topography and the current systems in the region are explained. Recent serial observation data reveals that. though the upper mixed layer of low salinity is relatively thick. the pattern of the property distribution in winter is essencially similar to that in summer. Alaskan Stream Extension Water. which influences the abundance and the location of demersal fishes. extends northward to 58${\circ}$ N Lat in the Bering Sea. A southeastward intrusion of the Bering Borcal Cold Water causes the formation of a sharp oceanic front. where the demersal fishes such as Alaska pollacks and cods arc concentrated. The Alaska pollacks seem to avoid the low salinity water of the Alaskan Coastal Water.