• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.170-178
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• 2007

Most of parabolic approximation models employ a relatively limited open boundary condition in which there is no depth variation in the longshore direction outside of the computation domain so that Snell's law may be presumed to hold. Existing Kirby's condition belongs to this category and in the paper both modified Kirby's method and Dirichlet boundary condition are presented in detail and numerical results of three methods were shown. Judging from computation to wave propagations over a circular shoal in a constant depth, the method based on present Dirichlet boundary condition with fictitious numerical adjusting regions in both sides of the computation domain gives the least distorted amplitude ratio distribution.

• Korean Journal of Hydrosciences
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• v.2
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• pp.25-37
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• 1991

The numerical models of the parabolic equation, applicable only to the progressive wave, and hyperblic equation, which may consider even the reflected wave, were developed and applied to the area of the submerged circular shoal and then results obtained from both models were compared with experimental measurements and each other. The hyperbolic model was further applied to both the detaced breakwater and the breakwater with a gap. The numerical results were plotted and compated with the existing data. Numerical solutions were obtained with the finite difference method.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.4B
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• pp.413-419
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• 2008

In this study, we develop analytical solutions for long waves propagating over several types of axis-symmetric topographies where the water depth varies in an arbitrary power of radial distance. The first type is a cylindrical island mounted on a shoal. The second type is a circular island. To get the solution, the methods of separation of variables, Taylor series expansion and Frobenius series are used. Developed analytical solutions are validated by comparing with previously developed analytical solutions. We also investigate various cases with different incident wave periods, radii of the shoal, and the powers of radial distance.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.174-186
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• 1998

A Galerkin's finite element model incorporating infinite elements for modeling of radiation condition at infinity has been developed, which is based on an extended mild-slope equation. To illustrate the validity and applicability of the present model, the example analyses were carried out for a resonance problem in the rectangular harbor of Ippen and Goda (1963) and for wave transformations over circular shoals of Sharp (1968) and Chandrasekera and Cheung (1997). Comparisons with the results obtained by hydraulic experiments and hybrid element method showed that the present model gives very good results in spite of the rapidly varying topography. Numerical experiments were also performed for wave transformations over a circular concave well which may be an alternative to conventional wave barriers.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.619-633
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• 1994

A wave deformation model for general purpose combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking is developed in the shallow water. A parabolic approximation equation considered a higher order diffraction term is derived from the previous mild slope equation. A wave energy dissipation term due to bottom friction and breaking is introduced from the turbulence model. The Crank-Nicoloson implicit scheme is used in the numerical calculation, then the solutions are compared with the various hydraulic experiment data in the circular, the elliptic shoal, and the surf zone. The wave height decay in the surf zone is sensitively affected by the incident wave steepness, and the wave height variation around the elliptic shoal is well explained by the non-linear dispersion relation and the wave energy dissipation term. The model is also applied to a field coastal area and reasonable results are obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.22-30
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• 1989

Wave propagation is changed by the effect of shoaling, current-depth refraction and shelter-ing etc. To solve these problems. numerous models have been developed. In the present study, a coordinate system is proposed based on the wave ray equation with the wave number equation including diffraction effects . The governing equation for the study was derived from the mild slope wave equation in non-steady state, including current effects (Kirby, 1986a) and trans-formed into an orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system on the basis of the wave ray equation. To obtain a numerical solution, an explicit finite difference scheme was used, and solved by the relaxation method. This model was tested for various cases: Firstly a submersed circular shoal and a constant unit depth. Secondly a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope, and finally a breakwater harbour with obliquely incident waves on a slope. The model was found to simulate the experimental results and other theoretical results in wave height and wave angle fairy well, and the applicability of the model around an arbitrary shaped coastal structure was also verified. To demonstrate the general usefullness of the present approach , the model is to be applied to a field situation with a complex bed topography.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.18 no.4 s.59
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• pp.40-45
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• 2004

An efficient numerical model of the modified mild slope equation, based on the robust iterative method is presented. The model developed is verified against other numerical experimental results, related to wave reflection from an arc-shaped bar and wave transformation over a circular shoal. The results show that the modified mild slope equation model is capable of producing accurate results for wave propagation in a region where water depth varies substantially, while the conventional mild slope equation model yeilds large errors, as the mild slope assumption is violated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 1990

Based on second-order Stokes wave and parabolic approximation, a refraction-diffraction model for linear and nonlinear waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward scattered wavefield. The parabolic approximation equations account for the combined effects of refraction and diffraction, while the influences of bottom friction, current and wind have been neglected. The model is tested against laboratory experiments for the case of submerged circular shoal, when both refraction and diffraction are equally significant. Based on Boussinesq equations, the parabolic approximation eq. is applied to the propagation of shallow water waves. In the case without currents, the forward diffraction of Cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between the stem waves and the incident wave characteristics are discussed. Numerical experiments are carried out using different bottom slopes and different angles of incidence.