• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.513-524
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to trace the development of Chintz pattern design through fashion history, and to focus on its application in modern times with special emphasis on filtered Chintz patterns. Chintz patterns use such motives as tree, animal, bird, and geometrical shapes, etc.. It reached the peak of its popularity with William Morris. His influence continued from the end of the 19th century through to the 20th century. Modern Chintz designs have been modified and diversified in different cultures through time, and such diversification & changes can be easily found in modern fashion. From previous studies and other related sources, we found that Chintz patterns were revived in modern fashion trends with some modification. We also discovered the importance of chintz pattern designs in ethnic and retro trends. Thus in conclusion, this study revealed the significance, flexibility, and lasting popularity of Chintz pattern designs in fashion history.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.211-221
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• 2012

The word 'chintz' is thought to be a corruption of spotted cloth. Printing remained a relatively primitive method of decorating textiles in Europe until the second half of the 17th century. The formation of the English East India Company sparked the influx into the West of painted and printed Indian cotton textiles. A William Sherwin took out the first English patent in 1676. The earlist European designs were florals in the Indian manner. Patterns of European flowers returned to England as birds, flowers, trees, vines and stained glass for Victorian chintz. In France, the original and most successsful manufacturer of the distinctive printed fabrics from Jouy was Christophe Philippe Oberkampf. Copperplate printing was introduced to Jouy in 1770, probably reaching the pinnacle of achievement in the craft after 1783 when Jean-Baptiste Huet became chief designer. Huet's style was widely imitated in France and abroad, and the term 'toile de Jouy' has come to be universally applied to monochrome figurative designs wherever and by whomsoever they were produced. Oberkampf served his apprenticeship as an engraver with some leading manufacturers, including a period in Mulhouse. In Alsace, which was not part of France until 1798, the first factory had opened in 1746 in Mulhouse, and the area soon had the largest number of print-works in France.

• 한국디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국디자인학회 2001년도 Bulletin of The 5th Asian Design Conference International Symposium on Design Science
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• pp.31.1-31
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• 2001

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.137-154
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the transition of luster material after the tweentieth century. This study was conducted by means of designer collection, journal of fashion, museum data, fabric exhibition and Internet data. The results of this study were as follows: Before the synthetic fiber period, the luster materials were used satin, chamuse, gauze, damask brocade and velvet, except cashmere, mohair and rayon. They are made from silk by the way of giving difference surface property. But since 1960s, it has used not only synthetic fiber with smooth surface but also vinyl, latex, natural leather, synthetic leather and metal. Luster material recently has a tendency to natural and soft shiny, example silket finish, chintz finish, silico coating finish with paper touch feel and so forth.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.10-21
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• 2009

The shape of floral pattern in the period of Rococo are a pots, a flower and ribbon style, a flower and a stripe style, a lace style and a scene style etc, and also in that time an apperance of softness of curved line, delicacy and smoth line, irregular and unrestraint line, motive of tiny and extra ordinarily, little bunch of flowers, and stripe style was a feature. The style of presentation were a presentation of fixed style such effect as lace, and a presentation of realistically style emphasized a massiveness and a cubic effect, and also used a natural color, and the presentation of abstract expressed like imagined anything and fancied. Weaving expressed delicate, brilliant, fantastic, and an atmosphere with elegant. embroidery was expressed in creation with emphasized in reality. Printing was fantastic with exotic in development of chintz due to effection of orient. The based on a salon civilization, the refind beauty of taste of royalty gave a refinded feeling with over affectionate in preference with a softness of curved line, and a motive of tiny and extra ordinarily. The classical beauty of elegant was realistic in being concentrated on building up blance and homony. The natural beauty of romantic was in being devoted the theme with soft and fantastic.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.133-147
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• 2006

This paper deals with utilization of traditional Indian textile design found in 21st century fashion. It examines the decoration of the traditional Indian textile design which inspires and widely adopted in the modern fashion design, and the immanent meaning of the traditional pattern. This paper also analyzes the trend of its utilization in the modern fashion design. In order to examine variety of Indian textile design and its modernization, the Indian ethnic dresses found in 21st century western designer collections were compared with the Indian traditional textile design adopted by Indian fashion designers. The result of the study shows followings : Firstly, the typical traditional decoration in Indian textile design contains plangi, chintz, ikat, roghan and embroidery (mirror-work), and the traditional Indian patterns are roughly divided into natural pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern and geometric pattern. Secondly, comparison of 203 fashion items of world top 4 collections with 422 fashion items of Indian designer's collections shows that the paisley pattern obtains the majority in western design collections, while the geometric pattern in Indian designer collections. Thirdly, the comparison and analysis of the 21st century western fashion design shows that the traditional Indian textile design is mostly used in the seasonal trend color or is mixed & matched with other patterns. You can also find the feeling of the traditional Indian patterns in some western collections. In Indian designer collections, on the other hand, the traditional Indian patterns are widely used in the manner that they maintain the traditional feeling, while they are reconstructed in modern style.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권12호
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• pp.1883-1896
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• 2009

이 논문은 조선후기 보자기에 적용된 다양한 장식 특성을 연구한 것이다. 보자기는 물건을 싸거나 음식을 덮는 등 일차적으로는 실생활에 활용하기 위한 실용적 목적으로 제작되었지만, 보자기 제작은 전래된 상징적 문양의 표현을 통한 현세적 기원의 행위이기도 했으며, 또한 조선의 엄격한 유교 윤리 하에서 여성의 창작 욕구가 자유롭게 발현된 생활 속 여흥의 일부이기도 했다. 한국의 보자기에는 조각 잇기, 자수, 회염, 인염, 오려내기 세공 등 다양한 장식 기법이 활용되었다. 조각 잇기 기법이 활용된 조각보에서는 조선 여인들의 절약습관이 돋보이는데 이는 특히 자원의 재활용을 중시하는 오늘날의 가치와도 일맥상통하는 바가 있다. 자수가 놓인 수보에서는 상징적 문양의 표현을 통한 여인들의 소박한 바램이 읽혀진다. 한국 보자기는 회염이나 인염으로 장식되기도 했는데, 이들은 한국 복식 유물에서는 보기 어려운 장식 기법들이다. 농담을 조절한 다양한 색채의 당채 기법이나 단일색의 먹물 채색, 여러 종류의 도안이 새겨진 목판을 이용한 인염 기법 등이 이용되었다. 음식물이 묻지 않게 하기 위해 때로는 기름 종이로 보자기를 만들기도 했는데, 이러한 식지보에는 오려내기 세공이 장식 기법으로 활용되었다. 오려내기 기법의 원리는 스텐실 염색과 비슷하여 이를 또한 섬유제품 디자인에 활용할 수도 있다.