Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
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Korean Wrapping Cloths as a Decorative Art

한국 보자기의 장식성 연구

  • Published : 2009.12.31
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Abstract

This paper explores the use of Korean wrapping cloths (bojagi) in the late Joseon period and the types of decorations applied to them. Korean wrapping cloths called bojagi are pieces of cloths used by households of all social classes for practical purposes such as wrapping presents and covering food. In addition to the basic purposes, the making of bojagi was also an activity to express the down-to-earth wishes and the satisfaction of creation by the designer. With regard to the decorative feature of Korean wrapping cloths, five types of, patchwork, embroidered, painted, printed, and oiled-paper wrapping cloths, were examined. The patchwork wrapping cloths (jogakbo) show the frugality of Joseon women in addition to the well-developed composition skill of lines and colors. The embroidered wrapping cloths were prepared for special rituals and ceremonies such as weddings. Painted wrapping cloths were decorated with a Chinese-colors technique (called dangchae) or sometimes with black ink painting. For printed wrapping cloths, various sizes of woodblock printings and roller printings were used. Although monotone black ink was the main color applied to the printing, there was also wrapping cloths made from chintz having brilliant fast colors. Oiled-paper wrapping cloths called sikjibo were in use only for covering food. Cut-out work was employed to decorate it.

이 논문은 조선후기 보자기에 적용된 다양한 장식 특성을 연구한 것이다. 보자기는 물건을 싸거나 음식을 덮는 등 일차적으로는 실생활에 활용하기 위한 실용적 목적으로 제작되었지만, 보자기 제작은 전래된 상징적 문양의 표현을 통한 현세적 기원의 행위이기도 했으며, 또한 조선의 엄격한 유교 윤리 하에서 여성의 창작 욕구가 자유롭게 발현된 생활 속 여흥의 일부이기도 했다. 한국의 보자기에는 조각 잇기, 자수, 회염, 인염, 오려내기 세공 등 다양한 장식 기법이 활용되었다. 조각 잇기 기법이 활용된 조각보에서는 조선 여인들의 절약습관이 돋보이는데 이는 특히 자원의 재활용을 중시하는 오늘날의 가치와도 일맥상통하는 바가 있다. 자수가 놓인 수보에서는 상징적 문양의 표현을 통한 여인들의 소박한 바램이 읽혀진다. 한국 보자기는 회염이나 인염으로 장식되기도 했는데, 이들은 한국 복식 유물에서는 보기 어려운 장식 기법들이다. 농담을 조절한 다양한 색채의 당채 기법이나 단일색의 먹물 채색, 여러 종류의 도안이 새겨진 목판을 이용한 인염 기법 등이 이용되었다. 음식물이 묻지 않게 하기 위해 때로는 기름 종이로 보자기를 만들기도 했는데, 이러한 식지보에는 오려내기 세공이 장식 기법으로 활용되었다. 오려내기 기법의 원리는 스텐실 염색과 비슷하여 이를 또한 섬유제품 디자인에 활용할 수도 있다.

Keywords

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