• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.510-524
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• 2007

There is something common between the Korean female Kukkuk and the Japanese Takarazuka Revue in that actors are all females and love is the main theme. Some of the females should play men's roles, so they are described as ideal men and are more manly than real men, and female audiences are attracted by them. It is hard for actresses to play men's roles-they have to stretch open their shoulders, walk with long steps and produce a deep voice. They put on a makeup a little exaggeratedly to perfectly disguise themselves as men and express strong images-some red tone makeup on their face, thick eyebrows with their ends upward, thick eye lines to make eyes seem bigger and stronger, and thick side whiskers. On the contrary, a makeup for female characters is softer to highlight femininity with thin penciled hair parted and braided on the sides of the face. The Takarazuka Revue's students are divided into male characters and female ones from the regular course of music schools, and they select their roles in consideration of their height and range of voice, mainly based on their wish. In case of male characters, they need a long career and verification of ability to be the best. Females playing men's roles and showing their manliness are violation of a social custom standardizing the character of males and females and are the reverse of roles expected by a society or a culture. A world experienced by these plays is a kind of revolt breaking the taboo of the patriarchal system.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.23-44
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to clarify the cultural characteristic of dress and adornments by examining articles on dress adornments and related items in Korean newspaper over periods historically and objectively by means of content analysis. This study attempted to at-tain a macro-cultural view by analysing to at-tain a macro-cultural view by analysing closely the cultural characteristics of dress and adornments as a micro-cultural system through culturally based model suggested by hamilton. The two-hundreds and eighty articles on dress and adornments were selected from newspapers(most by form Chosun Ilbo and partly from Maeil Shinbo) pulished between 1920 and 1990. The results were as follows: 1. The culture of dress and adornment received much attention during the 1930's and 1960's and little during 1950's. 2. Various cultural characteristics of dress and adornments appeared on and after 1960's: reporting more foreign news items showing foreign-oriented and future-oriented features showing cultural relativism. In the 1920's and 1970's the contents of news items on dress and adornments show the most common- mass- oriented character. Foreign-oriented cultural tendencies in cloth-ing were increasing during from 1960's to 1970's but the tendencies were turned to rather tradition-oriented features on and after 1980's compare with 1960's-1970's. Advisory critical articles on dress and adornments were small in number and insignificant but compare with other periods these received much atten-tion during the 1920's and 1980's. 3. Ideological components received much at-tention on and after 1920's to 1990. Techo-nological components received much attention during 1920's and little during 1960's. The social structural components received a little attention on and after 1920's-1940's and 1990. 4. News items on women's dress and adornments received much attention from the 1920's to 1960's and news items on both men's and women's dress and adorments were in-creasing and received much attention on and after the 1970's. 5. The pragmatic cultures were mostly re-lated to techonological components and evaluative-normative culture were mostly re-lated to ideological and social structural components. In the light of these results dress and adorments as a cultural sub-system comprise a dynamic inteacting system that articulated directly with the macro-cultural system.

• 복식
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.105-119
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• 2004

Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.63-74
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• 2004

This study shows that clothes to be just the same as the real thing can be Produced through the third dimension computer graphics, and then presents that not only the area of fashion design can be expanded in the virtual reality field by doing the simulation of the fashion show, but also the information can be made the real time public ownership and the communication can be fulfilled smoothly. In this study, analyzing the third dimension computer graphic programs to be used much at present, Alias Wavefront Company's Maya software which was the most effective in the clothes simulation and the clothes CAD SGS OptiTex 8.7 which went well substitutive for it were used of them. The conclusions of this study that got through the work manufacture are as follows： The first, if the file manufacturing in the clothes CAD by using the computer was stored, the pattern used 3D simulation was available because it could be summoned in 3D software. The second, if the data of DXF form in Maya program was summoned, they could not be applied by Maya Cloth supported in Nurbs only because they were recognized as the DXF＿layer. So the curve along the outer lines of the pattern was drawn and Maya Cloth was applied to be possible to get the natural silhouette of clothes. The third, when the clothes were manufactured by 3D, if the draping character was applied according to the textile special quality, not only the control of textile's thickness, weight, quality feeling, and silhouette was available, but also the clothes were available to graft the special textile materials. The fourth, the natural motion of model was produced by capturing the actual model's walking action In order to produce the fashion show motion and also the dynamic fashion show was available by the angle of camera, the establishment of lighting, and etc. in the final rendering. The clothes manufactured by 3D are available to change the design by changing the materials, or by adding the details, or by utilizing the special materials on clothes. Therefore, the trial and error following at the clothes manufacture can be reduced. But the elevation of the rendering speed, the price down, the strengthening of personal security, and etc. are required.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.38-51
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to offer data that designers can utilize substantially, by developing creative materials in knit fashion through the analysis relevant to expression characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture, which were shown in knit fashion of contemporary women, as one of methods of pursuing a plan for being able to be appeared creative and unique knit wear. As for a method of this research, studied concept and characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture by preceding researches. And women's knit fashion was selected that is seen to be 3~18 gauge among the world's 4 collections from 2000~2008. The analysis was made with the analytical frame in mixture pattern, and the analytical frame in design element, and item. The results are as follows. The mixture of kidult element and high fashion was shown with characteristic of expressing humor and fun with graffiti, expression like character and cartoon, and fairy-tale fantasy through the exaggerated trifling article. The mixture of grungy element and high fashion was shown with the expression characteristic in the mixture of heterogenous pattern, and in tear, slit without the end treatment due to fraying the end strand in the knit fashion with basic stitch, patch work, fringing and tone-down gray, use of khaki and blue color, and match in opposite color. The mixture of underwear and high fashion was shown the expression characteristic with the emphasis on underwear line like volume up, or with the mixture of details such as pants in diverse lengths, mini skirt, underwear lace, and ribbon.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.158-170
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• 2016

This study analyzes historical drama costumes as a domain of popular culture through an examination of the changing process, factors, and design characteristics of historical drama costumes according to trend changes in historical dramas after the 2000s. Public interest in Korean traditional clothing has grown due to the historical drama fever. Research results are as follows. First, historical dramas are divided into: authentic historical dramas, popular dramas, and fusion dramas. Historical drama costumes show characters' status and roles to help viewers become absorbed in dramas and increase understanding the historical periods and knowledge. Second, the characteristics of TV historical drama costumes (according to changes of the historical dramas according to 2000) brought diversification as they are diversified by period, genre, and character and costumes which are suitable for them additionally resurfaced. Third, as for the design characteristics by type in TV historical costume after 2000s, authentic historical dramas' design was done by comparatively in-depth historical research based on historical materials to help public understand the past. Popular historical drama costumes are based on history, but the forms of costumes were emphasized (or exaggerated); in addition, colors, subjects, and patterns were modified to emphasize image beauty, dramas' atmosphere, and characters by reflecting intention. The fusion of historical dramas' costumes attracted the attention of the public about Korean designs that harmonized tradition with modernity to actively reflect current trends in past periods and show new types of creative design.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.14-23
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to identify the esthetic features of femme fatale character fashions, which are shown in Movie . The feature of evil femineity is the attribute of evil which brings men to ruin by the dangerous, cunning, and cruel trick, and is expressed in black color, red color, and slash fashion. This fashion shows the dark reverse side of women's sexual desire in relation to anxiety, evil, and death. The feature of sensuality evokes physical pleasures or desires, and maximizes the exposure of sexual regions by tightening or loosening women's body. In the fashion expressing this feature, the forms are fit or loose silhouette. and the colors are black and red. and the materials are soft. This fashion seems to deconstruct the past concept of sex consciousness and emphasize the independent and autonomous femineity. The feature of positiveness combines feminine elements with masculine elements in relation to power elements. This feature is expressed in tailored suit and trousers, with few patterns and details, and in black color and gray color. This fashion reflects the aggressive, challenging, and independent femineity, and expresses the potential defense for the weakness and danger of female body. The feature of purity expresses the earnest and truthful mind, and is expressed in the soft and light one-piece dress, the elegant suit, and the pink color and black color fashion. This fashion shows angel-like and reliable womanly beauty, but at the same time shows women's attribute which changes their behavior and thinking every moment, so that this fashion shows women's double-sided attribute which combines women's weakness and violence, or tenacity and conflict.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.229-244
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• 2010

This study aims to discuss the type and characteristics of primitivism in the modern fashion of the $21^{st}$ century and, as a research method, the concept of primitivism as well as the transition of the patterns of primitivism expressed in modern art have been considered and reviewed through a variety of references. In particular, an empirical analysis of the works that have been created from 2000 to 2009 has been performed using domestic and overseas fashion and collection magazines. The characteristics of primitivism in modern fashion possess the following types of expression: First, Sensuality can be cited as one of the characteristics, either by using direct or indirect exposure of the human body, a silhouette which fits tightly to the body, or creating the effect of sensual beauty using animal fur or bird feathers. Second, Incantation: Masks symbolizing primitive incantation are used to cover the human face or primitive incantation is incorporated as a theme of hair accessories or fashion trinkets, etc. In addition, such decorations as tattoos and the body colorations of ancient tribes are reproduced in modern fashion by means of body painting, printing or other accessories, emphasizing the image of occult primitiveness. Third, Naturalness can be cited as one of the characteristics. Naturalness is emphasized in modern fashion not through artificial decorations and processing, but rather through different patterns of exposure by which natural purity can be felt or through the use of non-artificial materials which recalls primitive civilization. Forth, Playfulness is expressed in the form of graffiti or abstract letters and paintings, and the character of the play is often expressed by the use of grotesque images based on various distortions and exaggerations of the human body, the utilization of symbols of primitive incantation and body and/or facial painting. Fifth, Lastly 'folkishness is emphasized. Folk-like objects, facial decorations, exposure of the body and intense color contrasts typically represent the folkish characteristics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.1031-1047
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• 2010

This study examines the conceptual characteristics of fantasy movies. It also studies the process of socio-cultural changes of the mythical images such as heroes, goddesses and the devil that have often become the centre of fantasy movie characters. This study further examines the features of each character that correspond to specific mythical images. The purpose of this research is to suggest the conceptual and aesthetic characteristics of fantasy reflected in the characters and the costumes of fantasy movies, which were released since the year 2000. The followings are the results of the research: The conceptual characteristics of fantasy reflected in the characters and the costumes of fantasy movies are summarized as representation of reality, allegory and symbols, horror, desire, deconstruction and metamorphosis, otherness and counter-cultural sentiments. The aesthetic characteristics of the costumes of fantasy movies are defined as typicality and symbolism, grotesqueness, sensuality, hybridization, and otherness. These characteristics are very interconnected. The costumes of heroic characters appearing in fantasy movies show strong side of standard while the costumes of the evil characters revealed the limit of dualistic point of worldview centered on West. Heroic characters show realistic and human side that reflects the ethos of the time. Negative characters such as the devil or witches, which were created in human imagination and emotion, become the dynamic force of fantasy movies through their deviant actions. Their clothes, with variety and hybridization, become the source of creativity expected in present society.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.945-956
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• 2011

The purpose for this paper is to categorize and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design by media source. Focused on play-instinct visual expression in contemporary fashion design and adopted media source following the way of communication design. A variety of literatures and online sites for graphic factors in contemporary fashion was studied. The standard of media source is classified as graphic media-source: photography media-source, typography media-source, illustration media-source. With this standard, expressed ways are as followings. First, graphic media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is mostly borrowing existed character or using designer's brand logo. Second, photography media-source in play-instinct expressional fashion design is placed photograph of social issued people in front of shirt. Third, typography media-source in play-instinct expressional contemporary fashion design is mostly expressed social messages or designer's name in brand. Fourth, illustration media-source is the best way to express play-instinct visual expression. Based on these, aesthetic characteristics of graphic factor in contemporary fashion by media source are classified as three: social words, playfulness and information transference. Frequency ratio using media source per aesthetic characteristics is different and these are able to categorize expression way and image feature. In conclusion, expressional way of graphic factors in contemporary fashion design became diverse as social and cultural changing. Frequency of graphic factor use in contemporary fashion is increased than before. This paper suggested that fashion design is one of the way of communicating with people and should be analyzed graphic factors in contemporary fashion design.