• Title/Summary/Keyword: body decoration

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A Study of Production Techniques of the Handles of Swords with Round Pommel Excavated from Jeollabuk-do Made in Before 6 Century (6세기 이전 제작된 전라북도 출토 소환두도의 병부(柄部) 제작기법 연구)

  • Lee, Young-Beom;Seo, Jeong-Ho
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.25 no.1
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 2009
  • Jeollabuk-do is bounded by the sea, and Mahan Baekje culture have been established around a wide plain. Also, in southeastern, it was closed by Gaya kingdom where iron culture was prosperous at that time, a variety of the handles of swords with round pommel is excavated at present. The handles of swords with round pommel is the best amount of excavated objects among the swords with round pommel and producted object for the time. It supposes them to become the foundation of making the decorated swords with round pommel. But, the handles of swords with round pommel that don't have a pattern in handle is indifferent to study because the production method is simple in spite of that the value of archaeological data is sufficient. Therefore, in this study, it examined changed production techniques with the change of times concerning the handles of swords with round pommel of Mahan Baekje Gaya period(before 6C) excavated from Jeollabukdo through using X-rays in order to clarify a variety of production techniques of the handles of swords with round pommel correctly in accordance with a period of production and excavated place. As a result, identified production techniques using X-rays of the handles of swords with round pommel excavated around remains of Mahan Baekje Gaya period shows that production progress improved in order of all-in-one shape, hammer welding shape of the handle of round pommel, and two in body formation in accordance with age. Especially, in two in body shape, it products the handle of round pommel separately, after that it welds the handle of swords and then links the sword blade like a riveting or bottleneck and so on. Despite of improved hammer welding technique, the reason why it didn't utilize is it regards as inlay or gilt will be damaged. And it is judged by using riveting or bottleneck. Also, it appears to techniques of metal craft such as decoration of the handle, decoration of point of sword, inlay, and silver-plating in the period of appearing two in body shape. As clarifying correctly, it provides fundamental database of scientific research about a study of production techniques of handle of swords with round pommel.

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A study of Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments (중국 제복의 상징성에 관한 연구)

  • 이선희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.18
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    • pp.111-131
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    • 1992
  • This thesis was designed to study Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments. Chinese who regarded the life of human beings as the combination of heaven and earth considered garments as the traditional product of the movement of nature. Accordingly, they thought human beings are the center of the universe composed by heaven and earth and the chief of all things; therefore man only can utilize clothes to distinguish from all of the colours. This views of clothes led to the development of liturgical vestments esteemed courtesy than anything else, especially the thought of courtesy associated with Conficius who regarded courtesy as the highest things and since then the theory of Five Elements and courtesy were inherited by all the adherents of Conficius. Yin and Yang Five Elements in the liturgical vestments was given absolute symbolics in both formative side and in colourful side. results of research studied in this was can be summed up as follows : 1. The crown of rites was made imitating after the system of head, horn, beard, bread of birds and beasts and that form of crown is front-circ-ular and back-rectangular meant to be towards light and dark. That the upper part of faceplace is black represented the way of heaven and lower part of red symbolized the way of earth. 2. Upper vestment of liturgical rites symbolizes heaven and outskirt represented earth. So front of outskirt is YANG and back is Yin. It is why then are going to harmonize positive and negative making front part three width and back part four width. Therefore, emperor who symbolizes heaven made the subjects recognize high and low and wore Dae-gu(大 ), Kon-bok(袞服), Bel-bok, Chui-bok, and Hyonbok according to the object and position of rites so that he may rule the country based on courtesy. 3. As an accessory of liturgical vestments, Bul, Pae-ok, Su, Dae-dai, Hyok-Dai, Kyu, and Hol were used. Before Bul was used man dressed skirt as the first waist-dress in order to conceal intimate part of the body. Pae-ok, as decoration blended with jade was worn by men of virtue, so men of virtue symbolized morality and virtue by Pae-ok. Su began from Yeok, connected with Pae-su , in Chou-dynasty is said to be originated by practical needs and they are divided into large Su and small su, and maintained as decoration to signify the class positions. Dae-dai did the work as not to loose the liturgical vestments and leather belt hang Bul and Su to begin as the function of practical use are in later years it became decoration to symboliz e the class position. Kyu was a jade used when empeor nominated feudal lords and observe ceremony to God and Hol, was held in hands to record everything not to forget. These Kyu and Hol became to offer courtesy during the time of rites and in later years it became used according to class position rather than practical use. 4. As far as colours are concerned, colours based by five colours according to YIN-YANG Five Elements theory and they were divided into a primary colour and a secondary colours. Primary colours corresponded with the theory of Five Elements each other, Blue, Red, Tellow, White, and Black symbolized ive Elements, five hour space, five directions, and five emperors. Secondary colours contradict with Blue, Red, Yellow, White and Black and another as a primary colour and they are Green, Scaret, Indigo, Violet, Hun colour, Chu colour, and Chi colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour as primary colour and outskirt was used Hun colour as secondary colours. Thus symbolism in chinese liturgical vestments mainly began with heaven and earth and corresponded with YIN-YANG Five Elements Scool. They were developed as the scholary theory and Conficius and his followers in the later days and continued up to Min-dynasty.

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Comparative Study of the Formal Features and Production Techniques of the Two Ridge-end Tiles Excavated the Geumgangsa Temple Site (금강사지 치미의 형태적 특징 및 제작기법 비교 연구)

  • Shin, Yeonhong;Hwang, Hyunsung;Shin, Myeonghee;Huh, Ilkwon
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.20
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    • pp.31-48
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    • 2018
  • The Geumganasa Temple site two Ridege-end tiles at the Buyeo National Museum(The Buyeo2150-1 and 2150-2, hereinafter referred to as 2150-1 and 2150-2) were excavated the Geumgangsa Temple site. They provide important materials for investigating the shapes and production techniques of the ridge-end tiles of the time since their lower portions remain relatively intact. This study is intended to examine whether the two ridge-end tiles were identical. Conservation treatment, including removal of foreign substances, was conducted in preparation for observation with the naked eye to compare the formal features and production techniques of the two examples. The study revealed that these ridge-end tiles shared formal features such as surface color, clay composition, shape, size, and decoration; however, they differed in terms of production technique. The 2150-1 tile was made by assembling a separately-made body and wing and has no hole through the back, while the 2150-2 tile had its body and wing made as a single unit using long clay plates and features circular holes in the back. It was revealed that one portion of the body of both tiles was intentionally tilted during the production process.

Structural Simplicity Examined from a Perspective of the Comparison of Architecture and Fashion (건축과 패션의 비교를 통해 고찰한 구조적 단순성)

  • Park, Seon-Ji
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2015
  • Fashion and architecture essentially have structure to build space for a form of three dimensions. This study defines the form in which structure in itself becomes design as structural simplicity and investigates design paying attention to only structure. It is one of efforts in order to display new design required in the age of a flood of design and it is considered that before developing design through the fusion of architecture and fashion, understanding structure which is the most fundamental element to constitute the form of the two genres will be a groundwork to develop proper fusion design. This study elucidates similarities between architecture and fashion through literature review and investigates structure meant in architecture and fashion, and after that, collects corresponding examples through related literature and fashion information site. For structural simplicity in architecture, structure of a building in itself is a form and decoration at the same time, and it appears as a form of minimizing other elements and stressing the structure only. Structure in fashion means composition line which essentially exists to embody two dimensional materials onto three dimensional human body. As elements of geometric lines are creatively expressed by a designer in order to constitute three dimensional form from structural simplicity, they connote a variety of functions and exert decorative effects as well. And the shape of structure expressed like this is employed as a tool to show off the designer's techniques.

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Study on Flow and Symbolism of Elvis Aaron Presley Fashion

  • Yum, Hae-Jung;Kim, Eun-Jun;Kim, Ji-Sun;Kim, Cho-Long
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.67-79
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    • 2010
  • Cultural sensation by appearance of Elvis Aaron Presley is thought to have been greatly influenced by spread of popular culture beginning to form with the development of mess media in USA that was changed rapidly after the war, changing aspect of popular music in U.S.A through the media development and teenager culture of USA that has rapidly emerged. Elvis intended to change into 'music to be seen' deviating from 'music to be simply listened to' with expressing the conversion of sexual consciousness, defiance to older generation and a sense of value on wealth, and the like, and also suggested a new culture and style to the young people at that time. Flow of Elvis's fashion may be categorized into the classifications such as the fashion in the period. First, Formative period(before 1954) distinguished by pimp look and sideburns with tough image and wild clothes. Second, Establishment period(1954-57) may be categorized into the hot rockabilly style which showed a glittering fashion by brilliant and colorful costumes, the cool rockabilly style which changed him to a fashionable star of modem image(1958-60). Third, re-heyday(after 1968) where a brilliant and bold decoration was displayed. In Elvis fashion, the masculine sensualism, defiance to main value and expression of luxury and consuming culture, etc. are included as a unique aesthetic consciousness. 'Expression of masculine sensualism' represented the sensualism through sexual objectification of men's body by men's sexual ostentation which was prohibited. 'Defiance to main value' means that attempts of non-mainstream image for social class are expressed with an exercise of power by young people through the public. Although the Elvis look has fanned an anti-culture, it was expressed and accepted as having a normally capitalistic appearance. In addition, it being thought of as the standard, symbolizing a success and a wealth through the presentation of image which accepted this material benefit, we may classify this into 'expression of luxury and consuming culture'.

An Inquiry into the Ancient Jewelry of Ancient Egypt Myth (고대 이집트 신화에 나타난 고대 장신구 연구)

  • Choi, Jin
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.9 no.7
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    • pp.171-183
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    • 2009
  • The spiritual world of the ancient times has precious values which forms the origin of human thought. This study aims to reevaluate ancient people's particular views on man in their spiritual world reflected through gods' ornaments by studying the human race's fundamental spiritual world gradually disappearing due to science development from Egyptian gods' ornaments expressed symbolically in Ancient mythical components. Although evidently ornaments in Egypt served for decoration, the basic purpose was exorcism as amulets, a shamanistic purpose to be protected from mystical and hostile powers by carrying them on the vulnerable spots of the body. As this aspect indicates, the human race tried to solve their self-insoluble transcendental issues through the help of supernatural power, pursuing to lead their lives there within. As a result, Egyptian ornaments; First, the deity raised their value by deifying human-beings. Second, the nobility enhanced their dignity by having goddesses wear the same skirts as theirs. Thirds, all deities maintained their class society by wearing fpassiums, bracelets, and anklets. Fourth, the resurrection was symbolized through gods and goddesses in charge of the afterlife.

The Aesthetic of Baroque Costume Focused on the Gilles Deleuze's 'Le Pli' and Baroque (들뢰즈의 주름 사유와 바로크를 중심으로 본 바로크의 복식미)

  • Sung, Kwang sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.8
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    • pp.64-76
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    • 2015
  • Gilles Deleuze highly evaluated Baroque as the expression body that implements the fold theory, a philosophical thinking about the nature of beings. This can be seen as a meaning that Baroque implements the essence of the world, or the power constituting that essence. In addition, the beauty of Baroque focuses on 'New Harmony' the sum of partial forms caused by each element, and not Platonic harmony. he evaluated the aesthetic of Baroque costume as 'acquisition of liberation and autonomy', 'derived force from infinite spiritual forces'. This study analyzed the contents of the Aesthetic of Baroque costume based on the reviewed Deleuze's folding theory, Baroque aesthetics, and views of Baroque costume. As a result, it inferred the aesthetic of Baroque costume into four types, which are as follows: open structural openness, overlapping structural dynamics, integrated structural diversity, and relationship structural integrity. This study analyzed the aesthetic of Baroque costume based on Deleuze's philosophical thinking. The analysis showed that its aesthetics, which focused on "New Harmony", created energy of life and a venue for expression of power, as the aesthetics eliminated the prejudice of complexity and excessive decoration. In addition, Baroque costume is not the simple historical costume of the past. Instead, it is one of power and spirit, still existing in modern fashion. Baroque costume's formativeness and Paradigm can be said to provide the creative principle important for modern fashion because the aesthetics implemented in Baroque costume accepts free spirit, new challenge, difference and diversity, and is similar to the spirit pursued by modern art and fashion.

A Study on the Fashion of Islamic Image (이슬람풍 패션에 관한 연구)

  • Kim Joeng-a;Jeong Hyeon-nam;Yum Hea-jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.29 no.1 s.139
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    • pp.23-34
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study is to spread the public recognition for the style of Islamic dress has been ignorantly left and provide this as the basic data for Islamic fashion design. This treatise restricts the Islamic scope into the southeast Asia and confuted the study referring to Islam related books, treatise, domestic and foreign fashion magazines as well as newspaper articles, Internet and screen materials. The study results are as follows: Commonly Islam as a term of religious scope means complex cultural body based on Islam. 1. The Islamic social and cultural images were categorized as (1) conservative and sexual (2) simple, static, decorative and rhythmical (3) dark, violent, bright and amusing image. 2. Islamic nations' style of dress was characterized (1) surface decorative dress (2) practical outer garment (3) trousers style. 3. Both men and women basically put on trousers in children's stories and animations. In case of women, they wear skirts and according a social standing, tunic and caftan style jackets. As for men and women, Dey both wear turbans or chadors but in particular, wealthy classes put on a distinguishable turbans and chadors with splendid accessories. 4. The characteristics of Islamic fashion are lace decoration around a sleeve and the waist or blouse and harem pants with a elastic cord. In addition, they are splendid necklace and ring earings looking old, accessories with big pendants and dragging belts. These examples are shown in collections and streets.

Classification of Hand Types for the Development of Glove Patterns (장갑 패턴 개발을 위한 손의 유형 분류)

  • Lim, Ji-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.43 no.8 s.210
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    • pp.115-122
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    • 2005
  • The hand performs functions such as grabbing and other movements. In order to accomplish these movements in various kinds of operational environments, appropriate gloves must be worn to protect your hands. Choosing the appropriate type of glove is very important when wearing gloves in these types of operational environments. The reasons one wears gloves varies depending on age and gender. Unmarried women in their early twenties, for example, occasionally wear gloves for decoration rather than for functional reasons. However, previous studies examined a range of topics, and as such investigations dealing with specific body shape and demands of consumer are needed. Therefore in this study, the hands of unmarried women ranging in age from 20 to 24 were measured and hand shape types were analyzed in order to present basal data which can be used to help design improved glove patterns and produce appropriate, functional gloves. A total of 261 Korean women were measured. Fifty-seven right hand dimensions were measured and five dimensions from both hands were measured. Six factors were identified through factor analysis and those factors constituted $73.259\%$ of total variance. Two clusters of hand shapes were categorized using 6 factor scores by cluster analysis. Type 1 hand shape is defined as long hands with small width, girth, and thickness, long and thin fingers, and high vertical palm height. Type 2 hand shape is defined as short hands with large width, girth and thickness, short fingers, thick knuckles, and short vertical palm height. The characteristics of type 1 and 2 hand shapes are similar to women's hand type classification results from previous reports, but there was a significant difference in subject distribution by type. Therefore, standard data on hand shapes should be produced by developing measuring instruments and selling more accurate standard measuring points. By doing this it could help in the development of improved glove patterns, and also aid in planning production based on hand type.

The Type and Structure of Men's Belt in Early-Middle of Chosun Era (조선 초·중기 출토 허리끈의 유형과 구조 - 여산 송씨 출토 허리끈을 중심으로 -)

  • Son, Hee-Jin;Kwo, Young-Suk
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.5
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    • pp.672-678
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    • 2011
  • This was written based on the type and structure of korean man's waist belt in the early and middle era of the Chosun era. The waist belt was excavated from the Mokdaldong in the Daejeon city. The types of korean man's waist belt in the Chosun era were classified into Wondahae (i.e., round shape belt) and Gwangdahae. The Wondahae consist of two types which are circle shaped and straight types. The circle shaped wondahae contain one fringe in the main body of the belt and its joint part is decorated with a small network such as lacing decoration with the size about 1 cm around. The shape of the Wondahae has been changed from the circle shaped into the straight types and also has a tendency to be wider and longer as time went by. The standard form of the Gwangdahae is straight with about 2-3 cm width and elaborated by lacelike fringe as well. This also has a tendency to be wider starting from the 1600s show. The structure of this belts were divided into braid and ornament parts. The ornament part was constructed with the lacelike netting and fringe parts. The sophisticated craft techniques have a great decorative beauty. Through an analysis of FT-IR, the materials of those three belt are known which are made of the silk and the core thread was filled with cotton. Moreover, it can be confirmed that the glitter material of the ornament part were designed with gold foil and has been analyzed with SEM-EDX.