• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.151-170
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

• 과학기술학연구
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.1-30
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• 2005

최근 들어 예술가들은 과학과 기술에 더 많이 의존하고, 과학자들은 '아름다움'과 같은 미학의 언어를 더 자주 사용하고 있다. 양쪽 모두의 필요에 의해서 '두 문화' 사이의 거리가 가까워지고 있으며, 과학과 예술 사이의 상호작용이라는 주제는 최근 미술사학자들은 물론 과학기술사학자들에 의해서 활발하게 연구되고 있다. 과학적 실행(practice)의 다양성과 복잡성이 밝혀지면서, 서로 전혀 다른 것이라고 간주되던 과학적 실행과 예술적 실행 사이의 유사성도 지적이 되었다. 과학과 예술의 관련과 상호작용을 분석하는 본 논문은 아래와 같은 세 가지 목적을 가지고 있다. 첫 번째 목적은 과학과 예술이 서로 상대의 영역에 미친 영향을 분석함으로써 과학과 예술이라는 두 문화 사이에 놓여있는 간극을 좁히고 공동 관심사와 중첩된 영역을 드러냄으로써 서로에 대한 관심을 유발한다는 것이다. 두 번째는 과학적 실행과 예술적 실행에 대한 최근의 연구 성과를 소개하고 이에 대한 상세한 분석을 통해서 과학적 창의성과 예술적 창의성의 본질에 한 발 더 접근한다는 것이다. 이 논문은 과학적 창의성과 예술적 창의성 사이에 상당한 유사성과 심지어 공통점이 있음을 지적할 것이다. 이 연구의 세 번째 목적은 과학과 예술의 창의성의 공통점을 조명함으로써 예술과 마찬가지로 과학에서도 '상상력', '직관', '감정', '시각화'의 중요성을 강조하는 것이다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.97-115
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• 2022

The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제10권
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• pp.183-218
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• 2006

Colors change in time corresponding with the value system and aesthetic consciousness of the time. The roles that colors play in painting can be divided into the formative role based on the contrast and harmony of color planes and the aesthetic role expressed by colors to represent the objects. The aesthetic consciousness of the orient starts with the Civility(禮) and Pleasure(樂), which is closely related with restrained or tempered human feelings. In the art world of the orient including poem, painting, and music, what are seen and felt from the objects are not represented in all. Added by the sentiment laid background, the beauty of the orient emphasizes the beauty of restraint and temperance, which has long been the essential aesthetic emotion of the orient. From the very inception of oriental painting, colors had become a symbolic system in which the five colors associated with the philosophy of Yin and Yang and Five Forces were symbolically connected with the four sacred animals of Red Peacock, Black Turtle, Blue Dragon, and White Tiger. In this color system the use of colors was not free from ideological matters, and was further constrained by the limited color production and distribution. Therefore, development in color expression seemed to have been very much limited because of the unavailability and unreadiness of various colors. Studies into the flow in oriental painting show that color expression in oriental painting have changed from symbolic color expression to poetic expression, and then to emotional color expression as the mode of painting changes in time. As oriental painting transformed from the art of religious or ceremonial purpose to one of appreciation, the mast visible change in color expression is the one of realism(simulation). Rooted on the naturalistic color expression of the orient where the fundamental properties of objects were considered mast critical, this realistic color expression depicts the genuine color properties that the objects posses, with many examples in the Flower & Bird Painting prior to the North Sung dynasty. This realistic expression of colors changed as poetic sentiments were fused with painting in later years of the North Sung dynasty, in which a conversion to light ink and light coloring in the use of ink and colors was witnessed, and subjective emotion was intervened and represented. This mode of color expression had established as free and creative coloring with vivid expression of individuality. The fusion of coloring and lyricism was borrowed from the trend in painting after the North Sung dynasty which was mentioned earlier, and from the trend in which painting was fused with poetic sentiments to express the emotion of artists, accompanied with such features as light coloring and compositional change. Here, the lyricism refers to the artist's subjective perspective of the world and expression of it in refined words with certain rhythm, the essence of which is the integration of the artist's ego and the world. The poetic ego projects the emotion and sentiment toward the external objects or assimilates them in order to express the emotion and sentiment of one's own ego in depth and most efficiently. This is closely related with the rationale behind the long-standing tradition of continuous representation of same objects in oriental painting from ancient times to contemporary days. According to the thoughts of the orient, nature was not just an object of expression, but recognized as a personified body, to which the artist projects his or her emotions. The result is the rebirth of meaning in painting, completely different from what the same objects previously represented. This process helps achieve the integration and unity between the objects and the ego. Therefore, this paper discussed the lyrical expression of colors in the works of the author, drawing upon the poetic expression method reflected in the traditional Flower and Bird Painting, one of the painting modes mainly depending on color expression. Based on the related discussion and analysis, it was possible to identify the deep thoughts and the distinctive expression methods of the orient and to address the significance to prioritize the issue of transmission and development of these precious traditions, which will constitute the main identity of the author's future work.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1979

This is a study on angels' costumes in religious paintings, especially as this relates to the questions of concepts and theological symbolism. Angels, as spiritual creatures in Christian thought, play the role of praising God's glory, as messengers of God, the role of guarding Israel and the Church, and protecting or punishing human beings. Sometimes the angels appear in incarnate form. They display no sexual differences and are not able to procreate. The angels' funtional classification being thus; nevertheless, they are pictured in various costumes and appearances according to characteristics of the paintings. The angel Michael appears as a man of dignity when pictured as a guard; the angel Gabriel in the annunciation is often portrayed as a woman of mystical beauty. Under the Renaissance, the mighty cherubim and seraphim at Yahweh's throne are degraded as plump child-angels, or winged child-heads looking alike Eros or Cupid. They have become playful and all too obviously non-heavenly chrubs, accepted features of the Temple decorations. However, cherubim are often depicted as naked or wrapped around with a piece of cloth and accompanied with wind, which symbolizes the Glory of God. The angels, costumes without seam are hung over or wrapped around the body, and when sewn they are simple and ample enough that they fall in a great many folds. However, by the 14C. angels are mostly dressed in costumes common to all Europe, and after that angels gradually appear in folk costumes; for example Italian, Flemish, etc. Dalmatic, the typical costume of Byzantine often shows up as angels' dresses even after the period. Originally the dalmatic was the Roman tunic to which Eastern influences added. The Roman clavus on the tunic had gradually lost distinction until, by the Imperial epoch, it was worn by the lowest servants. It was proudly therefore, as 'The servants of God', that the early Christians are shown wearing the clavus on their wide, ungirdled, sleeved dalmatics. In addition to their costume, angels have some other distinct charateristics. First, angels have a halo around their head; this symbolizes their holiness. Second, angels wear a narrow diadem or a queen's crown that seems to denote their glorious status close to God's throne. Third, the cloth band across the breast resembles a priest's stole, which suggests the sacred role of a priest and symbolizes the grace santified. Fourth, lilies in the annunciations are symbols of Mary's virginity. chastity, innocence and heavenly bliss. Angels hold palms or olives in their hands. The former denote prosperity. beauty and the Christians' reward after death; the latter represent peace and amity. the imperial crown made of olives means victory. Fifth, angels in paintings always have a pair of wings, which can be traced to scripture where cherubim and seraphim are described as having pairs of wings. Angels' wings often have colors of the rainbow, and the rainbow is compared to God's glory. Sixth, generally artists paint angels' costumes as white, blue, green, gold and purple. Other colors such as red rarely appear. According, to scriptures it is believed that angels should be depicted 'as white as snow'. According to the biblical expressions of angels as lightning, sun or a pillar of fire, angels should be described as creatures of light. Nevertheless being a form of art, religious paintings may differ in their presentation according to an artist's inspiration and intention. Since religious paintings illustrated above were almost all done before the Reformation, symbols of colors used in the Catholic Church will also be mentioned. The white color symbolizes chastity, purity, brightness, delight and divinity. Green represents new birth, eternal life, spiritual revival and the expectance of the grace of God. Blue, the color of sapphires, denotes chastity and truth. Red, the color of rubies, represents divinity, love and religious passion. Violet is the color of dignity, indicating the sovereign, royal or imperial power and the great Sacrifice of Christ. As mentionad above, angels' costumes were expressed in accordance with contemporary patterns or as indicated in the Bible, and accesories and colors correspond with Christian symbols. Therefore these facts should be taken into consideration when it comes to the study of costume history.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제38권4호
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• pp.101-110
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• 2020

본 연구는 정원박람회에 출품한 작품 중에서 전통을 테마로 설정한 작가정원 14개소의 사례연구로서 문헌 분석과 현장 조사로 진행하였다. 전통재현을 결정하는 설계과정에 주목하고 작품마다 설계목표 수립, 전통재현의 대상 선정, 재현의 방법 결정, 경관구성요소 디자인 단계를 분석하여 다음과 같은 전통재현 특성과 시사점을 도출하였다. 첫째, 다수의 작가정원에서 전통구조물을 재현 대상으로 선정한 양상은 좁은 부지에 적합하고 주제 전달성이 좋다는 장점으로 이해할 수 있다. 이들은 작품명에 마당, 울, 부뚜막, 장독대, 취병과 석가산 등 전통구조물의 명칭을 넣어 설계의도를 직접 전달하였는데, Wall, 한국정원, 수원, 서울 장인처럼 간접적으로 표현한 작품들은 주제 전달성이 상대적으로 약하다. 선비, 여백, 풍류와 같이 재현 대상을 상징적으로 표현한 작품도 있었다. 둘째, 한옥마당을 재현하면서 잔디와 석재로 포장한 정원, 수원화성 성곽과 망루 서북공심돈(西北空心墩)을 분리하고 연계성 없는 용연(龍淵)을 미니어처 형태로 배치한 정원과 낙안읍성을 모티브로 하여 휴게공간에 낮은 장식담장으로 재현한 정원은 전통에 대한 깊이 있는 이해가 필요함을 보여준다. 반면 전통정원의 입지 선택, 주변 환경과 유기적 배치가 중요함을 보여준 한국정원, 한옥 중정이 가진 여백의 미와 선비가 누렸던 느림의 미학, 달밤 뱃놀이라는 풍류 문화를 재현한 작품들은 전통구조물 모사를 넘어 전통에 대한 이해가 정원문화와 정서로 확산된 양상이다. 셋째, 디자인과 관련하여 실제 크기의 전통구조물을 직설적 방법으로 재구성한 작품이 많았다. 취병으로 정원을 구획하고, 담장안에 부뚜막, 굴뚝, 텃밭 등으로 생활공간을 꾸미고, 경복궁, 소쇄원, 서석지를 대표하는 시설들을 유기적으로 배치하였다. 하지만 규모가 큰 수원화성과 낙안읍성을 추상적 방법으로 재현한 작품들로부터 핵심이 되는 디자인 요소의 취사선택, 구조물의 입면 구성, 공간의 스케일감에 대한 중요성을 인식하였다. 해체적 방법을 선택한 정원 중에는 원형 이미지와 멀어진 한옥 마당과 바자울의 사례가 있는 반면에 정육면체를 구성한 프레임만으로 표현한 여백의 정원과 많은 전통구조물로 달빛 스며든 선비의 사랑방을 재구성한 정원은 긍정적 사례이다. 현대적으로 디자인한 경관구성요소들을 전시한 서울 장인 정원, 직지심체정원, 풍류정원은 작가의 의도를 이해할 수 있는 설명이 필요하다.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제11권
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• pp.5-35
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• 2007

예술을 논함에 있어 '과학의 진보'와 '인간의 정서'라는 두 가지 문제의 상충은 끊임없이 대두되었다. 과학의 편리성, 그 이면에 존재하는 인간본연의 감성인 '자연'은 점차 크게 자리잡아갔다. 20세기말부터 성행하던 다소 삭막하게 느껴지는 미니멀리즘을 벗어나 점점 인간과 자연이 하나가 될 수 있는 자연주의가 강조되었고, '자연'은 21세기를 살아가는 우리에게 주어진 가장 중요한 화두로 떠올랐다. 기계와 과학에 의해 삶이 양적으로 향상되어질수록, 삶의 질을 향상시키고자 하는 '자연'에 대한 향수가 인간에게 더욱 절실하게 되었다. 이에 '자연'을 좀 더 효과적으로 나타내고자 아르누보양식의 표현요소를 도입하여, '자연'을 현대적으로 표현한 조형적 특성을 연구하였다. 아르누보는 자연물의 유기적인 형태로부터 모티브를 찾아 이것을 양식화하여 장식미술로 적용하였다. 이는 과거의 양식에서 인용과 절충을 반복하는, 역사주의적 전통을 과감히 개혁함으로써 현대디자인의 문을 열었고, 더불어 미술을 모든 생활에 실용화하려는 점에서 커다란 역사적 의미를 갖는 양식이다. 신예술을 의미하는, 19세기말부터 20세기 초에 걸쳐 번성했던 아르누보는 한 세기가 지난 현재에 와서 재평가되고 수용되어 다양하고 새롭게 나타나고 있다. '자연주의'를 근본으로 하는 아르누보 양식은 현대에 오면서 내추럴리즘이 주류를 이루고, 여성스런 로맨티시즘이 유행하면서 패션, 가구, 유리 공예, 보석 공예 등의 다양한 장르의 예술에서 모티브로 부활하고 있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 아르누보에서 나타난 식물모티브를 적용한 다양한 분야의 아르누보작가들의 작품을 중심으로 형태적 요소와 표현요소의 특성을 다양하게 해석하고, 이를 바탕으로 나타난 공통된 조형미를 분석하고자하였다. 아르누보양식에서 나타나는 섬세하고 화려한 곡선의 장식미와 형태의 부드럽고 유려한 곡선표현의 효과적인 디자인적용가능성을 살펴보고, 이를 통해 창의적으로 분석된 조형이미지로의 아르누보 식물모티브를 디자인에 새롭게 시도하는 계기가 되고자 한다.

• 대중서사연구
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.43-76
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• 2020

이 논문은, 윤심덕과 김우진 소재의 영상물 세 편을 비교한 후, 그 중 가장 소재 구현의 복합성이 살아 있는 영화 <사의 찬미>(1991)에 대해, 감독 및 연기자의 이전 작품과의 관계 중심으로 집중적으로 그 특성을 탐색한다. 영화 <윤심덕>(1969)은 삼각관계 및 본처와 혼외 여성 중심의 멜로 서사에 주력하고, 드라마 <사의 찬미>(2018)는 일제 강점기의 고통까지 관습적 이미지로 포장하면서 청춘남녀의 이상적 애정물을 추구한다. 이에 비해 1991년 영화 <사의 찬미>는 영상미에 치중하는 동시에, 두 인물이 선구적 예술인으로 겪은 고뇌를 좌절된 사랑의 서사와 겹쳐 놓는다. 이 과정에서 이 영화는 다른 두 편에 비해, 특히 여주인공 중심의 모순적 특성을 드러낸다. 그녀는 남성의 구원을 위한 수동성과 자기 삶의 추락마저 스스로 선택하는 능동성 사이에서 균열을 보인다. 이 특성을 살피기 위해 영화 <사의 찬미>에 영향을 미친 이전 작품들에 대해 고찰해본다. 김호선 감독과 연기자 장미희의 1970년대 영화들, 또한 그녀가 1980년대에 배창호 감독과 함께 한 영화에서 구축해온 인물상의 맥락이 그 고찰의 대상이다. 대중영화의 장 안에 부분적으로 고급문화를 지향하는 태도를 담아내며, 섹슈얼리티를 포함한 욕망의 문제와 정신적·지성적 문제를 중첩시키는 경향은, 이전 작업에서부터 영화 <사의 찬미>에 이어져 윤심덕 구현의 배경을 이룬다. 이 연구는 1991년 영화 <사의 찬미>를 두 가지 맥락에서 살피는 결과를 낳는다. 그 하나는 윤심덕과 김우진 소재 영상물의 맥락이고, 또 하나는 김호선 감독이나 연기자 장미희가 지속해온 작업의 맥락이다. 지금까지도 윤심덕과 김우진을 소재로 한 작품들은 계속 나오고 있다. 이런 상황에서, 해당 소재 작품의 대표 사례인 이 영화를 입체적 맥락에서 살핌으로써, 윤심덕과 김우진 소재가 제공하는 허구화의 효과와 난점을 재확인할 수 있다.