• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.663-671
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• 2013

The width of Haeundae beach has been decreasing annually due to the loss of sand from land, high waves, reflected waves, etc.. The accurate prediction of wave-induced currents is indispensible to analyze the beach deformation due to the sediment transport. In the this study, Numerical experiments were performed with seasonal representative wave on the basis of a long term and comprehensive survey data. In summer, we found the deposition of Mipo by longshore current eastly by ordinary and S waves, and in winter, the deposition of Dongback-island by longshore current westly by ordinary and E waves. In addition, rip current occurs in the middle of Haeundae beach by 50 year return period wave and current westly along the coast by ESE directional wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.265-277
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• 2019

Using the measured data of waves and shore-line, we reviewed the grand circulation process and seasonal variation of beach cusp at the Mang-Bang beach from the perspective of trapped mode Edge waves known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp. In order to track the temporal and spatial variation trends of beach cusp, we quantify the beach cusp in terms of its wave length and amplitude detected by threshold crossing method. In doing so, we also utilize the spectral analysis method and its associated spectral mean sand wave number. From repeated period of convergence and ensuing splitting of sand waves detected from the yearly time series of spectral mean sand wave number of beach cusp, it is shown that the grand circulation process of beach cusp at Mang-Bang beach are occurring twice from 2017. 4. 26 to 2018. 4. 20. For the case of beach area, it increased by $14,142m^2$ during this period, and the shore-line advanced by 18 m at the northen and southern parts of the Mang-Bang beach whereas the shore-line advanced by 2.4 m at the central parts of Mang-Bang beach. It is also worthy of note that the beach area rapidly increased by $30,345m^2$ from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22. which can be attributed to the nature of coming waves. During this period, mild swells of long period were prevailing, and their angle of attack were next to zero. These characteristics of waves imply that the main transport mode of sediment would be the cross-shore. Considering the facts that self-healing capacity of natural beaches is realized via the cross-shore sediment once temporarily eroded. it can be easily deduced that the sediment carried by the boundary layer streaming toward the shore under mild swells which normally incident toward the Mang-Bang beach makes the beach area rapidly increase from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.187-196
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• 1998

Morphological changes around the groin system in the beach are examined using a numerical model. The model consists of two parts : the hydrodynamic model which calculates the transformation of waves and currents, and the sediment transport model which determines sediment transport rates and bottom topographic changes. The numerical model is applied to single-groin and three-groin systems on a typical plane beach. The changes to the beach system due to waves and currents during 150-day simulation near the groins are calculated using sediment transport rate patterns in the domain. The sand by-passing rate patterns around groins are also evaluated.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.221-235
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• 2006

In order to understand the transport mechanism of tidal beach sediments in Deukryang Bay, south coast of Korea, beach profiles, surface sediments, sedimentation rates and hydrodynamic conditions have been investigated. The beach is composed of a steep beach face and gentle low-tide terrace, showing general morphologic characteristics of tide dominated beach. Central beach face of an indented coast becomes flattened in summer, but ridge and runnel system developed in other seasons makes the beach profile rather irregular. These seasonal variations of beach profiles and sedimentation rate indicate that beach sedimentation is mainly controlled by both tide and wave processes. Erosion is prevalent in winter when strong wind wave is dominant, while deposition is dominant in other seasons. However, central beach showed an apparent erosional phase in summer. This is caused by strong waves induced by southerly strong winds occurring ephemerally during the summer. On the other hand, sedimentation rates are -89.2 mm/yr on the central beach and 60.5 mm/yr and 38.2 mm/yr on the sides. This result suggests that sediments are eroded on the central beach and subsequently transported to the both sides. Therefore, the central part of Sumun beach, used as a beach bathing site, will be continuously eroded, if nearby dyke continues to prevent the sediment supply from sources.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 1983

The wave and hydrologic climate at a beach location are everchanging and coastal engineers have always been interested in the deformation of the natural beach caused by wave action over short or long interval of time. The drift of sand on a beach particulary manifests itself when blocked construction of seawalls, jetties, breakerwaters and groins etc.${\cdots}$ For this reason, the understanding and evaluation of littoral drift has been especially important to the coastal engineers. The resulting of the sand drift movement, such as the type of beach profile, width of beach, storage volume of the littoral sand over the profile are rapid everchange. We have studied the geological changes due to the littoral drift on a beach with field investigation and model tests in laboratory. But, it is impossible to make quantative correct analysis because of the factors are everchange and complicate. And then, most of study are incline to qualitative analysis. In this paper, authors studied mainly on the transition of beach profile and sediment storage on the profile using statistical field data as qualitative analytical method. The used theoretical beach transition model by Sonu and Beek have developed to obtain the change of HAEUNDAE beach backed with seawall. Results of this study indicate that the transition model are useful in the analysis of beach profile changement and the littoral drift movement on the beach. Qualitative analysises for HAEUNDAE beach are as follows. 1) Transition sequence of profile has 4 major transition for one cycle. 2) Storage sediment model of beach profile by Sonu and Beek well coincided with HAEUNDAE beach. 3) Seasonal cycle has ill-balanced process for the 5-yr. investigation.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.147-154
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• 1999

A Numerical model is developed in order to predict cross-shore beach profile change. In this model it is assumed that sediment transport is generated by waves(bed load transport suspended load transport) and undertow which is defined as offshore directional steady flow in the surf zone. In addition wave tank experiments which reproduce storm-surge were performed. By comparing resulting profile of calculation with experiments, the applicability of this method is verified.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.49 no.6
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• pp.812-832
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• 2014

We analyzed physical and chemical properties of sediments from 20 subtidal points and 9 beach points to define sedimentary environment between summer and winter of Shindu Marine Protected Area. Means of particle size in summer were generally finer than winter's. There was distinctively spatial pattern that particle sizes became increasingly fine as west direction and apart from beach in summer, but this pattern was not shown in winter. Coarse sediments were prevailed in winter. To explain these patterns, we propose possible two causes which are spatially different water depth condition related with seasonal wave climate or fine sediment input from an estuary located in south of this area during summer rainy season. Contents of exchangeable cations of sediment in summer were shown $Na^+$>$Ca^{2+}$>$Mg^{2+}$>$K^+$ in order, but those of winter were shown $Na^+$>$Mg^{2+}{\fallingdotseq}Ca^{2+}$>$K^+$. Contents of $Na^+$, $Mg^{2+}$, and $K^+$ were related with contents of fine sediment and showed high correlation in each other. These relations were not shown between $Ca^{2+}$ and others. Our results show that there are spatio-temporal unique sedimentary environments between subtidal zone, beach, and dune near Shindu Marine Protected Area. Therefore, we should consider these spatio-temporal patterns for environmentally sound management of Shindu coastal system.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.320-333
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• 2019

In this study, a physics-based 3D morphology model for the estimation of an erosion rate of nourished beach is newly proposed. As a hydrodynamic module, IHFOAM toolbox having its roots on the OpenFoam is used. On the other hand, the morphology model comprised a transport equation for suspended sediment, and Exner type equation derived from the viewpoint of sediment budget with the bed load being taken to accounted. In doing so, the incipient motion of sediment is determined based on the Shields Diagram, while the bottom suspended sediment concentration, the bed load transport rate is figured out using the bottom shearing stress directly calculated from the numerically simulated flow field rather than the conventional quadratic law and frictional coefficient. In order to verify the proposed morphology model, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling, breaking over the uniform beach of 1/m slope, and its ensuing morphology change. Numerical results show that the partially skewed, and asymmetric bottom shearing stresses can be successfully simulated. It was shown that sediments suspended and eroded at the foreshore by wave breaking are gradually drifted toward a shore and accumulated in the process of up-rush, which eventually leads to the formation of swash bar. It is also worth mentioning that the breaker bar formed by the sediments dragged by the back-wash flow which commences at the pinnacle of up-rush as the back-wash flow gets weakened due to the increased depth was successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.177-191
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• 2004

Monitoring has been done for the shingle beach in Hagdong Beach in Geojesi, City during the seven month period. The shingle beach has been found to go through the cyclic change according to the tidal schedule. The typhoon Rusa in year 2002 affected whole beach face. Sea wall, constructed to protect the village along the beach, aggravates the situation, since it cut off the supply of shingle from the marine terrace, upon which village was built. Concrete walls along the streams also diminish the supply of shingles from the mountains. To protect the shingle beach and encourage the sustainable eco-tourism long-term monitoring on sediment budget is necessary.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.199-206
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• 2004

Construction of a large offshore structure in coastal area may cause serious morphological changes for a wide region ranging from shoreline to offshore behind the structure. Shin et at. [2000] and Shin and Hong [2004] identified the sediment transport patterns behind the large offshore structure through a series of three dimensional movable bed experiments. In present study, a hybrid three dimensional beach deformation model was suggested based on those sediment transport mechanisms revealed by experimental results of the preceding studies. The model was verified by the results of the three dimensional moveable bed experiments and they agreed well not only in reappeared tombolo in shoreline side but also in the erosion and deposition region behind offshore structure. In addition, the model was applied to real beach deformation problem, which was occurred by construction of artificial offshore islands, and it validates the applicability of the model.