• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2012

The cross-shore sediment transport in a coastal region causes the important changes in beach morphological properties. The accurate estimation of the cross-shore sediment transport is important for the designing of the marine structures such as seawalls, jetties, breakwaters etc, and the preventing coastal erosion and accretion due to on-off shore sediment transportation. In this study, the experiments on cross- shore sediment transport carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial beach slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, the geometrical characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and the parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials having medium diameters of $d_{50}$=0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. The experimental results obtained from this study compared with previous experimental work and found to be of the same magnitude as the experimental measurements and followed the expected basic trend.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.15-20
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• 2007

The harbor siltation by longshore sediment transports has become a serious problem on the East Coast of Korea. A reasonable prediction of the longshore sediment rate is important to approach the siltation problem effectively. In the recently developed 1-line model, the empirical constants of the sediment transport formula, which include the absolute quantity of sediment transport rate and the spatial distribution of breaking wave height by wave deformation, are treated as calibration parameters. Since these constants should be determined by the very long-term shoreline data, the longshore sediment rates are much more reasonable values. The method was applied to Hupo Beach, which has experienced heavy siltation. The authors also discuss long-term shoreline change using aerial photos and the observed wave-induced current patterns. According to the result, the SW-direction sediment transport rate was $146,892m^3/year$, and the NE direction was $2,694,450m^3/year$ at Hupo Beach for the last 11 years. The siltation in Hupo Harbor might be affected by the NE-direction sediment transport from Hupo Beach.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

해빈 안정화를 위한 구조물 설계 시 주 표사이송 모드와 모드별 년 표사 이송량에 관한 정보는 상당한 공학적 가치를 지닌다. 이러한 시각에서 본고에서는 현재 상당한 침식이 진행되고 있는 맹방해변의 년 표사 이송량을 산출하였다. 횡단표사의 경우 Bagnold(1963)의 에너지 모형을 확장한 Bailard(1981)의 모형을 활용하였으며, 연안 표사량은 각 해안에서 가용한 파랑에너지 유입률에 의해 결과 되는 것으로 해석하였다. Bailard(1981)의 횡단표사모형 적용에 필요한 유속 적률은 먼저 맹방해변에서 관측된 파랑자료로부터 출현 가능한 총 71개의 파랑주기 복합사상을 선정하고, 선정된 복합사상을 대상으로 수행된 맹방해변에서의 비선형 천수과정 수치모의 결과로부터 산출하였다. 이 과정에서 파랑모형으로는 주파수 영역 Boussinesq Eq.(Frelich and Guza, 1984)을 활용하였으며, 모의결과 Bailard(1981)의 연구와는 달리 유속 적률과 Irribaren NO. 간에 존재하는 뚜렷한 상관관계를 확인할 수 있었다. 산출 결과 맹방해변 평균 방위 ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$의 경우 북서진하는 연안표사가 우월하며 그 양은 년 $125,000m^3/m$에 달하였다. 북서진하는 연안표사와 남동진하는 연안표사가 균형을 이루는 null point는 ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$에 위치하며, 횡단표사의 경우 4월부터 10월 중순까지는 연안방향으로의 퇴적이 점진적으로 진행되나 10월 말과 삼월에 단발적으로 발생하는 고파랑에 의해 침식되는 것으로 판단된다. 또한 맹방해변의 연안표사 장미도(littoral drift rose)를 산출하였으며, 그 결과 맹방해변의 방위가 일시적으로 null point의 방위보다 큰 경우 남동진하는 연안표사가 우월하며, 방위가 일시적으로 null point의 방위보다 작은 경우 북서진하는 연안표사가 우월한 경향을 확인하였으며, 이는 맹방해변은 일시적으로 침식되더라도 스스로 복원할 수 있는 능력을 지닌 안정적인 해변임을 의미한다.

• 대한원격탐사학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.225-231
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• 2009

The characteristics of morphological shapes, wave heights, tidal ranges and sediment sizes are observed and compared between intertidal beach and mudflat. The Mohang sand beach, southwest coast of Korea, is located just next to the large mudflat and has tidal range over 5 meters. Wave measurements are conducted at each entrance of the beach and mudflat as well as at the outside waters representing the incident waves to these different coastal environments. The morphological characteristics are also examined including the sediment size and the slope of the bathymetry, For the observation of morphological shapes, camera monitoring technique is used to measure the spatial information of intertidal bathymetry. The water lines moving on the intertidal flat/beach durinq a flood indicate depth contours between low and high water lines. The water lines extracted from the consecutive images are rectified to get the ground coordinates of each depth contours and integrated to provide three dimensional information of intertidal topography. The wave data show that sand beach is in the condition of severer wave forcing but tidal range is almost identical in both environment. The slope of the mudflat is much milder than the sand beach with finer sediment.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.611-620
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• 2008

해안침식의 과정은 여러가지 원인이 복합적으로 작용하여 발생되는 경우가 많다. 일반적으로 해안침식은 표사이동의 평형파괴, 호안의 건설 및 이안류 발생 등과 같은 다양한 원인으로부터 야기된다. 따라서, 이러한 해안침식현상을 제어하기 위해서는 해안침식을 야기시키는 주된 원인을 정확히 파악하는 것이 가장 우선시 되어야 하고, 그 주원인에 대한 대책을 수립해야만 한다. 본 연구에서는 파랑이 탁월한 동해안의 전촌-나정해안을 대상으로 표사이동에 따른 침식현상을 검토하고 침식의 주원인을 도출하고자 하였다. 원인분석방법으로는 현장관측자료, 항공사진분석 및 수치모형실험을 이용하였다. 그 결과 대상해역에 있어서 해안침식의 주원인은 전촌, 나정항의 건설 및 호안건설에 의한 것임을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제16권4
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• pp.258-267
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• 2004

해안 방재 또는 연안 개발 목적으로 축조되는 해안 및 항만 구조물은 건설된 후 건설 전의 연안 토사 이동의 양상을 변화시켜 해안선 침식은 물론 해안 환경까지 영향을 미친다. 본 연구에서는 건설 후의 해안선 변화 예측을 위하여 필수적인 해안선 또는 해안 단면 자료를 이용하여 연안 표사 이동량을 예측하는 새로운 기법을 제시하고 하와이 Kailua 해빈의 단면 관측 자료와 강릉 일대 해안선 관측 자료를 이용하여 연안 표사의 이동량 양상을 규명한다.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.277-286
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• 2013

Cross-shore sediment transport is very important factor in the design of coastal structures, and the beach profile is mainly affected by a number of parameters, such as wave height and period, beach slope, and the material properties of the bed. In this study cross-shore sediment movement was investigated using a physical model and various offshore bar geometric parameters were determined by the resultant erosion profile. The experiments on cross- shore sediment transport carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial base slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, the geometrical of sediment transport rate and considerable characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and bar parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials with the medium diameter of $d_{50}$=0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. Non-dimensional equations were obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and were compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equations with respect to the previously developed equations.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.39-45
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• 2002

The seasonal patterns of sediment supply were investigated during the period of June 1999 to June 2000 on a coastal foredune of Seungbong Island, Korea. Sediment supply was determined from measurements of geomorphic changes in the foredune and beach along six lines. Most sands were deposited on the dunefoot and foredune area during the winter and spring, from November to April. The largest amount of sands was deposited along the lines 5 and 6 near the sea-dike in the southern tip of the dune area. In general, the sand on the beach was gradually eroded in spring, summer and fall but deposited in winter. Total sediment accumulation over the study period was $484m^3$ for the foredune and $345m^3$ for the beach. The volume of the foredune increased in the winter and spring, whereas the volume of beach increased in the winter. Variation in sediment deposition appears to be controlled primarily by variations in the seasonal wind regime.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.547-556
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• 2007

해운대 연안에서 파랑, 해빈류 및 조석류에 의한 표사이동을 TRANSPOR-2004를 이용해서 계절별 표사수지를 분석하였다. 그 결과로부터 년간의 표사수지를 계산하고 표사의 유출입경로를 유추하였다. 해수욕장의 동쪽 해안을 따라 해수욕장으로 유입된 표사는 중앙부에서 일부는 20% 정도는 외해로 유출하고 80% 정도는 해안을 따라 동백섬 쪽으로 이동하는 패턴을 나타냈다. 또한 동백섬의 남쪽에선 해안을 따라 해수욕장으로 유입되는 표사이동 패턴도 나타났다. 이 결과는 Gao 모델을 이용하여 봄과 가을의 퇴적물 이동 패턴을 계산한 결과와도 잘 일치하는 것으로 나타났다.