• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.1-7
• /
• 2012

The cross-shore sediment transport in a coastal region causes the important changes in beach morphological properties. The accurate estimation of the cross-shore sediment transport is important for the designing of the marine structures such as seawalls, jetties, breakwaters etc, and the preventing coastal erosion and accretion due to on-off shore sediment transportation. In this study, the experiments on cross- shore sediment transport carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial beach slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, the geometrical characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and the parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials having medium diameters of $d_{50}$=0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. The experimental results obtained from this study compared with previous experimental work and found to be of the same magnitude as the experimental measurements and followed the expected basic trend.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.15-20
• /
• 2007

The harbor siltation by longshore sediment transports has become a serious problem on the East Coast of Korea. A reasonable prediction of the longshore sediment rate is important to approach the siltation problem effectively. In the recently developed 1-line model, the empirical constants of the sediment transport formula, which include the absolute quantity of sediment transport rate and the spatial distribution of breaking wave height by wave deformation, are treated as calibration parameters. Since these constants should be determined by the very long-term shoreline data, the longshore sediment rates are much more reasonable values. The method was applied to Hupo Beach, which has experienced heavy siltation. The authors also discuss long-term shoreline change using aerial photos and the observed wave-induced current patterns. According to the result, the SW-direction sediment transport rate was $146,892m^3/year$, and the NE direction was $2,694,450m^3/year$ at Hupo Beach for the last 11 years. The siltation in Hupo Harbor might be affected by the NE-direction sediment transport from Hupo Beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.31 no.1
• /
• pp.28-39
• /
• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.225-231
• /
• 2009

The characteristics of morphological shapes, wave heights, tidal ranges and sediment sizes are observed and compared between intertidal beach and mudflat. The Mohang sand beach, southwest coast of Korea, is located just next to the large mudflat and has tidal range over 5 meters. Wave measurements are conducted at each entrance of the beach and mudflat as well as at the outside waters representing the incident waves to these different coastal environments. The morphological characteristics are also examined including the sediment size and the slope of the bathymetry, For the observation of morphological shapes, camera monitoring technique is used to measure the spatial information of intertidal bathymetry. The water lines moving on the intertidal flat/beach durinq a flood indicate depth contours between low and high water lines. The water lines extracted from the consecutive images are rectified to get the ground coordinates of each depth contours and integrated to provide three dimensional information of intertidal topography. The wave data show that sand beach is in the condition of severer wave forcing but tidal range is almost identical in both environment. The slope of the mudflat is much milder than the sand beach with finer sediment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.20 no.6
• /
• pp.611-620
• /
• 2008

The process of sediment transport has a very complex mechanism due to waves, currents and bottom topography changes. Usually, beach erosion occurs from various causes such as non-equilibrium sediment transport condition, construction of seawall and rip currents. Therefore, when we try to reduce and develop countermeasures for beach erosion, we have to know the main mode and direction of sediment transport that causes beach erosion. In this study, the process of sediment transport on Jeonchon-Najung beach and main causes of beach erosion have been studied. Field investigation data, aerial photos and the results of numerical model test were used in the analysis. As a result, it was realized that the main causes of beach erosion at Jeonchon-Najung beach was due to the construction of fishery harbors and a seawall.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.258-267
• /
• 2004

Coastal and harbor structures, which are constructed for the beach protection and coastal zone development, often cause the severe beach erosion problem resulted from changes of longshore sediment transport. In this study, we present a new methodology to estimate the longshore sediment transport rates using the measured data of beach profiles or shorelines. The methods is applied for the prediction of longshore sediment transport rates along Kailua beach, Hawaii and shorelines in the vicinity of Anmok Harbor, Korea.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
• /
• v.5 no.2
• /
• pp.277-286
• /
• 2013

Cross-shore sediment transport is very important factor in the design of coastal structures, and the beach profile is mainly affected by a number of parameters, such as wave height and period, beach slope, and the material properties of the bed. In this study cross-shore sediment movement was investigated using a physical model and various offshore bar geometric parameters were determined by the resultant erosion profile. The experiments on cross- shore sediment transport carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial base slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, the geometrical of sediment transport rate and considerable characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and bar parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials with the medium diameter of $d_{50}$=0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. Non-dimensional equations were obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and were compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equations with respect to the previously developed equations.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.61-97
• /
• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Ocean and Polar Research
• /
• v.24 no.1
• /
• pp.39-45
• /
• 2002

The seasonal patterns of sediment supply were investigated during the period of June 1999 to June 2000 on a coastal foredune of Seungbong Island, Korea. Sediment supply was determined from measurements of geomorphic changes in the foredune and beach along six lines. Most sands were deposited on the dunefoot and foredune area during the winter and spring, from November to April. The largest amount of sands was deposited along the lines 5 and 6 near the sea-dike in the southern tip of the dune area. In general, the sand on the beach was gradually eroded in spring, summer and fall but deposited in winter. Total sediment accumulation over the study period was $484m^3$ for the foredune and $345m^3$ for the beach. The volume of the foredune increased in the winter and spring, whereas the volume of beach increased in the winter. Variation in sediment deposition appears to be controlled primarily by variations in the seasonal wind regime.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.547-556
• /
• 2007

The sediment transport by waves, wave-induced current and tidal current was calculated using the TRANSPOR2004, then the seasonal sediment budget was analyzed. Also, annual sediment budget was calculated, and sediment circulation patterns was deduced in the broad area including Haeundae beach. A sediment mainly inflows from the east coast of the beach and then moves to the eastward to the Dongback Is, where the 80% of inflow sediment transported to the eastward as a longshore sediment while 20% of them going out to the offshore at the center of the beach. Above results shows a good agreement with the sediment transport trend analysis results by the Gao model.