• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.953-970
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.709-717
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• 2002

In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.599-611
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop the most appropriate garment patterns for dog. This study is analyzed the body structures and bodily movements of different types of dogs and constructed garment patterns that are appropriate for each category: the basic pattern for dogs with oval-shaped chests; and the modified pattern for the ones with barrel-shaped chests. Analyzing some of the existing patterns in the market as well as studying the size chart of one of the dog apparel manufacturers, who participated in the Fashion Week for the very first time, were undertaken in order to understand the bodily figures and movements of dogs. Furthermore, based the previous studies and relevant information available regarding some of the most popular dogs in four selected countries: (names of the selected countries), dogs were broadly categorized into three groups according to the shape of their chests: Oval, Barrel, and Flat-sided. Later, two types of pattern were created and then constructed for fitting: the basic pattern for oval-shaped chest; and the modified pattern for barrel-shaped chest. As a result, the two patterns turned out to be most suitable for pet dogs.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권10호
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• pp.1596-1610
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• 2010

This study investigates the studies of development of apparel basic pattern published in domestic journals and the trends in related studies. It also provides basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December 31, 2009 and retrieved by a keyword related to the design of basic apparel patterns. The data was classified by the journals, the year of publication, research themes, research subjects, and research methods. They were analyzed to find out the overall distribution status and characteristics by time. The number of theses for the analysis was 73 published in 11 Journals total. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 7 Chronicles of 5 years in each term since the first thesis was published in 1968, it was found that more active research had been done as time went by. The theme of the theses in most cases was the composition of western apparel. As for items, most cases were on the study of bodice torso basic patterns. Since the period of 5-6 Chronicles, studies in the pattern of underwear, jacket, shirts blouse have gradually increased and the development of patterns using elastic materials are increasing as well. Women were dominant in the studies as subjects and so were young people of both sexes. Unlike the studies in earlier times that focused on the average figure, studies on developing patterns for various figure types have been made since the 5-6 Chronicles. However, there were limited studies on the figures of infants, male youth, seniors, and obese males. As for the research methods, there were common processes for validity testing of patterns through the measurement of the human figure, survey of customers and companies, designing pilot patterns, and wearing trials. The studies showed characteristic the differences in research methods according to the period.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.571-578
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• 2009

This study was to apply the measurement variations of each region of the body to the basic bodice pattern grading and to provide the clothing pattern fit for the human body. Grading variation used in the apparel industry was researched and new grading variation was proposed by analyzing the statistical data of body measurements. The statistical variation in body measurements was applied to set the optimum grading region and variation. Five sizes were used by split grading method and drawn with Bust Circumference and waist length based on the middle size. Differences between the grading pattern and the drawing pattern were analyzed by overlapping them and measuring each region. The measurement variations of drawing patterns between the sizes were very different from those of statistical data. On the other hand, the measurement variations of grading patterns between the sizes and those of statistical data were similar. In summary, the grading pattern by applying the measurement variations to the region of the body was superior to the drawing pattern drawn by the basic measurements for clothing fitness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권11호
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• pp.1627-1637
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• 2002

The objective of this study is to analyze the images of basic bodice apparel displayed on the PC monitor connected to digital camera, and to suggest a more efficient alternative method that enables the expert judge to evaluate the subject both traditional method and displayed images on the computer. Appearance evaluation has traditionally been assessed using subjective method dependent upon expertjudges' senses with the naked eye after direct observation of a living model. This research faces the new challenge focusing on the sensory evaluation of appearance for basic apparel patterns, which can overcome the space and time limitations of the traditional feet methods. A total fifteen basic bodice garment (3 types of $pattern\;{\times}\;5$ subject) were constructed with same fabrics. The appearance evaluation items consist of lg questions of upper torso. The image takes font, back and side view of the dressed subject with three different situations. Data was analyzed using percentiles, standard deviation T-test and ANOVA. Taken together, the present result of appearance evaluation through digital camera image shows that there is a significant difference ($p{\leq}.001$) in the response to the placement of the neckline, the waist & shoulder dart, the general ease of the bust & waist area, the side seam, the perpendicular of the waist hem and general acceptability between the above three different situations; the image in the condition of greenish yellow background with front light showed the highest score through all questions. These results depend on the kind of background colors with the light.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권6호
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• pp.986-1003
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• 2021

This study was conducted to develop a basic pants pattern reflecting the average body shape of Chinese women in their 20s by using a virtual fitting method. A formula for the research pattern was derived by applying the measured value based on the drafting method of existing patterns. The final pattern was presented through two actual fitting processes. The suitability of the final pattern was then verified through a functional evaluation and an appearance evaluation based on an actual fitting and a virtual fitting. As a result of the evaluations, the final pattern reflected the body shape of Chinese women in their 20s and was evaluated as a higher quality pattern compared to existing patterns. The final pattern was based on the omphalion waist circumference. Ease amounts were set to be the omphalion waist circumference + 1.0 cm, hip circumference + 2.0 cm, and the pants length was set to 94 cm.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.345-356
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• 1994

The Shirts Blouse was produced through the process of shirts Blouse pattern making by utilizing CAD System developed by PAD Sys-tem Techologies Co. Ltd that is suitable to educational use or industrial use. The purpose of this study was to provide the basic data for the development of efficient and various design patterns by applying this pro-cess to the actual business of apparel making. The results were as follows: 1. The applicable range of CAD system 1) The repeated work can be avoided by thansforming and developing the basic pattern stored and the storage and remodification were easy. 2) The deletion duplication movement and copy of all points and lines in the pattern can be made freely and measurement of all lengths and angles the attachment of two patterns were possible. 3) The grading Library of the basic pattern was applied as it was and the time was curtailed by adding only several grading points with the change of design. 2. The problem in the use of the CAD System 1) Through the input of basic pattern by the digitizer the minute size difference was generated as each point on the curve came to be designated. 3) In grading the line of neck girth there was inconveniences to go to the plan view in order find out deviation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.15-29
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• 2014

Setting the ease amount takes the important part to the fit that consumers satisfies. Therefore, it is required to create a pattern for off-the-rack jackets that considers the proper amount of ease. However, few studies have been done previously regarding the ease amount of jacket pattern for the women in their 20s whose demand for jacket is high and who are sensitive to the fit. Therefore, this study selected top five brands in terms of sales and preference among the national female apparel brands. It obtained a tailored jacket pattern for basic size (55 size) and made the jacket. Then, an expert panel group put the pattern on Hani body, a torso dummy for education made by the anthropometric data of Size Korea for females in their 20s and conducted an evaluation on the ease amount and analyzed the results. As a result, the ease amount of the Pattern A was evaluated as proper and that of the Pattern B was found to be lease proper. From the fact, we can see that each of the top 5 off-the-rack brands has different ease amount, though they are of the same basic size (55 size).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.208-218
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to identify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high duality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.