• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to research the characteristics of the pattern design and the weave construction of 67 fashion fabrics in women's Hanbok. All the fabrics were made by 100% silk. Arrangement, size, and the type of patterns were investigated for research of the pattern characteristics. Pattern weave and background weave were analyzed, then the weight and the thickness were measured for studying the fabric construction. The results were as follows. First, irregular arrangement was more commonly used than regular arrangement, and then the complex arrangement and the combination arrangement were appeared considerably because of the existence of the various patterns in a fabric. Third, the types of pattern weave construction were much more than those of background weave construction. This is caused by the expression of dimensional effect for patterns. This survey can be practically used for development of pattern design for Hanbok industry and furthermore it will contribute to revitalizing of Hanbok market to overcome design limit in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.492-507
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• 2020

This study aims to develop fashion designs that combine atlas fabric with the characteristics of Uygur costume to modernize the costume of the Xinjiang Uygur. Research contents and methods are as follows. First, based on previous studies, research analysis was conducted on the cultural background, clothing characteristics, and material of Uygur clothing. Second, based on such research contents, designs combining the characteristics of Uygur costume and atlas fabric were presented. Third, to analyze the utilization of atlas fabric and examine fabric characteristics, material was gathered from collections on domestic and foreign web sites. Through field explorations of local museums in the Xinjiang area, minority group culture was observed in more detail. Based on collection of traditional clothing and analysis of its characteristics, fashion designs that apply contemporary trends were developed. General silhouettes without any restrictions to the waist and decorations made using embroidery were often used. Atlas silk, developed in China using Ikat weaving methods, is an important traditional clothing fabric of the minority group Xinjiang. Based on such data collection analysis, the produced works highlighted traditional ethnic characteristics by extracting classical patterns of atlas fabric, modifying or partially expanding them, combining them with hand knitting, and adding contemporary sensations, thus providing confirmations of the possibility of popularizing classic patterns in more practical manners.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.33-42
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to research the development of jacquard fabrics by the Bi-Dan patterns of Dan-Chung as one of the traditional korean symbols. For performing this design study, it designed a surface design of the geometric images in Bi-Dan patterns using by EAT Jacquard Textile CAD system and simulated to fabrics for the clothing & bags. To consider the modern image of Bi-Dan patterns in the Dan-Chung motives, the theoretical background was made on the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Dan-Chung patterns. To merchandise the fashion items and see the visual image, these jacquard fabric simulations was processed by two-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD. The applied weave structure was based on a single layer of 5 or 10 points-satin and a double layer of 8 points-satin. Among the fabric simulations of Bi-Dan patterns, the six simulated fabrics were woven into the real jacquard fabrics under the electronic Stabuli jacquard loom in $120{\sim}130$ picks per inch and 171 ends per inch. These developed jacquard fabrics of Bi-Dan patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they could make use of the unique korean cultural products by the further commercialization.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.101-110
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• 2009

Danchung(丹靑) is the traditional Korean patterns that are decorated with various colorful patterned paintings upon each sections of wooden architecture. Although Danchung consists of variety patterns with the meaningful signs and symbols, as an accomplishment of Korean traditional images, there is a few fashion merchandise by Danchung patterns. Therefore, the purpose of this study is about to design Jacquard fabrics, and to develop bags of Jacquard fabric by Danchung patterns, as a differentiated cultural Fashion Merchandise. The theoretical background was researched for the geometric image of Danchung patterns on the basis of the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Danchung. The geometric image of Danchung patterns, which had the shape of circle, triangle, square and hexagon, was designed to the surface design by Jacquard CAD system(i.e., EAT Designscope by Germany) and woven into Jacquard fabrics by Stabuli electronic Jacquard system. Danchung patterns for fabric design in this study was mainly focused on 'ChipJaGum', 'SamJiChangGum', 'ShouSulGum', Moro patterns of lotus flower(蓮花), Rok-Wha(綠花) and so on. To development bags of jacquard fabric, those woven jacquard fabrics were manufactured to bags by applying the selected of twelve bag-designs among the current bag styles. These manufactured bags of jacquard fabrics in geometric Danchung patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they can be used for the unique korean cultural products to further commercialization.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.160-173
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• 2011

Stripe has been one of the all-time favorite fabric patterns so far and the usages have been widely applied of nearly everything ranging from everyday dress to interior fabrics. As the times change, patterns of this simple geometrical design have gradually become varied. Many effects of stripe patterns have allowed the patterns to be used in fabrics for fashion design and the patterns are considered fit for expressing individual characteristics. By studying theoretical background on categories of stripe patterns and the characteristics as a design and by researching the trends and properties exhibited in the modern fabric design, this paper will seek the potential of stripe patterns for design of a modern sense and the directions to express the patterns as a value-added design. This research was conducted through literature, books published at home and abroad, research papers and photographs on stripe patterns. Domestic magazines, web research, and photographs published since 2000 were studied for an analysis of the trends and characteristics of stripe patterns displayed in the modern fabric design. As the results, this research will explain the tendencies of stripe patterns on the modern fabric designs divided into several ways: simple and restrained modernity, active and sporty property, mannishness putting practicality forward-emerging as the status of women rises, and femininity emphasizing elegant women. The characteristics of the Plastic are categorized simplicity, rhythmicality, and Mixing of patterns.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.19-29
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate Renaissance wall-covering fabrics through Flemish paintings, that provides the details of the origin and development of background of modern wallcovering. The methods of the study are as follows. First, the background of textile development of Flanders in the 14^th to 16^th centuries were examined through a prior study. Second, the shape and use of wallcoverings in paintings painted during that time were analyzed and the process of changing to modern forms was studied. The residential environment with many stone buildings in relatively humid and cold weather created a need for decorative fabrics. Back then, the wool and flax fabric were not allowed to be worn on the body, so the materials were used for the development of interior fabrics. The characteristics of wall covering in Flemish paint can be summarized with movable, allegory, and decoration. Movable stems from the arrival of the emerging aristocrats of Flanders, who had enormous commercial trade and carried decorative fabrics; the mobility has become an allegory in reality as the royal and aristocratic use of wall-decorated fabrics is the symbol of authority. In addition, unlike Italy, where silk was procured from the East, fabrics manufactured using flax and wool were not suitable for clothing in terms of religion and practicality and were used to decorate walls.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.31
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• pp.1-20
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• 2024

The "Buseoksa Temple Gwaebul" (1684, K969) in the possession of the National Museum of Korea is a large Buddhist hanging scroll produced for outdoor rituals (gwaebul) at the eponymous temple. The painting demonstrates the most complex composition among the existing Buddhist hanging scrolls as it depicts the Shakyamuni Buddha in the lower middle, surrounded by the Vairocana Buddha, Medicine Buddha, and Amitabha Buddha. This study examines the characteristics of the background fabric and the production methods of the scroll from Buseoksa Temple and explores the characteristics of the coloring techniques by integrating the results of a non-destructive analysis to determine the materials used for coloring. The gwaebul comprises a total of 13 panels, with 11 panels arranged side by side and one panel each added to the top and bottom. The background fabric of the painting consist of semi-transparent silk tabby for the nine panels in the center, and silk tabby for the four panels surrounding the four sides. The coloring materials used to paint the scroll were analyzed using X-ray fluorescence, and were confirmed to be inorganic pigments of red, yellow, green, blue, and white. For some parts painted in yellow and blue, the colors were expressed by first applying light white pigment before adding organic pigments. In addition, ink was used for the black lines and gold leaf was used for the patterns of the Buddhist robes. X-ray irradiation enabled the determination of the location and technique of coloring according to each pigment color by highlighting the difference in brightness depending on the main component and the thickness of each pigment.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.183-190
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• 2016

Background: This study determined the effects of mulching, an environment friendly organic cultivation method, on antioxidant compound contents and growth in Codonopsis lanceolata, commonly known as Deodeok. Methods and Results: C. lanceolata was treated by mulching with several different methods (a non-woven fabric, biodegradable film, or rice husks) and also treated with hand weeding. A non-treatment plot was used as a control. The growth and levels of weed control in C. lanceolata were better in plants cultivated under mulching treatments (non-woven fabric, biodegradable film, and rice husks) than in those under non-mulching treatments (hand weeding and non-treatment). The contents of antioxidant compounds, such as total flavonoids, phenolics, and anthocyanins, were highest under the biodegradable film treatment, followed by the non-woven fabric treatment, rice husks treatment hand weeding, and non-treatment. There were identifiable differences in DPPH and ABTS activity in comparison to antioxidant compound content by solvent fractions. Mulching treatments resulted in higher DPPH scavenging activity in water and ethyl ether fractions and ABTS scavenging activity in n-butanol fractions than in other fractions, as opposed to hand weeding and non-treatment groups, although total activity of DPPH and ABTS did not increase with mulching treatments. Conclusions: Mulching C. lanceolata with biodegradable film and non-woven fabric is an effective method for improving plant growth and inhibiting the occurrence of weeds as well as for increasing antioxidant compound content and altering antioxidant activity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.27-44
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to attempt to diversify artistic expression through combinations of the twelve zodiac animals and origami techniques and to propose new directions for fashion design by applying these to fashion accessory bag designs. For the research method, this study researched the representative forms and characteristics of twelve zodiac animals based on the cultural background. Also, diverse cases of origami techniques were sought to apply them to the development of bags. The results are as follows. First, expressed forms of the Chinese zodiac were newly expanded by realizing the form of Chinese zodiac animals through various origami techniques. Origami work displays abstract visual effects rather than intuitive feelings or expressions of flat designs. With this, detailed realizations could be made through the characteristics and cultural implications of animals. Second, the work created in this study utilized zero-waste patterns that use origami techniques on one whole piece. During pattern production, folded parts were marked without waste and the outer fabric and lining were produced. Patterns were all symmetrical lines so most forms were expressed with squares and equilateral triangles. Third, through actual work produced using fabric instead of paper, effects that are brought about through folding are determined in diverse ways according to fabric textures or material types and thicknesses. When paper is folded, shapes are created as folded, but fabric requires the use of supportive material to create the effects of origami. Polyester and blended fabric were easy to use with high levels of function and practicality. Through such diverse production attempts, fixing methods, hand sewing, sewing machines, double-sided tape, and leather adhesive were used.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.841-851
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• 2008

The purpose of the study was to examine the effect of motif categories and motif colors on evaluating sensory image of fashion materials with the gestalt theory as the background. The research was conducted on a quasi experimental basis, with subjects numbering 187 male and 207 female college students. Data were collected in the period from march 19th to march 31st, 2007. A set of fabric stimuli and semantic differential scales were developed. The stimuli were thirteen fabric species(each measuring 12 by 13cm). Variables included; (a) motif colour(white, grey, pink and blue) (b) motif categories(plain, paisley, flower, stripes and zebra effect). The semantic differential scale to measure sensory image of fabric stimuli included 23 sets of bi-polar adjectives. The data were analysed by factor analysis and ANOVA and the major finding were as follows. 1) Four sensory dimensions emerged of importance: salience, attractiveness, comfort and softness. 2) The motif category effected on the four sensory image dimensions while the motif colour effected on salience, comfort and softness sensory dimensions. 3) An interaction effect was founded between motif category and motif colour. 4) Motif category showed significant effects on the preference and liking of the fashion, however the motif colour did not show any significant effects on the preference and liking. As a whole the results supported the gestalt theory and the results can be used for the marketing strategy for developing fashion fabrics.