• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.153-159
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• 2014

This study evaluates the changes of the subjective hand, preference, comfort and mechanical properties of tricot based artificial suede made from sea-island type micro fibers according to raising condition. The subjective hand and the preference of raised suede for jacket were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts according to raising cycles. Comfort properties were evaluated by air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal transmission. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand of artificial suede was categorized into three hand factors: smoothness, warmness and thickness. Smoothness, warmness and thickness perception increased with raising cycles which affected hand preference and luxuriousness perception. The thickness and wale density of suede increased with the number of raising. Suede became more compact and less pliable and less stretchable due to increased fabric thickness; in addition, the surface of suede became smoother and compressive since the surface evenness of suede improved with smaller fiber fineness and an increased amount of naps covered the base fabric. Furthermore, water vapor transmission decreased and thermal insulation increased. The best raising conditions for artificial suede was four cycles in which artificial suede was preferred without changes in physical properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.280-289
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• 2016

Silica microgel was prepared by sol-gel process and then functional groups, epoxy group and ethoxy group, were introduced on the particle by coupling treatment with 3-glysidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane. The functional silica microgel(functional SiGel) formation was identified using FT-IR spectrometry. Phase stability for DMF solution of functional SiGel, PU resin and pigment was evaluated by Turbiscan Lab. And physical properties of artificial suede including hand values, morphology and dyeing fastness were investigated. The mean particle size and the specific surface area of the functional SiGel were $0.77{\mu}m$ and $380m^2/g$. Mixture containing the functional SiGel, PU resin and pigment was more stable than the functional SiGel-free mixed solution. Artificial suede prepared by the functional SiGel had appearance and feeling close to natural suede. The migration fastness, the solvent wicking fastness and rubbing fastness of the artificial suede were enhanced to 4~5 grades, 4~5 grades and 3~4 grades, respectively.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.234-240
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• 2001

In order to improve the washing fastness of dyed polyester artificial suede fabric, it was dyed by using auto and anthraguinone type disperse dyes and treated with 3 different reduction clearing methods. The reduction clearing methods used in this study were normal alkaline reduction clearing, $N_2$ gas replacement method, and ultrasonic treatment during normal reduction clearing. The results were as followings ; The washing fastness property of dyed polyester artificial suede fabric was slightly improved by reduction clearing with $N_2$ gas replacement or with ultrasonic treatment comparing with normal alkaline reduction clearing. It was found that the use of $N_2$ gas replacement or ultrasonic treatment during reduction clearing eave effective removal of unfixed dyes on the fiber surface. We also obtained that the azo type disperse dye on polyester artificial fabric suede fabric showed higher wash fastness than anthraquinone type disperse dye.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.61-67
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• 2000

This study was carried out to develope antimicrobial artificial suede by coating with water soluble polyurethane resin and the copolymer of N,N'-dialkyl-N,N'-dialkyl ammonium chloride (DADAAC) and acrylamide as a antimicrobial additve. The copolymer of DADAAC and acrylamide was synthesized by free radical initiation and intra-intermolecular propagation, and the prepared copolymers had sufficient compatibility with water soluble polyurethane resin. The MIC values of the prepared copolymers and antimicrobial characteristics of the artificial suede coated by polyurethane were evaluated. With the increase in the proportion of DADAAC, which is antimicrobially active part in the DADAAC/acrylamide copolymers, the MIC value becomes lower. The MIC value of DADAAC-AA (1 : 1) copolymer is below 30 ppm against S. aureus, and below 90 ppm against K pneumoniae. The artificial suede coated by water soluble polyurethane resin with 1.0% owl concentration of DADAAC/acrylamide copolymer has good antimicrobial fastness as to show colony reduction of above 90% and 80% against S. aureus and K. pneumoniae respectively in the shake flask test after 10 times of washing, and above 95% and 85% after 10 times of dry-cleaning. The elastic recovery of coated suede fabric is not affected up to 1.0% owf concentration of DADAAC-AA copolymer in the polyurethane coating.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.128-137
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• 2000

A range of suede-like samples were collected including woven fabric type, nonwoven fabric type, and natural suede(sheep). The surface textures of these suede-like fabrics are rather diverse and different from the plain filament type fabrics since there are a lot of fine surface free fiber ends. Physical and mechanical measurements were carried using the KES equipments. Based on the Kawabata-Niwa translational equation, primary hand values and THV were calculated. Uniaxial tensile tests were performed. Using glossmeter, the reflectance pattern was analyzed at different incidence and receiving angles. In order to capture the surface images of the specimens, a CCD camera and frame grabber connected to a PC were employed. The reflectance uniformity of the images was measured with line-profile analysis and standard deviation values of the profile of the images were calculated. After the multiscale wavelet transfermation, correlation among the transformed image was analyzed at each scale. The reflectance uniformity of the natural suede was better than that of nonwoven type suede, while that of woven type suede was the last among the selected three samples(natural suede, nonwoven type, woven type). The correlation analysis among images has shown the possibility of using the wavelet transformation of the images as one of the measures to detect similarities among the textured specimens.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.115-121
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• 2017

Demands for nylon suede as an artificial leather are increasing due to its functionality and aesthetics. To achieve high value added nylon suede based on green technology, this study was carried out in order to obtain useful data for the nylon suede fabrics with eco-friendly dyeing process by a pad-steam method instead of a dip dyeing process using sulphur black dye to reduce the industrial waste of water. The dyeability of the nylon suede was investigated according to reducing temperatures, dye concentrations, and reducing agent's concentrations. Throughout the results of the CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ and Munsell values, the optimized dyeing conditions of the nylon suede using sulphur black dye are $70^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature, 30% o.w.f. of dye concentration, and $9g/{\ell}$ of reduction agent concentration, respectively. Furthermore washing colorfastness, light colorfastness and perspiration colorfastness were achieved in the range of 4-5 grades.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.309-315
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• 2013

This study examines the difference of surface properties according to napping characteristic of artificial suedes, measuring surface structure observation, the contact/non-contact method roughness, warm-cool feeling of touch, and subjective hand evaluation. Surface and cross-section observations showed a discernible difference in fineness, curl, length, mount of napping, and covering power of base fabric. The surface properties of artificial suede evaluated by KES-FB4 showed that the shorter napping length the more smooth surface and the roughness increased reciprocally with friction resistance and surface contour when the nap length reaches a high level. The surface roughness measuring system applied a laser displacement sensor by a non-contact method to assess napping characteristic and the base fabric and napping height. Surface roughness decreased when napping was uniformly covered with base fabric; however, the surface roughness increased specifically with the uneven covering power of the base fabric. For qmax of the suedes, those that had short and smaller amounts of napping increased; however, the napping of length and amount at some stage generated a low qmax value. The warm sensation in all suedes were strongly perceived, but the cool sensation of the perception was lower in the subjective evaluation. Smoothness and softness were perceived when the suede has a long and large amount napping; however, smoothness and hardness were perceived when the suede was short and with the uneven covering power.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.79-89
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• 2017

Sensory attributes and preferences that contribute to consumer satisfaction with artificial leather were measured by subjective evaluation, and subjective hand and preferences were analyzed in relation to its use. Using tactile and visual senses, 50 experts in fashion and textile industry evaluated leathers classified into two categories, suede and polyurethane coated, according to different manufacturing methods. They answered questions on subjective hand and preferences of different artificial leathers of various fashion items (jackets, purses, bags, shoes, boots, furniture, etc.), using specific adjectives to describe the hand properties. As a result, it was found that the subjective hand properties of artificial leathers were related to 'Thickness', 'Fullness/softness', 'Surface contour', 'Stickiness', and 'Elasticity'. The leather type from different manufacturing methods influenced their perceived hand and preferences relating to use. By use, different hands were preferred. The preferences for jackets and furniture of suede type leathers were related to their surface properties, whereas the preferences for items of the other type of leathers were associated with their resilience. On the other hand, in the case of polyurethane coated leathers, the preferences for jackets were significantly affected by their thickness, while those for the other items were influenced by their resilience and surface properties.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.03a
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• pp.245-246
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• 2009

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.28-36
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• 2006

The polyurethane prepolymers, which were previously synthesized from 2,4-toluene disocyanate(2,4-TDI) and polypropylene glycol(PPG), were chain extended by ethylene diamine or hydroxyl terminated polydimethylsiloxane(HTPMS) having hydroxy group at both ends of the chain, giving polyurethaneurea(PU) and polyurethane containing HTPMS segment(SiPU), respectively. In thermal gravimetric analysis, PU was almost completely degraded at $500^{circ}$ but SiPU showed about 11% residue at the same temperature. Suspension of SiPU and pigment showed more good compatibility than that of PU and pigment. The crocking fastness, migration fastness and solvent wicking were enhanced to 4.5 grades, 4 grades and 4 grades, respectively.