• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.66-78
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the location of fashion in contemporary society and to suggest a direction for fashion criticism in aesthetic$\hat{u}$cultural perspective. For this, literature researches about some of art criticism and fashion criticism theories and cultural studies related to fashion are performed. In this study, fashion criticism is defined as a linguistic analysis and interpretation about a variety of discursive networks around fashion as well as an aesthetic analysis of it. Considering this definition, an analytical framework for the contemporary fashion criticism combines Feldman's and Carney's models with Crane & Bovone's and Entwistle's sociological studies for aesthetic and cultural perspectives. At first, its aesthetic perspective shows 'Description'-'Descriptive formative features', 'Analysis'-'Locate the style' and 'Aesthetic value', 'Interpretation'- 'Interpretation of the fashion object' and 'Socio-cultural interpretation', 'Judgment'-'Critical judgment'. Then, its cultural perspective especially emphasizes 'Socio-cultural interpretation' of the 6 steps above. Socio-cultural interpretation gets tangled with the network of various cultural agents within the fashion system, producers/designers, retailers/suppliers, media/editors, consumers/spectators, and so on. In the course of the fashion system 5 analytical methods about the fashion object can be suggested and they are as follows: Analyses of texts, discourses and symbols of a fashion object, Analyses of fashion systems which produces symbolic values, Analyses of the communication of symbolic values and the disseminating processes through the media, Analyses of the attribution of symbolic values to a fashion object by consumers, and Cross-national studies of symbolic values expressed in a fashion object.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.111-117
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• 2014

This study investigated the perception of upcycling for sensitive university students in regards to fashion trends. It was conducted through questionnaires delivered to male and female college students who majored in clothing related subjects from June 2012 to June 2013 in Gwangju. The contents for this research are general details, seriousness of environmental resources, awareness of upcycle, and purchasing intention for upcycling products. Most of the respondents said that recycling of resources is absolutely necessary due to the impact of environmental pollution and the consumption of resources. On the contrary, the experience of the respondents which purchased recycling products was low. The awareness of also was low, upcycling, internal upcycling brands and internal consumption groups, however, the decisions for subsequent purchases were positive. The reasons for the unsatisfactory of upcycling of products were due to quality and price. The reaction for many upcycle goods had the best question response rate in daily supplies part; subsequently, this study suggested 3 items, apparel products, fashion accessories, and daily supplies. In addition, a group which contains people who expend more for clothing had a lower awareness of upcycle and purchasing intention than other groups that contained some people who expend less. The results of the study can be used in data that recognize the necessary of upcycle education for university students, and develop educational programs. It can also encourage the purchase of upcycle products that reduce the consumption of resources.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.950-962
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop the slim-fit dress shirt pattern. Among the published educational patterns, there were four patterns based on similar design and silhouette with slim-fit dress shirts. Then, the drafting method of those patternsBB were compared and analyzed. The subjects for wearing evaluation were three 20 to 39 aged average-sized men. After the wearing evaluation(5 Likert point scale), N pattern had been chosen as the final comparison pattern because it received the highest points. The slim-fit shirt pattern was developed based on the result of wearing evaluation. The foundation design were as following: shirt length (Stature/2-12), back length (Stature/4), armhole depth (Chest/4+1), width (Chest/4+3), Interscye; Back (Chest/6+5), Interscye; Front (Chest/6+4), width of the nape of neck (Neck/6+1=◎), height of the nape of neck (◎/3), of the front neck (◎-0.5), depth of the front neck(◎+1.5). After the wearing evaluation about researched pattern and N pattern, researched patternsBB scale points were bigger than N pattern and there were slight differences. The scale points for N patternsBB movement evaluation showed highest points on all contents. Therefore, the researched pattern is suitable for the original form of slim-fit dress shirt. The new dress shirt pattern reflected the slim-fit trend in the research expected to help educational environment and industrial site.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.886-898
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• 2013

This study explores the types, shapes and changes of the court dance garments of mudong[child court dancer] and yeoryeong[female court dancer] for court dances such as Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang, and Choehwamu, and the arrangement of colors in their garments. The conclusion of the study is as follows: First, the type of garments of mudong varied according to the type of dance, role of mudong and passage of time. In all four jeongjae's, hongpo[red robe] and baekjilheukseonjungdaneui[white under garment trimmed in black] were commonly found. Second, the dress of yeoryeong in the Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu was that of other yeoryeong, which was basically comprised of hwagwan[flower headdress], hwangchosam[yellow robe], hongchosang[red skirt] and sudae[embroidered belt]. Third, the color schemes of the court dance garments used in Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu revealed that the color arrangement of sangsaeng [mutual generation] of the Ohaeng[Five Elements] scheme were favored in the garments of mudong and yeoryeong. The dress of mudong is characterized by sangsaeng between top and bottom, and between total and part, while the color scheme of the outer and inner was sanggeuk[mutual overcoming]. As for yeoryeong, the color arrangement was of sangsaeng in top and bottom, outer and inner, and total and part, but in the five-colored hansam[sleeve extension], both sangsaeng and sanggeuk were found.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.296-301
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• 2017

This study researched the status and prospect of a natural dye program in Gyeongsang region that focused on private centers with sufficient infrastructure and abundant human resources were available for natural dyes. The entire site for metropolitan cities that have difficulty in securing the land are limited (as well as smaller) because they are closer to the city; in addition, they do not own the drying house and the agricultural land for natural dyes. It is understood that the one-time program of all centers researched help to promote and maintain the centers rather than generating profit; in addition, it is shown that Jun - Aug (summer) is preferred over Dec - Feb (winter). This program uses natural indigo; consequently, natural dye program for hobby and education is operated when it is required because the number of participants are low in most cases, Persimmon Juice is used for the dyeing raw materials. Programs in operation are often outsourced with other institutes registered under private certification system; therefore, many cases of starting business are found in the institutes operating programs directly after obtaining the certification. Their plans do not allow for investment in facility such as enlargement of experience center and prospect of program; in addition, business value is generally bright for business strategies that include an exhibition shop for natural dye products and program development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.620-625
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• 2017

In this study, the dyeing conditions(temperature, time, concentration) are changed from various conditions on wool fabrics by using corydalis tuber extract in order to develop new natural dyes. The purpose of this study is to improve the dyeability, color fastness, and functionality and to derive optimal dyeing conditions by comparing and analyzing the changes of K/S values and surface color by dyeing pH changes, mordant method, and mordant type. As a result of the experiment, the optimum dyeing condition of the wool fabrics is shown dyeing temperature:$80^{\circ}C$, dyeing time:90min, dyeing concentration:100%. The dyeability by pH variants of corydalis tuber extract indicates that K/S values is higher alkaline than acidic. The mordant method of corydalis tuber extract showed pre-mordant has high K/S values. In terms of color fastness, marked improvement has not been shown despite of mordant treatment on wool fabrics. In particular, color change of color fastness to washing, color fastness to light indicates the low fastness. In addition, the functionality such as antibacterial activities and deodorization can be given at dyeing with corydalis tuber extract thus it is expected to be applied to underwear or apparel products for the elderly and infirm and children with weak skin that required high functionality.

• Journal of Korean Society of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.303-309
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• 2008

The reduction of risk within the workplace has long been focus of attention both through industry initiatives and legislation. Exposure matrices according to industries and processes treated DMF (N,N-Dimethylformamide) were constructed based on KOSHA (Korean Occupational Safety and Health Agency)'s 2005 exposure database which were gathered from Korean agencies of workplace hazards evaluation for business place. These exposure matrices were assessed by danger value (DV) that was calculated from combination of hazard rating, duration of use rating, and risk probability rating of exposure to chemical hazardous agents in accordance with Hallmark Risk Assessment Tool. The results of risk assessment is divided four kinds of control bands which were related with control measures. The applicability of risk assessment using exposure matrices was performed by field study and survey for high matrices group. This study found that more attentions should be paid to two industries, manufacture of sewn wearing apparel and manufacture of textiles, among 19 industries, and to 3 processes, coating, processing & mixing, and lab, among 80 processes because those were regarded as having the highest risk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.722-734
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• 2008

This study focuses on the trend of modern society that places importance on health and happiness. By using gilsang (signs that brings good fortunes) patterns that wishes for fortune and health, the objective of this study is to design a distinct but universal fashion good that is unique to Korea and is used not only as a piece of artwork, but as part of development of new and assorted cultural products that is competitive in the international society. This study was conducted first by studying related documents for the theoretical background. In addition, in order to satisfy consumer demands, a jacquard that can procure international competitiveness was designed and fashion goods fitting to this was planned. Through this, the various possibilities of using the jacquard designs were suggested. The development process of fashion goods using jacquard was divided into 10 stages: theme setting, gilsang pattern setting, sketching, textile plan, design organization, input, simulation process, perforation and sewing, selection of design for the fashion good and goods production. Fashion materials are a very important element in creating variations and uniqueness in the fashion industry. Development of new materials has made the aesthetic and ornamental elements, together with the practical and functional aspects of textiles possible. A major issue today is rising out of the past mass production method of OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing), and developing various artistic patterns that can be used in mass-produced products and assorted production in small quantities in order to develop specialized fashion goods.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.61-71
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• 2020

This study looks at 'Corporate Social Responsibility' which is required for the fashion industry and brands in modern times. The American fashion brand known for its corporate social responsibility activities, 'Patagonia' is the case study for this research. The purpose of this study is to make suggestions to eco-friendly, outdoor and casual apparel fashion brands that want to introduce corporate social responsibility programs by considering the case of Patagonia's "Worn Wear" campaign. The method of this study was to review corporate social responsibility, previous studies on Patagonia, and literature, such as domestic and foreign media, Patagonia's official homepage, specialty publications, and media. The study concerning corporate social responsibility is focused on Patagonia's "Worn Wear". Worn Wear is Patagonia's system that repurchases and repairs products from Patagonia's own consumers. The study found that the well known corporate social responsibility led to increased sales. Patagonia's social responsibility activities are thought to be part of the brand identity that goes beyond marketing. In the Worn Ware case, repurchasing products from consumers and reselling them or reprocessing them resulted in increased sales, increased consumer engagement, and higher brand attention. The suggestion for a fashion company or brand in a category similar to Patagonia that is looking to engage in corporate social responsibilbty is to adopt and continue a campaign that 'consists of a successful marketing image, connecting memories and new experiences, separated shopping channels while diversifying the creation of distribution and contact channels'.